@ 1.3-1.5 kPa

Hey folks, I'm finally back at it again. It took me a while for a couple of reasons: 1) I usually only grow in the winter. 2) I completely revamped my grow room after the issues I ran into with the last setup. 3) It took me a while to brainstorm exactly what I wanted to do. I bought these seeds from D.C. Seeds and was very pleased with the experience. I'm very happy to give business to a fellow American and Veteran. I've only ever purchased seeds from the UK in the past and that experience has been "dodgy" to say the least (not the vendors fault, but the transit). I've only ever grown photo's, but chose to go with all auto's moving forward. After calculating the intensity of my current light, with it being on a 20/4 rotation I'm very close to hitting 40 moles per day, at least directly under the light. It doesn't quite cover my 2' x 5' trellis. I'll eventually upgrade my light, but auto's should get me the best bang for my buck with this light. Also, I spent a pretty penny building this new grow room. The other obvious reason for growing auto's is their shorter seed to harvest time. I've got a small grow area, and never plan on expanding. Theoretically, auto's will allow me to produce the most out of my room. A few things about my grow room: 1) I lined the whole closet with 1/2" plywood and put that piece of ply the air intake/outtake/power as the divider between each side of the closet 2) The grow room itself has ply on all wall surfaces so I could mount stuff to it and paint it 3) The other side of the closet is my storage/prep/power distribution/etc. area. Maybe I'll take a pic one of these days 4) My last grow my carbon filter/fan was venting into the other side of the closet. This created a headache for a number of reasons. I tapped a 4" hole through the floor and am now venting into my crawl space below the house. 5) I moved to bubbleponics to speed up my grows even more. I will be removing the drip system once the roots hit the water in the res. 6) The larger res. will hopefully make my life much easier. Late in the last grow I could only fit 3 gallons of water in the bucket and that sucker was pounding down at least a gallon a day. That required too much micro-managing for me (both ph and refills). 7) I no longer have a fixed trellis with chicken wire. The trellis is held in place by dowels that I can pull out by hand. The short sides of the trellis have hinges on the bottom, so I can fold it and pull it out easy-mode. Lastly, I'll be using string for the trellis so come harvest all I have to do is cut the string instead of dealing with trying not to destroy buds pulling them through chicken wire (it takes forever). 8) I built a light diffuser on the other side of the air intake 9) My res. is on a motorcycle lift I'm using a drill to move up and down I have now started using Jack's as my primary nutes. They tell you the full break-down of each macro and micro nute, giving me more control and understanding. I think House & Garden is a good product, but when stuff goes bad it's more difficult to troubleshoot when you have no idea what each piece of their full lineup contains. I'm assuming it's kind of a proprietary type thing, which I understand, but knowledge is power. I am still using their Drip Clean (while the bubbler is going) and Roots Excelurator Silver, both excellent products. I'm still using Hydroguard, and will FOREVER. I'm a true believer now of why Hydroguard is necessary for any hydro application, IMO. I also purchased water soluble fulvic acid, but have decided not to use it for this grow....or at least while the bubbler is going (I'll elaborate below). Ok...now that all that is out of the way.... I really wanted to use my well water instead of R/O to make my life easier. Soooo....I filled up my res., and put two seeds in the system immediately. Nothing happened after 1 1/2 weeks. I finally opened up the cubes and saw that the beans had popped, but it looked like maybe I drowned them, or they ddin't grow straight up or something. For round two, I didn't change the water out, and decided to soak the beans for 24 hours in R/O water first. I had the exact same problem. I'm still not really sure what happend, but I suspect it was the well water. My PPMs were sitting at ~500 with the well water, which was probably too spicy for the beans just starting. Also, my well water is questionable (even though it's at 165ppm), but I won't elaborate further....it's a long ass story and I've spent an absurd amount of money on it. Lastly, I did put the Fulvic acid in, and it was very messy. I really want to avoid having to clean my res. Once the roots get big it will be a real pain in the ass to clean. I'm leaning towards not using the Fulvic acid this grow just to see how things go. I had 10 beans total of the Sour Apple and have already ruined 4. So here's hoping third times the charm. So, I went back to my tried and true method: 0) R/O water for everything. Ditching the well water idea. 1) Soak beans in R/O water for 24 hours 2) Paper towel method between plates on a heating mat 3) Once the roots pop, I place them pointed down in the hole of the rockwool cube 4) Hand water once a day by dipping the cube in the pre-mix of 1/4 strength Jack's and everything else I've listed above. This put my PPMs at 300...a way more reasonable value for starts. It's been exactly 7 days since I followed the above. It's probably hard to see but the cotyledons came up, and multiple roots have come out the bottom of the cubes....way faster than I've ever seen since I started growing. That means even though I'm doing my old process this already shaved at least a week off of when I'd normally put it in my bucket in the past.

Changes again, this time it is what it is. Whatever comes out, in the end, is better than nothing. So I constructed a light board and have attached 120watts of CFL bulbs to this board so that it can surround the plants at a close distance. There is still more 2700k spectrum to it than 6500k, but it was either full 2700k or this. I have also added a fan and humidifier I got from a friend. I call it the moonball. So for +- 4 hours a day the plants will be in direct sun, then after they will go back into the moonball for the remaining 14 hours. Then for the very first time, and a new concept to me, I have started doing L.S.T. Excited about this, as I have seen many plants done in this technique and it always did make me curious as to how it is done. Now I will get to see it for my very own eyes and my own plants :) Hopefully, I am doing it, right? suggestions are welcomed, I am learning still. #justnotgivingup

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Flower power Time 🤘🏻🎉🤘🏻 They are starting to pube up so good times ahead Keeping posting Tru the week Removed the lowest 2 branches from some plants 29/10/22 Removed the Layer of perlite and added some soil to top some Pots off also had to remove one cherry cola she looked to sickly and could not get here back healthy so 15 left 31/10/22 The Stretch is coming everything is going great so far

I started the week with watering the plants, new buds are developing nicely and they’ve got some mass since last week. I am a little worried for the plants at the edges of a groow room beacuse tey are still small and not as bushy as I hoped they would be. Day two: Yesterday’s nut feed turns out to put extra fuel to the plants and buds grew in size significantly:) upper leaves got a little purplish color which looks amazing but I hope it is not some kind of deficiency 🤘 Day three: I thought centered plants were too near to the light source so I bended every plant in a way so the light would be evenly exposed to the whole growing area and I am happy with the results so far. Hopefully it will have a final effect for the harvest quantity😺💪

Cortamos 2 de las primeras Un poco pronto en 42 días

Quinta settimana di fioritura 💪 forza bella mia,vai avanti così e fammi delle belle e grandi pannocchie 🙏🕉️💚💛❤️

So the plant went in flowering mid week 5 of veg, i flower her under optic phantom 1XL at 60% power (60watts) for the first 2 weeks Shes in pure coco with perlite I only water every 2 days as the pot is very heavy at this stage Final 3 pictures are day 5 Here i took off 6 big fanleaves already Start flower: march 4

Easy harvest

Everything going good. I only give the Holganix once a month

9/3 Shook the plants off this morning and took a few pics and did a video. Let's see if it uploads. Plants are doing good. Toasted toffy is due for another plant doctor application tonight. It seems like I'm losing lots of leaves. Looking back on my other diaries I guess it's normal. BUT I could've had pest/pathogen problems then. I'm over thinking it. Toasted toffy only needs a few more weeks. It will definitely outvrun the disease. The nugs are super dense too. The plant in the 50 is loosing leaves faster than I'd like. It is also one of the furthest along. The big leaves that turn yellow look like it's a calcium/magnesium issue. The stalk and branches are all bright green and healthy looking. So are the flowers. It could be something below the soil. I couldve been overwatering but last time I waited until it drooped. It will be fine though. I'm happy with my results so far. Not my best or biggest year but I'm going to put in the work and Mae these plants produce the best quality cannabis that im able too. Also I think plant doctor may kill insects. K bicarb with dawn does too. I've found a few dead bugs like flies and pillars. Pillars actually seem to be gone. Not many moths either. Unless I see them I'm not going to treat them for it. This is that magical time where you get to watch the plant produce those beautiful flowers. Despite some small problems I'm very grateful for what I have. I've worked hard for it. 9/4 Watered everything but the sherb pie which was still heavy with leaves yellowing. It's tied for the furthest behind in flower with the seed in the 10. I treated the toasted toffy with 1/4 gallon (4tsp/gallon) of plant doctor. I avoided flowers as much as possible and tried to just get a few leaves. I used the rest on the soil. I just wanted it to absorb a little faster. That's why I sprayed the foliage. It's not 4 days it's 14 days when tje plant doctor just leaves behind a bunch of potassium and phosphorus after it's done its job. Can't be used in a 14 day interval with copper and I think that's what treats septoria best. I dontvknow if I can use that in flower. Doesn't really matter. Things are looking good. Plant Doctor and the K bicarb seem to be doing there job effectively as long as i stick to the application times. I made a short video but didn't upload. I'll try again but I may have some medical emergencies that need to be dealt with. If not I should defoliate and tie down some event horizon branches. I thought about treating the other event horizon as well. I'm not positive it has septoria but it wouldn't hurt anything to be practice. It AT LEAST has a couple suspucuous spots. I smelled a skunk as soon as I got out of my car. It can't get in my grow but I might put out traps to catch it. We'll see how it goes. Video seems to be uploading. It's at 31% so I'll wait for it. I think I've got like four or five weeks on my toasted toffy and one event horizon and the one in the 50 that I THINK is red runtz. That's good that I'll have different plants to harvest at different times. It's seeds from here on out though. It was hard to find info on some of the strains I'm growing but they all have ONE thing in common. They are EXOTIC and they are at least MODERATELY DIFFICULT to grow. AT LEAST lol. Last year I picked the right seefs and strains and it greatly helped. Still, if these are difficult strains to grow, then I'm doing a good job. EDIT: I WAS STONED BUT IM PRETTY SURE I TREATED THE PLANT IN THE 50 WITH PLANT DOCTOR. DIDNT SPRAY BUDS. TRIED TO GET THE LEAVES THEN USED THE REST ON THE SOIL. I REMEMBER BECAUSE A STREAM ACCIDENTLY HIT A COUPLE LEAVES ON THE HUGE PLANT IN THE 10. 9/5 Sherb Pie was light and drooping. It's not to far in flower and still seemed moist yesterday with a little bit of weight. I watered it a gallon. I defoliated a little but I need to go through that plant. I have a bunch of plants that need a little work. The 50 gal seed is losing lots of leaves. I must not be feeding it enough, overwatering or maybe theres some sort of lock out. The plant looks nice and healthy. Leaves just turn yellow and die. Looked like a calcium or magnesium deficiency but i saw a septoria spot. I wouldn't think I've over feed or locked out using the small amounts of nutes I've used. It will be time to feed again soon. It's in the middle of flowering and still has leaves. I'm hoping things work out. I just have an anxiety disorder and worry too much. I'm GOING To have a great harve! I just need to keep moving forward and putting in the work. 9/6 What a fucking shitty morning. I did research on how to keep skunks out of your garden. Because I smelled it and the neighbors shot a few. Dad put traps out and it caught one. It wasn't a no spray trap so I approached it with him. Both had tarps. I kept telling him to throw it while I was distracting it bur he got a cramp and only got it over half. The half away from my garden. It's pretty far and down in a field but still. We had talked all morning about how to release it. I offered to drive their dog to take it for a walk so his alcoholic girlfriend wouldn't spiteful put the dog on its run. It wouldn't be sprayed but I made it out like it would ruin my plants. Picked dad up and got him to the bathroom. In that 30 seconds the stupid bitch grabbed the dog and brought it outside despite me YELLING "Can't you wait 5 minutes!? We've been dealing with this all morning. I heard fuck you in my head and she did it anyway. Dog ran at the skunk barking and it sprayed. Not a lot but I was fucking pissed. She's a full blown alcoholic and doesn't like me around early or the fact that my old man's 80 and house is mine. Anyway I got back and there was NO SKUNK SMELL. AT ALL! I WATERED EVERYTHING BUT SHERB PIE AND FED EVERYTHING BUT SHERB PIE. ILL FEED AND WATER THAT TOMORROW. WATERED A GALLON WITH A QUART OF FEED. Researched my strains found out they were all "difficult" to grow. One year ago to the Day I cut my first tenth planet. I got a couple close to a few weeks but the others will be later. If I can pull this off though I'll have some crazy quality! Grateful for what I have that's for sure! I doubled beastie bloom this time. We'll see how it goes.nothings uploading. I did some vids a pictures but I'll have to upload today. 9/7 I think it rained last night. I forgot to water and feed the sherb pie but I'll do it when I get back. I shook off the plants the best I could. I need to get the leaf blower out now and put it to use. Buds are swelling like crazy. GMOs are very tight flowers. Same with the event horizon. Rock hard nugs. With the gmo's I'm not worried. The were monster cropped so they have enough leaves even if some do die off. The toasted toffy only has like four weeks left. Same with the event horizon. The plant in the ten is the furthest behind but it's extremely healthy. I removed some leaves from the bottom and large fan leaves. The plant in the 50 I hope finishes before it loses all its leaves. I treated it with plant doctor and SOME people strip their plants but I don't. I'm grateful for what I've got. Won't be the biggest harvest but WHEN I make it to the finish line I will have some incredibly potent strains. I'm proud of myself to even get these to finish seeingvthe level of difficulty on cultivation. I'm trying to upload some stuff. We'll see. 9/8 Apparently it rained pretty hard last night. Took forever to go through and shake everything off and defoliate what needs it. Sherb pie is praying to the sky and almost totally purple. It's flowering so much more in the last couple days. Everything has. Even the one in the ten is stacking up! I defoliated most of what needed it and I was soaked. I noticed a branch on the middle gmo that was getting heavy and starting to break away from the trunk. It wad wobbly but I don't think there was a break un the Cambrian. I made a sling with rope (couldn't find zip ties) and I pulled it tight amd secured that branch to the tomato cage. GMO buds are hard as rocks. Everything is in overdrive. They liked that beastie bloom. I have cha ching but nothings ready for that yet I don't think. We'll the event horizon and toasted toffy might be I'll have to check. It's been beautiful today but not too hot. Lots of wind which is good. I'll upgrade supports as needed. Flowers are progressing at an amazing rate. Weather is supposed to be great the next few days. I'll keep this updated. 9/9 Had to shake the plants off. WATERED EVERYTHING BUT THE SHERB PIE WHICH WAS REALLY HEAVY. It's also lost a lot of leaves and the majority of leaves have turned purple. Toasted toffy and event horizon and red runts are pretty far into flower. I tried to take some pictures. Even the ten is blowing up! That looks like I'm going to switch to cha ching when flower gets further. Trichs are developing nicely on the ones further in flower. This year it's going to be quality over quantity. All these strains are ranked HARD to grow but have insane cannabinoid profiles and high THC %'s. So if I can keep it together for another month I'll be golden. Looking forward to it. This is the fun part. It's also the anxiety provoking part. I've learned a lot just since joining grow diaries.

MrJones Cream Mandeiran Auto XL - ViparSpectra XS2000 240W Infrared Full Spectrum LED Grow Light ´🍪⊱╮🍪╰⊰🍪 WEEKLY GOALS 🍪╰⊰´🍪⊱╮🍪 🏡Indoor - 3"x4"x8" Custom Built Grow Closet 🌞Environment - 80F and 50%Humidity - using Humidfyer as needed. 🌾LST and Defoliation - this strain likes to stretch! 🗓️Week 2 Seedlings ⚱️5-Gallon 📊6.2 PH 💧 Feeding / Using Dr. Earth Dry Organic Amendments - Home Grown & Bud / Bloom Booster 🌞ViparSpectra XS2000 240W x2 Infrared Full Spectrum LED Grow Light 🕷️ IPM - Will be using Green Cleaner" 1 OZ per Gallon, and CannControl from Mammoth alternating between products each month for Integrated Pest Management. ´🍪⊱╮🍪╰⊰🍪 PLANT UPDATES 🍪╰⊰´🍪⊱╮🍪 📝 Notes - Girls are just blowing up, they have doubled in size and started producing their second and third nodes, the leaves look perfectly healthy! The ViparSpectra XS2000's are just killing it! ╰⊰🍪╰⊰´🍪⊱╮🍪╰⊰🍪╰⊰🍪╰⊰´🍪⊱╮🍪╰⊰🍪╰⊰🍪╰⊰🍪⊱╮ 🔶Sunday 06.27.21/ Continuing feeding just H20 PHed to around 6.0/6.5 🔶Monday 06.28.21/ Plants are just doing great, no water needed for today! 🔶Tuesday 06.29.21/ Plants are looking good, the soil is still moist going to water in the morning, along with a nice top dressing! 🔶Wednesday 06.30.21/ So I topped dress with 7 TBS Dr. Earth Flower Girl and 3 TBS Dr. Earth Home Grown 🔶Thursday 07.01.21/ If you could only see how these girls are doing from the beginning of the week until now they have at least doubled in size! 🔶Friday 07.02.21/ Just watering with H20 PH - 6.2 🔶Saturday 07.03.21/ Trouble-free grow, great lights these ViperSpectra XS-2000 they run so cool for the amount of light they put out! ╰⊰🍪╰⊰´🍪⊱╮🍪╰⊰🍪╰⊰🍪╰⊰´🍪⊱╮🍪╰⊰🍪╰⊰🍪╰⊰🍪⊱╮ Cream Mandarine XL Auto®️ Information Tall-stemmed auto-flowering strain. This high-yielding 4th generation auto-flowering strain is the resulting hybrid from the cross between selected specimens of our Cream Mandarine Auto®️ (SWS29)) and a Super Tai’98 elite clone. The genetic coming from the Super Tai’98 elite clone contributes with interesting Sativa characteristics to this hybrid, such as bigger size, but also subtle aromatic and spicy tones with hints of wood and nuts. The so much appreciated Cream Mandarine Auto®️ genetic contributes with traits from the Indica side, such as high flower and resin production, but also sweet and fresh aromas with tones of citric fruits of the mandarin orange type. DATA SHEET Variety SWS55 Indica: 35% / Sativa: 63,4% / Ruderalis: 1,6% THC: 18-23% · CBD: 0,6% Indoor Yield: 450-650 g/m2 Outdoor Yield: 50-300 g/plant Indoor/Outdoor Harvest: 9 weeks from germination Height: 110-150 cm

2nd net is up. Early bud formations are promising. holding up to the extremes pretty well, some leaves taking minor damage, but overall, she is holding up, gave her 1 night at 50F see how she would react, stressful. Not advised as it messes with her metabolism, but I want to see if it triggers any anthocyanin response. Love to see her purp up but no signs yet. My homework. Rubisco regeneration is intrinsically linked to nitrogen supply because Rubisco is a major sink for nitrogen in plants, typically accounting for 15% to over 25% of total leaf nitrogen. The regeneration phase itself consumes nitrogen through the synthesis of the Rubisco enzyme and associated proteins (like Rubisco activase), and overall nitrogen status heavily influences the efficiency of RuBP regeneration.Structural Component: Nitrogen is an essential building block for all proteins, and the sheer abundance of the Rubisco protein makes it the single largest storage of nitrogen in the leaf. Synthesis and Activity: Adequate nitrogen supply is crucial for the synthesis and maintenance of sufficient Rubisco enzyme and Rubisco activase (Rca), the regulatory protein responsible for maintaining Rubisco's active state. Nitrogen deficiency leads to a decrease in the content and activity of both Rubisco and Rca, which in turn limits the maximum carboxylation rate, Vmax, and the rate of RuBP regeneration Jmax, thus reducing overall photosynthetic capacity. Nitrogen Storage and Remobilization: Rubisco can act as a temporary nitrogen storage protein, which is degraded to remobilize nitrogen to other growing parts of the plant, especially under conditions of nitrogen deficiency or senescence. Nitrogen Use Efficiency (NUE): The allocation of nitrogen to Rubisco is a key determinant of a plant's photosynthetic nitrogen use efficiency (PNUE). In high-nitrogen conditions, plants may accumulate a surplus of Rubisco, which may not be fully activated, leading to a lower PNUE. Optimizing the amount and activity of Rubisco relative to nitrogen availability is a target for improving crop NUE. Photorespiration and Nitrogen Metabolism: Nitrogen metabolism is also linked to the photorespiration pathway (which competes with carboxylation at the Rubisco active site), particularly in the reassimilation of ammonia released during the process. To increase RuBisCO regeneration, which refers to the process of forming the CO2 acceptor molecule Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate (RuBP) during photosynthesis, the primary methods involve optimizing the levels and activity of Rubisco activase (Rca) and enhancing the performance of other Calvin-Benson-Bassham (CBB) cycle enzymes. Biochemical and Environmental Approaches: Optimize Rubisco Activase (Rca) activity: Rca is a crucial chaperone protein that removes inhibitory sugar phosphates, such as CA1P (2-carboxy-D-arabinitol 1-phosphate), from the Rubisco active site, thus maintaining its catalytic competence. •Ensure optimal light conditions: Rca is light-activated via the chloroplast's redox status. Adequate light intensity ensures Rca can effectively maintain Rubisco in its active, carbamylated state. •Maintain optimal temperature: Rca is highly temperature-sensitive and can become unstable at moderately high temperatures (e.g., above 35°C/95F° in many C3 plants), which decreases its ability to activate Rubisco. Maintaining temperatures within the optimal range for a specific plant species is important. •Optimize Mg2+ concentration: Mg2+ is a key cofactor for both Rubisco carbamylation and Rca activity. In the light, Mg2+ concentration in the chloroplast stroma increases, promoting activation. •Manage ATP/ADP ratio: Rca activity depends on ATP hydrolysis and is inhibited by ADP. Conditions that maintain a high ATP/ADP ratio in the chloroplast stroma favor Rca activity. Enhance Calvin-Benson-Bassham (CBB) cycle enzyme activity: The overall rate of RuBP regeneration can be limited by other enzymes in the cycle. •Increase SBPase activity: Sedoheptulose-1,7-bisphosphatase (SBPase) is a key regulatory enzyme in the regeneration pathway, and increasing its activity can enhance RuBP regeneration and overall photosynthesis. •Optimize other enzymes: Overexpression of other CBB cycle enzymes such as fructose-1,6-bisphosphate aldolase (FBA) and triose phosphate isomerase (TPI) can also help to balance the metabolic flux and improve RuBP regeneration capacity. Magnesium ions, Mg2+, are specifically required for Rubisco activation because the cation plays a critical structural and chemical role in forming the active site: A specific lysine residue in the active site must be carbamylated by a CO2 molecule to activate the enzyme. The resulting negatively charged carbamyl group then facilitates the binding of the positively charged Mg2+ion. While other divalent metal ions like Mn2+ can bind to Rubisco, they alter the enzyme's substrate specificity and lead to dramatically lower activity or a higher rate of the non-productive oxygenation reaction compared to Mg2+, making them biologically unfavorable in the context of efficient carbon fixation. The concentration of Mg2+ in the chloroplast stroma naturally increases in the light due to ion potential balancing during ATP synthesis, providing a physiological mechanism to ensure the enzyme is activated when photosynthesis is possible. At the center of the porphyrin ring, nestled within its nitrogen atoms, is a Magnesium ion (Mg2+). This magnesium ion is crucial for the function of chlorophyll, and without it, the pigment cannot effectively capture and transfer light energy. Mg acts as a cofactor: Mg2+ binds to Rubisco after an activator CO2 molecule, forming a catalytically competent complex (Enzyme-CO2-Mg2+). High light + CO2) increases demand: Under high light (60 DLI is a very high intensity, potentially saturating) and high CO2, the plant's capacity for photosynthesis is high, and thus the demand for activated Rubisco and the necessary Mg2+ cofactor increases. Mg deficiency becomes limiting: If Mg2+ is deficient under these conditions, the higher levels of Rubisco and Rubisco activase produced cannot be fully activated, leading to lower photosynthetic rates and potential photo-oxidative damage. Optimal range: Studies show that adequate Mg2+ application can enhance Rubisco activation and stabilize net photosynthetic rates under stress conditions, but the required concentration is specific to the experimental setup. Monitoring is key: The most effective approach in a controlled environment is to monitor the plant's physiological responses e.g., leaf Mg2+ concentration, photosynthetic rate, Rubisco activation state, and adjust the nutrient solution/fertilizer to maintain adequate levels, rather than supplementing a fixed "extra" amount. In practice, this means ensuring that Mg2+ is not a limiting factor in the plant's standard nutrient solution when pushing the limits with high light and CO2. Applying Mg2+ through foliar spray is beneficial to Rubisco regeneration, particularly in alleviating the negative effects of magnesium (Mg) deficiency and high-temperature stress (HTS). While Mg can be leached from soil, within the plant it is considered a mobile nutrient, particularly in the phloem. Foliar-applied Mg is quickly absorbed by the leaves and can be translocate to other plant parts, including new growth and sink organs. Foliar application of: NATURES VERY OWN MgSO4 @ 15.0g L-1 in a spray bottle. Foliar sprays are often recommended as a rapid rescue measure for existing deficiencies or as a supplement during critical growth stages, when demand for Mg is high. Application in the early morning or late evening can improve absorption and prevent leaf burn. The starting point [of creativity] is curiosity: pondering why the default exists in the first place. We’re driven to question defaults when we experience vuja de, the opposite of déjà vu. Déjà vu occurs when we encounter something new, but it feels as if we’ve seen it before. Vuja de is the reverse—we face something familiar, but we see it with a fresh perspective that enables us to gain new insights into old problems. Come walk in the enchanted forest.

Eccoci di nuovo qui!!! Super eccitato per questa nuova collab con Sweet Seeds, team davvero al top, che mi ha dato l’opportunità di testare questa nuova genetica e di condividere i progressi con tutti voi!!! Come sempre partiamo nei bicchieri per poi travasare.. Questa volta verrà svolto tutto sotto la Lumatek Zeus 465 ProC, mi aspetto molto da questo ciclo!! Settimana WOW!!! Grazie a tutti per il supporto ❤️🍀🔥

The pure Ice cream clone has been growing nicely and doing her thing. I did move her back to the SE3000 tent. She is steady growing, and likely needs a bigger potter very soon. Everything has been going great. Plus the other clone finally started to grow. It is showing deformities, but it is growing now. Thank you Spider Farmer, and Pure Instinto Seeds. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

Start of week three looks like everything is good so far Topped one ( less leafy one on the left) today feb17th first time topping might do the other one in few days not sure yet if I want to just let it grow nat Day 19 Feb 19 I topped the other one on the right bushy one

Week 4: Day 21 The stretch is finally over and the ladies have been successfully defoliated. All energy is now being put into trichome production and sensing up. Even the larger fan leaves are developing trichomes. Golden adding more nutrients to the soil - Bat guano at 15ml per liter of soil. Harvest is getting closer by the day.

Hello people. It's a very cool variety, delicious strong, and all covered with crystals, even on large leaves. ...................................

This has been a week of consequential stretch to stress the least! Some girls are about done stacking inches and some still got about a week more worth of elongating. Took a calculated risk heavily defoliating and lollipopping them mid-stretch which they seem to have withstood with no issues whatsoever. I’m starting to smell fruit also. Reminds me of my old neighbourhood’s Jamba Juice aroma that lingered around the block in the morning when you knew they were busy squeezing those tropical fruits by the carload!