Welcome: thanks for dropping by. Drop a like so I know you came so I can view your diaries, if you what to of course. Was able to go full steam ahead with this 1. And apply the 3 recommend nutrients to be used for seedlings. La Calavera is the exact same formula as Voodoo Juice. How can this be you ask..(As it would be copyright), well it would be if it wasn't for the fact that these ppl, (Terra Power), are the ones who own and hold the pattens to voodoo juice, tarantula and Piranha, which made AN famous. They decided to break away and all the formulas they made for AN over the years they taken 90% of them and used modern day research with autos/ruderails in mind. Their base nutes alone will blow you away. Have a look at their claims. Led-grower.eu/terra-power/. As for the plant, new strain, new nutes, new whole entire set up with a 90% controlled environment, I say 90% cause I'm waiting to get the air exchange and AC installed in my grow room. Soon it'll be 100% be able to bring temp up as high as 28c and as low as 17c. Atm I can control RH. I can bring it up to 70 by just closing my door/tent windows and then by adding a damp towel and after a few days of the grow room door closed the RH will go up to 70+% and I'll only open the door every couple hours to swap out air until my air exchanger is installed. I can get the RH as low as 35% with a full tent 30 with 1 or 2 plants. So, hoping this time I can grow top A grade bud, as the last stuff was nice my 1st harvest was C grade weed. Was still half decent though. The others were B grade for sure. Hoping this time with the money I'm going to be putting in electricity it's goman be A grade. As I'll be looking at nearly 1kwh every 2hrs. That's 7e a day when the dehuimifier will be running when in flower. But as I'm vegging everything in a 70x70 with 1 light I'll get 4-5 wks for only having to pay 80cents a day. And I'll have great high RH. And as soon as some start to flower they'll be put in the 150x150 and I'll bring the RH in the room down but it'll still stay high in the 70x70 once I have the windows sealed up. If I can't get the RH below 45-55% for pre flower I'll have lots of room in the 150x150 to put the dehumidifier in and bring down the tents RH while keeping the Rooms RH high for the small tent. I'll just run the intake fan for the 150x150 from outside the grow room up in to the attic which the RH is 50% so air intake from the room will be too high for the big tent to use. 30/4/22 Veg started: first signs of life popped up today. Going to keep em on root stims and enzymes for now. Haven't fed since planted so will water with .1 300ppm today. All the EC comes from La Sirena. Makes Will just sit back for now and let em do their thing hopefully in 48hrs will have some leafs or shell pushing up. She's growing straight up. So for now, it's just watching for any signs, (such as browning of the stem, bent stems and any early on diseases if any will hamper the plants formation of her 1st 2 fan leafs. You wanna see them no later than 24-48hrs after she pops her head up out of the ground). 1/5/22 VD 2 really at to coming on. Went from .5 to nearly 3cm. 4/5/22 Growing really well. Her first 3 days she put on 7cm her 3rd she put on 4cm of them 7. She hasn't grown up today but her face has filled out, another 2 days I reckon before she splits. 6/5/22 So, it's begun. I've created a negative pressure environment, 1st time, let's see if it makes an impact. On wk 3 onwards I'll be running the intake extraction for 5mins every 30mins and I'll have 2 co2 bags up. If the RH becomes a problem or temp I'll put the extraction/intake back on 100% of the time. The extraction fan/intake is set at a ratio of 2 to 1. (100% extraction 50% intake) making a negative pressure environment, best way to show you have done this, the walls in your tent should bow in lightly Same Day. Okay, so this my last update. Going to run fans the same right up until flower and then I'll be sealing up my tent and adding 2 co2 bags. And will be adding a dehuimifier and setting at 45% And it checks every 30mins and if it's gone up it'll turn back on and bring down to 45 or set RH, so no co2 will escape. The temp will be bordering 30-33c and then when they go into their rest window they'll be transferred to to a negative pressure environment with low temps and 45-50%RH. I'll only be able to do this for the 3 weeks of pre flower. And maybe some more, it depends how hard the dehuimifier will be working, but i want dense buds and only way to improve that is by introducing Co2 and then a negative pressure cold environment for terps. Then I'll be putting them back into full negative pressure environment and the Co2 will be useless, again all depends how it's gonna affect my bottom line. That and I only have 2 intake fans. I'll be going into detail about my Co2 adventures the week before I'll be prepping them to be able to withstand high temps, so I'll gradually bring up the temps the last wk of veg 28c max and that way when I push it to 30-32c in pre flower she won't stress as much in the high temps as they'll be in a sealed tent for 18hrs in 30-32c I'll have the dehuimifier in the sealed tent and will be set at 45% And will keep it in that range for all of pre flower and then I'll put it back on to negative pressure environment 21c in the dark window and after all plants come out of pre flower Co2 will be left in the tent but will be useless without a sealed tent/grow room. Thanks for reading, this will be the last update for this week other than pics. gottagrowsometime

Added yellow sticky fly traps to all cubes as a preventative measure to avoid infestation of fungus gnats. So far none have been spotted. Defoliated and did a little more LST to all the plants to open up the center and give more light to lower shoots. Blue Dream 3 and Chemdawg 3 started showing some discoloration on the leaves (yellowing around the veins) and also the leaf tips curling down. Did some research and came up with this... Possible diagnosis: - Yellowing around leaf veins could be a sign of Magnesium or Iron deficiency - Leaf tip curling down could be a sign of Nitrogen Toxicity. - Both could be caused by improper ph balance in water Possible solutions: - Applied Botanicare CalMag+ as a foliar feed and added some to the reservoir. CalMag+ contains Calcium, Magnesium and Iron. - Diluted nutrients in reservoir to lower amount of nitrogen being fed to plants. Was feeding them at 1300ppm, lowered it to 1050ppm - Tested runoff and saw it was coming out at 5.4pH so I increased the pH in the reservoir to 6.0. Now the runnoff is testing at 5.7pH, meaning that my rootzone is in the optimal range of 5.5-5.8 Well wait and see how the plants react to these slight tweaks. Hopefully we start to see a nice healthy even green again.

This was the girls last week of Veg. ❤️ I did a big defoliation, the lit in my 4x4 custom SCROG netting and started tucking and bending the tops down to fill the spaces. They were looking pretty scraggly for a day or two after the defoliation, but within a few days the screen was filling out. I have a daily routine of lights on, tuck and bend, no weaving and then just before lights out I’ll do the same. Temps were good, watering has been vigorous. They are very thirsty! Feeding about 1 1/2 gallons every feed now, the 4 gallon pots are a bit undersized but I wanted to see what could Come of These slightly taller pots, rather than the wider regular sized pots. Haven’t had to add humidity this week, pretty consistent around 60%. At the end of the week I changed the light cycle to a 12/12 for flowering ❤️👊🇨🇦

90x60x140 (Mars Hydro) FC-E4800 (Mars Hydro) Easy2go Aquavalve5 (Autopot) Living Soil (Demetearth) Bruce Banner (PEV Seed) Gorilla GG4 (Ganja Farmer) Cream Caramel (Sweet Seed) Gorilla Gelato (Ganja Farmer) Blueberry (00 Seed) Kalini Asia (Zamnezia) Biscotti Mintz (Barney's Farm) Blackberry Cake (Sensi Seed) Amsterdam Amnesia (Dutch Passion) Gelato Cookie (Ganja Farmer) Purple OG Punch (Ganja Farmer) Sweet ZZ (RQS) Rainbow Road (Paradise Seed) Substrat ~50L: 30L Super Light Mix Biotechnologie 18L coco 2L perlite 1,7kg lombricompost 350g guano de chauve-souris 350g Zéolithe 350g Basalte 170g guano vers de farine 170g biochar 0,7g Endomychorise glomus intraradices 0,7g Bacillus Amyloliquefaciens Paillage de luzerne alfalfa Arrosage avec 2ml/L de mélasse de canne 1x par semaine Pulvérisation avec 1% d’huile de neem

31 days into flower, I have slowly upped the cf to 1.8 since my last post, I have added a bit of Cal/Mag and upped the pk and treacle. My lights will come on as I am writing this, so we will see soon if yesterdays biggest feed to date has had any adverse effects. Video is my run off left to stand in shopvac over night. As you can see it is 'Alive' and bubbling away. What is going on does not smell like yeast or Vinegar, it smells like 'Clean fresh Compost'. So I expect the runoff is producing CO2 and Methane. CO2 is good, roots can absorb it. With the Methane there is possibly some Ethylene being produced, which may have some very positive benefits as far as plant chemistry and suppression of masculine traits? The gases bubbling off the runoff 'Soup' would not be difficult to Identify with a couple of wash bottles and a few readily available reagents. I ain't got the time, or the kit. There are definitely a few different organisms at play here as you can see different structured plaques forming on the water surface, and different foams forming with the bubbles. Just took photo's, everything looks good except Blue Sherbalato, Developed a kink in top leaf, that could be a couple of things, I shall work it out. (highered light a bit, dropped c/f, pushed cola away from light centre, and I shall let this pot dry out a touch, it has been happy till now.) Every thing else is looking OK, all got a touch of tip burn. Canna Coco sometimes does not have enough N for grow, and almost always too much N in flower so I expect a bit of tip burn especially in high calyx to leaf hybrids. The plants are using around 2 litres of water + food per day with a slight + or - on c/f with first runoff. Ph going in at 5 to 5.5. First runoff is 6.8 I will keep watering till runoff hits 5.8 or lower so it usually takes between 3 and 4 litres of nutes. per day. Hate being this wasteful with nutes , not enough going on in the garden to use it all out there yet, so down the drain it goes. I have thought about re-circulation, if I was bigger and running clones maybe. The Blue Sherbalato has shown me I got to start treating these plants as individuals and tailor their treatment accordingly. The GTH have changed their smell, the Lemon is still there but fuel and floor polish is becoming more dominant in 3 of the plants. My plants are in 10 litres of Coco in 15 litre felt pots rolled down. Maltezerz, Orangesicle GTH 1, . plus the Scott's OG will run out of pot space so I will top them up to the 15 litre. Got to make decisions on the cuts of these plants soon. I hate culling plants before the parent has finished its cycle.

Shes Excellency the Future #1®️ The buds are normal density, has the smell and aroma of grapes, is very sugary and sticky After drying I will add pictures and comment on the effect This breed of Anesia is a true masterpiece💚

The girls have been very busy making golf balls this week! The cookies are also starting to frost up 🤗 At the beginning of the week there was not much to do, the girls had stopped stretching and were settled in. In my 2x4 tent, all I had to do was tuck fold the leaves to open up the bud sites. I basically did the same for my big tent. Simply moved some leaves from blocking sites, and plucked just a few that were rather large. They are still needing to be watered every 72 hours or so. I have been keeping to a feed, water, feed schedule now that we are into flower. I just started to notice that some of the tops are showing some nutrient burn, just a little, and not every plant. This tells me I have hit their limit with the nutrients, somewhere between 700 and 750 ppm. The last watering I did, I watered to about 10% runoff, trying to make sure that there are no salt or mineral buildup that can cause lockout or other issues. At the end of the week, day 21, I defoliated both tents, not too much, but enough to open up the bottom growth a bit. Also tidied up the lower portion below the trellis, as this just wastes energy and yield from the main colas in the long run. No real issues or problems so far, Happy Gardening Folks! 🇨🇦👊❤️😎💨

So, thinking this is the first day of week5, but I’m not sure. 📢🗣️ I think this is ‘flowering’ but I’m not sure; comments to help me define ‘flowering’ would be appreciated, please judge my photos and let me know! 📢🗣️ I made a video of my PH reader and a photo. Comments with help for that would also be appreciated, is the PH really over 9 (my readers max) due to calcium buildup up, or is the humus lombrico giving a false reading? 500 ml distilled water (still trying to flush high calcium buildup from the local water). When the fertilizers arrive I’ll start giving her food: 9/8 200 ml bloom, 60 ml CalMag sup 10/8 250 ml filtered tap water Moved her to a different balcony that gets a little less morning sunlight 🌅 but a lot more afternoon sunlight ☀️ Tightened the first two LST yarns, added 2 more and discovered 2 more bud sites!

Die ersten 4 sind schon im 11 Liter Topf mit Bio Bizz All Mix 1 mal wöchentlich gibt es Wurmtee

Currently at 2,722 grams with stems and untrimmed. Hoping to get around 800 grams dried. Prior to harvest I run lights for 48hrs

So think by far the best of the bunch is one pheno of b-45. Insane structure, just the right amount of internodal spacing, huge nugs definitely bigger than golf balls. Tons of frost and very nice kush/citrus terps. Not to mention deep purple colours on the buds and the leaves despite not lowering the temps. Very curious to see what she will bring to the scales but I’m pretty sure she’s above 120g. True winner. Got her clones going and hope the clones will maintain the quality despite stress. Had some quality deterioration happen for some clones, but did my share of mistakes and learned some lessons. I am disappointed sa far in blue Zushi form Dutch passion, very different plants. One pheno is completely like purple lemonade form fastbuds. Terps are 1:1. I like the green leaves, purple buds combo. But it’s definitely not a skittles smell. Have a great Easter everyone. Cheers

Hey everybody. Day 41. I have been really busy, the garden has gotten out of hands. Tomorrow I will start flowering stage. Just need to go get the flowering nutes. Still havent gotten the hydroguard, my creditcard is locked so cant order shit now. But they still growing and not dead so I take it so that they can still be saved. Hope that they wont freak at the lights swap and scrog training. All the best, yours truely, MrPlow! Day 42. Today was a BUSY day. It was the last chance to clean the rez. I was a bit worried to put the net over them because it means there will not be a chance to clean them in any case, and there has been a battle with the algae and other root issues but if I want to grow them in scrog then now it is time. And I am a Scrog guy all the way, balls deep. And the shitty thing is that I still dont have the Hydroguard, BUT I bought every freaking root product Advanced Nutriets has ever made and added them to rez, hope that can keep them alive another 60 days. It has to work, I like the Scrog style so much im willing to take the risk of not cleaning the buckets until harvest. I think its a must when growing weed, if you are a commercial grower, it gives you the possibility to use every inch of the tent efficiently. And today was the time to start the flower phase as well. 42 down, 60 to go. ;) thanks for reading. Please leave a comment if you got improvement ideas or advices or any questions! Have a great day fellas! Plow! ;)

My nine Week 7 flowers are thriving under the new GrowPro Solutions under-canopy lights. The lights have really brought out some amazing colors in the buds. It's so cool to see how much they've changed in just a day! I'm excited to see how they develop even more in the coming weeks

Day 43-49 A lot of them are showing signs of going into bloom. Doing their stretch before bloom, so they need more nitrogen before they're done stretching. My own unbiased opinions about deep water culture.I love it.It's got the precision I need and control. If you like something more relaxed, living soil is your thing, but this is mine.I'm enjoying it.Everything's growing people have already done the research.I just gotta apply it.

420Fastbuds FBT2312/Week5 What up grow fam. Sorry for the late weekly update but was having some technical difficulties. This week has been eventful to say the least. My heater went out letting my Temps drop to high 40'f for a night or two and wow did the plants tell me they're angry. Definitely starting to bounce back but just goes to show the reselants of Fastbuds genetics. I lollipoped and did one more defoliation this week so hopefully flower stage will be smooth sailing. All in all Happy Growing

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Vamos familia, actualizamos la 4 semana de floración de estas Gelato Olandese de Dutchfem Seeds . Y es que hasta aquí todo va correcto , están enormes, tienen un buen color, se ven sanas, y van progresando las flores adecuadamente. La alimentación de Agrobeta la están aceptando muy bien , ya se las puede apreciar. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Las maximas de temperatura no superan los 26 grados y las mínimas no bajan 20, así que no me puedo quejar. Los niveles de humedad también son los correctos van entre 50%/65% de humedad relativa. Por supuesto el Ph lo estamos dejando alrededor de 6. Hasta aquí es todo, buenos humos 💨💨💨.

Hey guys, Like I said last week, this week was another cold rainy week. Discoverd some budrot on my Shamans, but not mayor problems. Therefore I decided to Harvest my Shamans at the end of this week. Knowing that in the upcomming weeks it will get even more colder, more rain and more bud rot. Luckly I only gave them water and one time with Humic-Blast and enzym+. Thats not a proper flush but better then full nutrients in the soil/plant. If it wasn't for the colder climate, i would had let them flower for another 1 to 2 weeks because they really started to thicken and the flowers were swelling. But at the end i rather have smokable buds then budrot buds,,, Weather for the upcomming week is 70% to 92% rain with 11-14 degrees Celcius and at night even 7-9 celcius. So there is no point by risking all of my buds to rot, in hope for some swelling which may never come with this colds The Critical Kushes where in their 4th week of flowering, going into the 5th. I have no other choice to keep them at least for another 2-4 weeks, lets see how it goes. I don't mind spending nutrients on maybe a lost cost. Somehow GD minimalize the videos after putting 10pictures on the diary, Just click on the next picture and click on the right arrow to go to the videos. See yall next week :)