8/19 Rained again last night. No damage but medium is drenched. The 9lb kush I've been struggling with seems to be improving. I spent a lot of time on her yesterday and at least an hour this morning defoliating and pruning her. New growth and flowers look promising. I'm cautiously optimistic. I defoliated what needed it. I needcto qpplyvorganocide again. I can see random signs of septoria leaf spot. I really have been off my fame lately. I'm back on it now. This week the garden will be rearranged and I'll pull that big GDP back and better support the blueberry for flower. That NYCSA is a beast. It's resilient as all hell and just continues getting bigger and fuller. Despite pr9blems in the garden this girl seems absolutely fine. At least I don't have that defeated feeling anymore. I've got flowers on a few different plants. I'll try to get a couple pictures. I may take rapacaps advice and add a cheap plastic roof for later flower. I'm not sure if the explosive flower growth is due to the liquid kool bloom but I think I'm going to switch back to tiger bloom as it works better with the other nutes. I'll jeep this updated but I've got work to do. 8/20 Well it Rained again last night. This is getting discouraging. Now my other 9lb kush has the bottom branch all droopy like there's a borer or something. Realistically with the temp swings and the weather I think it's a firm of root rot or pythiym damage which isn't good. I posted pictures of the stalks and would be grateful if anyone has any advice. I'm go8ng back down to look again for a borer hole but i didn't see one. What it looks like to me is that the petroleum jelly I put on the stalks (to battle ear wigs) seems to keep them moist or something inviting mold or fungus. I'm kind of at a loss. I don't really know where to go from here. I don't know if I should just replant the severely damaged plant away from the rest of the grow, bag it and get rid of it or leave it be and hope for the best. I certainly don't want anything spreading. I'm getting tigerbloom today as my plants still need to eat and I'm nervous about the liquid kool bloom. It's probably fine but still. I'll update after I put in more work and research more today. Any advice helps. UPDATE: No borer holes. The stalk looks fucking horrible. It's supposed to rain today. I'm going to give it one more day then I'll amputate that branch and get rid of the other plant if I don't see an improvement. Perhaps I'll plant it in the ground. Don't really know what to do. Family bar b que today so my options are limited. 8/21 FED TWO GALLONS TO THE GARDEN. ONLY USED .5TSP/GAL OF LIQUID KOOL BLOOM. Did not feed dieing plant. Back to super hot weather 80° at 9am. Did a lot of research last night. I also went to several commercial growers and asked advice. What I came up with was a fusarium infection of pythiym infection (Crown rot). I looked at all my stalks and they all have bark and are darker where I applied the petroleum jelly. I'm also NEVER using DE again. It fucking ridiculous amounts of water. Everyone swears by it bit it's not going in my garden again. Since use I can just watch water sit right on the GD soil. I tried to get some examples of what I'm talking about with the stems. I amputated that lowest bottom branch I trained (which was huge). I didn't have time to dispose of the other plant before my wife's doctor's appointment. I'll update when I go back over. I'm sure this won't help and may hurt but I used Bee Safe 3 in 1 on the wound and around the stalks of the plants I saw discoloration on. I didn't touch the NYCSA even though I see some discoloration. I may just be seeing things. That plant I'd super healthy and I don't want to risk losing it. It doesn't seem to have the stem rot like the others. At least I'm not the only one having problems. I hears some pretty bad stories. Still. I'm heart broken. I'll keep this updated after I go back over. FUCK. I MAY just go back to indoor. UPDATE: Got back from the appointment and the rest of the plant was all droopy just like the other 9lb kush (and the branch amputated). I wondered about that because other branches looked worse. I got the totally dead 9lb kush out and found some root rot. AFTER wheeling the bag out I found earwigs and other insects where the bag had been. Awesome. I used h202 to try to wipe down anything that looked Fingal in the stem. It sucks because it seems like that liquid kool bloom pushed them over the edge into flower. Cotton balls where there was nothing. So that's both my 9lb kush plants and the largest plant of the year the GDP that have all bit the dust. If you grow cannabis you know how I'm feeling. I KEEP TRY8NGVTO UPLOAD THE MINUTE VIDEO I TOOK BUT I CLICK ON SOMETHING ELSE AND IT DISAPPEARS. WIFI SLOW. HAVE TO WAIT FOR 5G 8/22 What do I say? Fusarium? Pythium? Stem rot? I'm going to have to get a tent to do some indoor to get the medicine I need for me and my wife. I took the last 9lb kush out and disposed of it. Well it's still in the bag. I'm hoping maybe it might come out of it (beyond hope and far away from the others (but I'm going to toss it today). This blows so hard. Flowers are just starting to develop. I like the liquid kool bloom. It seems to make flowers explode when there was none before. At least on the plants I have left. Actually even the dieing ones started flowering. I'm really concerned considering that one plant (at least) has septoria and every plant has that petroleum jelly on it. Cautio to people that use that. It seems thats where the rot started or is. In spots I spread the petroleum jelly. Anyway my NYCSA has the smallest amount of "funky looking stuff on the stem" so I'm hoping it will make it. Cotton balls starting to appear. If I lose the whole fucking crop I'm gonna go ape shit. UPDATE: Spoke with a few others and did more research. I removed my braces on the bottom of all the plants. It looks like the pjelly and the brace allowed for some type of contaminate. Other growers think I'm being too bleak. They think things will turn out okay. They are more knowledgeable about cannabis than me but I'm with these particular plants everyday. They're probably right and my anxiety is just getting g to me. It's scary seeing a healthy plant completely die in such a short time. After removing the other 9lb kush I could easily see extreme rootbound roots still too the size of the 1 gallon they came in. The bag was PACKED FULL of tight roots so they definitely made it down. The plant however just fell over when I pushed it. I had roughed it up a big before. Anyway I'm praying to the cannabis gods to not take what I have left. 8/23 Fucking pouring again. This sucks. I've gotten loads of advice and made another friend on here. I forgot my phone so I couldn't take pictures this morning. My spirits are up a little seeing that others are at least attempting to help. I'm headed to the grow shop after a night of research to grab supplies to battle this. I'll update later. EDIT: I picked up plant doctor at the grow shop. It was 50% off and I couldn't find anything with trichodermia. However, I've heard good things about this plant doctor. It's systemic and can be used as a root drench and a foliar spray. BIGGEST selling point for me is that it SPECIFICALLY lists fusarium, grey mold. Pythiym crown rot, black mold and all kinds of other shit. The thing that sucks is it's raining and it's not supposed to stop for a few days. That's going to make application more difficult. Oh well. I think I may do a root drench on the one plant that has a wilted bottom branch. I'll keep this updated. Thank you everyone who reached out. Especially growing grannies and my commercial buddy who is always here for me. However he has no experience with this so I'm kinda on my own here. EDIT: I couldn't find trichodermia and I don't have time to wait around and order. I found plant doctor which literally lists it treats all the possibly pathogens my issue could be. Even has a section for medical Marijuana. I did a root drench on the plant up front in the middle AND I did a foliar spray. Might as well get the septoria too. It's systemic but it gets in faster through the leaves I guess. It started sprinkling and I want to test this stuff out before I go ham with it. I did give some to the to other plants bit left my best AND THE TWO SMALLER ONES alone for now. I'm not seeing those issues on the NYCSA and I don't want to risk damaging it. I chose tge root drench as it's raining and the instructions for fusarium WAS a root drench. Thank you all for your help. I will close out tge question once I know it's figured out. Wish me luck. DID A SHORT VIDEO BUT WIFI IS SUPER SLOW SO I NEED TO WAIT TO UPLOAD IT. Went back over. Finished foliar spraying the other two and left the NYCSA and two Littles alone. Hopefully this works. I did I short video. Who knows if it uploads. UPDATE: Went back over and finished foliar spraying. Took a bunch of pictures and did a video but it didn't upload. I'm hoping this will do it. Plants actually look good. And they're flowering nicely! It's too bad I had to do a foliar bug this us supposed to combat PM and septoria as well. 8/24 It Rained last night but hasn't Rained today yet. It's supposed to and uts overcast. I'm really considering putting a roof on my grow (like rapacap suggested) for flower to decrease mold chances. Plants looked happy. I saw no negative effects from the Plant Doctor. I even sprayed a branch of the NYCSA and the stem and a little around tge roots. I finally feel like I can take a breath. I've been working so hard and worrying about losing g everything. I may have been able to save that 9lbkush but I don't think bit was worth taking the chance. The sun is peaking out now. My buddy at the grow shop called and set a side general hydroponics armor si 0-0-4 silica supplement cause it was 90% off. I pad like a buck sixty lol. I'll incorporate that next feed or water. Whatever comes first but it will be good to get it in the regimen. I was worried plant doctor might hurt but the girls seemed to kike it and I went ham on the worst plant. I mixed according to medical Marijuana guidelines on the label (Theres another label on the internet, it's not on this one, it's at the very bottom and just recommdations from commercial growers. I hope this stuff works. Things look better already though. That liquid kool bloom is the bees knees. That's making flowers pop up like crazy! I think I'll stick with it. I was going to use beastie bloom and cha ching later on (and still might) but I hate the lockout bullshit. I've done a bunch of videos but most don't get uploaded as i forget to upload when I leave and wifi is slow here. Anyway at least I've got a few good ones left and pleating the words of my commercial poll buddy, "barring anything catastrophic you should be fine. I know your anxiety gets the better of you sometimes." Couldn't be a truer statement. I'm still getting a tent and doing indoor though. I'm going to need to. 8/25 Did some slight defoliation. I think today I'm going to reorganize my grow space. Things are looking better though. Plants look healthier. Flower is on and they are going to beat hell. I'm glad I took a cutting from NY 9lb kush. I also took one from the NYCSA. THose are tge little ones. The 9lb kush is flowering pretty good. Too bad it's just on a 3 gal. The NYCSA us in a 10 gal grow bag though and is doing amazing. I still see septoria on the leaves. I'm sure I'll need to reapply plant doctor but thus far I'm impressed. Things LOOK better. I don't even remember the last time I watered. It Rained last night. Looks sunny today. I'm going to feed tomorrow. I want the soil to dry out though. We usually don't get consistent rain like this. It's a first for me. I'll update later if I get stuff done.still wondering if I should amputate that wilted branch or give it a bit. It's still attached right now. I'll get some sealant and do some more research.

Hello and Welcome back 🌱 It‘s now 7 days ago since I put them in Water to Germinate and now it‘s their 5th day of growing. Yesterday, they got their first 4 hours of darkness and now i‘m slowly going down to 18/6 light schedule. I admit, the environment was sometimes very off due to experiments with VPD and leaf temperatur but I think I can dile it in correctly for this growing stage and beyond (hopefully). I was trying to see what happens if I stress them a little and hoped they would grow faster but they 100% didn‘t like it. They heat up pretty fast when the Air is too hot and dry because the roots are not developed and the plant is not established enough. An established plant can stay outside in the heat of the sun and still have cool leaves. So my environment for this stage is as above (27°C,70%RH). Light at 15000 Lux (≈370 ppfd) a little high but I‘ve noticed some stretching and I asumed they wanted more light and I really don’t want any more stretching. My media comes without nutriens so i feed little amounts of it every time they dry out enough. This is a Indica dominant strain so I asume they will stay fairly smal. Btw. If anybody wonders if CO2 bags work, check out the Video I uploaded. They are still seedlings (not really in Veg yet) and so i‘m treating them as such for the rest of the week. Root developement is now the top priority wich, if you didn‘t know, is better in a smal pot first because they are more likely to develope secondary roots but we’ll see. I heard It‘s like topping just underneath the plant. When they are ready to be transplanted I most likely will take the first three. Update: I did all the preperations for Transplant bc I was worried about root bound. I took Nr. 4 out and washed it as carefully as I could to expose the roots. Some of them got stuck on harder peaces of dirt and got ripped off. But it looks like alot of secondary roots developed instead of just one long taproot, wich is nice. I assume i can transplant them in the next few days. I rearanged the plants according to the Lux reading, wich is highest in the middle so the bigger plants (Nr.1 and Nr. 3) went to the sides. Maybe Nr.1 got the „smal“ genetics and it’s not anything environmental. thanks for following along this far and happy growing! Update: hey guys so yesterday I noticed, that the roots are coming out of the bottom. They were trying to get to the bottom of the three pots 😭 i had to do an emergency Transplant wich went very bad because they were stuck in the little pots. I don‘t think i‘m going to use these kind of pots anymore because they were not easy to get out. I even dropped Nr. 3 but luckily nothing bad happened. After the transplant both Nr. 1 and 2 were already ready to get more light. But Nr.3 was turning away from the light and the leaves were hanging down. So to lower the stress and encourage root groth I redusced the amount of light to a minimum and lowered the Temperature and highten the RH. This seemed to work well because the leaves were purking up again. The next day after 6-7 hours of darkness they are doing fine again but i‘m going to give them a little longer to establish themselves in the new pot. I changed the light schedule to 18/6 since I had to give them more darkness yesterday. I hope everything goes smothly from now on.

Привет друзья. Наше знакомство продолжается с новым фотоцветущим растением от Smail_Seeds сорт ORIGINAL CHEMZKITTLEZ F1 reg. Сегодня растению 92 дня. Шишки наливаются уже тяжело ей стоять) Перевёл на 12/12 1.10.2023 Растение очень хорошо развивается, ни каких сбоев в генетике не наблюдается😀 Сорт выводим сами. Смотри мой профиль, у нас всегда есть что то интересное. Не забудь поставить лайк❤️, если понравилась как прошла неделя И читайте наш TELEGRAM: https://t.me/smail_seeds #Smail_Seeds 😀

Targona, 43 days since my little girl sprouted from the seed 🌱 Sixth week of growth for my Red Pure Auto CBD 💚❤️💚❤️ Nutrients: As I mentioned last time, I switched to mostly organic nutrients from Plagron and Biobizz💓 - Plagron Alga Bloom - is a complete fertilizer designed exclusively for the flowering phase. It contains all the important substances that the plant easily absorbs 🌸🌾 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Plagron Sugar Royal - is a supporting enzymatic fertilizer designed exclusively for the flowering phase. It contains hormones, enzymes, vitamins and trace elements necessary for proper flower development 🍭🍭🍭 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Plagron Green Sensation - Green Sensation is a professional flower stimulator and activator. It contains all the necessary ingredients that support flowering and also the formation of sugars, and thus the overall yield 🌊🌿 -------------------------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------------------- JUNGLE X Environ is a highly effective complex preparation for stimulating the formation of flowers 🌸🏵️ ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------- BioBizz Bio pH - is an organic pH regulator. An aqueous solution of citric acid, which is naturally found in citrus fruits 🍋🍋 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------- I am no longer fertilizing Plagron Power Roots this week, it should be fertilized no later than the fifth week of plant growth. Anyway, this is the last watering that I mix like this. I will gently switch to mainly organic nutrients, with the addition of very gentle flower stimulants, which are only slightly or partially mineral. In general: Red Pure Auto CBD 💚❤️💚❤️ - It is a beautiful plant. It still has deep green leaves, those that are close to the flowers are dark purple. It is clear that the flowers will be dark red, even purple. The plant responds well to everything from temperature, humidity, to excellent nutrient response, especially during the transition to flowering. It also responded well to the nutrient change in general. The truth is that I was very careful. Anyway, it looks really healthy and is enjoying life💚🌺🌱 Training: I did LST only on two small branches, which were blocked from the light by older strong branches and also a slight defoliation. It was really a few leaves that cast a shadow on the buds 💚🌞🌿🌞 Light: Mars Hydro TS1000 The plants respond effectively and the light is technically very well managed - I try to have 50 cm between the light and the plants, so I move it up regularly 💡💡💡 Thanks for the likes See you soon 😍😍

Day 83 - end of week 4 flowering and everything thing going good , super easy to grow so far with no problems. They have started giving of a really sweet smell can’t wait to taste 👅

🌱 Skywalker OG — Week 3 VEG Report 12/12 from seed | Vegetative phase ongoing General Overview Week 3 of vegetative growth ends with Skywalker OG performing exceptionally well. Both plants are growing in near-perfect sync, once again showing that environmental consistency is doing the heavy lifting here. Despite being grown in different containers (plastic pots vs Pro-Mix bags), there is no visible difference in growth rate, structure, or vigor. Rhythm, height, and development remain aligned — true twins in motion. Growth this week has been fast, confident, and clean. Growth & Structure • Stage: Vegetative • Flowering signs: None observed • Node count: ~6 nodes • Growth habit: Compact, fast, very controlled • Internodal spacing: Tight • Leaf development: Large fan leaves, dominant canopy At this stage, Skywalker OG is clearly prioritizing leaf mass and photosynthetic surface over branch elongation. Branches are present but still relatively short compared to leaf size — a classic sign of a plant building energy reserves before structural expansion. There are a few funky leaf expressions here and there — small personality traits rather than problems. Nothing concerning, nothing progressive, and nothing that requires correction. No training has been applied so far. ⸻ Container Comparison — Pot vs Pro-Mix Bag An important observation this week: There is no meaningful difference in growth between the plastic pot and the Pro-Mix bag. Both plants: • Grow at the same pace • Maintain similar height • Express similar leaf size and color This reinforces that, at this stage, root environment is equally supportive in both setups under these conditions. ⸻ Training Outlook While no training has been done yet, Week 3 observations suggest that training may begin next week to encourage lower branch development. The idea is not to force growth, but to: • Balance canopy dominance • Promote lower branch exposure • Prepare structure early and gently For now, observation continues. ⸻ 📸 Photo & Video Documentation This week includes both photos and a short video captured during the photo session. During the session, content from My Cheap Home Grow was playing in the background — a YouTube channel focused on home growing, sharing practical experience, open discussion, and solid grow knowledge. It’s a great resource with: • Passionate growers • Real-world setups • Honest learning environments If you’re into growing and learning from others, it’s definitely worth checking out. https://www.youtube.com/@cheaphomegrow7096 ⸻ Environment — Room Conditions (Week 3) • Photoperiod: 12/12 from seed • Day temperature: ~26 °C • Night temperature: ~18 °C • Relative Humidity: 60–65% • VPD: In optimal vegetative range • Airflow: Gentle, constant, non-stressful • Solution temperature: ~21 °C • Substrate temperature: ~21 °C Environmental stability remains consistent across the room. ⸻ 💡 Lighting • PPFD: ~600–700 (adjusted to plant size) • Plants continue to grow naturally into the light • No stretch, no light stress ⸻ 💧 Watering & Nutrition • pH: 6.0 • EC: 1.0 Nutrient program: • Plagron Terra Grow • Power Roots • Pure Zym • Sugar Royal Foliar: • Vita Race • Used selectively and intentionally Nutrition continues to support strong vegetative growth, lush color, and clean metabolism. ⸻ 🔍 What to Expect / What Not to Expect (Next Week) What to expect: • Continued vegetative expansion • Larger fan leaves • Potential start of gentle training • Increased lower-branch response once canopy opens What not to expect (yet): • No flowering initiation • No stretch explosion • No need to increase EC or push inputs Patience and observation remain the focus. ⸻ Final Thoughts Skywalker OG closes Week 3 as fast, lush, and confident. Tight internodes, big leaves, and twin-like behavior across different containers confirm that conditions are dialed in and the plants are comfortable. No rush. No force. Just strong foundations being built. Thank you to everyone following along and sharing this journey with us 🌱 FOR DISCOUNT CODES AND MORE JUST FOLLOW THE LINK https://website.beacons.ai/dogdoctorofficial 📲 Don’t forget to Subscribe and follow me on Instagram and YouTube @DogDoctorOfficial for exclusive content, real-time updates, and behind-the-scenes magic. We’ve got so much more coming, including transplanting and all the amazing techniques that go along with it. You won’t want to miss it. GrowDiaries Journal: https://growdiaries.com/grower/dogdoctorofficial Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/dogdoctorofficial/ YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@dogdoctorofficial ⸻ Explore the Gear that Powers My Grow If you’re curious about the tech I’m using, check out these links: 🔆 Lighting & Environmental Control • Future of Grow — Advanced LED lighting technology https://www.futureofgrow.com/ DISCOUNT CODE: DOG20 • Lumiflora — Under-canopy LED lighting https://lumiflorade.com/ • TrollMaster — Environmental controllers and automation gear (past collaboration) ⸻ Genetics • Zamnesia Seeds — Genetics used in this project https://www.zamnesia.com/ ⸻ 🌱 Soil, Substrates, Boosters & Root Support • Plagron — Substrates, bio mixes, and supportive products https://plagron.com/en/ ⸻ 🎒 Storage, Curing & Preservation • Grove Bags — Curing and storage solutions https://grovebags.com/ ⸻ 📸 Photography Equipment & Tools (Not sponsors, but part of my creative toolkit) • Sony A6700 • Sony full-frame macro lens + few more • Stacking photography workflow - learning • iPhone (for behind-the-scenes shots) We’ve got much more coming as we move through the grow cycles. Trust me, you won’t want to miss the next steps, let’s push the boundaries of indoor horticulture together! As always, this is shared for educational purposes, aiming to spread understanding and appreciation for this plant. Let’s celebrate it responsibly and continue to learn and grow together. With true love comes happiness. Always believe in yourself, and always do things expecting nothing and with an open heart. Be a giver, and the universe will give back in ways you could never imagine. 💚 Growers love to all 💚 📸 P.S. – The Eye Behind the Lens All photos in this diary (for now — except for the ones showing the camera, which I took with an iPhone) are taken with a Sony A6700 paired with a Sony full-frame macro lens and a few more. Photography is part of the story — it’s how we share the fine textures, the glow, and the quiet details that words can’t always capture. I’ve also started experimenting with photo stacking — a technique where multiple images, each taken at a slightly different focus point, are layered together to create one perfectly sharp image from front to back. It’s not digital enhancement or AI; it’s pure photography — a way to reveal the plant’s beauty in microscopic depth, from trichome to petal. You’ll even see a few shots of "ghost me" capturing the shots — camera, lens, setup — because every grow deserves not just to be cultivated, but documented like art. FOR DISCOUNT CODES AND MORE JUST FOLLOW THE LINK https://website.beacons.ai/dogdoctorofficial NEW DISCORD - Official Server Invite Link : https://discord.gg/ksjAkA5T74

Orange Sherbert looking good, well 3 of 4 one looking like not much at all🙄😩 they’ve got around 3 to 4 weeks left before flush anyway so there is time for a bit of catch up. The smell is ok, dank and skunky, no orange coming from them yet. On the most the buds look to be good n fat, nice n dense and a little bit sticky.

They all are getting close to harvest except Gorilla Glue which decided to out grow tent. Had to open vent and add light for top cola. Ugh

Per fortuna non è lei l'hermafrodita. Pensavo era lei ma poi guardando bene ho visto che è la strawberry 🍓 banana 🍌 della fast buds..mai successo prima...sarà che s'è stressata troppo con il taglio del apicale..boh non so. .,

**Encontrarás la traducción a español al final de la descripción** From/Desde: 09/02/19 || To/Hasta: 15/02/19 From day/Desde día: 71 || To day/Hasta día: 77 ----WEEK SUMMARY---- 10/02/19: Photos 1 to 5 - I must apologize for the colours of this photos, lightroom dng format and custom white balance seems to made me a bad play this time. 11/02/19: Photos 6 to 21 12/02/19: Photo 22 13/02/19: Photos 23 to 25 15/02/19: Video 26 & Photos 27 to 36 This is the last WEEK!!!!, i will only make one more irrigation with nutrients, and past 3 days 7 consecutive days of just water with Flawless Finish. You can see the amount of crystals of this babys, and i can't tell you how good it smells, touching any bud make the fingers get too sticky. Previous week and this week i was removing a huge amount of big leaves, to enable the light penetration to the lower parts where buds are not totally finished. I'm terribly impatient for Harvest time 😭 ---IRRIGATION CALENDAR--- 10/02/19 (Night) I prepared a solution with 3l water and (Big Bud, Bud Candy, Nirvana, Sensizym, Rhino Skin, Bud Factor X & Bloombastic) @ 1.6 E.C. PH6.4 ~750ml for each BlueBerry Mazar 13/02/19 (Day) 600ml of water & Flawless Finish @ EC 0.4~0.5 PH6.5 14/02/19 (Day) 400ml of water & Flawless Finish @ EC 0.4~0.5 PH6.5 15/02/19 (Day) 750ml of water & Flawless Finish @ EC 0.4~0.5 PH6.5 20/02/19: HARVEST TIME COMING!!!!!!! *****ESPAÑOL***** ----SUMARIO SEMANAL---- 10/02/19: Fotos 1 a 5 - Debo pedir disculpas por el color de las fotos de este día, el ajuste de blancos manual de los archivos dng de la app lightroom mobile me ha jugado una mala pasada. 11/02/19: Fotos 6 a 21 12/02/19: Foto 22 13/02/19: Fotos 23 a 25 15/02/19: Vídeo 26 y Fotos 27 a 36 ¡¡Esta es la última SEMANA!!, sólo haré un riego más con nutrientes y 3 días después empezaré el ciclo de 7 de agua y flawless. Podéis ver en las fotos la cantidad de cristales de estas pequeñas, y no podría explicar lo bien huele (es maravilloso). Tocar cualquiera de los cogollos te deja los dedos muy pegajosos. La semana pasada y esta he estado quitando muchas de las hojas grandes para dejar pasar la luz a los cogollos inferiores que no están tan hechos como la parte superior. ¡¡¡¡¡¡Estoy impaciente por hacer la cosecha!!!!! ---CALENDARIO DE RIEGO--- 10/02/19 (Noche) Preparo un solución con 3l de agua y (Big Bud, Bud Candy, Nirvana, Sensizym, Rhino Skin, Bud Factor X y Bloombastic) @ 1.6 E.C. PH6.4 ~750ml para cada BlueBerry Mazar 13/02/19 (Día) 600ml de agua y Flawless Finish @ EC 0.4~0.5 PH6.5 cada BlueBerry 14/02/19 (Día) 400ml de agua y Flawless Finish @ EC 0.4~0.5 PH6.5 cada BlueBerry 15/02/19 (Día) 750ml de agua y Flawless Finish @ EC 0.4~0.5 PH6.5 cada BlueBerry 20/02/19: ¡¡SE ACERCA LA COSECHA!!

This strain is amazing. Super frosty and the buds are rock hard. I suggest wait an extra week at the end of flower before harvest. The buds really pack on new large calyx the last week. The First smaller one yielded 3.68 oz including all the sugar leaf trim shown in the sticky note Pic. Second larger pot yielded..... I learned a lesson to use a bigger container for future grows. My smaller plant was small due to the 3gal container. My larger plant was in a 5gal and grew much better. My buds are much larger on the bigger container. I will be using minimum 7gal from now on. Smaller plant I harvested 2 weeks earlier and had 3.68oz dry. Larger plant 2 has wet weight of 630g. I pulled clones from the larger one before flower to test pure organic nutrients and soil I'm am building against advanced nutrients and happy frog soil. New diary to come in the future with the comparison.

It was a rough week for the girl. We had bad weather this past week very high humidity and lots of rain. I also dealt with some powdery white mold which I was able to get under control by using baking soda and water and removing lots of leaves. The buds are much more dense and the trichomes are starting to turn milky. Ideally I would have liked to keep this plant in the ground one more week but we have more nasty weather coming so I will be most likely be pulling this girl in the next three days. It has been about 11 days since I have given her any nutrients and she has received a lot of rain water. I pulled some of the lower branch when I found the PWM just in-case and I have those dry right now.

Esta semana dei a primeira poda top! Na planta #3 e #6 tentei dar a poda FIM (primeira vez que tento esta técnica vamos ver como corre)

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

Epic Harvest Chronicle: The Journey of Panty Punch Auto In the annals of our cultivation journey, there exists a tale of unparalleled growth, resilience, and triumph. Join me as we embark on an epic chronicle, tracing the extraordinary journey of Panty Punch Auto from a humble seed to a majestic harvest, overcoming obstacles and defying expectations at every turn. Our saga begins with the planting of a single seed, filled with the promise of potential and the whisper of destiny. From the moment she emerged from the soil, Panty Punch exuded an aura of vitality and vigor, her roots delving deep into the earth as if driven by an ancient force. As Panty Punch grew, so too did the challenges that beset her path. With each passing day, she stretched towards the heavens with an insatiable thirst for light and life, threatening to outgrow her confines. It was then that we intervened, bending and securing her with sticks and glue, a testament to our determination and ingenuity in the face of adversity. Rooted in organic soil enriched with Aptus nutrients, Panty Punch flourished under the gentle care of nature-inspired solutions. From seedling to harvest, she received a balanced diet of essential minerals and organic compounds, fueling her growth and vitality. It's a testament to the power of soil and nutrients in cultivating robust and vibrant plants, and Aptus has undoubtedly played a pivotal role in our success. In all my years of cultivation, I've never beheld anything quite like Panty Punch Auto. She stands as a towering testament to the potential of autoflowering genetics, defying convention and surpassing all expectations. From her towering height to her abundant foliage, she is by far the largest auto I've ever had the pleasure of growing. It's a testament to the marvels of modern breeding and the boundless possibilities that lie within the realm of autoflowering cannabis. Guided by the radiant glow of the Lumatek Zeus LED, Panty Punch thrived under the sun-like spectrum of light that bathed her in brilliance. From vegetative growth to flowering, the results spoke for themselves, with dense buds and resinous trichomes adorning her branches like jewels in a crown. The Lumatek Zeus proved to be the cornerstone of our success, providing the perfect balance of intensity and efficiency to fuel Panty Punch's journey to harvest. Throughout her growth cycle, Panty Punch was under the watchful gaze of the TrolMaster Tent-X, a marvel of modern cultivation technology. With precision control over every aspect of her environment, from temperature and humidity to lighting schedules, the Tent-X ensured that Panty Punch had everything she needed to thrive. It's not just a controller; it's the key to unlocking the full potential of our cultivation endeavors. Rooted in the rich genetic lineage of her parents, Panty Punch Auto is a testament to the breeding prowess of Seedstockers. According to the breeders, she is the progeny of select auto-flowering genetics, carefully bred to exhibit exceptional vigor, potency, and yield. With each generation, her lineage has been refined and perfected, resulting in the awe-inspiring specimen that stands before us today. As we bid farewell to Panty Punch Auto, we do so with a sense of awe and reverence for the journey we've shared. From seed to harvest, she has been a beacon of resilience and vitality, a testament to the power of nature and human ingenuity. And as we savor the fruits of our labor, we extend heartfelt thanks to Aptus Holland for their unwavering support, to TrolMaster for their innovative technology, to Grow Diaries for the platform that connects us all, and to the vibrant community of growers for their endless inspiration and camaraderie. In the end, Panty Punch Auto stands not just as a plant, but as a symbol of what is possible when we dare to dream and nurture those dreams into reality. May her legacy endure for generations to come. #PantyPunchAutoAdventure #RootsAndFruits #TrolMasterControl #GrowDiariesCommunity #CultivationExcellence Genetics - Panty Punch Auto - https://seedstockers.com/ Plant nutrition - Aptus Holland - https://aptus-holland.com LED Photons - Lumatek - https://lumatek-lighting.com Controls - Trol Master - https://www.trolmaster.eu/ Watering - myself Love and attention - Me, myself and i As always thank you all for stopping by, for the love and for it all , this journey of mine wold just not be the same without you guys, the love and support is very much appreciated and i fell honored and blessed with you all in my life, With true love comes happiness. Always believe in your self and always do things expecting nothing and with an open heart , be a giver and the universe will give back to you in ways you could not even imagine so More info, the ocasional give-away and exclusive updates from all my adventures can be found - links in the profile description Friendly reminder all you see here is pure research and for educational purposes only Growers Love To you All 💚 💚 💚

Still looking Good .. Buds Looking good Added some big bloom in last week… got some yellow fan leaves on it.. believe the Ph is off Sticking with 13-14 weeks before harvest time

Super Frosty and Sticky. Nice Stack ✌️🍀 For the People who want to know the Yield. Around 60 g per Plant in 8 Liter Pots. I think it's not bad. Try with 11 and you get 100 g ++

Kind of gave up on the weekly updates lol but here we are closing in on the end of the cycle! 3 bears is looking absolutely amazing, I’m so excited for the harvest. Basically no signs of deficiency whatsoever except for the occasional oddball leaf. Buds are shaping up nicely and getting close to maturity, currently around 80% milky so once I start seeing some amber pop up I’ll switch to flush mode for a week or so.