"Mens Dei" What can be made to expand, airy and loose, can also be made to contract, dense and tight. Trichomes do not discriminate, although we like to think of trichomes' primary purpose as being to get us high; they are there to provide photoprotection (sunscreen). Trichomes apply themselves based on area dimensions; the more area = the more trichomes in order to protect. Different from density: Trichomes, the resinous glands on plants, are often produced in response to stress, including high light intensity. This increased production can lead to denser trichome coverage on the plant, stress, stress, stress, stress is the signal. There is a certain beauty in watching the large water-filled buds once swollen to the brim slowly shrink during drying, as the surface areas contract, the trichomes just cluster up to form denser and denser coatings, already dense from high light intensities, UVB exposure, and IPS, and every other stressor I could tweak. Trichomes, the resinous glands on cannabis plants, are often produced in response to various forms of stress. These stresses can be environmental, like excess light(HIL) or UV-B radiation, temperature fluctuations, or drought, or mechanical, such as wind, pruning, or even the weight of the plant's own buds. The plant reacts to these stressors by increasing trichome production as a defensive mechanism to protect itself and its valuable compounds like THC and CBD. In essence, cannabis plants perceive stress as a threat and respond by producing more trichomes as a way to protect themselves and their valuable compounds. Several studies have shown this. Not so much a "master" grower as a master of stress. Psssst. Trichomes fill with "antioxidants," including THC. Ant"ox"idants, The production of antioxidants in plants is intricately linked to their oxidative apparatus. The plant has limited oxidative capacity/apparatus. During daytime photosynthesis, a large percentage of that oxidative capacity is tied up in protecting the plant. During the night, plants alter their metabolic pathways. This leads to a far more focused production of specific antioxidants, like THC. Plants also produce antioxidants during the day to scavenge ROS made from photosynthesis. The differential ROS production by blue and IR light can have significant biological consequences. For example, high levels of ROS induced by blue light can lead to cell damage and death, while lower levels of ROS produced by IR light may be involved in beneficial cellular signaling pathways. Long nights under the IR (very low ROS), the boost in cellular respiration, and the boost in energy production. In a perfect world, I'd give the plant a shock treatment of 60DLI in 4 hours and give her the other 20 hours to perform cellular respiration under IR. The stress of those 4 hours would be rigorous and full of stress abound, 1800-2000ppm CO2 is easy for a couple of hours during daylight, it's maintaining it that's hard, but 4 hours is very doable with nothing but a little extra "carbon sugar" in your medium every other night during the first 4 weeks of flower. In my opinion, you only need to jack CO2 for those first 4 weeks of flower to see maximal output, after that it's all about trichome preservation, everything else comes second. Without the temps to assist with metabolism, CO2 is reduced to normal levels along with temps 4-5th week of flower. Buds are primarily composed of water. Developing flower buds, like other plant tissues, require a significant amount of water for growth and turgor pressure, which helps maintain their structure and firmness. Turgor pressure in plant cells is primarily generated by osmosis, but transpiration plays a crucial role in maintaining it. The optimal internal leaf surface temperature for photosynthesis at 1800-2000ppm CO2 is likely in the upper range of 97°F, meaning ambient would need to sit at 102°F-ish or thereabout for full metabolic utilization. That's putting your transpirational pulling force x5 x6 maybe x7 of what it would be if she were cruising at 68F. "My buds won't fatten, what can I do!!" Crank it. If your purpose was to blow up a balloon as fast as you can, as much as you can, would you use 2x force or x5 Force to do so? Bad analogy, but you get the idea. Kiss. Optimize photosynthesis & VPD by day, cellular respiration by night. TECHNICALLY: "While transpiration and cellular respiration are both ongoing plant processes, they are not neatly separated into day and night. Both processes occur both day and night, though at different rates and with different emphasis. Transpiration, the release of water vapor from plant surfaces, is primarily driven by sunlight and photosynthesis during the day, but it also continues at a lower rate at night. Cellular respiration, which provides energy for the plant, occurs continuously, both day and night. " A leaf can perform cellular respiration and photosynthesis simultaneously. During daylight hours, plant cells utilize both processes: photosynthesis to produce glucose and oxygen, and cellular respiration to break down glucose and release energy for the cell's needs. The products of photosynthesis (glucose and oxygen) are used as reactants in cellular respiration, while the products of cellular respiration (carbon dioxide and water) can be used in photosynthesis. The limiting factor is the oxidative capacity; the less a leaf is utilizing photosynthesis, the less oxidative capacity it uses, and the more it can perform cellular respiration. Even if a leaf is not in an optimal photosynthetic position, it can still utilize respiration to its full capacity during daylight hours. Kinda too much info to explain when some asks if they should defoliate or not, yeah add calmag or some shit. BUT Only 10% ATP can be processed through photosynthesis and carbon capture. 90% of ATP is processed when the plant's oxidative capacity becomes available (NIGHTTIME). Cellular respiration relies on the process of oxidation to generate energy. Specifically, the final stage of cellular respiration, called oxidative phosphorylation, utilizes oxygen as the final electron acceptor to produce a substantial amount of ATP, the cell's primary energy currency. Factors such as oxygen concentration, glucose availability and temperature will all impact the amount of aerobic respiration an organism will perform. See you next grow, *twiddles thumbs*

12/12 + 95 jours Vu qu’il y a 16 plantes mais que sur growdiaries on ne peut mettre que 8 variétés j'ai divisé en 2 diaries pour le bas de la tente 1️⃣ 🏠 90x60x90 ☀️ FC-E 4800 => puissance a 75% 🍁 1x Black Bomb / Philosopher Seed 2x Amnesia Lemon / PEV Seeds 1x Blueberry / PEV Seeds 1x Blueberry / 00 Seeds 1x Wappa / Paradise Seed 1x Dark Phoenix / Green House Seed 1x Quick Sherbet / Exotic Seeds 1x Mango Cream / Exotic Seeds 1x Banana Frosting / Sensi Seed 1x Hindu Kush / Sensi Seed 4x Fast Mix / Sweet Seed 📎 https://growdiaries.com/diaries/122084-grow-journal-by-soosan 📎https://growdiaries.com/diaries/124052-grow-journal-by-soosan 2️⃣ 🏠 30x60x50 ☀️TS1000 => 100w = 54g 🍁 Quick Sherbet - Exotic Seed = 12g Quick Sherbet - Exotic Seed = 12g Quick Sherbet - Exotic Seed = 17,5g Quick Sherbet - Exotic Seed = 12,5g 📎 https://growdiaries.com/diaries/122080-grow-journal-by-soosan

New phone better pics this week. No nutes given last 2 feeds hoping to chop some point over the next week or shall I go another week?

🤩💚✌️

She is a single main cola plant, I mean all the flowers have compacted together and there only one fat dense nugget, that's the whole plant, very sweet aroma, is very nice, it's not stinky at all, very sweet smell but you really have to get close to the flower to feel the powerful aroma. The cola is very very dense and hard like a rocket 🚀. Very nice strain but I would need to plant about 50 of these to get a good harvest. Hope you enjoy guys! 💚 🌱 ✌️

### ANY ADVISE IS EXTREMELY APPRECIATED 1ST GROW AND AUTOS NORTHEN LIGHTS AND JACK HERER....thanks like i mentioned my 1st and im coming along ok in soil please all is welcomed thanks in advance 😀 i got little confused with adding all the journals to 1 diary but think I'm there now and have the hang of this for u guys to follow thanks and happy for any input and advice will these as autos take a growth spurt

Scrog

La défoliation a fait du bien . Elle a une Belle couleur et sa croi

Going tie them down this week topped most branches this morning

Soaked in distilled water for 24 hours and planted in the ground In a few hours they were out. Watered every other day with 0,1 l

This week I made a couple of changes. 1st, I moved the time lapse camera to the other side of the tent and set it to take a pic every 10 mins instead of 5. Then on Monday, I started with the nutes and since now I had to mix them up, I decided to test an auto watering system using a fountain pump and a plant watering kit with hoses and tips that I got at a dollar store no less. Still a growing curve to get the right amounts, as you will see in the time lapse I had a little spill over in one pot. I will play with them more this week to fine tune the amount, then set it on timer and just keep filling the bucket and testing the ph. So far the girls are getting bigger and I ordered a net from Amazon to try the ScrOG method as they get bigger still to keep the height down and spread them out some more and eventually get a better yield at harvest time. I am also going to do a little topping this coming week. I also added an air bubble stone to the bucket to keep the nutes mixed up.

We are entering the finish line, 1 more weeks of flushing and harvest 🔥😎 N 80 P 113 K 224 Ca 50 Mg 95 S 100 Fe 1,2 👌

@FAST_BUDS, Hi all the happy people here in GrowDiaries. This is my second cultivation ever and it will be fun to try a bigger space than my closet grow. First, I'm just going to say I'm done with the construction of my new growroom. I put some pictures on the construction here in week one. The room is 2.14 meters by 1.7 meters and has a ceiling height of 2 meters. It provides a floor area of ​​3.6 square meters. I use a 54 Watt Lightwawe T5 for germination and 2 Pcs 400 Watt HPS lamps. I have a channel fan that replaces the room air about 40 times an hour to get a comfortable environment in the room, the air enters a fresh air intake from the outside. The air is purified through a carbon filter to then leave the room to the rest of the basement. Then I use that heat to heat the rest of the basement. I will use 8 pcs 15 liter Autopots to grow with and a 100 liter water tank that supplies the pots of water and nutrition. I will grow completely organically in soil and will watercure my buds to get the best possible medicine for me. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2017-09-18. Week 5 starts. Added new video. Girl Nr 1 is 46 cm high and Nr 2 is 33 cm. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2017-09-19. 2 new fans is installed in the grow room. Added pic and video. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2017-09-20. Kl 10.00. New video. The Nr1 girl is 52 cm high and Nr 2 is 32 cm. Kl 23.00. Did some massive defoliation, added video and pics ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 2017-09-22. The girls have recovered well after my massive defoliation. Girl number 1 is now 56 cm tall and number 2 is 35 cm. They have received 6 liters of water and nutrition today. --------------------------------------------------------------

Update week 4 Bloom

La planta se estiró muy rapido y con la luz empezó a crecer hacia los lados en la noche la saco para nutrir y cada vez absorbe más agua trato de darle una vez a la semana alimento y agregó agua cuando el sustrato se seca

Wow look at her grow we are in the second week of her flowering stretch and she looks amazing. Smells good already omg super excited about this one ☝️🏽

It has been another amazing week of the plants growing. I have been watching as the Fruity Freak leaves become progressively more fern-like, and ornamental as a result! Based on my Banizzle grows, I knew I needed to understand plant nutrients in a more meaningful way if I wanted these plants to thrive. So, I decided to get a soil test (see Ref. 1 below on how to perform a test) to understand what nutrients my plants needed. The report I received advised that I needed to add 200 lbs/acre of nitrogen, 150 lbs/acre of phosphorus, and 190 lbs/acre of potassium (see picture labeled Pic.1 (FYI you can't see these images unless you login to growdiaries)). I then researched what to do with my results (Ref. 2 helped), and I figured out that my nutrient needs of 200-150-190 fall close to a 2-1-2 ratio. I then looked at different types of organic fertilizers (see Ref. 3 and Ref. 4) and considered that I already had a 3-10-5 fertilizer (Vermibloom) on hand. I discovered Dr Earth’s Alfalfa Meal is 2-1-2 and includes beneficial bacteria and mycorrhizae (to promote healthy plant growth and disease resistance). However, I knew I would be low on nitrogen if I only used those two fertilizers. Therefore, I decided to buy some blood meal (12-0-0). I also liked that blood meal is more fast acting while the other two are more moderate. I hunted around for a solid fertilizer calculator and found an amazing tool from the University of Georgia Extension (Ref. 5). I entered all three fertilizers into the calculator, and it kicked out the exact amount of each fertilizer I needed to apply to 1 square foot (see Pic. 2). As I am using 10-gallon fabric pots (that can hold 1.5 cubic feet, but I put stone on the bottom and there’s space left at the top) I decided to use the one square foot application rate as I can always add more later, but I can’t take it away. Not only did I want to understand the nutrients I needed, but I also wanted to understand the structure of the soil (as it was not included in my test results). North Dakota State University has a nice page that discusses this (Ref. 6), and I performed a soil ribbon test (see Video 1) based on this information. I determined my soil to be medium textured (which is great), but I have seen occasional water pooling on the surface, suggesting that it may be more of a medium-fine. This means adding peat moss, coco coir, or other amendments might improve drainage (and plant hydration) and allow for roots to grow more easily. In the long run, I plan to use compost to enhance the soil structure and nutrients. I filled the bottom of my 10-gallon fabric pots with a ½” of pea stone to allow for drainage (Pic. 3). I then partially filled two 5-gallon buckets with topsoil from near where I will plant (but not in an area the roots will reach). I used a digital scale to measure the amount of fertilizers recommended by the calculator (Pic. 4, 5, and 6) and added it to one of the 5-gallon buckets (see Pic. 7). I mixed the fertilizers into the soil as evenly as possible (Pic. 8 and 9). I then poured a two-inch layer of non-fertilized soil, then peat moss, and then fertilized soil (in a roughly 2:1:1 ratio) and blended them together. I repeated this until the pot was full (getting additional soil as needed), and then I repeated the process for the other three pots. I set the filled fabric pots in my garage (Pic. 10) for two days to allow any upset bugs to flee into my garage instead of my house. I then moved the pots (wrapping them in a contractor garbage bag to prevent making a mess) into the room with the grow light. I placed a board on top of the fabric pots to insulate the plants (in their smaller pots) from the cold soil (Pic. 11). Once the soil in the fabric pots reaches room temperature, I will transplant. (Ref. 1) This video shows the method I used to take a soil sample. I didn’t have a field to test, so I took four samples from the area where I will eventually plant outdoors and blended them together. I then mailed my soil sample off to the lab, and about a week later, I received an email with a PDF of my results (included with my pictures this week). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9AwxmFxBwg&t=8s (Ref. 2) This video from the University of Minnesota Extension (many universities have agriculture extensions that can assist you with soil testing and growing information for your area) discusses what to do with your soil testing results: https://youtu.be/HYrkcfE62Pg (Ref. 3) This is a nice article that discusses organic fertilizer solutions: https://www.grow-it-organically.com/npk-fertilizer.html (Ref. 4) This article lists the NPK values of many organic fertilizer solutions: https://www.epicgardening.com/organic-fertilizers/ (Ref. 5) Many websites tout a fertilizer calculator…but this one is hands down the best I have found. If you scroll down to the bottom, you can enter any fertilizer type you want (and the cost, if you want). It will give you the exact blend of multiple fertilizers to solve your nutrient deficiencies (I included a snapshot of the solution I used in my pictures). https://aesl.ces.uga.edu/soil/fertcalc/ (Ref. 6) This is an excellent article that discusses how to evaluate your soil: https://www.ndsu.edu/agriculture/extension/publications/evaluating-preparing-and-amending-lawn-and-garden-soil