The main buds are really starting to develop and it looks pretty healthy. Some rusty spots developing on some of the older fan leaves. Added a pick if anyone knows what it might be? Big fat calyxes starting to appear frosty with trichomes. Defoliated a few leaves, may have over watered trying to fix the cal mag issue and the damaged leaves were a bit wilted. Did one big final adjustment to her shape to open her up. Was concerned about how dense it was getting and light and air penetration with rainy weather coming as it buds out made me want to give her some breathing room.

AAAnd there you have it. A nice experience, my second time making seeds! I harvested the first day of week 15. A lot to say about this experiment. It came out awesome, lots of seeds (more than 100!) Wich I also tested and came out with the exact same phenotype. I added some more pictures of the outcome and of the seeds, cause I don't have much more data about the harvest! Sorry for the last time haha! Also! Leave a comment if you want to see more old diaries, I might have 4 or so documented like this, Including the first test of the seeds Wich you see some pics here 🤞.

Sticky beast is waiting for some good sunrays so she can break out of my garden!!😎👏👏👏 Garden is smelling real sweet too, thanks to her 😵👌 I love her structure, i have topped her, but LST was not that necessary.. only defoliation, a lil bit.. i love that bc i hate LST, (im not that good in it..😳) She turned out great, she grew open and wide.. just by herself. 😇👍(maybe also becouse i let her dance in the wind 😎 and move her around a lot) Lots of bad weather this week(cold and wet, she is in greenhouse a lot).. but luckily her buds are still healthy👌 And dont forget: FOR ALL MY GROWBRETHREN/SISTREN IS A DISCOUNT CODE: ZAMMIGD2023 happy growing for all ✊

Week 4 on the veg and growth has been slower than expected. Still incredibly healthy but I probably topped em all a little too early and it’s taken them some time to come back around in recovery. The strain itself is still a slow mover it seems but the uniformity in all the plants is a really good sign of consistency and stability. Well do some tie backs on em this week to spread out the shoots and see where we’re at for week 6. I’ll flip em as soon as I start to see pronounced vegetative maturity. Alls good here for now.

Plantitas sanas hoy se pasan a 12/12

Flowering Week 23: The Great Defoliation & Purple Hints Update: 17.08.2025 | Day 163 Hey Growmies, Week 23 was all about the snip-snip – gave both ladies a serious haircut and opened up them tight spaces. Airflow’s king now, and these girls are breathing easy. Here’s the wrap: Durban Poison – Cleaned & Gleaming After that defoliation, she’s standing tall like a proper little tree – clean stems, no clutter, just good light and air all through her core. The buds are frosting up with pistils that’s turning a soft, shy purple. Real pretty. Smell’s picking up too – still subtle, kinda old-school. Not like these new genetic gas-monsters. If I had to call it something? Flowery. Earthy-flowery. Simple. Honest. Blueberry – Tall, Late & Mysterious This girl’s still reaching – almost 2.20m now, though only three mains broke the 2m mark. Rest is hanging around 1.80m. Buds are forming slooow, pistils are shy. She’s blooming on her own damn schedule – way behind Durban. Started sexing at the same time, but now it’s like Durban’s sprinting and Blueberry’s strolling. Starting to sweat a little… if she’s too late, mold might sneak in when the autumn damp hits. We’ll see. Fingers crossed. What’s Next? Wait... Catch y’all next week. Stay easy. – Smoking_Joe_Frazier

Man I’m so excited!! Oh yea ! A little fruitie and a bit Funky!!

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.

FBT011 Northern Lights From Fastbuds 2nd week of flowering 29th December 2019 Well she's shot up a bit since last weeks update and now sits at 54cm from soil to tip. No noticeable aroma as of yet but there is some resin as the buds feel slightly sticky when gently rubbed. I fed her some Mr B's Green trees Bloom mix and a 1/4 tspoon of Great white. *******As a side note the two cuttings I took have definately taken as they have both started to show their preflowers and have some tiny new growth. So I mmediately sprayed with my STS Reversing Spray ******* Cheers for looking in and I'll be back next week in 2020.

we pass 5. week, in this week i been spred my girls and make some defoliation. she grow nicely week by week. in next week i will flip them on flower mode. tent is ollmost full

FBT5 in Mr. B's has been no trouble at all so far, still moist in there so i've not watered on day 5, spraying the soil with amino, did one foliar this week on day 5. Probably will fix the fan over the weekend so it's pointing straight up. FBT5 is an interesting one, vigorous in many ways, it seems to be working hard below grownd . anyway I'll try to get an in soil pH reading on the Mr. B's asap. but it will mostly be secondary nutrients and co2 from now on.

Passata anche la seconda settimana di fioritura🌻 le ragazze 🌱stanno bene💪 e sembrano gradire la loro dieta Plagron🍨...nel prossimi giorni quando inizieranno a nascere i primi boccioli ⚘️ vedremo se la mia impressione è esatta....🧐👍

We near!

She is coming to the end now. Big fat juicy buds and a crazy sweet smell. I alreadt know this will be a good one. I will chop her this week and then update with a harvest and smoke report in a few weeks.

Water week8/1

FASTBERRY (Fastbuds) 28 days from sprout. Easy nutrient feed at about quarter strength recommended dose. Tried some leaf tucking and pony tailing. She seems to respond well.