The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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I gave Isopropyl alcohol 70% equal parts water, 1 tsp cayenne, and kept enough for multiday application, what little population of aphids is left I shall catch them the next morning, opening the tent 10 min before lights on the clovers have yet to open, all the aphids hiding on the undersides are easily visible, still none ever went near cannabis plant. Clovers are far tastier it seems. The alcohol kills on contact, the idea was to saturate the leaves with a light foliar application, and once I was done I ran it through the canopy with my hands, making sure as much of the clover surface came in contact with the iso, once done, I turned on the fans and evaporated it quickly. The beautiful thing about Isopropyl is that it evaporates rapidly at room temperature, way below boiling point leaving behind zero residual so nothing seeps its way into root zones unless you spill it there. It is a magical solvent that leaves no trace that it was ever there. Resonant Frequency: A resonant frequency is the natural vibrating frequency of an object and is denoted as ‘f’ with a subscript zero (f0). When an object is in equilibrium with acting forces and can keep vibrating for a long time under perfect conditions, this phenomenon is resonance. In our daily life example of a resonant frequency is a pendulum. If we pull back the pendulum and leave, it will swing out and return at its resonant frequency. Objects combine to form a system, this system can have more than one resonance frequency. The resonant frequency is termed as the resonance frequency. The phenomena of resonant frequency used in the series circuit when the inductive reactance (XL) is equal to the capacitive reactance (XC). If the value of supply frequency is changed, we can observe that the value inductive reactance (XL) and capacitive reactance (XC) is also changed. Inductive reactance (XL) and capacitive reactance (XC) are inversely proportional to each other. When we increase the frequency, the value of XL increases, whereas the value of XC decreases. When we decrease the frequency, the value of XL decreases whereas the value of XC increases. At series resonance, when XL = XC. The mathematical equation of resonant frequency is: XL = 2πfL; XC = 1/2πfC XL = XC 2π f0L = 1/ 2πf0C ; f0=1/2π sqrt{LC} Where f0 is the resonant frequency, L is the inductance, C is the capacitance How to Calculate the Resonant Frequency of an Object? An object exposed to its resonant frequency can vibrate in symphony with the sound. The wavefronts pushing on the object will arrive at just the right time to push the object with greater and greater amplitude in each cycle. To get a clear idea of this concept one of the best examples is pushing a friend on a swing. If you push the swing randomly, the swing will not move very well but if you push the swing at a specific time, the swing will get higher and higher. Another example to find the resonant frequencies is to place the object next to a speaker and place a microphone attached to an oscilloscope next to the object. Then play the sound in the speaker at a given volume, and then without changing the volume slowly change the frequency. Now observe the oscilloscope, you will observe that at certain frequencies the amplitude of the wave, is proportional to the volume of the sound that the microphone is able to pick up. The frequency that is caught by the microphone will be greater than at surrounding frequencies. These are the resonant frequencies and are detectable as the sound energy absorbed by the object is re-emitted more efficiently at these frequencies. The precise moment that constructive interference happens the amplitude of the wave will spike at the precise frequency emitted. Q: Compute the resonant frequency of a circuit whose inductance is 25mH and capacitance is 5mu F? A: Known values are, L = 25mH = 25 x 10-3 H C = 5mu F = 5 x 10-6 F Formula for resonant frequency is, f0= 1/2π sqrt{LC}1/2π√L f0=1/2 ͯ 3.14√ (25 ͯ 10-3 ͯ 5 ͯ 10-6) = 450.384Hz Why Neodymium? Ferromagnetism is an exciting phenomenon observed in certain materials, known as ferromagnetic materials, that can retain their magnetization even after removing an external magnetic field. Ferromagnetic materials can become ferromagnets and interact strongly with other magnets and magnetic fields. A characteristic of ferromagnetic materials is their magnetization ability, distinguishing them from paramagnetic and diamagnetic materials, where weak magnetism exists temporarily. This unique property allows for making permanent magnets widely used in various applications such as motors, generators, speakers, and data storage devices. The ability to generate and maintain a magnetic field without the need for a constant external source of power makes ferromagnets highly valuable. An alloy of neodymium, iron, and boron discovered in the 1980s is ferromagnetic, yielding permanent magnets over 1000 times stronger than anything ever seen before. The name neodymium comes from the Greek neos didumous, which means "new twin." Neodymium magnets are made of an alloy of neodymium, boron, and iron. This allows them to simultaneously store impressive amounts of magnetic energy while being highly resistant to demagnetization. Because iron oxidizes quickly, neodymium magnets are coated to prevent rust from accumulating. The attraction between two neodymium magnets is so strong that if placed close enough together, they can collide and shatter. Neodymium magnets have an unusually high-temperature resistance, and they can even withstand heat exceeding 200 degrees Celsius. N50UH 1-1/2"OD x 1.065"ID x 3/8"
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@AsNoriu
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Day 85. Girls are packing up , still flowering like nothing. I have other diary with moved Kushes running and explained there a bit more why i think i have that leaves discoloration. Still lost what happened, but measures were taken, girls got EcoThrive Microbe Tea, Epsom salt , now its only to finish them. 3 plants from 8 got some deficiency and the only variation was new brand of molasses for me. Let's see will it stop the spread or i have to find real problem .... I was always using Cal-Mag not by Biobizz, this grow i tried to use theirs, but simple epsom salt works better and faster... Drifting away from organics a bit ;))) Skunks looks like a faster strain, Cheeses just packs flowers, no brown pistils at all. In my mini hopes they are 5 weeks away from harvest. Happy Growing and Merry Christmas !!!
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Some of my beauties have little bit iron defficiency but.. i just bought FE+ nutritions So IT ill be fine i think Soo ..
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@fezzollas
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That was the most difficult week. It was very cold and rainy, the humidity of the air reached 90% at most, but without sequels, thank God. On day 63, I defoliated and she is strong, fat and definitely smells like cheese.
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@GanjOS_OG
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We picked up the cuttings for the GanjOS Lab from High4Life on December 30th and put them in our propagator for around 3 days for acclimatization.
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my dry and cure style is this: 4 days of hanging upside down to get water activity lower to around 0.6 in 50% humidity and 26 C temp (i know its a little high but we are in a hot summer right now and i cant get it lower even with air conditioner) and then after 4 days of drying i remove leaves and stalks, trim buds and move them to jar for the rest of their life :D . and in the first 4 days of curing i open the jar door and let hem get some fresh air in the jar for about 5 minutes and close the jar door again, after 4 days of curing like that buds are smokable but they will get better as they getting cured about 1 month. buds are one of the hardest as fucking rocks type of buds! very dense , compact , sticky , smelly , amazing at every aspect growing stage was 60 days and flowering stage was 70 days total (harvested tops at day 63th) the total weight of dry buds was : top buds 174 G + lower buds 55 G = 229 G my overview of strain with details: the seeds: unfortunately i only got 1 seed cracked out of 5 so i will not know how much this genetic can get different but at least i got the chance to grow once of this wonderful strain the plant : in every stage you can ensure that you are dealing with a high level plant , she will get big so you have to control her height LST and SCROG highly recommended , will grow very well with tick stalks and big fan leaves , has good resistance for stress and will respond very well to stress trainings , she really has gorilla power in herself , fresh buds on plant : buds are very compact and dense even from start , fresh blossoms smells like pineapple and mango , 2 different shades of sweet smells like you hold 2 junks of pineapple and mango in your hand and you smell them together, she is a trichome and resin factory , very very sticky , very oily , strong smell dried buds: very compact and dense , hard as rocks , has dark colors with purple hues inside it , it smells sweet smoke : very smooth and sweet like lollipop , pineapple , mango like , after 2 minutes it'll kick in and you'll get higher and higher with every breath , has a strange and especial high mind high mostly
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Well not a whole lot to say this week she fading and the smells are more rotten in this bud a bit the over ripe fruit smell is good .. she had lots of resin and the buds are getting dense now.. The strain is very nice and easy to grow with a big for giveness when it comes to overfeeding and she loves training ...
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Day 78 F22: Watering/Defoliation/Tucking GSC 1.5 Gallons of water pH 6.6 Runoff pH 6.4 NL 1.5 Gallons of water pH 6.6 Runoff pH 6.4 Notes: I watered first thing when lights were on. Afterwards, I did a pretty big defoliation, getting rid of approximately 85%+ of the fan leaves. After this, I re-positioned a lot of the bud sites. There were a couple that were pretty woody and I could not move without inadvertently super-cropping. I didn't feel it was necessary though as the canopy is almost completely even now. Also, going to start adding a small dose of cal-mag to every feeding now, and feeding base NPK at 3/4 strength instead of the 1/2 strength. We'll see how they do. Day 79 F23: Nothing new Notes: Plants are recovering from major defoliation very nicely. New dehumidifier will be here tomorrow. RH has been steadily around 54% with the shitty dehumidifier running almost constantly. To anyone reading this, I cannot emphasize how useless those little ones from Amazon are, don't buy em. Day 80 F24: Nothing new Notes: New dehumidifier came. Required a bit of reorganizing my space. I obviously can't put it in the tent, so it has to sit outside and dehumidify the whole room. It will take some time to adjust, considering the humidity I'm worried about it beneath the canopy of the plants, but I will let it run and see how good it work. I adjusted my inkbird down to 45% RH and will probably adjust down to 40% in a month. Day 81 F25: Feeding GSC 1.5 Gallons of water 0.5 tsp/gal Armor Si 2.25 tsp/gal Big Bloom 1.5 tsp/gal Grow Big 1.5 tsp/gal Tiger Bloom 1.0 tsp/gal Cal-Mag Plus 0.5 tsp/gal Kelp Me Kelp You pH 6.5 NL 1.5 Gallons of water 0.5 tsp/gal Armor Si 2.25 tsp/gal Big Bloom 1.5 tsp/gal Grow Big 1.5 tsp/gal Tiger Bloom 1.0 tsp/gal Cal-Mag Plus 0.5 tsp/gal Kelp Me Kelp You pH 6.5 Notes: Had to break open the bottom of pH Up for the first time. After everything was mixed, it came in at 6.4 pH. I could've easily used that, but decided to try out the pH Up. You have to use significantly more to get the pH to move when compared to the pH Down. Added half a tsp to the mix to get it to move a tenth. With pH down, that would've dropped it probably a whole point. Day 82 F26: Nothing new Notes: Just patiently waiting for flowers to beef up and making sure temperature and RH are on point as well as monitoring the plant for signs of distress. Day 83 F27: Nothing new Notes: Didn't notice anything new, but was really tired this night and went to sleep early. Day 84 F28: Watering GSC 1.5 Gallons of water 0.5 tsp/gal Great White Micorrhizae pH 6.6 Runoff pH 6.6 NL 1.5 Gallons of water 0.5 tsp/gal Great White Micorrhizae pH 6.6 Runoff pH 6.7 Notes: Watered today, but noticed an issue on the NL. Lots of leaves showing necrotic spots which look like a calcium issue. pH has been pretty on point the whole grow, and I just started feeding more cal-mag, so I'm not sure what the issue is.
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Hey hey ! Trying to limit the stretch and it’s good ! Flowers started to show them faces !
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6/28/25 transplanted into a 3 gallon pot. Soil amended with dr earth 463 and home made worm casting. Filled hole with mykos for transplant. Roots looked really nice and healthy
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Had high winds and it took it first tumble of the grow, the burning you're seeing in the picture is from it laying on the hot roof for jesus knows how long. I just snipped the burned parts of and kept it pushing, nothing else that can be done and I didn't lose a branch so smiles all around. I have stopped training for the most part, I've learned there is such a thing as overtraining outdoors and it causes you to lose branches.
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This week I made a couple of changes. 1st, I moved the time lapse camera to the other side of the tent and set it to take a pic every 10 mins instead of 5. Then on Monday, I started with the nutes and since now I had to mix them up, I decided to test an auto watering system using a fountain pump and a plant watering kit with hoses and tips that I got at a dollar store no less. Still a growing curve to get the right amounts, as you will see in the time lapse I had a little spill over in one pot. I will play with them more this week to fine tune the amount, then set it on timer and just keep filling the bucket and testing the ph. So far the girls are getting bigger and I ordered a net from Amazon to try the ScrOG method as they get bigger still to keep the height down and spread them out some more and eventually get a better yield at harvest time. I am also going to do a little topping this coming week. I also added an air bubble stone to the bucket to keep the nutes mixed up.
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Showing signs of pre flower (i believe) super exciting.
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Was a tough last few weeks lots of work to be done big problem with humidity finally sourced a good enough dehumidifier and added another 1200 light. Lemon skunks were suppose to be autos but no signs of flowering yet so I'm forcing them with 12/12. No room left in the tent now because photos are going into flower too
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@BloodBath
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Everything was fine until I seen what appeared to be nutrient burn starting. The tips were getting slightly burnt. So last week I stopped nutrients and gave plain RO water with SLF100 and Herculean harvest to break up whatever was causing the burn. I then gave it a light feeding and then fed again with just plain water and SLF100 with Herculean harvest. So flush feed flush is what I did. Well now I have a bigger problem. My bottoms are all turning yellow. No brown spots, no curling. Just going yellow. I have already gave them a huge feed today. They got everything in my Nectar Line up plus BioBiz Alg a Mic and roots Organics teas as a top dress. Doing this I plan on fixing the Nitrogen deficiency and Potassium deficiency. Of course I’m not 100% sure that’s what the problem is but I’m pretty damn sure. My PH and PPM are solid and on point so there is only so many things it could be from that point. Plants aren’t hot. They aren’t cold. Humidity is spot on. More than enough light. Not over fed or over watered. I’m hoping things will bounce back really soon cause I’m not too happy with myself right now.
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She is getting pretty and filling it well..been less than a week since I retopped her (properly) seeing g some good growth... Dli is 42
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Got the tent set up to try to dry Going to keep it as close to 60 humidity and 60°F Monitor moisture level using a moisture meter, and will pull when