hb3 has been trashed, is a hermie heat alarm: outside temp is 40˚C, in tent 32°C / 67 rh decrease of lamp dist to 30cm, decrease of lamp power from 200 w to 175 w results in: in tent 30°C / 64 rh ____________________________________________ light- and watering schedule: see photos now: 15 plants 3 x Auto Orange Bud > Dutch Passion (early80's) 1 x Haze Berry Automatic > Royal Queen Seeds (2018) 2 x Auto Euforia > Dutch Passion (late 90's) 2 x Auto Bubblegum > TH Seeds (late 80's) 2 x Original Auto BubbleGum > Fast Buds Company (late 80's) 1 x Strawberry Pie Auto > Fast Buds Company 1 x Gorilla Cookies Auto Seed Stockers (2015) 2 x Auto White Widow x Big Bud > Female Seeds setup + strategy: 18 seeds 3 x Auto Orange Bud > Dutch Passion (early80's) 3 x Haze Berry Automatic > Royal Queen Seeds (2018) 3 x Auto Euforia > Dutch Passion (late 90's) 2 x Auto Bubblegum > TH Seeds (late 80's) 2 x Original Auto BubbleGum > Fast Buds Company (late 80's) 2 x Strawberry Pie Auto > Fast Buds Company 1 x Gorilla Cookies Auto Seed Stockers (2015) 2 x Auto White Widow x Big Bud > Female Seeds setup: 18 x gronest 2 liter 60 cm x 120 cm x 180 cm (2 x 4) growtent 4 l humidifier 25 watt axial fan 15 watt clip fan ro-filter bath room with a 50 watts room fan (-> carbon filter not necessary) ...and a lot of odds and ends. grow strategy: max yield by stressing with: 1. tiny shoes (2 l fabric pots standing on 3 plastic rings (4 cm) for max oxygen) 2. tiny growspace (18plants on 0.72 sqm) 3. many strains (8 strains) 4. annoying neighbourhood (mixing old - i.e. bubblegum (late 80's) - with young- i.e. hazeberry (2018) - genetics) 5. no stress by light or food or water 6. unintentionally too much food plus: - no lst - no hst - just leaf tucking - positioning bigger strains (euphoria, orange bud, haze berry) or just bigger phenos on less intense light spots (end of tent + edges) - music-rotation: 24 hrs reggae (for sativas) - 24 hrs classicals (because it's scientifically proofed) - 24 hrs traditionals from the hindukush region (for the indicas) max efficiency (min electricity - max yield): - light: 23 h on - 1 h off - keeping the distance of 18" (45 cm) and dimming to the right par (lux) - value depending on growing stages (see sheet: beginning 185 par ( 10000 lux/100 watt )/end 340 par ( 18000 lux/175 watt )) => ends up in approx. 170 watts in average over max 15 weeks temperatur management: - using approx. max. half of what the lamp can do keeps temperature low: my tsl 2000 is pulling max. 360 watts of the wall - i need only 175 watts, results in less temperature than using a 175 watts lamp - adjusting the temperature by using a humidifier outside of tent: blown in humidity is soaking degrees and is transported out by fan, works much better than doing the same with pure air summer extreme: no humidifier: 36°C / 35 rh - with humidifier: 29°C / 65 rh works for 1-2 weeks of real hot summer days, no mould, no signs of stress in two summers germination: seeding in waterglass spraying "basic"-water: ro-water (22 ppm) + calmag to 180 ppm every 4 - 8 hours until sprouted man versus fungus gnat: 5 days before seeding i'm running the tent with "basic"-watered pots as if there were plants inside - led on, fans on, humidifier on. Fungus gnats coming with the soil might take the chance to come out now for breeding. i'm waiting with a 9 mm rifle. in the past i found 6 gnats in 2 of 8 x 50 l biobizz lightmix bags coming out of the soil. i could eliminate every single gnat successfully ;) rotating harvest: the little ones will be harvested completely when ready. at this point only the top branches of the big ones will be cut...and the new (basic-watered) pots of the new grow will move into the tent. 2-3 weeks later the secod half of the big ones will be cut and the second half of the new grow will move in... nutes: biobizz / soil: biobizz lightmix bloom,grow,topmax,activera,algamic + aminopower instead of bio heaven (too expensive) individual feeding schedule/once a week: veg: 200 - 600 ppm bloom: 600 - 900 ppm water: ro-water with: veg: 100-150 ppm calmag bloom: 150 ppm calmag

Beautiful growth on the plant without nutrients for now. Added a top soil using my new soil and it is packing with amendments and nutrients, so for now will depend on that. Maybe in about a week or 2 will start a nutrient feeding. But overall happy with the growth, and still hoping it’s a female. Just did a fimming for today (10 December 2021). Let’s see how it goes!

Today is the end of the fourth week for the plant. In a couple of days I will transplant it and top it off, the good weather is finally coming... The plants spent most of the day outside today, and at some moments there was a very strong wind, and I was not there, so now they are protesting a bit and probably angry that I left them..to apologize, I played them half an hour of quality reggae music, so I hope we'll be fine by tomorrow lol Stay high and keep growing my brothers ‘n’ sisters!!!

The Runtz beauties have made it through and are thriving. I switched to spring water to add a bit of ppm to the mix, while still getting a PH of 6.4-6.5. I mixed a spray bottle with 1 ml of Sensi Cal/Mag and .5 ml of Bonnie from Cronk nutrients. Used this mixture sparingly, misting the seedlings in the morning and night, trying not to overwater. Also used as a foliar spray just before lights out so as not to burn the plant. It been very cold and dry here, I had to add a 2nd humidifier to the tent to get the RH where I wanted it, hovering between 65 and 70% RH. The humidifiers I have are 1 gallon each and I have to refill daily! Temps has been hovering around 78 degrees and get to about 70 in lights out with the small heater I use during the winter months. Overall, they are progressing well, I’m hoping to get a few weeks of Veg time before they start to flower. 🇨🇦👊❤️

It's doing well, the scent is getting stronger, it's flowering beautifully, and it seems to be growing much better than the first one, which suffered from the climate and other factors. 12/12 from seed Watering with filtered tap water every 2/3 days, when the pot is lighter, 500-1000ml Soil: peat, coconut powder, perlite, carbonized rice husk, sheep manure and worm humus. essential mineral mix, vegetable flours, vegetable cakes, biochar, bokashi EM1 and other organic inputs, Algae ascophyllum nodosum small pots 3,7liters // 1gallon light: lm301h-evo 120watts with other plants

La signorina ha tirato su la cima... Inizia un po' ad allungarsi la pulizia continua Altri rametti sono stati sacrificati... Qui mi è partito l embolo(questa non so se i non italiani la capiscono😁) e ne vedrete delle belle...

Still going

June 19, day 91, the grow has gotten close to harvest time, so I am begining to reduce the nutrient EC for this upcoming week. I will then give the plant 24-48 hours of darkness, along with very low EC water before harvest. I continue to take leaves off as needed for canopy exposure, but I think the buds have pretty much reached the size they are going to get. While the density of the canopy has limited lower development, there are about 50-100 top bud sites which will each be a minimum of a couple grams dried (and some much more), so I am pretty excited to see the final wet a d dry harvest weights. The buds themselves are hard and resinous, glittering nicely when not under the strong LEDs. The smell is sweet, fruity, and floral, mild but pleasant. I have noticed more clear trichomes than I would be used to for the stage in the grow (although plenty of cloudy and amber as well). I have a suspect this might be due to genetics, and contributes to the euphoric high this strain in known for. June 21, day 93, worked to expose more underdeveloped bud during this final ripening period. It's coming along! June 23, day 95, the Euforia is ripening. A lower bud became light bleached when they were suddenly exposed to light, and I am interested to see what happens to it after harvest. Overall the buds are a lovely light purple/pink and are hard with trichomes.

What another great week it’s been , today is Day 39 from seed an the lil ladies have jumped into preflower 😍! Yesterday gave em the trim up of the unders , kinda popsicled you can say to each one, cause we want to focus on them colas ! This week we should see some more great progress, let them caps start stacking ! Can’t wait to see what we do next week ! Hope you all enjoy an have an amazing productive day! Peace love an positive vibes to y’all Cheers 😶‍🌫️💨💨💨💨💨🤙🏻

. FIRST DAYS ------------- This week is off to a good start; the girls are growing up to 35 cm, the pistils are developing, and there are no abnormalities to report. I waited a little too long before starting the CalMag (I live in the countryside, so I have to order everything online...), which resulted in a few yellow and brown spots on some leaves at the end of last week, but the deficiency has already been contained. I removed the “bandage” from the injured plant; it has healed perfectly. The plant affected by an infection has recovered well: the two branches trained to replace the main branches have grown well. They will undoubtedly each bear a respectable bud. One of the scars curiously resembles a half-lion, half-gorilla face: I see this as a sign of robustness😊 Finally, there is no doubt: all the girls are indeed girls, with no signs of hermaphroditism. Honestly, Fastbuds' White Widows are very resilient! 💪 MIDWEEK ----------- 7cm more in half a week; 2cm per day, good cruising speed Nothing to do today, they are recovering from lollipopping without any problems, they seem to appreciate the watering schedule, as well as the temperature and humidity. I can only watch them grow and resist the urge to manipulate them 😉 Oh, and one thing: frost is coming. 😍

Starting this week off again with some nighttime flashlight shots! For their growth, i cant say anything i havent said before, they keep being fast, they keep being awesome, they keep on swelling. Colors are also a treat for the eye, their yellow pistils contrasted by the purple buds, supplemented by the nice green fan leaves. I might even look over the clawing on some leaves and the starting nute burn ;D Staying with nutes, i turned down growth from 3ml/L to 2ml/L for both waterings this week, and ramped up topmax to 2ml/L for the second watering. They still received 2.5L both times, but both are starting to uptake a little less watering, leading me to probably give 2.25L or just 2L the next time, and i will probably wait a day or two more in between waterings. But we will see. I defoliated both on Day 53 pretty aggressively for my terms. This will also probably be the last time i did that, i like how they look now. Maybe some minor leaf-removal if some leaves look at me funny, but probably nothing id call "defoliation" moving forward. Also, some pistils started turning brown. I will, out of curiosity, start checking trichomes, and upload the pics/videos later this week when i will add the usual weekly timelapse. Also also, im still super happy with them. Later this week, here i am adding 3 more shots of both plants and a budsite, and the ever so important timelapse to finish week 8 off. See you next week!

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

Buds seriously starting to fatten up, put out some serious trichomes and smell this week. Smell has intensified quite alot since last week soon as you open the tent the smell smacks you in the face. More trichomes by the day looking like a serious smoke. Upped the EC to 2 for this week to try and get a much out of these as possible. I won't be going any higher than a 2 EC so I don't fry my plants. Some orange hairs starting to appear on both the cereal milk and wedding cake.

Sounds like another great strain to grow, 27% T.H.C., up to 600 grams per square metre, 70% indica & around 7 weeks of flowering. Plan is to mainline her currently week 2 day 9 of veg, started her straight into rock wool & sprouted in a few days. Started her on nutrients after a few days at 0.75ml per litre & increased to 2ml per litre start of week 2 & planted into final home, 15 litre pro pot going great.

She was easy to grow and got a huge main cola

Watermelon zkittlez va creciendo muy rápido también igual que chemical bride puedes ver el otro diario y verás que grande va

💩Holy Crap We Are Back At It And Loving It💩 Growmies we are at DAY 35 and she's just killing💀it👌 👉We are in the Preflower stretch 👈 So Shit , I gave them just a tad to much nutes on the last feeding 👈 But I have since fixed it So I'm starting to pull her over and do some low stress training 🙃 and some defolation 😳 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈

Please everyone.. my first grow. Going well. I need any and all suggestions as to the things I can do for next 7 weeks.. I'm going to flower week 12 week. Or should I less? Should I top. Film. Set up for scrog. When and where should I super crop? Do I need more pruning? Defoliation. More or less water... I'm very curious. Am I overreacting? Lol... awe yeah, some questions apply only if my video is loaded correctly... thanks.. I got a super mix in bottom third of pot. Buffed that zone with regular happy frog potting soil. Then backfilled rest with happy frog. Ps. Some of my new growth looks cut or chewed off. Lol. That's my topping tech or so called first f.i.l.m...lol in week 2... I just topped again. Slightly defoiliated