On day 1 the reservoirs PH is steady at 6.2. The rez ppm is 271.

Flush is on! A gallon a day each of pH’ed tap water for the next week and a half to 2 weeks. Fall colors galore incoming! One is already going mad purple as I started it on the flush a bit earlier.

Jan17th added videos. Just given them all a easy week. Gonna be starting to keep an eye on these , but still in cruise control for the most part. Still working on the space but have the in fan and out delt with now and dehumidifier and ac sorted so 👍🏻👍🏻🤞🏻🤞🏻 we shall see how the environment here acts now . Tested the ec and ph after a watering and they both were OK with what was going in. But im really not in any rush ,still getting situated with everything. Atleast weve got that stuff sorted Smells insane tho can't wait to see how it's finished taste turns out. As always appreciate anyone that took time to check out any of my grows, and appreciate any feedback or suggestions!! Best of luck!!

W9.Day.1(59) As the ninth week of flowering arrives, my plants are doing quite well. The younger one has recovered from her injuries and has produced a plethora of buds from her seven nodes. It seems I'm on track to set a new personal record for the stem width at the base - currently, it measures 33 millimeters. My plan is to see these plants through 70 to 77 days of flowering. W9.Day.3(61) Today's music program features rave and Sanskrit. Removed some old root leaves that covers less potent colas. Sending greetings to @chamomile (https://growdiaries.com/grower/chamomile) from week nine of Grow and week two of the Challenge )) W9.Day.4(62) This week's revelation has been the attempt to change the approach to watering and nutrient application by moving away from the recommended Advanced Nutrients program to mixing all types of nutrients at a lower concentration until the end of the grow (not considering the flushing of course). So far, everything is working, and if it continues this way, it opens the path for me to fully automate the watering cycle throughout the entire grow along with nutrient application. The end goal is one container for nutrients, one connection to the water supply system, and one drainage. The ultimate aim is an automated grow. P.S. There are already plans for a robotic LST ))).

Legend Timestamp: 📅 Measures: 🛠️ Water: 🌊 Actions: 💼 Thoughts: 🧠 Events: 🚀 ________________________________ 📅 D63/V56 - 17/01/24 🛠️ 🌊 Flushing 💼 Added CO2 dispenser system 🧠 🚀 ________________________________ 📅 D64/V57 - 18/01/24 🛠️ EC: 0.9 pH 7.2 🌊 Added new res with CalMag, Bloom A-B, Some B-52 and Bud Candy. Added also RhHino Skin and Voodo Juice 🧠 pH is still too high, evaluate to use pH- 🚀 ________________________________ 📅 D65/V58 - 19/01/24 🛠️ EC: 0.8 pH 7.4 🌊 🧠 🚀

Legend Timestamp: 📅 Measures: 🛠️ Water: 🌊 Actions: 💼 Thoughts: 🧠 Events: 🚀 ________________________________ 📅 D63/V56 - 17/01/24 🛠️ 🌊 Flushing 💼 Added CO2 dispenser system 🧠 🚀 ________________________________ 📅 D64/V57 - 18/01/24 🛠️ EC: 0.9 pH 7.2 🌊 Added new res with CalMag, Bloom A-B, Some B-52 and Bud Candy. Added also RhHino Skin and Voodo Juice 🧠 pH is still too high, evaluate to use pH- 🚀 ________________________________ 📅 D65/V58 - 19/01/24 🛠️ EC: 0.8 pH 7.4 🌊 🧠 🚀

Espero el apoyo de la comunidad para ganar el premio de TrolMaster 🤞🤞🤞

Flush is on! A gallon a day each of pH’ed tap water for the next week and a half to 2 weeks. Fall colors galore incoming! One is already going mad purple as I started it on the flush a bit earlier.

I Topped Dressed 5 Tbs of 2-8-4 & 2.5 Tbs of 4-4-4 & Feed 1 Tbs of Molasses in 1 Gallon water Feed

Cold snap past few days and my furnace is struggling to keep up, day temps around 75 F night 65 Video is overexposed, shows size difference between a 5 gal fiber pot and 10 gal SIP. 2/3 of the fiber pots did not stretch well, can see the one that did stretch in the back hiding.

Purple punch is nuts, super frosty. Even some fan leaves are covered with tricomes. I believe I will flush it very soon, maybe in the next watering. Gorilla punch beautiful plant with some purple nugs. They are getting really fat Mimosa cake still getting more and more white pistils and I hopping the nugs get fat 🙏🏼

Vanilla ice would be jealous of this plant.

The 2 Mixed seeds are well ahead and I can tell they have 2 weeks left. I hope they keep progressing and im gonna keep treating them like they are my Lily or Rose plant. Happy 2024 for all the real ones

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover White clover Red Clover Yellow Clover Sweet Basil Chamomile Borage Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Empezamos la semana cambiando los nutrientes al observar ya unos pequeños pistilos o estigmas , en definitiva, empezaron a mostrar tímidamente el sexo. Empiezo con poco y iré subiendo la dosis hasta 4ml/L hasta que vuelva a cambiar de nutrientes. Creo observar del Lumatek ATSpro que le fataria un punto de luz en el centro del panel. Por lo general con otras luminarias la planta del medio me solia crecer mucho mejor y esta vez está quedando retrasada. Seguiré cultivando y si me sigue pasando lo mismo entonces no tendré ninguna duda, por ahora solo son conjeturas, xd De lo anterior rectifico , tengo que decir que pasados dos dias lo estoy viendo diferente, la del medio parece que sigue por buen camino, ahora apenas notaria la diferencia. La semana anterior, la sexta, se les hizo una segunda pulverización con dosis alta de 3ml/L con spiderbloom ( "fitofortificante de impacto muy rápido") pero de nada sirvió, durante esta semana subió la temperatura a 30ºC un par de dias y las arañas salieron a pegarse el gran festín. Una vez constatada la existencia de araña roja correteando por el envés de las hojas solo toca desinfectar bién el armario, lavarlas a todas una a una con agua corriente para arrastrar el máximo de arañitas y una vez secas darles con algun acaricida químico. De no hacerlo ahora me seria imposible más adelante y no tengo ningunas ganas de dejar perder este cultivo. No soy partidario de lo químico pero menos de dejarlas perder.

This week I have mostly been smoking, Venom OG. The original plan was to create a environmental cycle that would exhaust the tent of all moisture every 2-3 days, bacteria requires moisture be present as part of its trinity. Bugs also mostly need top 2-3 inches of soil to reproduce eggs. Found it a problem once the canopy developed with such a large pot, I felt moisture sat too long where air could not reach it, eventually leading to stagnation or too densely packed. Added steel mesh HVAC to soil, temp control to keep soil and roots cosy and prevent the centre of the pot stagnating. Indoor air pushed through the rootzone, oxygen being a limiting factor of growth once CO2 has been elevated and along with temps. The air injected is rich in CO2 , which is gently pressurized to ooze out the filter atop the dome and spread evenly across and down 360 degree. I've been cautious with my watering, bordering on the safe side so to speak, nutrient can only uptake where water is present, by watering gently over a large area I'm spreading the 2-3 gallon over the top surface of the pot, roots will grow and develop only where they find water regularly. I may have a 100 gallon pot but if water only penetrates the top 10% of the soil, the plant can only tap as much as it has access too. Roots won't grow and develop in arid dry soil. I may possibly add drainage under pot in future, Top wick , Bottom wick. Growth has been much slower than I'd expected,there is alot of competition for minimal real estate, the clovers roots and companion plants roots will never go deeper than a few inches, I'm hoping that the slow initial growth is just due to the extreme competition for landmass to get established. Just gotta wait a bit until the Durban roots go a bit deep past where the clover roam. Purchased some predatory bugs and I've been preparing the tent for: Chrysope verte - 1250 Stratiolaelaps scimitus - 5000 Hopefully, mess these aphids up for good. There was what was starting to look like early nitrogen deficiency, the ever so slightly yellowing of the lower leafs. Possible it's caused by the root aphids, they love to suck on the chlorophyll within the leaves which can lead to the plant withdrawing existing nitrogen from other places within the plant to replenish this can give the illusion of nutrient deficiency. My ph is fine at 6.4-6.6. Quickly rectifies once fed. No aphids on or near the cannabis, companions seem to be doing the job well. Added marigolds and chamomile seeds too. Hmmmmm Added forest moss to exposed area and edges. Again one plant is showing developmental properties superior to the others. Same result as before, this will need to be tested against identical genetic clones. * Not very tall or very big but the plant has 6-7-8 internodes.... It's funny I almost feel like the plant knows the intensity that's up infront of it.... What I think is slow development, may just be building for the future..... If that makes sense.... Similar to when I was bending the plants forcing it to reevaluate what stem it decides is the "main" this can be altered based on which the plant senses is closest to light source. It needs to have the structural integrity built now for what the plant can sense vertically. Already made out at 40,000,000 moles over the 18 hours. Plant life is intelligent in that I've watched it grow to avoid obstacles, it can sense everything around it in terms of intensity, direction, wavelength composition, every single little details is known ,calculated, and planned for based on all the information the plant can sense. I've always felt that moving a light source for any reason or even a plant pot from its original normal position, not that it's going to make a huge difference but if the goal posts are always moving then how can anyone ever construct efficiently when every metric the plant uses to sense its surroundings change every day. It's super slow growth compared to what I've witnessed before but it is also the most naturally impressive symmetrical sturdy reinforced looking stems I've seen in such a young sapling which hasn't been trained or cropped. Carry on.

This week I made the decision to remove the ScrOG net because the plant has stunted growing and the leaves were droopy before and after watering . Given the fact she is an indica dominant strain, my approach to training wasn't the best.

She is so big 😍I'm not even kidding she is growing in 6L pot and. she is today 53 and 80cm tall with lots off main cola not couple over 6 main colas im immersed can't be anymore happy thanks alot too fastbud Day 54 I start too feed her with monkey bloom nutrient bloom A bloom B And I add bio heaven(bud denser)recommend by grower friend 💚

Como se puede ver al dia de la fecha (19/01) las plantas de macetas vienen creciendo con un problemita,que no sé cual es, pero las hojas algunas están tomando un color amarillo. Pensando que puede ser una carencia, le suministre 2 ml x litro de agua de oro negro de namaste, en los próximos días tendré que ver los resultados para ver si mejoran. Con respecto a la planta de la tierra, viene creciendo bien y fuerte, doble sus puntas principales para que crezca más horizontal.