Day 35 (day 1 flowering): Wow these ladies kick into flowering early. thankfully they have allowed me time to get them spread out. Today was a last attempt at getting them into their own space fornwach growing tip. even the lowers have been encouraged to join the party for the stretch period. Bring it on , we are ready !. lol The Mimosa lemon has really got busy the last week and her transition for flowering should be very positive with her l.s.t set up. She has so many growth tips that are joining the vertical climb. she is still very workable but is hardening up more now. I definitely notice the lack of using silicon fornthese so will start tonadd it early on I think. Seeing how well she filled the pot is a bonus too. she will be a good producer I think . she is at The edges of the 30L pot now and will be held there until late in flowering. Once she hits 21 days , I will defoliate her along with the Glueberry. The Glueberry is a thicket of new growth and hopeful main buds. The stems are so thick that she is nearly unworkable. with the breakages to her 4th node , I am hoping to keep her stress below snapping point till the finish. She has some serious thick mains fighting for the top slot and i expect a beasty of a flowering girl. Having g just hit the flowering , I hope to use the stretch to get her set up better. seeing her clumped up makes me nervous. Her structure is similar to a manifold but less planned that way. lwrs see what she does. be well.

The buds fattened up to about the size of my fist. Sticky resin coated everything and the tent smelled fantastic.

Filling out need a second screen. Dont think will have too much more stretch. The white choco haze is still behind no way mear as much foliage, however considering her start to life she is doing much better. Gorilla looking nice and the 2 choc mints of the left of the photos are looking terrific.

Put in dark for 4 days before wet trim and getting hung up to dry. Little beauty, smells amazing can't wait to give it a try. Gnome Automatics for the win!!!

The preflower stretch has been incomparable to any Soil grow I've seen! These sativas already caught up and don't show any signs of slowing down.

9/19 - I did the thing y'all!! Both plants chopped at day 77! These are the chonkiest things I've ever had the pleasure of growing/handling. Time will tell how much they shrink in the dry. The plants are all drying in my dark tent and trying to get close to 60F/60% RH, but really closer to 65F/60% RH, so I don't freeze in my home lol Put up one more vid before I chopped. I still need to take a pic of TA roots, which are pristine!!! If you see the DG root pic, you can tell how hard it got stunted by the vacation fiasco. Can't wait to make some rosin and trim these up! Slightly nervous of drying based on the density, so I cut more dry leaves than usual, but I don't want to risk mold. Next update will be the official harvest post!! ---- Thanks for following 🤙 Always appreciative of tips or suggestions

Outdoors........time passes slowly.... Tropical weather here, this week. Hot morning, evening storms , cooler nights, high humidity, wind. What else? No problems to report, fantastic grow, girls full of life. Lots of work to bend and rearrange plant's shape every day, sometimes twice a day. Defoliation. Plant is responding fantastically. My Royal Gorilla has one branch with an uncommon mutation. The stem from 4th internode is flat and not circular. From the 7th node, although now plant shows alternate growth, two perfectly identical branches are growing closer to each other, a twin bud mutation. Precisely for this mutation I decided to apply a little supercropping by bending the branch with a flat section at 90 °. I hope it wasn't late and the double buds will recover. #update August 6, twin buds perfectly recovered from supercropping so I can hope for a monster bud!

Due to prolonged bad weather, I decided to harvest them to avoid mold and other damage. There were three of us, and it took around 6 hours to trim about 80% of both plants. I ended up with a yield of 205 grams dry per plant. I'm more than satisfied with the plants. For my first grow, I couldn't be happier.

420 Fastbuds Week 6 Gorilla Zkittlez Auto What up grow fam. These two girls are growing absolutely amazing. Very easy to grow up to this point. I did add 1tsp of each of General Hydroponics 3 part flora series to give them an added boost if needed. The colors they're starting to show on the leafs and flowers are mesmerizing. Starting to give off a smell so one could only hope it gets better from here on out. All in all Happy Growing.

Day 64 (First Grow, Flowering Phase): Hey everyone! We’re on day 64, and the flowering phase is in full swing. The buds are forming beautifully, and the plants have grown 5-10 cm above the SCROG net, creating a lush canopy. The humidity is steady at around 50% or lower, which is ideal for this stage. To recap, we've been maintaining an even canopy with the SCROG net and our Timor shield mantis continues to keep pests at bay naturally. Our plants are thriving, thanks to the even light distribution and careful humidity control. We're considering installing a second fan in a few weeks to improve airflow and potentially adding a second SCROG net to support the plants as they continue to stretch during flowering. This should help stabilize the plants and ensure they get the support they need as the buds get heavier. Any tips or advice for the next steps? Let us know in the comments!

Hello everybody :) End of the seventh week of flow. Wild Thailand and Power Plant are a bit hungry so I gave them an extra dose of P/K. You can clearly see them eating the leaves from upper parts. SSH has calmed down and it's blooming nicely :) Everything looks very tasty - Critical Haze smells like tangie and Wild Thailnd as a sweet mango :) WoW!

31 Aug. I start the third week of my autoflower. The plant is growing well, but I noticed small yellow spots on the leaf tips, which seem like a mild calcium deficiency. This is probably due to the fact that so far I have been giving water with a slightly low pH, around 6, while the ideal range would be 6.5–7. At the beginning, to lower the ppm of the tap water (which was around 211 ppm), I mixed it with demineralized water. This brought the ppm down to about 109–140, making it harder for the plant to absorb the available calcium. Additionally, the soil I am using, Biobizz Light Mix, is lightly fertilized but does not contain enough calcium to correct this small initial deficiency. For this week, I will not add any fertilizers. I simply want to raise the pH to 6.5 and use water with higher ppm, so the plant can better absorb the nutrients already present in the soil. The lamp is positioned about 35–36 cm from the plant and so far there are no burn issues. Temperatures range between 25 and 30 °C depending on the day, while humidity in the room stays between 40–60%. The humidifier is always on because I keep the window open, but the dehumidifier is not being used, as it is not necessary at the moment. I also have a new oscillating fan arriving to replace the current fixed one, and I’m waiting for a regulable extractor (90–145 m³/h), which will allow me to control the air perfectly during winter if needed. This week my main goals are: Increase the water ppm without overdoing it Adjust the pH to 6.5 Keep observing the plant without adding any fertilizers Everything else seems fine and growth is regular. With these corrections, I expect the new leaves to grow healthy and free of spots. ==UPDATE 31/08== To control the calcium deficiency, I will administer an eggshell solution until I reach 300 ppm (I will boil some eggshells and administer the solution in tap water).

Oh Ya looking good smelling stinky Got some lowers for Fresh Frozen Nug Rince

____________________________ ~Seedsman Fuel D.O.G.~ ____________________________ 'Fuel D.OG Feminized was bred by crossing two highly celebrated and popular strains from the USA - Chemdawg (Sour Diesel x OG Kush) and Fuel OG (Diesel x Headband). Fuel D.OG is a 70% sativa, 30% Indica plant with very good potential yields both indoors and outdoors. Resin and THC production is also at a very high level. Fuel D.OG improves on Chemdawg, being a much more robust plant with a much more intense flavor while also developing a larger calyxes than Chemdawg. Its robust appearance is typified by a thicker central stem that is so strong that it does not need to be supported during the later flowering stage in spite of the high degree of sativa stretch it undergoes once flowering has been initiated. Large spear-shaped buds surround the main stem like a crown. Outdoor cultivation produces plants that can grow up to 350 cm. tall in optimum conditions. When cultivated indoors Fuel D.OG produces yields of 450 - 600 gr/m2 in a 65 - 70 day flowering period with generous quantities of resin already noticeable in the nascent buds during the third week. Its height can be controlled indoors by switching to the flowering light-schedule once plants are established and also by the use of the SCRoG technique whereby plants are trained horizontally. Outdoors, each plant can yield 700 - 800 gr. of large, sticky buds with harvests in the northern hemisphere ready at the beginning of October. Its large trichomes, concentration of terpenes and the sheer quality of resin make this a very serious proposition for extract/concentrate makers. Fuel D.OG has more intense OG Kush flavors than the Chemdawg parent, with increased diesel emphasis and with citric, lemon and grapefruit scents. THC content is very high with low proportions of CBD. The effect experienced by consumers is one of intense relaxation evolving into a long-lasting narcotic stone that makes Fuel D.OG more suitable for evenings unless there are no important tasks to be completed.' *description credit to Seedsman Seeds __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ -Characteristics- BREEDER/BRAND: Seedsman GENETICS: Chemdawg (Sour Diesel x OG Kush) and Fuel OG (|Diesel x Headband) VARIETY: Mostly Sativa FLOWERING TYPE: Photoperiod SEX: Feminised THC CONTENT: 20% Plus CBD CONTENT: <1% YIELD: Indoors: 450 - 600 gr/m2; Outdoors: 700 - 800 gr/plant PLANT HEIGHT: Up to 350 cm. outdoors GROWS: Greenhouse, Indoors, Outdoors FLOWERING TIME: 65 - 70 days HARVEST MONTH: Beginning October TASTE / FLAVOR: Citrus, Diesel, Grapefruit, Kush, Lemon EFFECT: Powerful, Relaxing, Sedative, Stoned __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ THE SETUP: ~Planted into Jiffy Peat Pellets that were hydrated with de-chlorinated water with SuperThrive added then ph'd to 6.0 @ 80℉ ~Grown 100% organic in 10g fabric pots with Mother Earth 70/30 Coco/Perlite medium amended with 2tbs/g of Down To Earth 4-4-4 / 2 cups/g of Earthworm Castings / 1tbs/g of Dr. Earth Flower Girl 3-9-4, 1tbs/g of Dr. Earth Bat Guano, 3/4 cup of Down To Earth Azomite and 1 tsp/g Down To Earth Fish Bone Meal. ~24hr light cycle during Germination / 19/5 light cycle for Vegetation and 12/12 for Flower ~Straight water ph'd @ 6.2-6.8 when needed and weekly Compost Tea's. __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Weekly Updates: 9/20- 💥BOOM!💥 Week Six of flower is here and my girl's in high gear, stacking her flowers and pumping out trichomes! Today I watered her with 1.5g de-chlorinated water with 5ml/g of Botanicare CalMag+ added, then ph'd to 6.2 @ 72℉. I turned her pot and plucked a couple of yellow shade leaves...the basic daily maintenance. 9/22- I didn't water her yesterday as she looked great and was 'praying' hard. Today she was given 1.5g of de-chlorinated water which was ph'd to 6.2 @ 72℉ which I gave her through her drip pan (bottom chuggin) and I also gave her pot a turn. I'm keeping an eye on what appears to be a few seeds developing. I'm hoping they're just fat calyx's that haven't matured yet however there's a strong possibility that, due to a temperature fluctuation that was excessive (20℉) may have caused her to stress and turn hermaphroditic... Fingers crossed! 🤔🤞 9/24- We're getting close to wrapping up Week Six of flower in a couple of days and she'll be around four more weeks from finishing, with the most exciting weeks yet to come! I didn't water yesterday and today I went ahead and Top Dressed her with 2 tbsp/g Dr. Earth Flower Girl 3-9-4, 1 tbsp/g Dr. Earth Gold Premium 4-4-4, 1/2 cup Down To Earth Bio-Fish, 1/3 cup Down To Earth High Phosphorus Bat Guano and 2 cups of Worm Castings. I watered in the Top Dress with 1.5g of de-chlorinated water which was ph'd to 6.2 @ 72℉ and let her enjoy her meal! 😜 9/26- After her heavy watering on the 24th I didn't water yesterday and when I checked her today at 'lights on' and she still had some weight to her pot and her leaves were praying hard so I held off on watering today and will hit her tomorrow with her usual 1.5g watering. ~Thanks for stopping in! Things should be getting a lot more interesting in the coming weeks...Stay lifted and be Blessed! 😎🙏~

Good morning ! Today is day 15 of flower 89 total from seeds popping ! Just did one last clean up as the stretch is over as I’ve been monitoring growth daily! Had some leaves and a couple nodes I had to remove as these ladies have been super vigorous all of veg and through the stretch ! Last week I did my every other watering of fish shit and silica as well as with the fish shit watering they got their recharge that I like to do every 3 weeks. They got their biweekly top dress of 50:50 split Gaia all purpose and bloom, in two weeks it will be all bloom and that will prob be the last feeding, we shall see! Adjusted temp and humidity now keeping vpa 1.2 -1.5 from here on out ! Thanks for reading and hopefully next week the time lapse will work again, been arguing with customer service at Wyze for two weeks now 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.

Plant is growing fine, gonna top it next week 03.04. I'm waiting for growth. But I cut away the cover crop a bit

This week I Supercrop all the plants and spred them out over both lights. One more week of Veg and they are ready to explode Check me out on Instagram @growmorestressless

Well the end has come to this beautiful strain What can I say it was fun to grow even considering the early problems I had with the yellowing it turned out amazing The smell and taste are out of this world. Tastes very citrucy and sweet. With a super heavy high. Looking forward to curing this one. Onto the next and big up the followers