Solo una parola..... CARINISSIMA!!!! almeno a me piace!

Another week closer.... Well its coming to an end pretty soon...the girls leaves are starting to fade and the buds are getting nice and tight...Frosty and smelling great. Nothing to report, not much happens the last few weeks its just you got to have patience, and let them ripen up... Until next week, smoke a fatty, help out your fellow grower.

FERMAKOR BARREL MIX – BASE IN USE (Testing on the Fantasy Feast girl we pulled out of another diary https://growdiaries.com/diaries/274722-grow-journal-by-yan402 ) (FERMAKOR BASE SYSTEM KOH VERSION diary https://growdiaries.com/diaries/278391-grow-journal-by-yan402) (Urea & Micros on the way — first week running without them) 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 💧 30 L Barrel – Current Working Mix 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 Step 1 – Calcium Nitrate (Part A) 7 L warm water (~35–40 °C) → added 45 g Calcinit, stirred until fully clear. That’s the calcium + nitrogen backbone for the feed. Step 2 – FERMAKOR PK Base (Part B) 15 L water in the main barrel → added 30 ml FERMAKOR PK Concentrate, mixed well. This forms the main P + K part of the formula. Step 3 – Combine Solutions Slowly poured the Calcinit mix into the barrel while stirring — no reaction, still crystal clear. That confirms the mix is stable and precipitation-free. 🌿 Step 4 – FPJ / FFJ Batch Added 30 ml homemade FPJ (fish + veg batch) ≈ 1 ml/L. Color shifted to a light-amber tone — looks alive and active. 🍋 Step 5 – Citric Acid Balance Added 1 tsp citric acid after everything was blended to fine-tune pH and help chelate micros later on. 📦 Step 6 – Top Up & Check Filled to the 30 L mark with plain water → pH tested with drops, showing yellow-green — roughly 5.8 – 6.0 range. Nice clean look, stable smell, no residue. 💧 Current Base Ingredients (Active Mix) Warm Water ≈ 22 L total Calcinit 45 g → N + Ca foundation FERMAKOR PK Base 30 ml → P + K support Citric Acid 1 tsp → Chelation + pH balance FPJ / Fish Emulsion 30 ml → Organic enzyme booster Result: clean amber mix, mild and balanced. I’ll let this version run for a week before adding anything. 👀👀👀👀👀👀 Observations and changes 👀👀👀👀👀👀 27.10.25 VW27 noticed some min burnt tips so I decreased Calcium Nitrate 45 to → 40g, decided to add two more elements micros and Epsom salts just to make sure they got everything, Fetrilon Combi 1 (Micros): 0.5 g, Epsom salts: 8 g 28.10.25 VW27 she seems devoid of any deficiencies, seems ready for the flip to 12/12 02.11.25 VW27 girl is looking good so I decided to stop making daily videos and do a standard once a week update. 09.11.25 aVW28 7 days since flip,stretch in full swing, first pistils showing, leaf color deep and healthy. Slight tip burn early week → gone after pH stabilized. Feed stayed clear, no residue, roots clean and sweet-smelling, did what I hope is a last cleanup and pruning🎥 10.11.25 VW29 added Phosphoric acid pH down to the schedule for flowering stage. 🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱 🌿Day to day tasks & actions 🌿 🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱 09.11.25 VW28 -- Fed 5l of #1→ no runoff 10.11.25 VW29 – Fed 5l of FERMAKOR PK → 2l runoff 11.11.25 VW29 – Fed 5l of FERMAKOR PK → 2l runoff 12.11.25 VW29 – Fed 5l of FERMAKOR PK → 2l runoff 13.11.25 VW29 – Fed 5l of FERMAKOR PK → 2l runoff 14.11.25 VW29 – Fed 5l of FERMAKOR PK → 2l runoff 15.11.25 VW29 – no feed no water 16.11.25 VW29 – no feed no water 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 💧 Nutrients in 30 L #1 Veg — FERMAKOR 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 💧 Calcium Nitrate (Calcinit / Nitcal): 45 → 40 g = 1.33 g/L → 207 ppm N + 253 ppm Ca 🍶 PK Concentrate (FERMAKOR Base): 30 → 40 ml = 1.00 → 1.33 ml/L → balanced 1:1 P:K + light micros (from extract) 💧 Home-made FFJ/FPJ (Fish + Veg): 30 ml = 1.00 ml/L 🍶 Epsom Salt (MgSO₄·7H₂O): 8 g = 0.27 g/L → 26 ppm Mg + 35 ppm S 💧 Fetrilon Combi 1 (Micros): 0.5 g = 0.017 g/L → Fe 0.7 ppm • Mn 0.7 ppm • Zn 0.3 ppm • Cu 0.3 ppm • B 0.1 ppm • Mo 0.02 ppm 🍶Phosphoric Acid (pH down) + Citric Acid (chelation): as needed → First set pH with phosphoric acid, then add a little citric only if you want extra chelation 💧 Target pH: 5.8 – 6.0 (drop test yellow-green) 📦 TOTAL: 60 → 70 ml / 48.5 g inputs per 30 L = 2.00 → 2.33 ml/L + 1.62 g/L YouTube Link: https://youtube.com/-m8h?si=A7x4Zlr2kj-_ga31

Strain: Fast Buds – Mixed Photoperiod Pack #1 Grow Type: Indoor Pot Size: 3 Gallon Medium: Peat Moss & Perlite Nutrient Line: Athena (Bloom) Week 7 Update I’m honestly amazed at how well I trained this plant, the 6-manifold came out perfect. She’s doing excellent, showing vigorous growth and a strong, balanced structure. Everything about her looks healthy, from the canopy to the bud sites starting to fill in. She’s taking her nutrients really well with no signs of deficiencies or stress. I’m excited to see how she looks later in flower once those buds start packing on. Feeding 1.9 L Athena Bloom nutrient mix (steady from this point). Indoor Climate Conditions Temperature: 24–27°C Humidity: 45–55% VPD: ~1.3–1.8 kPa See y’all next week! And don’t forget to use my discount code ISLANDT for 15% off your next order at Fast Buds!

The buds are still growing and I have already discovered the first amber-coloured trichomes on Bruce Banner and S.A.D. #4. I think the harvest will be ready in 2-3 weeks. Until then, I will continue to observe the trichomes with the microscope.

Another good week smoothie really coming along now zkittles still seems a bit behind she is going I can tell by the white hairs ect but not sure if I've hindered her in anyway , maybe stressed her abit with defoliating I'm not sure,.. starting week 7 now... appreciate any input 👌

This is my fav strain for now. I love the taste more than anything. Take a vape hit and exhale through the nose. Oh god, this is good. Despite the low light intensity, The BUDS ARE TIGHTER THAN THE FIST OF A FIGHTER.

2ª Settimana di Fioritura 💐: La bella e vigorosa Critical Lemon⚡🍋, Continua nella sua crescita e mette in mostra tutti i suoi nuovi fiori!😍 Sotto il vigile controllo di TENT-X 🤖, la piccola sta dando il suo massimo nel vaso da 6,5 litri...... Abbiamo settato anche alba e tramonto con una durata di 10 minuti (figata) ☺️👏🏻👍🏻

👉The daily routine of twice daily fertigation has given me a small insight as to what Phil Conners may have gone thru. There has been promising changes however that re-assure me that the plant is indeed maturing and will finish soon. The top leaves are starting to fade, and a couple of amber trichomes have been spotted! So far the amber color is light, almost yellow, and should darken up a bit by harvest time. At the rate they seem to be getting cloudy/milky I could be harvesting in as little as 3 days, but that is just wishful thinking I'm sure. I'm hoping no more than 10 more days. But I will let the plant decide...as long as there are only a few clears and the rest cloudy then I will harvest. 👉I took one small cola tip bud from an upper level, secondary branch. It weighed 30g with leaves, 10g trimmed and when dried to 20% should be 2g. I did this to be able to inspect the buds with a little more stability when using the USB scope. Those pix are the first 6 on this page. 👉Nutrient mix is the same recipe: week 11 on the General hydroponics flora series drain to waste chart. I reduced the concentration to 1ms from 1.3. The saturation level for the pot is averaging around 1lt per fertigation. I give it 2.5l at lights on, and 2L 1-2hrs before lights off. For some reason this grow session there is a persistent/prolific algea growth on the outside of the pot (cloth pot). I have the same fan setup Ive been using all year. It may be that when I didnt spray the pot off for a couple week the algea got a firm hold on the pot. I use a pressure sprayer with a H2O2 solution (1gallon water with 60ml h202) to spray off the exterior of the pot every couple days. THis keeps it at bay somewhat. After harvest I will cut open the cloth pot to see if the algea extends inside the pot any and if has affected the roots. 👉 While trichome hunting is very kewl if good pictures are taken, its very frustrating to get a decent pic due to any slight shake causes the pic to blur. When doing daily eye loop inspections I dont turn off the grow lights or fans. But when trying to get pix I turn off all the fans and both grow lights. This helps a little when trying to take pix with the USB scope.I have the small scope mounted on a tripod and that eliminate my own movement, but just trying to focus proves to be tedious because any touch causes the image to shake wildly, which results in very slow progress as I search around the plant and try for decent pix. Today I got a tube extension set for my 35mm DSLR. It turned my regular 55mm lens into a macro lens. While its not the same as a regular macro lense, its way cheaper....35$ for the tube set as opposed to 300$ for an actual macro lens. THe high resolution allows me to get sharp images with a deeper feild of focus than the scope. I still need lots of practice and need to work on lighting. I included some cropped and un-cropped macro shots done with the camera. The other macro shots are the USB scope. You can see its still got plenty of clear, lots of cloudy, and an amber here or there. The areas that I have touched have strands of resin that look almost like spider silk. SOOOOOO frosty! Santa is going to really enjoy his milk and cookies when he visits my house.

Here we go, 4 days before harvest time. Last 2 days, light will be off. Cant wait to cut those ladies down :)

This was a good week, Its was my first learning experiment that an under watered plant=dry, droopy, unhappy leaves. A properly watered plant= happy smooth, fluffy, lush leaves. I hopefully won't mess up again. The presence of a missing bit of leaf indicates that a bug was enjoying being on my leaf..I had caught an elm bettle and immediately grabbed it, but it must be had lunch first. I hope it was an isolated incident. However probably a good washing/wiping of the leaves is overdue. I added the @Foxfarm Open sesame into the nutrients as I read a couple diaries that reported an increase in bud sites. I also added an additional cfl light to keep trying to bulk the middle. Ill need to start hardening off the plant as outdoor planting time is roughly 2 weeks away. I added a short video of my very basic and simple setup, for anyone anywhere to begin a grow. My apologies at not having one on my first week documentation. Happy growing to everyone, and best of luck to the outdoor crews.

Deleafed on D75 and put in darkness for 2days. Chopped and hung in tent for 9 days. Smoked up a fair bit before weighing so easily would of been over 3oz dry which was pretty surprising considering the problems. Bud has a strong fuel taste and smell with a little fruitiness.

The cannabis strain Grape Guava can be a purple strain, depending on its specific phenotype and genetic makeup. While not all phenotypes of Grape Guava are purple, some variations, such as the Zatix Grape Guava, are noted for their striking purple appearance due to the genetic expression of anthocyanin pigments. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKdVmdoKJ5k In a garden of green, Grape Guava gleams, With its fruity aroma, enchanting dreams. Clusters of grapes, guava's sweetness ignite, A strain so divine, in purple and white. Euphoria whispers, a lush fruity haze, Grape Guava's embrace, a tranquil daze. Off and away.@1400ppm. The increased CO2 allows plants to thrive at higher temperatures, which in turn necessitates higher humidity to maintain the ideal VPD for healthy growth and transpiration. 80F -5F = 75F LST with 70% RH = 0.72 kPa. Higher temperatures and humidity promote rapid growth, nutrient uptake, and photosynthesis while maintaining a lower stress level. Temperature influences the rate of enzymatic reactions involved in aerobic respiration. Enzymes, such as those involved in glycolysis, the Krebs cycle, and the electron transport chain, work most efficiently at an optimal temperature range. In low temperatures, enzymatic activity will slow down, thus reducing the rate of aerobic respiration. In high temperatures, enzymes can become denatured, thus impairing their function and stopping the process of aerobic respiration. Glucose is the primary fuel for aerobic respiration. The rate of aerobic respiration increases with the availability of glucose, as it is the starting point for glycolysis. If glucose levels are low, cells may rely on alternative energy sources such as fatty acids or amino acids , but these processes may yield less ATP or be less efficient. To determine this effect, carbon dioxide volume was measured (as carbon dioxide is an output of aerobic respiration) 18/6 with the 6 being IR. The near infrared (IR-a) borders around 700nm up to 1400nm @ photon par flux density of 1.8 instead of darkness, keeping temps overnight a neat 77F-80F. Think of my tent as a lung. What goes in must come out. When the rate of air going out exceeds the amount of air coming in, it creates a negative pressure. Tent concaves (bends in). If set up correctly, your RH will begin to drop slowly to the desired level you set, and the extraction turns off when it reaches desired% RH. The plant, as it performs cellular respiration, will always be releasing more water into the air, so the RH% of the tent overnight will always increase, so long as oxidative phosphorylation is occurring. As soon as the RH% creeps back up to 55%, the extraction turns back on, over and over. This creates a strong pressure differential which will work wonders on your grow. Replicating high and low-pressure fronts in nature. Critical for oxygen diffusion at the critical time of peak cellular respiratory function.. Moisture will not transfer from a saturated atmosphere to another if that air is already at or above its saturation point, meaning the air can't hold any more water vapor. Once I understood that water is produced as a by product during cellular respiration, specifically at the very end of the electron transport chain (ETC) where electrons are finally transferred to molecular oxygen, the higher the RH of the air, the more resistance there is for more moisture to be added to that environment, and effects the ease with which it does so. But none of that water comes from the pot; it's pulled from the air. If you run high daytime RH, your medium/pot is 100% reliant on transpirational root pull to move water. ZERO evaporation happens across the atmosphere if the tent air has high RH%, the medium cannot release its water through evaporation. Once a canopy develops, light no longer slowly wicks and evaporates from the topsoil. The Soil-Plant-Atmosphere Continuum (SPAC) describes the continuous pathway and process of water movement, driven by a gradient in water potential, from the soil, through the plant's roots, stem, and leaves, and finally evaporating into the atmosphere through transpiration. There is evaporation, there is transpiration, and then there is evapotranspiration; Evapotranspiration (ET) is the combined total of two processes: evaporation (water lost directly from soil and surface water into the atmosphere) and transpiration (water released from plants to the atmosphere through their leaves). Evapotranspiration represents the total amount of water that moves from the medium into the air. There is no such thing as a medium with too much water, only a medium that retains too much for too long. The water must always flow efficiently from one atmosphere(Medium) to another(Air) in a timely manner. Moisture is a critical factor for bacterial growth and decay. Dictating how long it's allowed to sit in any one location for any given period is a key preferred control. To ensure a net reduction in a bacterial population, the rate of removal (ET) must exceed the rate of bacterial growth (decay rate), which is often modeled as a growth rate for the specific bacterium under the given conditions. By optimizing daytime VPD, we also optimize conditions for bacterial growth to explode exponentially above 77°F.. If water is allowed to sit in a medium without an escape within a timeframe, nothing good will happen. IF High RH is maintained overnight as well as during the day, placing 100% of water movement at the behest of daytime transpiration, roots can only pull where they can reach, and if soil is compressed above a certain point, moisture will become trapped in a medium with no way of moving day or night. This will begin the countdown for decay to take hold. When water stagnates in a medium, it loses oxygen, creating anaerobic conditions that foster the growth of harmful microorganisms like bacteria and fungi, which can produce toxins and disease vectors. Thigmomorphogenesis, the process by which plants respond to mechanical stimuli like touch by altering their growth and development, results in significant morphological changes to improve survival against mechanical perturbations. This complex response involves sensing touch and initiating physiological and genetic responses, leading to changes in form and structure over days or weeks. The process is triggered by physical forces such as wind, rain, or touch. Plants adapt to these stimuli by changing their shape and structure, which may include slower growth, thickened stems, or altered leaf development. Plants possess sophisticated mechanisms to detect even subtle mechanical stimuli and initiate responses. A variety of molecules, including calcium ions, jasmonates, ethylene, and nitric oxide, are involved in signaling these mechanical inputs. Touch can induce the expression of genes that encode proteins for calcium sensing, cell wall modification, and defense mechanisms. A plant exposed to constant wind may become shorter and sturdier. A plant that is touched frequently might grow more slowly to conserve energy and develop thicker cell walls. These changes increase a plant's resilience and ability to survive in harsh environments. Let's get Thiggy with it.

Vamos en la semana 12 y esperando con ansias que el 2022 sea bn prospero..!! jejeje

What do you think about the vidéo ??

I had a good week. Been cutting back on the nutrients and I’ve been adding some unsulphured black strap molasses into my mix. Hoping it helps the microorganisms in the soil.

Bit of amber, its time! The buds are really thick!! 66gr wet, not a lot... After 3 days cut and dry, 17gr, in a jar +58% humidity pack Curing 2 days = very nutty and woody smell. The strong freshy pine kinda smell/taste ebbed away... She feels just right smoking

Week 3 - Day 2: Id say she's about done stretching I'll see in the next few days, I can tell the plant is diverting more energy to creating bud sites. I absolutely cannot wait these buds are gonna be sum chunkers. Very tight internodal spacing which I like I am not too worried about budrot, since I can keep humidity fairly low and plenty of air flow. My only issue is it's getting so big that my light isn't touching to the bottom of the canopy haha. I defoliated pretty heavily (no more than 30% on day 1 of week 3) I am thinking of letting it bounce back then I'm going to do one more strip of the bottom leaves and bud sites. I noticed I missed a few. But I'm gonna strip the bottom 1/3 bc no way my light will reach there. So far very happy! Day 3: Looking so good, I stripped the bottom 1/3 of the plant removed 99% of the fan leaves and smalls/larf down there. Going to be the last time I do so, I am a tad bit worried as I just stripped a good bit of leaves 3 days ago, but I felt it wasn't enough and had to go back in on it before it got to into mid flower. Fingers crossed 🤞 hoping for the best. So far I'm so happy with this grow, definently my best yet! Day 6 : Looking so freaking nice. Already getting Frost on some of the sugar leaves here on week 3. I have a feeling it's gonna be a frost monster. Hopefully a great washer 🙏 The top nugs are looking more "tight and dense" I'm thinking because it's a bit intense close to the light. I'm gonna lower maybe another inch or 2 see what it does. The buds lower have long luscious healthy hairs still a tight structure but already looking very beautiful.

Pretty Much Done