Olá growmies! Foi alimentada dia 19Dezembro com 2.5l de água. É a primeira vez que estou a usar alg a mic da biobizz para ver se a planta n stressa tanto. Perguntei à empresa biobizz quais eram os valores ideais de E.C e eles responderam que os medidores de E.C não são muito fiaveis porque os nutrientes são 100% orgânicos. Recomendaram seguir o schedule deles e ter em conta aquilo que a planta nos pede. Feliz Natal e boas colheitas!

This week I tried to let them go, only did some gnat hunting with the vacuum to keep populations down. Sunshine found a great way to hold the plant down with some thrift store Christmas light fixtures. At the end of this week, I tied the remaining upward stalks down and away. The final bits of training before we can hopefully go towards flowering coming week. I did some foliar feeding also to help the soil dry out a bit, also to fight the gnats. Maybe overdid it a bit with a few yellow points on the leaves. On to flowering!!

End of week 3, moving into week 4. The ladies got one of their very last defoliation. And definitely need some water and a feeding. So I top dressed with worm castings, Gaia Green's 284 and a touch of 444. Also got some recharge as well! Super simple! Just keeping my temps and humidity dialed in as good as I can and keeping a good feed schedule and water schedule and they're thriving very easy organic grow!

Day 49: Watered the plants 0.5L with nuts, 4L total, 840 ppm, 1785 us/cm, PH 6.5 Day 52: Watered the plants 0.5L with nuts, 4L total, 727 ppm, 1551 us/cm, PH 6.5 Day 54: Watered the plants 0.5L with nuts, 4L total, 869 ppm, 1848 us/cm, PH 6.4

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Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.

In to week 7 now starting to flush!! Very impressed with this run 💚🌱💚🌱 I’m now running the Futur vert 30 W uv led for 5 hours of the 12/12 with the Futur vert flora max series

Just fed her water this week. Stretch is real in this week. Gheeez 😩

This one has been a breeze big fella :no_good:😂😂 I moved her closer to the light shes super Frosty orange hairs the fan leaves are even Frosty

Pics taken on day 36. Some, if not most of these are lightly seeded, I've checked for herms but cant find no nuts. Sucks but from what I've read and people I've talked to seems like it wont be too big of a deal in the end, some old school growers even prefer lightly seeded nugget, I've never tried it intentionally. The green buzz nutes are working well. I'm almost out of the more PK so I had to add herculean harvest liquid bonemeal to get the ppm where i want it while trying to conserve the Gbl to last the rest of the run. Didnt have the lady to take my pics today so I was limited and had to take them lefty one handed and was shakey af. Both are doing solid, I know the second one has a seed I couldn't see on the 1st. As of now #1 is the keeper I love the bud structure.

11/6 Fed and watered. Each took a full gallon. 11/8 They are really drinking up the water. They were dry already so I watered each with a full gallon. 11/10 Watered each with a full gallon 11/13 Watered and fed each with a gallon.

Week 4 of flowering 3 plants ran out of Cal. The Super Skunk are not like usual, there’s a lot of Sativa in the phenotypes. White Gorilla Haze are making small buds. Banana Kush are doing very well except the one with deficiency. Strawberry Kush are doing well except the one out of Cal. Girl Scout Cookies are doing well. Wedding Cheesecake are doing well. Reducing the Humidity and turned on the Dehumidifier. Adding 2 small fans blowing under the canopy. Switching to bloom nutrients, feeding is between 1000ppm to 1100ppm once a week. (I’m looking for a job in the Cannabis industry as Master Grower, Mineralogist, Quality Control)

Excelente sabor y olor

Been a minute growmies but I’m back with some updates. This week I realized I was going to have to get a new tent ASAP. Was really trying not to have to but it is inevitable. She is huge now! Even tried throughout this week and next to do some tie down with string to fabric pots. Sorry for wait…. I know she was sad towards the end of the week 😞. 8/31: Started new batch of nutes. Did a massive defoliation today as well! A lot more light through the canopy now. Cut dying bottom branches. 9/1: Did a lot of defoliation today. Even removed some of the lower branches not getting sufficient amount of light.

Pic was taken 2 days into the other week..all I can say that they are doing their thing have no complaints whatsoever....jus have to tighten up on feeding abit but results are great for the lil that's being done...have to work on increasing resin production and continue to dense up dem bugs Until next time happy growing

this whole grow was decent with a homemade tent i made but i did buy a 4x4 that im using now

Welcome growers I have finished the tirth week of vegetation with this young PINK KUSH 🌿 She's pretti healthy and faster in growing The lower internodes started to increase in size and they are looking for a lights ☀️ I hope to find some great colors with this one and some good Kush stone.. Trichomes city too ❄️❄️ Anyway.. In the beginning of the week I have transplanted into a 3l plastic pot.. Usually my choice of pot is the smartpot or the airpot 💯 And therefore, considering that the soil will obviously remain less aerated than usual, I have chosen to use a greater quantity of coco coir in the substrate I roughly prepared a mix of 50% light-mix (Canna professional and Biobizz), a 30% of coco coir (Atami), 10% worm-cast or humus (Atami) and around a 5% perlite wich it's already present in the light -mix.. I have also put a few micorizzae (Micosat F), like 10 grams, in direct contact with the roots and around 4 grams of Microlife (Bionova) in pellet form I will use this last one also for making an areated Tea, but during flowering.. About nutrients 👇 In this week i have giving their always organic/veganic nutrients.. Root-Juice (Biobizz) and Rizostimo (Biomagno) for the last time, plus a little bit of silicium (Bionova) and then Activator (Biomagno) / Crescita (Biomagno) / The Missing Link (Bionova) / X-Cell (Bionova) {This last two i have used in a foliar spray solution} Simply a little bit of everything at any watering 💧 About the lights 💡 I currently using for the first time, two Mars-Hydro SP3000, running at 25% of the power for now.. Next week im going to increase at least to 50% ⬆️ Onestly this lights looks pretty solid, definetly intense, with a spectrum really close ro the sun light One of the cool things about it it's that you can connected each one toghter with a cable and so you can controll the intensity of the lights very easy, in a precis way 👌 We will see in this months how they works And that's all.. See you next upgrade.. Thank you so much for stopping 😎👍 FC ✌️ 🇮🇹

Ec intake 3.0 Ec run off 2.9 Ph intake 5.8 Ph run off 5.6 Week 4 flower today Iv hit 3.0 now il slowley push back unless the lady’s are asking for more 🤩 VPD 1.3 KPA average Looking forwards for week 5 transformation 🎸 where jamming

Defoliated and lollipopped quite a bit, also flipped the ladies this week! All the girls are looking very happy and I’m super excited to see some flowering action soon 🤩 also I’m glad I managed to fill up the tent completely, with an uncountable amount of budsites!