The first week of Flower is just about in the books. A big week from the girls perspective, but relatively quiet from this growers point of view. On Sun., 5/16 The lights went out @ 8pm to kick off the first week of Flower. On Monday evening around 7pm they got 1 gallon each of the new nutrient mix Bloom A & B and I decided to raise the light up to 36". I wanted to give the ladies a reason to grow again...(I think they came thru.) No water or nutes on Tues. Wed., 5/19 they got another gallon each of nutes, but run-off was more than I expected, so I knew they were getting skipped Thurs. On Fri., 5/21 I lifted the pots again before watering to make a final decision and I was surprised that they were still kind of heavy. Well yes and no. It rained a lot this week and humidity was a b!tch to maintain. I had to buy a new dehumidifier to try and even things out because the small one that I can fit inside my tent just wasn't cutting it, even with the portable air conditioner. There were 3 days were I wasn't able to get the humidity lower that 80% before I was able to get the dehumidifier. I think they girls were stressed and didn't drink as much as they would have...anyway on Fri., 5/21 I gave them 1/3 gallon each of water, no nutes. I figured they'd drink that up and they'd be ready for big water today (Sat., 6/22) but they still felt like there was some weight in there towards the bottom 1/3, so nothing more till tomorrow. I pushed the stakes down a little bit for some LST but that's it. Again, I think it was the humidity this week that kept them from drinking. Today was really the first day all week it hasn't rained at least a little. I have the dehumidifier and the portable A/C off at the moment (after 9pm) and it's about 75 F. and 48% Hum. in the tent. Sad to say, no little balls that I can notice growing yet...but the girls did get a little growth spurt. Comparing the pics/measurements from last week to today, well, here are the numbers. I think I'm being realistically conservative. You can look at the pics and decide for yourself if where I'm measuring to is the right place. Triple Cheese last week: 15.5' this week: 18.5" White Widow last week: 14" this week: 16.5" Critical Kush last week: 16" this week: 20.5" So it looks like the ladies on the ends have taken over the Widow in the middle by a significant margin now. I think that covers everything this week. More to come next week.

Welcome growfessors to my outdoor 2021 grow. Week 18ish begins for these two ladies. They're getting occasional rain water and from the hose. Nothing else to report this week, thanks for stopping by 👽🌳💚

Day 49 update (Sunday 7/14/19): Almost time to chop! I think my humidity is finally going to be manageable for the drying- the second dehumidifier helped enough it seems. I cut out the base nutes (which for a few days were at quarter strength). I decided to stop with sugaree. No more cal/mag - I guess I should have cut that out weeks ago even in coco? So many different trains of thought. So I’ve now been flushing for a couple days using only water and canna boost and cannazyme along with mammoth p and hydroguard (ppm is at 200). I’m not PH correcting the reservoir tank and it’s up to 6.9/7.0 ph (I actually added a tiny bit of ph down before I decided to not worry about it) - I’m not sure if I like this strategy (seems to be an unsettled debate about ph correcting during final flush) I’ll switch to FloraKleen and water only (and still not ph corrected) for the last few days (in a few days or so - maybe a bit longer) THOUGHTS ANYONE?? I went to bed last night looking at pictures of bud rot and when I woke up I was convinced I had some. I actually chopped my first bud off the plants! one of my possible mold suspects (and one of the largest). Manhandled it - dug around - (I did use gloves and I did sorta try to be careful but...) I probably lost and damaged a bazillion trichomes - but.... it’s fine! No mold/bud rot at all. Beautiful actually. Some of the little fan leaves just turned prematurely yellow awhile ago and some extra areas of red hairs that concerned me but It’s great! Super stinky. Super nice. Dense. Pretty. I’m hanging that one nice big bud in the flower tent above the lights and in the corner away from a direct fan breeze (this is not at all ideal - the main harvest will be done in darkness; with no other humid plants in the tent; with proper air flow; lower temps; and they’ll have had a full flush unlike this nice cola I chopped with its “partial” flush only (see above) . It’ll be nice to experiment with taste before and after a flush since there seems to be so much debate about this. But I suppose my dry will differ too so not a very controlled test. This bud seems to be plenty mature and ripened - some amber trichomes - so I think this one bud chop may turn out to be a nice experiment caused by my neurosis about non existent bud rot) Woot.

5/13/22 - 5/20/22 5/14/22 Today my Poison Zkittlez got her Zamaldaberry room mate to move out so that she would have more space. She is trying to fill this 4x4. I did some defoliation and leaf tucking today to help open up those inner branches. 5/16/22 Today my girl got some defoliation and her resivore topped off at 3 gallons needed after 3 days. She is doing great and her flowers are getting beautiful 😍 5/20/22 Today marks the last day of week 3 of flower for my Poison Zkittlez. Topped off her resivore 3 gal. Did some minor defoliation of some inner leaves.

Week 5 Flipped to Flower. Finally recovered from Light burn and spider mites. Closed up all my light leaks and added a little CO2 to the room. Will be adding more CO2 soon. Added Trellis Turned lights up to 75%

10/19: I fed today. Only one plant has any signs of deficiency..an Orange Sherbet that needs more Mg than everybody else. Serious stink now! Wow..gonna have to order another carbon filter.. I shot a little video of the soil remediation amendments I'm using these days. This will be the first time I use the Coast of Maine Lobster Compost. I usually use a different brand with added biochar and mycorrhizae, but I wanted to see what all the fuss is about the efficacy of lobster compost. Recipe: About 50 gallons of soil, previously flushed with TPS Liquidsoil to re-establish the microbial population. 1 cu ft - Coast of Maine lobster compost 15 lbs - Earthworm castings 4.5 lbs - Microgrow granular inoculant 4 lbs - Bokashi 4 lbs - Dr Earth Veggie, Tomato, and Herb organic fertilizer 2 lbs. - Nectar for the Gods - One Shot granular fertilizer 2 lbs - granular humic acid plus molasses 1/2 lb - texas greensand 1/2 lb - azomite 1/2 lb - dolomite 10/20: Halle Berry(Blackberry A) is getting soooo fat..maybe 20" in circumference! I spotted another couple of nanners on the Strawberry Pie and decided to leave them to do their thing..might be some very interesting hybrids as a result. It occurs to me that it's almost time to start germinating the next batch of beans...👍 10/23: Fed them and rotated the edge plants. Switched to Cha Ching. 10/24: Halle Berry is foxtailing a bit ever since I upped the wattage in the tiny tent. She's fading nicely..I'll probably flush her towards the end of next week. I started germinating the next batch of beans today, so I'm gonna need these bitches to hurry the fuck up now.. 10/26: Fed them and rearranged a little bit. I dialed back the ONE, increased CaMg and Sweet & Sticky. I flushed Halle Berry with 8 gallons of warm water and LiquidSoil. She's ripe, but I'll let her go another few days.

H2O Algas Enzimas

Gushers is doing great under the Spider Farmer G5000/UVR40 lights, in the Athena blended line nutrition. She is due for a solution change before too long. Everything is looking great at the moment. Thank you Spider Farmer, Athena, and Royal Queen Seeds. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Discount code:GROWERS20 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g Spider Farmer Official Website Links: US&Worldwide: https://www.spider-farmer.com CA: https://spiderfarmer.ca UK: https://spiderfarmer.co.uk EU: https://spiderfarmer.eu AU: https://spiderfarmer.com.au G5000 Light Amazon Link: amzn.to/4643esa UVR 40: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BR7SGTHS Discount code: saveurcash (Stackable)

Put them in a greenhouse and moved them to get better sun but I know I shocked them moving them and I broke a support in my container but I rigged it up

So this week the little gelatocake is on week 8 and is really starting to eat herself now, full of trichomes and smells like tutti fruity chewie sweets. Last week of nutes for her then mollases only. Week 7 for the othere gelatocake and shes starting to fatten up now as well as fade also. Babys have got big since re potting I will.bend them over later. Sherbert mimosa are still taking there time I think they are starting to get bigger 🤔🤣 I Will keep you updated lol. Happy growing guys 👌💪💚

💥💥💥💥💥 C'est le feu 🔥🔥🔥 #trolmaster #madamegrow

Did first nutrient feeding w fox farms nutes. Very little. Things were going perfect then I woke up this am to slight curling again. I changed light distance and put in my other light as well so I’m now in need of ac unit or another fan bc it’s getting hotter, 85. Or I figure I could run my exhaust fan 24/7 and take it off my humidity switch but then I got to possibly get another humidifier bc the exhaust fan takes the humidity out of the room. Idk but the girls all in all are looking good to me. started lst on 6/30 using grow big and big bloom now

My permanent marker plants are looking really interesting! The short and stocky one with the purple leaves is super vibrant. I love that pop of color against the green of the other plants. It's a little different from the taller plant, which has this really cool stacked-up look to it. I'm curious to see if those stacked-up leaves will change color too. The past few weeks have been so beautiful, watching the plants grow and change. It's amazing how something so small and fragile can turn into something so strong and vibrant. Now that they're getting ready to bloom, it feels a little bittersweet. I'm so excited to see the finished product, but I'll definitely miss having them around while they're growing.

Welcome Back!💚 Nach der dritten Woche entwickelt sich die GG#4 weiterhin sehr homogen und sie erreicht jetzt die 5 interniode. Da es sich um ein Indica Hybrid handelt, lass ich die Pflanze noch weiterhin Wachsen, da ich den Seitenaustrieb noch etwas weiter in die Höhe ausbreiten möchte Die Umgebungsgegebenheiten sind bis jetzt optimal: ————— 🌞 Temp: 23°C bis 24°C 🌚 Temp: 18°C bis 19°C 💨 RH: 70% VPD: 0,55 kPa👍 ————— Grüne Grüße 🥦

First time growing so this week went well i'd say. Everything seems to be on time and looking well so we will see how the further weeks play out. Very excited to see the progress.

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

She's starting to really crystal up, and the smell is like an amazing lemonade smell. No gassy comes threw like I hoped but it's definitely a unique terp smell. Pritty excited