Harvest on day 91 of cycle , day 54 of flowering.. I could leave it few days more for sure however my ladt harvest is nearly finishing so I need to dry this plant as soon as possible hehehe.. Purple punch has really frosty buds, it didn’t grow as much as I wish(I had to move the plant to the toilet with my burple light as there was no space for 3 plants in my 2x4 tent) but they are looking insanely good, with a strong flavor of grape, I am impressed with this smell/flavour, all covered in trichomes, I can’t wait to smoke it.. So my way to harvest it is I cut it down on the main branch and hang to dry out.. all the plant .. I prefer dry trim because it’s way easier to trim.. so now I am gonna hang it for 2/3 weeks and then start trimming.. I will update yield and tasty as soon as I finish trimming.. Overall I am happy with the results 🙌🏼.

Added some CO2 to help with photosynthesis while at higher temps. These ladies really blew up at the end of last week and this week! The smell has really starting to be noticeable and pistols / flowers are finally showing! Side note I finally got more seeds to replace the one I lost early on. These ladies are really starting to become a treasure. Ended my LST this week.

The Superboof harvest was impressive, yielding large, crystal-covered buds with a captivating aroma. What's truly striking is the deep purple hue revealed when the buds are broken apart, adding a unique visual element to its already impressive qualities.

I skipped the last week because I didn't take any pictures. But this week there's some more pictures. The buds are developing beautiful. They're growing a lot and starting to get some beautiful colours. They're starting to smell amazing as well.

April 6, 2021 (Day 92, Flower 43): Everything looks great. Trying to get humidity down another 5% this week. Averaging 30% rH and 72℉. April 7, 2021 (Day 93, Flower 44): Plants are looking and smelling amazing. No complaints. Looks like Unknown 2 may finish up a bit before the others - guessing due to the genetics. Unknown 2 is incredibly frosty and smells very rich and dank. Very excited for the dry and cure! Gelato 1 and Unknown 1 seem to be about in line with each other development-wise. Averaging 30% rH and 72℉. April 8, 2021 (Day 94, Flower 45): Pots were light. Watered with 4l per plant with 4ml/l pH Perfect Bloom + 1ml/l pH Perfect Grow + 2ml/l Sweet Raw + 1ml/l Cal-Mag Plus + 1tsp/gal Humboldt Nutrients Big Up Finishing Powder at 6.4 pH. This waiting game is so difficult! Love opening my tent each day and being punched in the face by this smell! Just overall amazing experience so far. Averaging 30% rH and 72℉. April 9, 2021 (Day 95, Flower 46): Plants look amazing. Took my microscope to Unknown 2 today and the crystal development is insane. Averaging 30% rH and 72℉. April 10, 2021 (Day 96, Flower 47): Can't. Wait. For. HARVEST! Getting close! I think I will start flushing Unknown 2 but continue the feeding schedule for the other two plants. It is looking like Unknown 2 has a couple week shorter flower time than the others. Perfectly a-ok with me - then I can smoke it sooner! Averaging 30% rH and 74℉. April 11, 2021 (Day 97, Flower 48): Pots were light. Watered with 4l per plant with 4ml/l pH Perfect Bloom + 1ml/l pH Perfect Grow + 2ml/l Sweet Raw + 1ml/l Cal-Mag Plus at 6.1 pH. Starting to flush Unknown 2 from this watering onward. April 12, 2021 (Day 98, Flower 49): No report.

The buds are beginning to show, I'm excited for the upcoming weeks. Next week I will place a plant net, that way more lights might come through.

As always it's just a pleasure to grow this sativa dominant strain which definitely reminds me of a great indica with her extremely fruity and tropical sweet terpenes, very happy to have her in my garden and to be able to smoke such a high quality strain once again, hope you guys have enjoyed as much as me!

Seeding March 16 Germination 21-25 march 🇱🇺🌱🤩 Day 56 from seeding, flower in full progress Grow method 12/12 from seed- Sea of green here I'am again, yesterdy morning my ladies had their last schwazzing that means day 20-21 in flower, all in all everything looks very good, from yesterda on my CO² system is also in operation, tomorrow my ladies only have a bit of ph reg. water from me and giving them some time to revover from the defoliation stress before i start with nutes again.... and now I leave them alone until further notice.... Cheerio & Tataaa🤜🤛👊🏻🇱🇺🌱 ⚠️ Short info about my Humidity: as you can see my humidity sensor from my CT grow system that I have is around 80% RH, but that is not right, my humidity  is around 49-52% my sensor gets 24 hours  fully blown by my humidifier  onto the sensor no matter where I hang it because my ventilation is all around and is blown from top to bottom and a box fan lets everything circulate through the growroom so my old hygrometer is hanging in there againe and everything is fine Amnesia by & for @Superstrains Official Runtz by & for @Zamnesia Webshop came in 1 week later Sour Diesel by & for @Inseedious NL Cobalt Haze by @Sensi Seeds  & Arjans Strawberry Haze by @Greenhouse Seeds  for @Amsterdam Seed Center Under & for @Mars Hydro Factory Nutes by & for @Hy-Pro Fertilizers Soil: Atami light mix & 5mm broken puffed clay & 16mm puffed clay on the bottem of my 5.5L. pots Temp: 24,56 °C temp outside 15°C Lights: 12/12 Humidity: 49-52 % Vpd kpa: 1.3-1.4 Roots 17.50°C Ph : 5.90 Tds/ec 1.5 Water: 0.8L. p.plant  23°C CO²: No Mercy Tabs & boost bucket Nutes by Hy-Pro Fertilizers HyPro : Spraymix 0ml by 1L. HyPro : Terra vegi & bloom 4.5ml by 1L. HyPro : Rootstimulator 5ml by 1L. HyPro : Generator 0.16ml by 1L. HyPro : Epic Bloom 00ml by 1L. HyPro : Cal-Mag  0.5 ml by 1L. Light distance: =55cm to plant = 30cm to CTgrow sensor dimmer on 80% = 980umol/m²PPDF +-10 Vpd/kpa  - 1.350 -1.400 Gear all controlled by @ctgrow 1x MarsHydro TSW3000 1x MarsHydro TSL 2000 Air Van: 900m³ Prima Klima on 30% Filter: Prima Klima 660m³ for seed& veg stage & 660m3 CanLite for bloom stage 3 l water cooling airco Diamant... 3.3l humidifier 1.8l dehumidifier My grow room is variable in size 120cmx120cm² Custom Grow space for sog 150cmx150cm for scrog   Big THANKS to my lovely sponsors : Super Strains,  HyPro Fertilizers, Amsterdam Seed Center, Zamnesia, Inseedious, BTB Grow Supplies, Mars Hydro & CT Grow Systems

Bloom Mode On 🌺⚡️ Big shift this week—after 24 weeks of vegging, I’ve officially flipped the light cycle to 11/13 and kicked off flowering! She’s standing strong and ready for the next chapter. You can even catch the tent peeking in the background on the pics.🏕️💡 Why now? In my region, September and October tend to be wet, and I’d rather not risk losing these gorgeous buds to mold. Plus, the high summer sun is peaking, and I want to give her the best light intensity possible for an explosive bloom. ☀️🔥 She’s still running on the same feeding routine as my autoflowers—Effective Microorganisms a few days ago, followed by a dose of BioBizz Grow and Alg·A·Mic to keep her both green and stress-free as she stretches into flower. 💧🌿 To keep her strong and resilient, I’m also spraying silica on the leaves every three days—just a little armor for the battles ahead. 🛡️🌱 Let’s see what she does with all that sunlight and freedom—this Red Hot Cookies is about to turn up the heat! 🍓🌶️🚀

The last 100 meters shallow hahaha. The vegetative growth and bud formation are good I believe we will have at most 15 more days for plants # B1 # B2 # B4 # B5. Plant # B3 has small white pistils and, due to its structure, there is no way for it to be a photoperiod so it will have more days than its sisters. **UPDATE: B3 finally starting flowering with 66 Days ***UPDATE: 68Days flush Plants OK

Gone in to flower so started on some bloom nutes this week and also gave them a good defoliation

day 1 - flower week 6 has now started and i want to H²O stress her in the next 2-3 weeks in hope to get her metabolism to work faster. it works by fakeing that the plant has a dry year and might not have enought water to stay alive till she can reproduce. so she starts to work faster and goes turbo (bro science explainaition). thats what i want to try here so dont expect it to work out perfectly. i watered her every day before this week and i will reduce by about 40%. i will still spray the soil every day a little bit when the light turns on but only every other day she will get her usual water dosage (about 600-700ml)

I guess the correct headline here is bud rot. Took a while to figure out why I ran into these issues, after a bit more snooping around and investigating I came to a mostly certain conclusion. My passive intake was clogged with dust, barely any air was coming into the grow room. This, coupled with the fact my temperature and RH sensor/recorder was giving me back dated information and applying it to the present day. I didn’t realise I was getting 80%+ RH spikes during lights out for the last 3 weeks. I’ll call it a lesson, and start to check things more regularly around the grow room, not just the plants themselves. After a heavy crop scout with sterilised gloves and alcohol rub to hand, I carefully pulled back and inspected every cola, washing my hands between each cola. Unfortunately most of the largest colas fell victim to botrytis, in the end I cut off 7 colas completely and carefully sorted through into 3 separate piles on D100. One pile was the bin put into double tied sandwich bags with a good spray with 70% alcohol , this contained directly infected areas with a 5cm radius. (235g including fan leaves and stems (wet)) The second pile was for buds that were within 10cm of the rot sites that appeared to be healthy, this went into a brown paper bag, ready for hash making when I complete the harvest in the next couple weeks. (305g including buds and sugar leaves (wet)) The third, and most limited pile was bud sites that were more than 10cm away from the rot sites. These are now successfully dried and are now in their curing jars. Based on the smell, they already smell better than my last harvest so I’m hoping it’s a sign of things to come. (58g buds (dry)) I had to buy a 4x4 tent to temporarily dry the good buds, and will use again when I do the main harvest. The top colas that are left look a little stressed this week, not sure if it’s to do with shock from early harvest, but I am going in and checking every other day with clean clothes to make sure the problems are not progressing further. Based on the trichomes (video) the samples look like they’re a week or two away from harvest now, so hopefully I won’t have the throw anymore away before then. Anyway, waffling over, mainly wanted the detail for my own reference if I ever have to come back to this (I hope not). Good luck all!

No complaints thus far… she is coming along very strong.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Amazing amnesia smell, very powerful and strong, just like her sister, looks like this genetic by gea is super stable, both phenos 1 and 2 have the exact same pungent strong amnesia smell and the resin production is 🔝, very sticky flower and super dense and hard as well guys let's see what happens at the end! 💛💚❤️👨‍🌾

sehr guter smoke, sehr guter cut

I don’t know why I took so long to grow a lemon haze strain, I wanted to do it forever, and it turns out to be a great decision! I love everything about it, the lovely smell, the intense green, the awesomely pleasant feeling of inhaling and the high overall! Great strain!