Day 83: After being in the dark for like 4-7 days, they where ready to harvest. All plants getting cut by the machine, big buds are cut by hand. I never weight wet buds because that doesnt make any sence. I will update soon on how much it is dry weight. My friend helped me with the harvest since it takes many hours of work. I have many buds that are as big or bigger as my hand. Quallity so far looks promising even thought there are shitty buds as well, but thats normal and oke. They have been cut freshly so I won't lose much weight when cutting. This will happen when cutting dry buds. The remaining small leafs on the wet buds will dry in with the buds and will be barely visible. More info soon.

She's becoming a very big lady and the smell it's amazing. A couple more weeks and then it's harvest time . Hope i can provide her a little bit more shelter for if the rain is there. ,,,🍀🙏🌞🤞

Steppes up nutes abit they Seem to likelike Wanted to wait a Day or 2 with the mainlining for the 2 note branches to develop abit more but went for it 2day anyway🤷‍♂️🏽(Day 15)21/08-19

Day 23 Flower yhea had to get the fabric out !!! burned and cut a few colas Today we did their last serious defoll Looking good and thriving Think them Bolting stage is over (I hope) Entering bulk stage I´ll be increasing my RH and decreasing VPD over the next few days for a period of 3 to 4 weeks (Bulk stage) I´ll be increasing potassium as well and no more tri-part Grow just tri-part Micros tri-part bloom and mono P mono K #Growerlove

Start of week 5 in flower. Thursday and I can see the buds getting bigger. Every morning I empty the reservoir of about 1 liter of solution and add 6 liters of fresh pH adjusted nutrients. I am hoping the video I take tomorrow on Sunday day 1 of week 6 will show changes. So far I am pleased. Tomorrow the beginning of week 6 I will be dropping the Diamond nectar and reducing the armour SI and increasing the Koolbloom liquid.

Freaked out this week cause I couldn't smell the plants anymore. Turns out I caught covid, yay! Not much content because I was resting up mostly. Getting plants ready for chop, many seed packs say you can chop by week 8 of flower - that's actually the earliest one can harvest. If given the time like a home grow, one can wait 1-2 weeks longer to harvest. Also in the cases of sativas like mine, they can flower for up to 12-16 weeks.

2018-03-13 Week 11 Day 1 As I mentioned last week, the girls are growing like crazy since I changed to 600W HPS,and even though they haven't grown so much higher, they are definetly wider because of LST. My growroom is only about 1.8m2, so now the girls are so wide that there's not enough space for them to get wider, so now I will let them stretch. Nr 1 is 43 cm Nr 2 is 44 cm 2018-03-14 Day 2 I LST'd the girls one last time and also defoliated them mildly so all the tops get as much light as possible, hopefully increasing the yield in the end. I also turn the girls 1/4 lap every day to ensure that all sides of them get as much exposure to light as possible, it would've been great to have some kind of turntable that turns the girls 1 lap in 12 hours,, but until I find out a device that does just that,I'll keep on doing it manually. Added some videos for you to enjoy. 2018-03-18 Day 6 Watering the girls with 2l of plain water (pH 5.8), the soil were dry after 3 days since they got water and nutes. I want to release the remaining dry nutes buried in the soil. Some of the girls got burnt leaves but not from nutes, but from the hps-lamp, they've stretched so much so I raised the lamp about 10 cm, but now I'll keep an eye on the distance between the lamp and canopy, don't want them to get burnt again. But lucky me, only leaves got burnt - no top got harmed 👍 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Strain information: The word synergy is a business term first quoted in the early eighties to describe mutual enhancement through interaction or cooperation, where the end result gained is greater than the sum of the parts used. What do synergy and the Crazy Cookies cannabis strain have to do with each other you may well ask? The parents of the forthrightly indica Crazy Cookies are marijuana royalty. OG Kush and Girl Scout Cookies. These strains of contemporary legend have been combined to cerebrum shattering effect. The cured flowers deliver a mouth-watering and couchlocking 24% THC. The initial delectable spacey upbeat onrush compliments of the Durban Poison coursing through the genes of the Cookies soon becomes a lush and rich, inescapably delicious body flux. There should be a picture of a Crazy Cookie nugget in the dictionary next to the word synergy. Crossing the OG back into the Cookies has amplified the psychoactive effects of the notorious lineage of both parents. This is an indica with a capital I. As a breeder it would be fair to assume that injecting more OG into the Cookies would result in an OG-dominant Cookie, or even close to a pure OG, but something else has happened. Some long dormant genetic switch has been flipped and a standalone indica has emerged whose spicy notes and earthy tones, hints of grape and horny pheromone are an absolute pleasure. Paying this breed some careful attention as it grows will reward you substantially, indoors or out. Typical hybrid vigour is shown throughout each grow phase. Stout plants to 80cm can be expected indoors and muscular examples with fluted stalks growing to two metres can be easily achieved outdoors. Good bracing is necessary as the flowers mature. With more than 500g at harvest per robust plant, colas can easily snap and twist branches. -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Trasplante a maceta y apical

Another 2 weeks into flower and Candy Cream Go Fast from Kannabia is blowing past all expectations and delivering a very quick (auto like flower period) but with strong female results. The way it's at to maturing these past 2 weeks is amazing. I've not been able to give my plants the greatest of care at the moment. But with Xpert Nutrients and Kannabia it's a combo that is very hard to get wrong. I'm getting a lovely finish (fade) and terpine profiles (smells) are astounding and uber sticky. All these Nutrients above were given separately over a 2 week period with water feeds in between each, 2 master bloom & calmag + Enzymes/root were used often too. Ph to 6.5-7 Ppm for bloom stayed 4-450ppm. Light lollipopping was done last week. Needed to allow air to flow through the un lst'ed branches and too much bud. I wish I'd given my plants more care. But, last 2 months have not been good. Crypto market has me in a real bind atm and having to actually work is killing me. Must be in the 6th week of flowering going into the 7th. Staying on what's above and making sure to keep the soil moist or not let it get to dry is paying off. DISCOUNT CODES 20% OFF KANNABIA & XPERT NUTRIENTS, with code:GGST 20% OFF ZAMNESIA WITH CODE: ZAMMIGROW2024 20% off Oringal Sensible Seeds with code: GGSTGD

this week, the girl's rings are obviously increasing :) I think there are 2-3 weeks left until the finish :) I have 30° heat in the tent, which the girl doesn't like, but she will endure it - she is strong:).

She’s looking good, smells amazing already and it going to be very dense bud!

ACTUALIZACIONES A DIARIO!! Miles de gracias al equipo de Royal Queen Seeds y a @James por proponerme esta aventura tan trepidante y poder conocer de cerca las nuevas F1 y sobre todo a la gran Titan F1. Espero que lo disfruteis y os sirva como referencia. ¿Qué piensas cuando lees la palabra “Titán”? Hay quienes la asocian con los hijos de Urano de la mitología griega. Otros saben que Titán es la luna más grande de Saturno. ¿Y entre los cultivadores de hierba? Estas personas reconocen a la Titan F1 como una variedad de marihuana con una genética de vanguardia. Se trata de uno de los primeros híbridos F1 autoflorecientes, y es una variedad pionera que ofrece productividad, resistencia y algo completamente nuevo. La Titan F1 deleitará tu olfato durante la fase de floración y más allá. Esta variedad autofloreciente ofrece un potente perfil de terpenos compuesto principalmente por mirceno, farneseno, ocimeno, pineno, bisabolol y limoneno. Gracias a MarsHydro 😊🙏 por darme la mejor luz que hay en el mercado. La marca numero uno en focos 💡, carpas de cultivo ⛺️, extractores 🌬️ y demás aparatos que necesitas para tu cultivo. Para esta aventura arrancaremos con 💡Mars Hydro TS 1000 Full Spectrum LED Grow Light 150W Regulable y 1 semilla autofloreciente a un ciclo de 20/4. Verdaderos 150w con este TS1000, la mejor luz de cultivo LED para principiantes. Ofrece una luz adecuada para 2-4 plantas 🌱. Su precio razonable, la marcada mejora del rendimiento y el control variable de la producción la hacen amigable para los nuevos cultivadores. Todo un tesoro para cualquier cultivador que este comenzando. Usaremos para esta aventura una carpa de 60x60x90, MarsHydro una carpa para los más exigentes.Con una solapa de cremallera mejorada, dobles cremalleras de metal con forro,reflectante diamante tipo Mylar, postes de metal para una estructura mas solida, no se puede pedir nada mas. Garantizando una respuesta en solo 24 horas tanto si has usado antes la marca como si no. 🌻🚀 Consigue tus semillas aqui: https://www.royalqueenseeds.es/semillas-de-marihuana-hibridas-f1/624-titan-f1.html 💡 MarsHydro TS1000: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PLY1WKK ⛺️ 60 x 60 x 90 MarsHydro: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081PN2QDN/ Septima semana de floracion, las planta ha terminado de estirar, las ramas laterales han estirando junto con la cola central y se muestran los futuros cogollos, es una planta muy compacta y he tenido que quitar alguna hoja baja para evitar la aparicion de algun hongo. Se muestra una gran cola principal. Es la genetica que mejor ha respondido, por no decir la mejor. Felicidades Royal Queen Seeds y MarsHydro 😁. Los cogollos han estirado muy rápido y se ha formado una larga cola principal con muchos cogollos en las ramas laterales, continua cargandose de resina. Las flores empiezan a engordar, queda poco para el lavado de raíces. 📆 Día 63 a 70: Riego con EC de 1050 a diario, los cogollos empiezan a madurar se acerca la cosecha, ha sido un cultivo muy rápido y sencillo.

"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).

This is week 9, and I’ve started dialing things down as we approach the final stage. I reduced the light intensity to around 600–650 PPFD to keep things a bit softer towards the end of flowering. From here on, it’s just a matter of maintaining stable conditions until harvest time 🌸✂️💪

Scrog

Thank you everybody who are commented on my diary all the advice you guys are awesome. This is her last week growing next week. We shop and I start a new diary once I decide what I’m gonna pop next.

All in all every strain is doing great! Blueberry is the closes to finishing followed by chemdawg and lastly the Somango I just flipped little over a week ago so still have a little while to go with her! Blueberry has a pungent and fresh berries/citrus aroma going on while the chemdawg has the infamous og odor no doubt og is related to it haha. Thanks for checking it out! XD ..sorry for the delayed update