The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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I gave Isopropyl alcohol 70% equal parts water, 1 tsp cayenne, and kept enough for multiday application, what little population of aphids is left I shall catch them the next morning, opening the tent 10 min before lights on the clovers have yet to open, all the aphids hiding on the undersides are easily visible, still none ever went near cannabis plant. Clovers are far tastier it seems. The alcohol kills on contact, the idea was to saturate the leaves with a light foliar application, and once I was done I ran it through the canopy with my hands, making sure as much of the clover surface came in contact with the iso, once done, I turned on the fans and evaporated it quickly. The beautiful thing about Isopropyl is that it evaporates rapidly at room temperature, way below boiling point leaving behind zero residual so nothing seeps its way into root zones unless you spill it there. It is a magical solvent that leaves no trace that it was ever there. Resonant Frequency: A resonant frequency is the natural vibrating frequency of an object and is denoted as ‘f’ with a subscript zero (f0). When an object is in equilibrium with acting forces and can keep vibrating for a long time under perfect conditions, this phenomenon is resonance. In our daily life example of a resonant frequency is a pendulum. If we pull back the pendulum and leave, it will swing out and return at its resonant frequency. Objects combine to form a system, this system can have more than one resonance frequency. The resonant frequency is termed as the resonance frequency. The phenomena of resonant frequency used in the series circuit when the inductive reactance (XL) is equal to the capacitive reactance (XC). If the value of supply frequency is changed, we can observe that the value inductive reactance (XL) and capacitive reactance (XC) is also changed. Inductive reactance (XL) and capacitive reactance (XC) are inversely proportional to each other. When we increase the frequency, the value of XL increases, whereas the value of XC decreases. When we decrease the frequency, the value of XL decreases whereas the value of XC increases. At series resonance, when XL = XC. The mathematical equation of resonant frequency is: XL = 2πfL; XC = 1/2πfC XL = XC 2π f0L = 1/ 2πf0C ; f0=1/2π sqrt{LC} Where f0 is the resonant frequency, L is the inductance, C is the capacitance How to Calculate the Resonant Frequency of an Object? An object exposed to its resonant frequency can vibrate in symphony with the sound. The wavefronts pushing on the object will arrive at just the right time to push the object with greater and greater amplitude in each cycle. To get a clear idea of this concept one of the best examples is pushing a friend on a swing. If you push the swing randomly, the swing will not move very well but if you push the swing at a specific time, the swing will get higher and higher. Another example to find the resonant frequencies is to place the object next to a speaker and place a microphone attached to an oscilloscope next to the object. Then play the sound in the speaker at a given volume, and then without changing the volume slowly change the frequency. Now observe the oscilloscope, you will observe that at certain frequencies the amplitude of the wave, is proportional to the volume of the sound that the microphone is able to pick up. The frequency that is caught by the microphone will be greater than at surrounding frequencies. These are the resonant frequencies and are detectable as the sound energy absorbed by the object is re-emitted more efficiently at these frequencies. The precise moment that constructive interference happens the amplitude of the wave will spike at the precise frequency emitted. Q: Compute the resonant frequency of a circuit whose inductance is 25mH and capacitance is 5mu F? A: Known values are, L = 25mH = 25 x 10-3 H C = 5mu F = 5 x 10-6 F Formula for resonant frequency is, f0= 1/2π sqrt{LC}1/2π√L f0=1/2 ͯ 3.14√ (25 ͯ 10-3 ͯ 5 ͯ 10-6) = 450.384Hz Why Neodymium? Ferromagnetism is an exciting phenomenon observed in certain materials, known as ferromagnetic materials, that can retain their magnetization even after removing an external magnetic field. Ferromagnetic materials can become ferromagnets and interact strongly with other magnets and magnetic fields. A characteristic of ferromagnetic materials is their magnetization ability, distinguishing them from paramagnetic and diamagnetic materials, where weak magnetism exists temporarily. This unique property allows for making permanent magnets widely used in various applications such as motors, generators, speakers, and data storage devices. The ability to generate and maintain a magnetic field without the need for a constant external source of power makes ferromagnets highly valuable. An alloy of neodymium, iron, and boron discovered in the 1980s is ferromagnetic, yielding permanent magnets over 1000 times stronger than anything ever seen before. The name neodymium comes from the Greek neos didumous, which means "new twin." Neodymium magnets are made of an alloy of neodymium, boron, and iron. This allows them to simultaneously store impressive amounts of magnetic energy while being highly resistant to demagnetization. Because iron oxidizes quickly, neodymium magnets are coated to prevent rust from accumulating. The attraction between two neodymium magnets is so strong that if placed close enough together, they can collide and shatter. Neodymium magnets have an unusually high-temperature resistance, and they can even withstand heat exceeding 200 degrees Celsius. N50UH 1-1/2"OD x 1.065"ID x 3/8"
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@Salokin
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The week went again pretty uneventful, other than me not getting the tip burn under control. I have further reduced base nutrients, removed the green sensation (simply because I ran out ;)) and increased pk 13/14 further. The buds continue to develop new pistils and continue to swell. The trichomes look mostly milky at this stage, I will however wait until I have around 20%-25% amber. I have cut a bud from the lower canopy (pictures attached), which is quite solid to touch and had a wet weight of roughly 1,2 gr and is currently drying. Overall the bud structure on this plant looks amazing the buds a re super dense, nicely clustered around the stems and she looks like she'll be a joy to trim.
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Day 80 Harvesting was a bit of a trick with this one because I used to Trellis Nets but it went very smoothly no accidents and in the end I ended up with a staggeringly large amount of wet weight. My wet weights have a minimal amount of stock so that they more accurately represent the actual weight of the flower itself. In three days roughly I will be putting in the dry weight and then putting all the flowers into curing. welcome to Day 83 this will be my last update i have now done my final trim and got my dry weight 362.30 gram's !! off one plant. that's 12.77 ounce's i don't sell but my god if i didn't care about laws lol, For a plant thats no cured i will sat it tastes smooth AF and has a nice head high that i didn't really expect from her being that its not cured and didn't really look like she had tones of trichomes. This baby is going to be nice in a month. I'd like to thank everyone that followed this grow and asked questions as always my friends keep your stick on the ice
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Well, this week has been eventful. What started with a fly deciding to lay eggs in my buckets with larvae swimming around and chilling on my roots turned into a bit of a disaster. I used very weak H2O2 (diluted 3% solution). To try and clean infestation, the roots didn’t like it, even though the actual concentration of H2O2 was probs less than 0.25%. Lesson learned 🙃 It has given some of them a touch of root rot (this is an assumption because I can’t figure out what else it could have been). So growth has stunted a lot. Just before the bug problem, I increased EC to 1.1, this was probably another mistake, the smaller girls at the back with a smaller root mass got massive lock out, potassium, mag and calcium by the looks of it, coupled with a few not so well timed PH swings out of the 5.5-6.5 range gave me a lot to combat this week. But, life goes on, they’re still alive (just about)... As this is probably the hardest curve ball I’ve had thrown at me since I started growing canna, I have cut back the EC to 0.56 to allow them to heal. Probably wrongly decided to top them all as they were growing past 7th node, either it’s gonna pay off, or I’ll be posting harvest details of 0g by this time next week 👽 I am on a stay at home holiday from work for the next 3 weeks, so looks like my babies are staying in the ICU and I’ll do my best to bring them back to life 😊
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17.11: Sup Guys, starting Off Week 5 beautifully - Great smell and Stack. Got you a Look around again. If you Insist of Any Pictures just ask. Adjusting the Nutes a Little as the CO2 will run out in 2-3 Days. Hopefully they keep stacking good as I dont wanna Hang another CO2 Bag. Stay Tuned! Any questions or Tipps? Feel Free to Comment. 21.11: Night temps dropping with the first negative Degrees.. You Can definitely see a difference between Lob #1 and #2 forming, #2 leaning more to the Zangria side #1 more to the Blue Lobster. All buds are still stacking nicely. ChemD still a little behind but as I said that’s due to genetics as from the breeders info she’ll need a week more than the others, maybe she will catch up we will see. Current setup as I got asked: BBC x WC (Topped) 2x Blue Lobster x Zangria (#2 topped) ChemDogg x Papaya 4x15L Autopot 480W Spiderfarmer SE5000 2x 15w Fan / one canopy one Cooling the LED 1x 50w 360 Rotation Fan 2x Trellis net Dehumidifier 380 w from comfee 4“ Incline Fan spiderfarmer 50/50 RO + Tapwater mix starting EC 0,25 Athena Ag on Coco
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@Ronzo9
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Decent week..... flushed the nutes and started again because it looked like I was scorching it! Smell has increased 10 fold and my garage stinks 😂 I had previously convinced my Girlfriend that the smell was actually the plant food, but now she sees me for the liar that I am. Looked under the magnifying glass today and seen milky trichomes and what looks like a couple that are half turning amber. So for that reason (and partly because I’m getting dogs abuse about the smell) I’m going to start flushing from today and move to harvest mid next week 😎
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10 September Harvest - see pictures. While some growers leave the plant whole when they cut, I do not. It is a personal preference and situational convenience if your a home grower. I chose to cut large, long branches, and remove any whole water leaves, as long as it doesn’t interfere with the bud formation. I don’t trim yet. This is done for a few of reasons: 1) It’s my last good close-up look at her until another 5 days or more, 2) I don’t want wet leaves drying on my buds if I can help it, and 3) I occasionally like being able to shine a small LED flashlight on the flowers while its drying. Mold is our greatest problem as growers, it can destroy a beautiful grow right up until the end process. Then I hang it in a dark closet, provide circulation and ventilation. Light and heat, anything above 80 degrees F, will start a break down in cannabinoids during the dry, it is ideal to stay away from both. I’m fortunate that a humidity level of 50- 55% and temperature of 65-70 degrees F is fairly consistent and easy to maintain. Anything below 60 degree F will prevent the adequate drying out of chlorophyll. Almost all my flower routinely take 5-7 days, some a little longer, to properly dry out. 15 September Trim - see pictures. First you’ll notice the buds have shrunk up to half their original size. This is just a fact that we growers have to deal with. Due to evaporation without uptake of water, it takes about 3 days for the chlorophyll to dry up, then slowly go through a chemical change. Along with the leaves, cannabinoids also begin a chemical change after 3 days called decarboxylation. A slow process where the THC level increases while curing. You want the leaf to be dry so they can be hand trimmed easily, but you do not want that bud so dry that it starts to fall apart in your hand. Try to handle carefully by the main stem to avoid touching the bud all together. A lot of these cut leaves will be covered with trichomes, good for making oils, or other products, it’s an option worth looking into keeping it. After trimming, I do separate a few premium flowers for my first smoq. Then loosely fill wide mouth quart mason jars with about 1 oz/28 gr of product per jar. I seal the lids for a few hours to determine what relative humidity they are at, see hygrometer pic, before making a decision to put in a 62% humidity control pack of my choice or to wait, then place in secure in a cool dark place with stable humidity and temperature. It is very important to then observe/burp or exchange the air as needed, up to several times a day, until 62% rh is achieved. Once your close to to your mark, put in your desired RH level control terpene shield. If you have a problem getting there: 1) it has dried out too much, no real solution, try to put several large cut stems left over from harvest into the jars with the buds to try and increase humidty, 2) it has not dried out enough, in this case no problem, just remove and dry out a little more. This is also a personal choice, some people like it drier in the 50% plus range. Whatever you do, research and preserve. At that time burping is no longer required. Cannabis will reach its peak potency potential at about 40 or so days into the cure. The finished product should be a perfect grind when cured correctly without clogging up your grinder, this could take a month. Now that I’ve said that, I’m sure someone has grown something that they have not been able to grind. It can remain in this state for an easy 6 months with little change, locking in all the terpenes and potencies. All you need to do is occasionally check the product to ensure there are no molds. If your grow/harvest/cure techniques are good this should not be an issue. It would not be uncommon to find many cannabis strains will last, with small degradable change, for up to one year after being stored this way. Using an airtight glass container, controlled relative humidity, maintained low temperature, and kept in darkness will equal maximum shelf life. Always avoid direct sunlight and temperatures above 80 degrees F. The reasons I’ve ultimately chosen Deep Water Culture as a grow medium. Each has their own pros and cons indeed. I found the most efficient, less maintenance and ideal solution for my situation was DWC. Burdens to overcome depend on size up set-up; initial equipment cost, size of containers, ph monitors, air pumps, type of water to use-reverse osmosis, RO cost/set-up/maintenance, ways to transfer/change water and nutrients, what nutrients to use and schedules, takes several grows to learn and understand, a 1 year learning curv, easy to nutrient burn. The Benefits of growing in water; no dirt, no bugs, no diseases, rare nutrient deficiencies/toxicities, steady and rapid growth that enables the plant to reach its genetic potential. After harvest, there is about a 1 hour equipment cleanup, sterilization and turn around process before replanting. Cannabis will perform in so many different ways and mediums, no one way is the best and the best way is the one you are using, right. Chose what works for you in the long run. There will always be an initial cost in set-up. My advice if one were in need to cut corners, I would not recommend cheap lights. This single factor is the most critical, afford for the best. The notion that organic and water has a different taste, flavor and potency effect is absolutely debatable. The more we learn the better we grow and experience is always the best teacher. This is what works for me and my methods of growing in general from beginning to end. A BIG “Thank You” to everyone who stopped by to take a look. My next diary will start at the beginning of October 2023 with a Forbidden Runtz Auto. There will be minor differences during the grow. I enjoy Auto strains simply by what can be achieved in a short time. No matter the strain they will unveil one thing in common, the demand for attention. Many times over it is the anecdotal gardener that surmount plant scientist. Last should I mention, do not forget to stop and enjoy the fruits of your labour...
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Tue 18th Nov. All pretty good, a few yellow leaves, still using calmag and vega, now some boost as well.
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@CBTreee
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This grow for a lot of attention on IG and I appreciate everyone’s support so much!!!
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Day 49 flowering: Hi all , I hope your all well and healthy. I think I have made a few miscalculation errors of flowering weeks here.lol I began timing their flowering period a little later than had been flowering I think. Seeing how advanced the #2 has been the entire grow followed very closely by the #1 , and adding the natural fading and leaves dying off that is very obvious too , these are very near their ripen time. looking back over the diary to when I began timing , the buds are fairly well in process so must have begun earlier but I missed the switch with the other seedling dramas I had going on at the time. oops. I am using the time line to keep the other Gorilla girl (#4) and the switch cheese at least on track timing wise ( sort of .lol) I expect the #2 girl will be ready within 2 weeks now but will show as an early harvest on the days. I have added the Shogun Dragon Force into their feed now for a week ( 2 more feeds at least) and then its a mild feeding of the Megacrop till finish. I do love their products and have been impressed by the dragon forces result on trichs. These Darker Gorilla (#2 +#4) girls are so trich laden already and very tacky to touch with a beautiful fruity smell pushing out too. The pictures just don't compare to the live and direct context with these buds but I tried to catch their best anyway. I haven't seen any pictures on sweets seeds grows of gorilla girls that are this dark purple at all and their examples are more akin to the #1 and #3 i have . I live them appearance of the dark phenos and a sure fire selling point for them ?. @sweetseeds ?. you seen these beautiful girls guys ?. With that said the younger ladies are also doing brilliantly with the #4 starting to swell and frost up similar to her older sister#2. Her structure was set slightly looser than the other 3 to see how it altered their bud production compared. She has wider node gaps that have their own clusters with them and she has grown taller from less ties obviously but , it also created a more airy frame for the density of the buds which is a bonus in a smaller environment. I don't feel as worried about bud rot with her as I do the other 3. I plan to brutal defol one of the next autos being run to see how this affects the final result. using the same strains should be a fair comparison. The Sweet cheese has also allowed me to satisfy my curiosity and try a natural untouched grow. She has some beautiful coloured on her tight single stemmed main and the side branching is attempting to keep up with the main but nowhere near as productive . while she is a capable height , i prefer the L.S.T for shape and working on so far. Being so hands off is a new one for me too.lol Her diesel smell is really evident now and even the lowers are getting a nice chalky appearance of trichs hiding the pink hues she has going on all over. Inhave enjoyed this grow with the sweet girls and only wish I hadn't lost so many of the other strains so early on. A breeder to re visit without doubt. enjoy the pics and video folks . keep well and loved ..
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Lemon Haze is just doing her thing quietly in the background, slowly getting overshadowed by the booming Ztrawberriez ladies. 😅 She's started to give off a nice lemony haze scent, which is really pleasant, but she still looks like a small sword, tall and thin with not much going on on the sides. I don't expect much more stretch or branching at this point, but maybe the buds will fatten up a bit. Let's see what she has in store! 🍋
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@Weediz
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Day 85: The left plant is developing much slower, and I think it is caused by light stress. The right plant needs more light than the left one, so I have lowered the left plant. I don't understand why this grow as been so slow. They had problems through out there grow, but they are growing fine in size, and the left plant has much less noticeable problems. It might have something to do with the big pot size maybe?
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Growth was damn fast and high. She's up to 115 cm. Day 5 in Flower
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contento con el resultado, se aumenta la dosis de NPK a 14ml/L. alejé un poco el foco para que se espigue más rápido. 1/3 trasplante definitivo a maceta de 18L. en unos 15 dias la paso a flora
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Seedling has successfully emerged and is standing upright with good posture. Cotyledons have opened fully, and the first set of true serrated leaves is developing nicely. Leaf color is healthy light-to-medium green with visible texture, no signs of burn, deficiency, or pest damage. Stem is thin but stable, showing no signs of damping off.
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2nd week of stretch in the books and the males showed up on time. We pared the grow down by 4/5 plants. I think I’ve got at least one more male to cull from the lot. Still having serious struggles with getting the females to transition in earnest and cut back all the fan leaves pretty severely to try and encourage some stress induced fruiting. Still very unhappy with the strain to date and now they’re just taking up space. No issues, nor were any expected in this system and I’ll be happy to be done with these. Now it’s just waiting for the finish.
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In this dairy I will be growing two, Big Kush photoperiod plants alongside 4 others (see other dairies) using the methods of Topping, Low Stress Training, ScrOG and slight defoliation under the screen. I am growing in a 4x4 area and will be using a 250W MH, 400W & 600W HPS over the grow period. The other 4 plants will be grown using the same technique and environment, I am just splitting the dairies into separate strains as recommended by GrowDairies. The seeds were placed directly into solo cups that were pre-soaked with plan, pH'd water overnight beforehand. After three days all seedlings had emerged, and I placed them in the shadow of my other plants currently being grown for three more days. After this I transplanted them directly into the 11L pots that they will be in until harvest (see photos). I will be growing the plants until the are roughly 6 weeks old or 1m tall, whichever comes first. I will be bending them and keeping the branches low to build an even canopy, so this time period could change. All of the seedlings are being grown in BioBizz all-mix soil, so I will not be using nutrients either for the first 1-2 weeks. Any questions or recommendations, please let me know! Thanks :)