The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Wow, growing this beauty was amazing. She totally changed my perspective on autoflower cannabis plants! As well Seedsman! You guys rock! Seriously, I loved growing her from start to finish she took off in her living soil set up. The only thing I would change is having a bigger pot next time and being more watchful of my watering. But all in all she grew great threw veg, nice and strong branches, deep green and lush growth, and she followed that with a beautiful flower cycle. What more can I say?!? Will be looking forward to the next Seedsman competition 😉
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Two weeks of !2/12 done. Everything is going fine. My lamp is on full whack with the reds switched on, the UVA has always been on. This week I have got to keep a close eye on my run off for PH and C/f. The pond activator starts decomposing any bits of dead root, plant root excretions, even the coco itself. This results in a big jump in C/f and PH. The broad spectrum of bugs push the PH up but I stay on top of it with daily high volume run to waste using light Nutes at PH 5, by doing this the more Acidic tolerant bugs get the upper hand and after a week or so my PH will stabilise and I can cut down on the volumes of liquid I am putting through the pots. Whatever is in the activator does the job I want it to. It is a bit of a ball-ache to stabilise but after that, it is a dream. Why you may ask don't I use one of the many specific cannabis inoculations. For one Cost, an £8 250ml bottle will last me for a thousand years, cuts out the need for all the crap the industry tries to sell you! Also our little dancing friends, the Fungus Gnats do not like it. I get the odd one but no colony build up. Also I have not had any systemic infections in my pots since I started using it. (at least 10 years). I have thought about Infecting a glucose solution with it, then stabilising it to favour acid conditions and using that, so I don't have to monitor the first week so closely, but I'm a stoner and I can't be arsed. I have not tried pond activator in anything but Coco. I could see problems in soil regarding control. I would deffo try in full hydo though. The outdoor plant is a chemdogging S1 it germed out in the garden in a pot I thew in the garden last Autumn. A few had popped up only this one survived the bit of snow and minus temp's of three weeks ago. I lifted it threw it in a 5 litre pot in the greenhouse. I am curious about this plant as I have a number of seed from a reversed CD. I wasn't planning to start germing outdoors for a few weeks yet, but nature has jumped the gun. Today I have the secateurs out and will start taking out the bottom branches on the plants, also inspect for bollox on everything especially the ghost trains. I did say I would get plants out and photo them, but nothing needs moving, I can leave my bending till the last as my tent is 2.2 mtrs tall so I still have a bit of room to play with. In vid the back row left to right. Wedding Cake - Bit leggy and twiggy at this stage. Main cola branch is bent over but not tied down. By the time it gets back up, the other branches will have promoted themselves a bit. This plant has good girth and its habit is very similar to a USA cut I have grown. Difficult to clone relative to the others plants in this mother hunt. 14 days every other plant clone is in a pot and feeding, wedding cake is still in the starter blocks showing nothing. Back and centre, Orangesicle Looks and grows like French Cookies, it's parent ( I have a Mother FC in another universe) A nice looking plant which fimmed well, It is the smelliest plant in the grow with a very distinct Orange aroma. 4 cuts all feeding within 14 days this plant has vigour. Back right. Maltezerz. I like the look of this plant, Habit is similar to it's GG4 parent, I am expecting a yield of this plant. It has the stem and the right look. It does have a slight chocolat Hashy smell. Easy clone. Centre left. Blue Sherbelato. Did not like being fimmed or pinched out. Did that Hazy thing where the stem stretches at the node and promotes a main growing tip out of the two or four Meristems. 2nd slowest to clone, I dont have high expectations for this plant. Centre Mid. Ghost Train Number 2 . A little weed compared to the other ghost trains. Though they are 10 days younger than the rest of the grow 1,3, and 4 have overtaken size wise the other plants in tent. I may have to get it a crate to sit on otherwise it will get swamped. It cut ok . I won't dispose of the cuts just yet. The strongest green I ever smoked came from a little weedy plant. Centre right. GTH3, Big Skunky looking plant, Long internodes, Massive leaves Another plant that didn't like pinching out. Front left GTH1 Classic Haze shape it has been bent and topped and weaved in an out of itself. Cut easy. Front Centre, GTH4, The plant with weird growth. I thought this was male for a long time. It really looks a nice plant Easy cut. Front right Scotts OG. Nice vigorous plant. 'Well behaved'. It has a smell, Spicy Hash and Cookies, interesting. Easy clone. I have A male Scotts OG, Smells very similar, He's still in a 5 inch pot and getting fed up!
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Floragro/micro/Bloom At what age should i give it to you?
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@pzwags420
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On day 1 I adjusted the PH of the rez up to 6.2. I increased average ppfd to 972, with the highest ppfd on a top at 1500 ppfd lets see how she reacts and if she likes the intensity I will keep it steady till the end if not back to lower ppfd again. On day 6 I changed out the rez and ph to 6.2. Buds are growing and putting on weight very compact buds.
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@BLAZED
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Week 11 (2-9 t/m 8-9) Week 1 bloei 2-9 Temperatuur: 29.8 graden (licht aan) 21.5 graden (licht uit) Luchtvochtigheid: 80% (hoogste) 50% (laagste) Week 1 van de bloei is begonnen! Watergift: 1250 ml, met 0.2 ml Silica per liter, 1 gr Calcium PowderFeeding per liter. EC: 0.4 PH: 6.4 3-9 Temperatuur: 29 graden (licht aan) 21.5 graden (licht uit) Luchtvochtigheid: 69% (hoogste) 50% (laagste) Watergift: 500 ml, met 0.2 ml Silica per liter, 1 gr Calcium PowderFeeding per liter. EC: 0.4 PH: 6.4 4-9 Temperatuur: 28.5 graden (licht aan) 21.5 graden (licht uit) Luchtvochtigheid: 71% (hoogste) 51% (laagste) Watergift: 1200 ml, met 0.2 ml Silica per liter, 1 gr Calcium en 0.4 gr Hybrids Powderfeeding per liter. EC: 0.9 PH: 6.5 5-9 Temperatuur: 29.6 graden (licht aan) 20.8 graden (licht uit) Luchtvochtigheid: 72% (hoogste) 51% (laagste) Wat blaadjes weggehaald. Watergift: Geen. 6-9 Temperatuur: 33 graden (licht aan) 22.3 graden (licht uit) Luchtvochtigheid: 70% (hoogste) 42% (laagste) Watergift: 850 ml, met 0.2 ml Silica per liter, 1 gr Calcium PowderFeeding per liter. EC: 0.4 PH: 6.4 7-9 Temperatuur: 32.2 graden (licht aan) 22.6 graden (licht uit) Luchtvochtigheid: 66% (hoogste) 45% (laagste) De kartelpuntjes van het blad zijn lichtelijk geel, na het water geven heb ik de runoff gemeten en dat geeft een EC 2.4 en PH 6.8 aan. Ik ga nu een weekje geen Hybrids voeding geven en daarna ga ik de runoff weer meten. Watergift: 1500 ml, met 0.2 ml Silica per liter, 1 gr Calcium PowderFeeding per liter. EC: 0.4 PH: 6.4 8-9 Temperatuur: 30.4 graden (licht aan) 22.8 graden (licht uit) Luchtvochtigheid: 75% (hoogste) 46% (laagste) Watergift: Geen.
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@Sadhus
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Les racines sortent du pot seulement 48 après le rempotage, incroyable, très vigoureuses et saine, sa annonce du très lourd , sa plaisante pas chez kannabia 💪👌
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What a monster she is,hasnt even started blooming,,huuuuuge bush. Lower leaves show stress signs of what do you think?
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Looking good training main stems down to second ones .
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And here we are at our Zamnesia harvests, Northern Lights 1 - Born on 01.09.2024 - Harvested on 14.11.2024 precisely ten weeks and 4 days of life on this earth. ATTENTION - The other plant was harvested and documented in the previous week, for convenience and to better distinguish them at harvest time I divide them for you. Even though we are growers in our small intensive it is always a little displeasure to prune these masterpieces of nature and cannabis breeding but on the other hand the purpose for which it produced these buds full of resin is noble and if it remained there for a long time it would not come to a good end, so without further ado it is harvested. We evaluated the harvest because the flowers seemed to have been ripe for a while, very mature pistils, rock flowers that seemed ready for about a week but I still flushed for the best possible result in terms of organoleptic cleanliness of the flower. Pistils ripe at 80-90% and trichomes mostly clody, quite a bit amber and in the violet shades of the leaves reddish and violet gorgeous, really a beautiful show of trichomes. The scent is truly wonderful at the time of harvest I could not distinguish it well then slowly something sweet and fruity mixed with spicy came out a mix that always intoxicates me. The results in terms of quantity are not bad at all we will be around 30-40 the first one already harvested and 50-60 this one. We are very happy to be on Zamnesia's side and to show you what work they are doing with breeding. Soil - The plant was grown with the 100% organic Plagron Promix soil, which I really appreciated for its fantastic absorption coefficient and for an airiness that would not even require perlite, which I added in some cases. Fertilizers - From day one, fertilizers were calculated with the module on the Plagron website that allows you to calculate your customized fertilization schedule. I used: Alga Grow and Algra Bloom as basic fertilizers, Power Roots as a rooting agent, Sugar Royal amino acids, the very important Pure Zym enzymes that process the dead parts of the plant and transform them into fertilizer, Vita Race as a strengthening foliar, Power Buds that stimulates a very fast production of buds for real and the legendary Green Sensation booster without equal on the market. They are all available on the Zamnesia website in convenient packs perfect for growing, just do a simple search if you use mineral fertilizers and you will find the line that best suits you // At the link --- https://www.zamnesia.io/it/11457-plagron-easy-pack-natural.html On the Plagron website instead you can find the info and calculate your custom growing schedule At the link --- https://plagron.com/en The DS120w Growbox and the fantastic DF16 ventilation / filtration system are from Secret Jardin, there was a change of growbox between autoflowering and photoperiodic at a certain point for a height emergency if you notice discrepancies on the light models and growbox it is for this but everything should be fine. Highly recommended and with an excellent quality / price all the fans. At the Link --- https://www.secretjardin.com/ The light is from Viparspectra, always super reliable and productive, At the Link --- https://www.viparspectra.com/ The seeds and an unmissable series of accessories from the world of ganja and not only on the best site of the situation, At the link --- www.zamnesia.com
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@Naujas
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Week 8 is over :) the girl is suffering, maybe it's my mistake that I made, :( I used biotabs nutrients throughout the growth, and at one point, she even received two waterings with advancednutrients macro, after which she started to deteriorate, from now on only pure water :) looking at it from the other side, the flowers themselves really don't look like they will be small, the flowers are already getting a pink color, which is very beautiful to me :) in general, the girl is maturing quite well :) good luck to everyone.
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@Dengued
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Day 42....plants looking healthy and starting to bud nicely. Still just feeding organic spirulina
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@Hawkbo
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Finally got the temps up to an average of 78°F with the lights on and things turned right around. Someone on here reccomended I try putting a small 250w heater inside the tent with a fan behind it and it worked so shootout to @lionsshare. I took the autos and clones out and put them in the other tent. I have to take cuts of everything in here in case there is something special. It's been non stop work. The video was taken on day 2 of flower. I gave them a 36 hour dark period as well so they should stretch a little more and I might throw a few more plants in if there is room. These 3 all look pretty good, they were germinated atleast a week after the other strains so 2 are a little smaller but one is growing at a rapid clip and caught up to the others. I'm prob most excited about these because the previous 2 I grew were elite. Cant go wrong with Ethos
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getting very close to harvest now. i think this diary showcases exactly what can happen to the inexperienced, careless and unlucky growers out there. im not even sure i could call it a transplant survivor its that small ahah. but yeah day 56 almost there! im gonna check the website to see harvest estimates but another 2 weeks and we should be done :). i cant even say that ive been adjusting much for this grow, ever since i stunted it hard ive just been feeding it the same as my other diaries (slightly less water per feed) and it isnt getting burnt by nutes, it just keeps flowering at its own slow pace. ive smoked the lowest pistils and flowers, leaving about 70% of the plant intact and growing :) and it has definitely got me almost more stoned than the street weed at home, its insane that a undeveloped plant is stronger than whats going around. bearing in mind its damp, not tasty and slightly harsh compared to the street stuff. Check out these videos and happy growing folks! keep an eye out for harvest ;)
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@UrbanBoer
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Where did the time go, cannot believe a month nearly went by without posting… this week marks my half way point, no more nutrients just 2lt of water, I was away last week and my babies did not get any water they just basked in the sunlight and warm evenings. Today I did not get a chance to analyse was caught up with just wanting to catalogue and but I noticed no signs of any problems, just that she’s itching to be harvest but I need to flush for a month, I dosed them with so much nutrients to a point, I was feeding them 250ml of nutrients only, however before leaving I watered my babies with 2lt and then they experienced a week without water nor nutrients. I will analyse from next week. Tutorials here I come
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You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.
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@Bluemels
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Tag 53: Ab heute beginnt die Blüte bei der Chocolate Haze. Obwohl ich sie vor 2 Tagen nochmals entlaubt habe, ist die Pflanze schon wieder enorm gewachsen 😳 Ich hoffe ich kriege sie in der Blüte gebändigt 😬