fortunately the situation has been recovered! after giving up fertilizers and with the purchase of the humidifier they now look much healthier. some stigmas start to color

The first signs of flower start to show up

Brothers and sisters farmers Welcome to a new rich and intense week of hard work for this photoperiod. The gems seem to start taking shape, even if contrasting with the melting infestation of shitty ... we fight without stopping and we will see how it will end!

Hello Diary, White Widow has reached the end of the 5th week of flowering, a total of 8 weeks since the start of the vegetation. As you can see from the photos, harvest is coming soon. I would say one more week and she will be ready. What's interesting is that this White Widow phenotype is a bit of a purple one. The flowers are starting to take on purple tones. The flowers are not as big compared to her roommates but they are rock hard and sticky under your fingers. This week I started checking the appearance of the trichomes and most of them are still transparent. All in all White Widow has pleasantly surprised me and brought a smile to my face when I look at her. The smell is very intense at this stage, the whole room smells like plants when I open the grow box. Watering is still every two or three days. This week I stopped adding nutrients, I just lowered the p.H. to 6.0 and water the plants with clean water. Here's what the previous week looked like. 13/09/2024 - Day 51. Watering. I prepared 9 liters of water, lowered the pH to 6.0 and used that amount to water all three plants on the farm. 16/09/2024 - Day 54. Watering. I repeated the same procedure as three days earlier. 18/09/2024 - Day 56. It's the end of the 8th week, taking pictures of the plants. That's all from me for this week, see you soon.

It has been a good week for the girls. 14 days old today and these ladies are some fast growing plants. They will get their next feed tonight when the lights come on. Their feed will be 600 ppm 1.2 ec and it will be ph'ed at 5.8. Good growth this week so we increase by 100 ppm. The runoff values I will post after feeding. Thanks to Kannabia for some good growing genetics. Looking like it's going to be a trouble free grow. Just the way I like it.. Shout out to all my growmie family....Cheers.. Fed at 600 ppm at 5.8 ph runoff was at 600 ppm and the ph was at 6.0 Sept 16th Fed the girls another round at 620 ppm ph'ed at 5.7. Runoff came out at 600 ppm 6.1 ph

Week 15 Day 99 (20/11/2020): Unfortunately did not have time today to take pictures or check them because have been quite busy. Day 100 (21/11/2020): Woow day 100 today, which seems a bit crazy but I think the girls just need another month and they will be ready for harvest. It has been a great grow so far and although 100 days seems like a lot, the girls have definitely come really far. I did notice that the leaves on the top of both of the girls are getting a bit more yellow and less of that deep green colour. After searching what could be the cause for the top leaves turning yellow, it seems that it is because they are too close to the lamp. They have grown super tall so the lamp is currently at its highest so unfortunately there is nothing we can do but hopefully it won’t affect them too negatively. Day 101 (22/11/2020)💧: Measured the pH of the girls today before watering and RHC1 was at 5.76 and RHC2 was at 5.92 which means it needs to be increased slightly. I wonder why it keeps dropping because apparently the BioBizz soil is supposed to maintain the pH pretty well but I guess these are big girls and they must be taking in more nutrients. So I watered them with the usual 1.5ml of BioGrow, 4.5ml of BioBloom, 1.5ml of TopMax. And on top of that I gave RHC1 0.75ml of pH+ to increase the pH by 0.5 points and gave RHC2 0.5ml of pH+ to increase it by roughly 0.3 points which should take them both to 6.2. The buds are definitely fattening up more and the trichomes are looking like lovely purple snow on the buds! Day 102 (23/11/2020): Not that many updates today, but they are doing well after the watering and some of the flowers at the very bottom that always kind of wilt on the day of watering are back up again. I should have thought of cutting them off before maybe... Day 103 (24/11/2020): Girls are looking beautiful, managed to get a close-up picture that shows how red the buds are quite well. I really need to look for my loupe because I want to see those trichomes closer up and see if it’s the trichomes or the actual buds that are red. The buds of the two girls do look quite different from each other though, definitely easy to tell them apart. Day 104 (25/11/2020)💧: Today I watered the girls with 1.5ml of BioGrow, 4.5ml of BioBloom and 1.5ml of TopMax . The lower leaves and buds of girl #1 are definitely not strong enough to hold themselves up just before the watering. I think also because the buds are taking up the most nutrients and towards the end of the 2 days it is not enough for the lower stems. So not sure what to do about these but I guess I can cut them off if they do not recover tomorrow. Day 105 (26/11/2020): Took some lovely videos of the girls today 😍 they are growing so big they should be ready in just a few more weeks I think.

en la primer semana de floración el crecimiento fue bastante las hojas mas bajas empezaron a presentar coloración amarilla por las sales incrustadas en la raiz empece a aditar claense para limpiarla las raices

Week 9 is here and we are looking at harvesting! After checking the trichomes of just the top colas, I decided this week I was going to harvest. I am updating this post after I have dried and harvested the plant so do not have much more details. I flushed the plant this week with Flora Kleen along with terpinator and microbes. I cut down the plants and hung them up in the tent to dry using a clothes hanger with clips I got off of Amazon. It took 10 days to dry the bud and my temps and humidity would fluctuate throughout the day and night. I stayed in the mid to low 70s for temperature and humidity was at 50% at first. Then I added a humidifier and had it dry in 60% humidity. Will update the rest in the harvest update.

Huhu 👋🏻 Neue Woche neues Glück…. - Den Befeuchter befülle ich alle 2 Tage neu, wichtig ist! (Immer mit destilliertem Wasser) - Ende der Woche habe ich dann umgetopft, sodass wir noch genug Zeit haben bis zur Blüte den Topf zu 70-80% mit Wurzeln zu befüllen Tag 23: - gegossen mit 250ml (Düngermischung) Tag 24 : - kurz bevor es dunkel wird einmal IPW angewendet (2,5ml auf 1 Liter) Tag 27 : - umgetopft in 19 Liter Topf - „angegossen“ mit 3 Liter (Düngermischung)

Finally harvest time arrived 🤗 It’s been a great run, though I had to improve a lot along the way. But as usual there was a way to get things done and finished up😎 After a long heatwave I decided to chop the whole tent, just a bit before I actually wanted to. But I see amber trichomes and heavy buds, so I think it’s safe to chop now, so here we go. 🤩 Can’t wait to taste this after so long watching over it🤤 More details to come.

Info: Unfortunately, I had to find out that my account is used for fake pages in social media. I am only active here on growdiaries. I am not on facebook instagram twitter etc All accounts except this one are fake. Flowering day 15 since the time change to 12/12 h. Hey guys :-) . The lady is developing beautifully, week after week :-). The stretch has started. This week I will clean everything down below so that the energy goes to the upper part. This week it was poured 3 times with 1 l each time (for nutrients, see table above). The entire tent was cleaned and everything checked for health. Stay healthy 🙏🏻 You can buy this Nutrients at : https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/ With the discount code: Made_in_Germany you get a discount of 15% on all products from an order value of 100 euros. You can buy this Strain at : https://greenhouseseeds.nl/ ☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼☝️🏼 Green House Seeds Company Cup Clone 🏆 Type: Wonder Pie ☝️🏼 Genetics: Wedding Cake x OG Kush 👍😍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Flower Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205 W 💡💡☝️🏼 Earth: Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Nutrients : Green Buzz Liquids : Organic Grow Liquid Organic Bloom Liquid Organic more PK More Roots Fast Buds Humic Acid Plus Growzyme Big Fruits Clean Fruits Cal / Mag Organic Ph - Pulver ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.8

2 week flowering!! In my opinion really great plants!!

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

This week was an absolute scorcher with daytime temps in the low 30C, but we had no rain so I had to water more frequently. Seen a lovely burst of growth after last week's nutrients. Decided to bend and secure today to learn new technique. I'm fairly happy with the results. Think I might need to book up a scrog net worth all my girls after this training.

Welcome to "Schroedinger's Plants," my first grow diary. This name isn't just a quirky choice—it comes from a (let's call it) gamble I took right at the start when I accidentally doubled up on the CALMAG FUSION in my grow medium, way over the recommended dosage. So, as of now, my plants might be thriving... or they might as well be toast. We’ll just have to wait and see. As I embark on this new growing adventure under the banner of "Schroedinger's Plants," the stakes are uniquely high. With a fresh grow tent, new lighting, and upgraded ventilation in place, every detail feels more pronounced, more vital. This isn't just a new chapter; it's a whole new book. As for Nutrients I got my hands on some Frosty Bud Nature All-In-One-Nutrimix thanks to a generous gift. These nutrients aren’t on the shelves for the public yet, so I’m really curious to see how they help my plants handle the extra CALMAG. The key players in this saga are three promising FastBuds strains: "Apple Strudel," "Tropicana Cookies," and "Gorilla Zkittlez." Each brings its own distinct flair to the grow tent, hopefully. I’m thrilled to report a 100% germination rate—every single seed sprouted within two days! And just three days later, those sprouts were already breaking soil. Will they thrive against the odds, or have I set the stage for a dramatic falter? Only time will reveal the fate of my Ladies. Either way, let’s find out what happens in "Schroedinger's Plants." I’ll keep you posted…... Cheers Gsus, why is this thing keep on deleting the Info... I'll post this here then: Anyone Interested, I'll be growing in 5 Gallon Fabric Pots with following Media: - 25 Liters of Canna Bio Terra Plus - 2 Liters added Coco Coir - 1 Liter of Vermiculite - 3 Liters of Garden Kompost - .75 Liter Wormcastings - 15 Grams of Mykorriza Fungi - 200 Grams of Frosty Bud Nature All-In-One Nutrimix organic fertilizer 6-12-8 - 75 Grams of Frosty Bud Nature CALMAG FUSION (WHICH IS NOT THE RIGHT AMOUNT) - 150 Grams of Frosty Bud Nature Growth Activator / Mineral Mix