The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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I gave Isopropyl alcohol 70% equal parts water, 1 tsp cayenne, and kept enough for multiday application, what little population of aphids is left I shall catch them the next morning, opening the tent 10 min before lights on the clovers have yet to open, all the aphids hiding on the undersides are easily visible, still none ever went near cannabis plant. Clovers are far tastier it seems. The alcohol kills on contact, the idea was to saturate the leaves with a light foliar application, and once I was done I ran it through the canopy with my hands, making sure as much of the clover surface came in contact with the iso, once done, I turned on the fans and evaporated it quickly. The beautiful thing about Isopropyl is that it evaporates rapidly at room temperature, way below boiling point leaving behind zero residual so nothing seeps its way into root zones unless you spill it there. It is a magical solvent that leaves no trace that it was ever there. Resonant Frequency: A resonant frequency is the natural vibrating frequency of an object and is denoted as ‘f’ with a subscript zero (f0). When an object is in equilibrium with acting forces and can keep vibrating for a long time under perfect conditions, this phenomenon is resonance. In our daily life example of a resonant frequency is a pendulum. If we pull back the pendulum and leave, it will swing out and return at its resonant frequency. Objects combine to form a system, this system can have more than one resonance frequency. The resonant frequency is termed as the resonance frequency. The phenomena of resonant frequency used in the series circuit when the inductive reactance (XL) is equal to the capacitive reactance (XC). If the value of supply frequency is changed, we can observe that the value inductive reactance (XL) and capacitive reactance (XC) is also changed. Inductive reactance (XL) and capacitive reactance (XC) are inversely proportional to each other. When we increase the frequency, the value of XL increases, whereas the value of XC decreases. When we decrease the frequency, the value of XL decreases whereas the value of XC increases. At series resonance, when XL = XC. The mathematical equation of resonant frequency is: XL = 2πfL; XC = 1/2πfC XL = XC 2π f0L = 1/ 2πf0C ; f0=1/2π sqrt{LC} Where f0 is the resonant frequency, L is the inductance, C is the capacitance How to Calculate the Resonant Frequency of an Object? An object exposed to its resonant frequency can vibrate in symphony with the sound. The wavefronts pushing on the object will arrive at just the right time to push the object with greater and greater amplitude in each cycle. To get a clear idea of this concept one of the best examples is pushing a friend on a swing. If you push the swing randomly, the swing will not move very well but if you push the swing at a specific time, the swing will get higher and higher. Another example to find the resonant frequencies is to place the object next to a speaker and place a microphone attached to an oscilloscope next to the object. Then play the sound in the speaker at a given volume, and then without changing the volume slowly change the frequency. Now observe the oscilloscope, you will observe that at certain frequencies the amplitude of the wave, is proportional to the volume of the sound that the microphone is able to pick up. The frequency that is caught by the microphone will be greater than at surrounding frequencies. These are the resonant frequencies and are detectable as the sound energy absorbed by the object is re-emitted more efficiently at these frequencies. The precise moment that constructive interference happens the amplitude of the wave will spike at the precise frequency emitted. Q: Compute the resonant frequency of a circuit whose inductance is 25mH and capacitance is 5mu F? A: Known values are, L = 25mH = 25 x 10-3 H C = 5mu F = 5 x 10-6 F Formula for resonant frequency is, f0= 1/2π sqrt{LC}1/2π√L f0=1/2 ͯ 3.14√ (25 ͯ 10-3 ͯ 5 ͯ 10-6) = 450.384Hz Why Neodymium? Ferromagnetism is an exciting phenomenon observed in certain materials, known as ferromagnetic materials, that can retain their magnetization even after removing an external magnetic field. Ferromagnetic materials can become ferromagnets and interact strongly with other magnets and magnetic fields. A characteristic of ferromagnetic materials is their magnetization ability, distinguishing them from paramagnetic and diamagnetic materials, where weak magnetism exists temporarily. This unique property allows for making permanent magnets widely used in various applications such as motors, generators, speakers, and data storage devices. The ability to generate and maintain a magnetic field without the need for a constant external source of power makes ferromagnets highly valuable. An alloy of neodymium, iron, and boron discovered in the 1980s is ferromagnetic, yielding permanent magnets over 1000 times stronger than anything ever seen before. The name neodymium comes from the Greek neos didumous, which means "new twin." Neodymium magnets are made of an alloy of neodymium, boron, and iron. This allows them to simultaneously store impressive amounts of magnetic energy while being highly resistant to demagnetization. Because iron oxidizes quickly, neodymium magnets are coated to prevent rust from accumulating. The attraction between two neodymium magnets is so strong that if placed close enough together, they can collide and shatter. Neodymium magnets have an unusually high-temperature resistance, and they can even withstand heat exceeding 200 degrees Celsius. N50UH 1-1/2"OD x 1.065"ID x 3/8"
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@rhodes68
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11/22 Day 9 Time to transplant into the one gallon intermediate pots, increasing feed ppm slowly. Feed set to 5ml/gal ea Cocotek A/B 370ppm after water adj Into the veg tent 5ml Kangaroots given as a one time for transplant Feed upped to 450 ppm 11/25 Feed changed to 600ppm 11/26 Feed to 780ppm 11/28 End of the week and things are good. The smallest plant isnt stunted just a different pheno (grr) 😜 Transplanting in a day or so
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Hi everyone :-) This week, phenotype 2 and 3 were repotted just like phenotype 1 from the Zamnesia Spring Cup in the other diary 🙏🏻. Otherwise not much has happened this week. I'm curious how the two with Canna Bio will compare to the monster bud mix in the spring cup diary :-). I wish you all a nice weekend, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 👏🏻😎
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🌱 Week 1: The Journey Begins! 🌟 Hey Grow Fam! 🙌 We’re off to an epic start with our TrolMaster adventure, and I’m already feeling the love for the setup, the seeds, and the growth happening in the room! So, let’s dive right in and get into the details of this exciting week! 🌿 Germination Update: Our first Gorilla Melon seed from Fast Buds didn’t sprout, but no worries—round two was a success! 🦍🍈 The second seed has germinated and is looking full of potential. I’m throwing in a Sweet Seeds Papaya Zoap into the germination station too, so we’re keeping this exciting lineup going strong! Germination is such a key part of the journey, and having a healthy start is what it’s all about. 🔧 Room Build & TrolMaster Setup: The build is coming along beautifully, and I gotta say, the TrolMaster system is blowing my mind! Everything’s under control like magic 🎩✨, and the TM+ app? Wow, just wow. I mean, I can literally be in the bathroom and still keep an eye on the plants—check all the metrics, adjust settings, and fine-tune what I need, all from my phone! 😂💧 This level of control is next level. I’m loving how smooth and seamless it makes managing the room. The gear is just unreal, and seeing it all come together is truly something special. 🌱 Nutrition Talk: As for feeding, we’re starting light but smart! I’ve begun with 0.15ml of Regulator and 0.25ml of Startbooster per liter for now. I always believe in starting easy and ramping up as the plants develop. These early stages are crucial—balance is everything. For the time being, I feel this is more than enough to keep the babies happy and healthy. 🌿💧 The Regulator is working wonders in maintaining plant structure and health, while the Startbooster is fueling the early root and vegetative growth, laying down a solid foundation for the weeks to come. It’s about getting it right from the start—too much too early can be a killer. Keeping it steady with precision, that’s the goal! Big Shout-Outs: To the amazing team at @TrolMaster, @Fast_Buds, @Sweet_Seeds, @AptusHolland, and all the incredible sponsors—I’m beyond grateful for the support! 💚 And to my GrowDiaries fam and followers, you guys make this journey what it is—thank you for the love, and I’m so honored to have you along for this ride. 🙏 We’re just getting started, and I can’t wait to show you what’s next. Stay tuned for more updates, epic builds, gear reviews, and plenty of insight. Don’t forget to follow me on GrowDiaries, YouTube, and IG for exclusive content, and let’s make this grow the best one yet! 🌿🔥 Growers Love to All 💚💚💚 P.S.- A deep dive into the Full Spectrum Quantum Sensor (MBS-PAR): The Full Spectrum Quantum Sensor (MBS-PAR) is an essential tool for any serious grower looking to optimize their light environment. This sensor measures photosynthetically active radiation (PAR), which refers to the spectrum of light that plants actually use for photosynthesis—typically between 400 and 700 nanometers and more depending . What makes the MBS-PAR sensor special is its full spectrum capability, meaning it accurately detects not just visible light but also far-red and UV light—which are crucial for maximizing plant growth, development, and flowering. With this tool, I can monitor the exact intensity of light my plants are receiving, making sure they’re getting the optimal levels for every stage of growth. By using this sensor in my grow room, I’ll be able to ensure that the light distribution is uniform across the canopy. Plus, it allows me to fine-tune the light output from my ThinkGrow LED setup, ensuring my plants are thriving under the best conditions. Whether it’s increasing light during the vegetative phase or fine-tuning it for flowering, the MBS-PAR sensor helps me keep everything on point. And the best part? I can monitor it all through the TrolMaster app, ensuring I can make adjustments whenever needed—even if I’m not in the grow room! This level of precision means healthier plants, better yields, and maximum efficiency. It’s a game-changer for taking the guesswork out of lighting and getting closer to growing perfection! 🌱💡 Growers Love to All 💚💚💚
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Smooth week - final harvest. Plant 5 was a surprisingly quick trim :)
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- Week 6 - ----- Day 36 ----- No feeding today as it was tomorrow so nutrient line up isn't up yet. I'll do that tomorrow. Ladies are perfect, I can't wait. less than 30 days away. ----- Day 37 ----- Today is feeding but back left is behind the other 3 again, gave the other 3 500ml of tap water (10ppm) to prevent turgor pressure loss while back left dries up. Should be feeding in 3-4 hours. 23L 1100-1500ppm (new feeding, so ppm end is not known atm) 6.4 pH Plants are insane, big Bertha has become middle Bertha as the other stems have fattened up quickly. Speaking of which plants are in bulk period, 3~ weeks left so it's an exciting time to watch them fatten up. **UPDATE** Fed at 1000ppm 23L 6.4pH The removal of FloraNova Bloom, and letting the chelated Diamond Nectar go to work on the molasses brings down the "accountable" parts by the machine I use. 1000ppm is full strength on all fertilizers being used. I might add more molassses in the future and bring it up to 2ml/L, and maybe a smidge of epsom salts next feeding via foliar or direct feeding after I do some research. No more KoolBloom liquid, KoolBloom powder begins and she's a strong one. ----- Day 38 ----- Yesterday back left plant has me unnecessarily anxious. It didn't need watering till 2 hours before lights off. What I did is fed the other 3 90% of the feeding, and only gave back left 10% (closed the irrigation heads till the end of feeding). I'm HOPING it was the plant transitioning from pre-bulk flower to bulk-flower stage, and maybe it slowed down photosynthesis to concentrate on hormonal changes. I dont know I'm anxious and just talkin out loud. I'll know within 72 hours if there's a major issue with back left. Plant looks fine, i'm just paranoid. Pictures later today around mid light cycle. Buds are getting insanely fat. **Update** Was bored. Here's some wicked shots. Still 25-27~ days left and its big bulk time. Can't wait to see them at the end. ----- Day 39 ----- Everything is great. Feeding late tonight or potentially tomorrow depending on back left plant. I want to make sure bottom center of the root zone has dried out and doesn't begin to mold before I water again. This will also help prevent fungus gnats in the soil. I'll keep the other 3 away from turgor pressure loss, but they got 90% of the feeding last time so I expect them to dry by the time back left is. *** Update *** Now the other 3 plants who were faster on water intake than back left yesterday have slowed down. Weed growing knowledge at a Horticultural greenhouse scientific repeatable level is pure fucking garbage. I have 6~ books and checked dozens of sites and there was major conflicting info on water intake. That's the problem with cannabis, it was illegal for so damn long horticulture practices and knowledge never molded or were used in the process and now it's anyone's fucking guess as to who is telling truth or is spouting bullshit bro-science. Don't even get me started on names. What a stupid god damn naming system "counter-culture" created... I'm growing wedding cake.. WEDDING CAKE? Wtf. That's stupid as shit. Give weed botanical Latin names based on appearance and technical factors PLEASE!!!!!! If I could name this plant it would be (Cannibas v. hybrid 'multa-magnum-fragum-gemmae-dulcis') why? It's due to it being a; Cannabis plant, hybrid variety 'multiple big bud strawberry candy' showing off multiple long bud stems smelling of candy, Is that more convoluted and arrogant than Wedding cake? YES, it is. Is it better? YES fuck your stupid wedding cake name. That's dumb. And you should feel bad. Still want to argue? Name it Cannabis v. Hybrid 'crustulam nuptias' THERE! Wedding cake. fuuuck! 99.99% of plant names are Latin. Anyways... back to the point... I hypothesize that there is a secondary transition portion of flower where the plant (like in stretch transition) pauses its growth to move the hormone and nutrient production to other sources. This secondary pause happens JUST before bulk session begins. This hypothesis states roughly that up until final big bulk period (last 3-4 weeks), fan leaves and sugar leaves could still be produced by the plant during a "predator" or "high weather event" situation that would cripple the plants photosynthesis for final bud/seeding production during early to mid stage flowering. Once the plant has reached adequate nutrient reserves or some other time or light cycle based trigger, it removes the hormonal/internal production/ability of sugar/fan leaves still being potentially produced out of the internode stem cells and fully stops that ability and concentrates 100% of growth on bud structure and protection of bud structures through THC/CBA/CBC/CBD etc. (Im a little tipsy, can't spell cannabinoid leave me alone...) production. Tonight I will at 30 minutes before lights off be judging the water requirements during sleep of each plant to prevent turgor pressure loss, and to allow each plant to finish this transition and get back to major water intake by feeding tomorrow morning. It's insanely obvious somethings changed. I Was worried that leaving back left plant with stagnant water in the bottom saucer (pot doesn't sit directly in the water but is 3 inches above it) had released mold spores and started destroying the root mass of the back left plant but: 1) No obvious plant death signs, weakness or other aspects of it being a slow death from bottom up. 2) The other plants did the same damn thing within 48 hours.... and the back left plant is by far the largest and gets the most "light" due to its size hence it would most likely (HYPOTHESIS) finish its secondary cycle a bit faster due to just volume and weight. Listen i'm not gonna say this is all 100% correct knowledge, It's based off feeling and "knowing" plant cycles as a greenhouse certified Horticultural Technician. Repeated efforts to grow and replicating situations that created these things over and over is the real proof and will come in time. One major benefit is the fact I WILL be re-flowering these for the VERY LEAST 3 full flowering cycles as long as they don't die during flower to veg transition. I will be getting them THC tested EVERY SINGLE flower cycle to prove without a doubt the "maximum maturity" possible of a weed plant re-veg flower cycling, just like how we know by the 5th or 6th successive clone, the DNA will deteriorate and the grow will be stunted or a lesser bud high and yield. God I fucking ramble when I'm bored and tipsy. ----- Day 40 ----- Fed at 1350ppm 6.3pH 23L Plants are doing great. **Update** Little fun video from mid light cycle. Roughly 20-25 days left. Will finish at 30% amber 70% cloudy and will cut branch by branch as they are done, not in a rush to do 1 single cut and will let them survive to re-veg easier and less stressful. ----- Day 41 ----- Easy day. Here's some pics. Just basically have to watch the grass grow today. ----- Day 42 ----- Big photo day, used ruler for most shots. End of beginning of bulk, big bulk starts tomorrow. Could probably feed late night tonight but I'm going to just give 500-750 ml of water depending on roots needs before lights off. Tomorrow will be a big feed for first day of week 7. Tropicanna Glookies tips on back right are beginning to darken and become purple. I am hoping this whole plant turns purple in last 2-3 weeks. We will see. **Update** Back right plant is starting to turn purple and FAST. Pretty awesome.
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👋Top is a clean cut, no confusion for the plant, road ahead is clear, by completely removing the main growth tip, the auxin source is eliminated. The plant permanently halts vertical growth from that main stem and immediately sends its energy and hormones to the two new, evenly spaced branches just below the cut. Fimming slightly different because a small tuft of the top growth is left behind, the auxin disruption is temporary and less severe. The plant recovers more quickly and sends its energy to multiple surrounding growth points, often creating four or more new shoots from the same spot. It will eventually regain some vertical dominance after a few weeks if left to its own devices, but with a little more LST, bending the apex to the same height as the rest of the internodes, this shatters dominance, hopefully creating around 8-9 main shoots growing at equal height once recovered and grown out. Reduced environmental intensity for now and let her focus on dealing with this new stress for a week or two. When H+ ions are added to soil, the first nutrient displaced from exchange sites is typically aluminum (Al3+), if it's present, followed by calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+), and potassium (K+), because aluminum and these base cations have different binding strengths. The order of displacement depends on the lyotropic series, where ions with a higher positive charge and those with weaker binding strengths are displaced first. The specific order of nutrient displacement is determined by the lyotropic series, which ranks the strength with which cations are adsorbed by soil particles: Al3+: Most strongly adsorbed, so if present, it will be displaced by H+ ions, leading to increased solubility of aluminum and potential plant toxicity. Ca2+: Displaced next, as it is more strongly bound than Mg2+ or K+ but less than Al3+. Mg2+ and K+: Displaced after Ca2+. The displaced nutrients can be lost from the root zone through leaching, becoming unavailable to plants. As H+ ions increase, the proportion of acid cations (H+ and Al3+) on the exchange sites increases, while base cations (Ca2+, Mg2+, K+) decrease, resulting in a lower soil pH. The amount of photosynthesis (water splitting) directly determines the availability of H+ ions (protons) in a plant. 90% of water is for cooling of photosynthetic apparatus the other 10% is split for its H+ among others things. Carbon sugars, like glucose, do oxidize in soil through a process primarily driven by microorganisms, which break down these sugars for energy. This oxidation converts the sugars into carbon dioxide (CO2) through cellular respiration, a key part of the soil carbon cycle, though some carbon may also be incorporated into soil organic matter. The rate and extent of sugar oxidation depend on factors like oxygen availability, the presence of Fe oxides, and soil redox conditions, which can all influence the process. My understanding of why we flush. Just plain water, what does it do? Strips the medium of salts and nutrients making it empty. What does that do? Triggers nutrient recycling within the plant. What's nutrient recycling? It is a natural part of plant senescence, which can be triggered once you know the switches. A 24:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio will also trigger. Why won't it trigger autophagy for me? Nitrogen needs to be gone, gone, gone almost. Ammoniacal (organic) nitrogen takes 4-5 times more water to separate it from soil particles than nitrates so what happens is most people jist flush the nitrates, leave all the ammoniacal in there and this prevents autophagy initiating. Nitrogen decays differently depending on its form during the dry. Ammoniacal nitrogen will oxidize in the air, leaving no trace. But nitrates do no decay and turn volatile and smelly and remain trapped until smoked, no matter how long you cure it does not oxidize. This is why you need to trigger it and begin the denitrfication process prior to harvest to get rid of all the nitrates. Otherwise, you will smoke it. Flush till autophagy begins, just make sure you add no nitrogen afterwards. Micronutrients for trichomes. Don't leave the medium empty for 2 weeks, that does nothing but reduce yield 10%ish. Trichomes are another thing. Trichomes themselves are not directly affected by flushing; rather, flushing affects the plant's nutrient uptake, which influences the development and final state of the trichomes. Trichomes are filled with antioxidants in the last weeks, which is what makes them cloudy. A lot of the processing of antioxidants requires energy and nutrients (mostly micronutrients ), so you don't want that soil empty for 2 weeks, you just want the carbon nitrogen ratio 24:1and no higher. She still wants what she needs to ripen. Processing antioxidants is energy-intensive; heat and light accelerate the rate at which THC converts to CBN. This is why you lower DLI, lower temps. By doing so, you reduce the oxidative workload caused by photosynthesis, which opens up the oxidative capacity for the production of antioxidants. THC is mostly processed at night when the plant's oxidative capacity is generally moreso "free and available" for work
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@Yukagrls
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It seems like she needed to be closer to the light so I moved her a closer. She is growing very tall and fast. I water her once every two days or when I see the soil is dry. :)
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@Krisis
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08/21/24. Going into week 8 flower Welcome back to hell. Just kidding.. kinda.. Day 57 out of the 71 stated. This girls definitely going the whole way, if not more. She’s trying to make up for time that was taken from her. With the way she’s filling out now, I’m like damn. What would she have been like had we not hit a huge long bump in the road?? I’m shocked at what she’s even doing honestly. Big ups to Pablita. 👊 I guess this diary can just be a testament to this strain being resilient af. Also, hopefully it can serve as an example that you can bring a plant back from near death. Anyhow, giving her plain water currently as I think there’s still some build up in her soil. I tried feeding her a bit and noticed immediate tip burns. Going do water again next time as well and then a VERY light feeding that time after and see the happenings. I’m just trying to take it as slow and easy as possible with her. With progress .. don’t wanna throw everything back to shit. She’s thirsty every other day. Drinks almost a gallon, and get about 10% run off. Guess that’ll be all for now. ✌️
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@shimowi
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and we giving kikkdown 600watts on em
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@Organic_G
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Blütewoche 5 kam zum Ende / Tag 34 Das Volumen der Blüten hält sich in Grenzen, kann auch mit dem UVB zusammen hängen, aber die Qualität der Blüten ist 11/10, super leckerer Duft, steinharte Knospen und was auffällig ist, das Terpenprofil variiert sehr stark, die oberen Blüten die schon fast maximal reif sind haben eher ein leicht abbauendes Terpenen Profil, von dem Gassy Duft der wie ein Permanent Marker riecht sind die Blüten mit der höchsten UV Exposition als auch Licht Exposition bekommen einen stärkeren Wood Chip Geruch, die darunter liegenden Blüten haben noch den Permanent Marker Geruch… interessant vom selben Pheno Typen verschiedene Terpenenprofile zu erhalten…
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@Mr_Maes
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We are officially in full bloom. The have been enjoying 6-7 hours of sun light per day for about 4 days now, then brought back in under the cobs. The girls are all exploding with growth and stacking what I expect to be huge buds.
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July 19: first night of force flowering last night. Moved into dark garage at 9:30 pm and out at 7:30 am for 10 h of darkness. Using 730 nm far red light at transition to dark which puts plant into dark mode two hours faster and is like getting a 26 h day with 12 of darkness. Rain day. July 22: Foliar spray of Epsom salts and potassium silicate this morning. The magnesium in the Epsom salts helped with the yellowing on the new growth. July 23: added another loose Scrog net layer. Tied to water bottles to open up the canopy to sunlight.
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@StarLorr
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Welcome to my autø Møøn Røck 2 Diary. In this Diary: Seeds: Sponsored by Ðivine Seeðs Media: Pro~Mix HP *•ns Nutrients: Remo Supercharged Kit *•ns *•not sponsored ___________________________ Feeding: Wed 13Nov: 2L Remo/Recharge pH'd 6.3 Sat 16Nov: 2L Remo/Recharge pH'd 6.5 ___________________________ Buds are still puffing up and they look so yummy and that pinkish purple hue just turn me on😳😂 ___________________________ Thanks for stopping by, likes and comments are appreciated!👊🏻😎 Keep on growin! Keep on tokin!!! 😙💨💨💨💨💨
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The plant has developed well. Considering it was under a small 20-watt lamp until the early flowering stage and only later moved into a new setup with all the necessary equipment, it has grown very well. Now, in week 11, it shows healthy growth. There have been some issues with yellowing leaves here and there, but overall, it looks good and is thriving.
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@Hommero75
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End of week 4 for GG4 Sherbet FF and it seems that this week was good for her. She is bouncing back little by little from her issues. She stretching slowly she is taking her time and that is ok with me. She just got fed some Goldleaf feterlizer and I did some defoliating on her to remove some of the bad leaves.. let's see how week 5 goes.