-Strain: Purple Lemonade - Fast Buds -Tent: 5x5 Gorilla Grow Tent -Lights: Budget LED Grow Lights 2 x 250 Watt LED Full Spec/Red Spec mixed boards -Light Cycle: 18/6 -Soil: Fox Farm -Air Circulation: AC Infinity Cloudline T4 Inline Duct Fan WECLOME BACK GROWMIES! Week 8 here with our GELATO AUTO by Fast Buds! January 14, 2020 (DAY 52) - Hey there growmies sorry for the one and only update this week, i got sick and just cant do it. i hope you all understand.

This is week 8 day 4 video. I have tried about 30g in testers rapid 1:05 dry. I’m waiting on seeds to finish. Plants are 7ft tall super cropped 3x on some branches and monsters just pop up. I highly don’t recommend super ripping or manipulating breaking stems. You will have jungles and delicious harvest. Some tops were touching doides so lights were raised to maximum tent ceiling. Every day is 2tbsp soluble pk into 5 gal water, 1/2-1tbsp folvic acid, sometimes humid acid, sometimes fishsh!t, sometimes microbial mass. 2 times only I added 1tbsp of magnesium phosphate into5gal. Every watering in 5gal has 2tbsp of carbs, I don’t use black molasses but it’s bluesky organic booster. Buds smell sweet, 2 and 3 are where the terps are but no1 is frosty af. 2 is og. As numbers left to right. Split between the middle bar. Running about 840w. 640is my reg along with 5x 20w blurples and my friends 100w “lm301h” but I beg to differ. My 640w is lm301h. I wish I had more light but I am not a facility. I just have a 4x8x7h. I’m very happy with this grow. Everything is to the max been flushing last week and it’s burning my plants lol. Just 1tbsp ph down. I have not been using ph down in my entire flower because the soluble pk 1-1.5 tbsp per 5gal water is enough to lower and make things happy. Every day is watering and every plant gets 1gal water daily. They could do a lot more but I don’t have the space as you can see ❤️

6/6 day 52of veg 6/6 day 10 of flowering 2nd week of flowering I put 1 of the 4 Runtz plants into flower back in week 6 to see how it would be I put a net on it so after 2 week thought about how big the other 3 plants after vegging for 14-16 week I had to buy a new bigger tent *on the way

Removed some lower branches at the end of week 9. ✂️ Things were getting a little tightly packed in the flower room. 🤷‍♂️🏽🌿 Both plants are showing signs of female sex.😎 That about some up week 1 of flower. 🌺

19 de Abril: Poda de bajos y cambio de fotoperiodo a 12/12 22 de Abril: Riego con calcio, es algo que no tengo super probado, pero viene dando muy buenos resultados. Las próximas semanas se aplica foliar. 23 de Abril: Pulverizado de hechizo bloom, es una fuente de nutrientes y micro vida, también hace de bioestimulante. Las primeras 4 semanas de flora se pulveriza, el resto de semanas se usa en riego. 25 de Abril: Riego con BioAtomic, un bioestimulante biomineral que me ha dado buenos resultados, y quería terminar el frasco. Esta es la última aplicación que voy a hacer. Además agregamos la segunda malla scrog, aunque todavía solo llegan pocas ramas. En los 5 días que lleva de flora las plantas pegaron un buen estirón, pero sin descontrolarse, creo que no voy a tener problemas por ese lado. Las plantas se ven super sanas y creciendo relativamente parejo. Tema aparte, sumé una automática en el fondo de la carpa a la derecha. estuvo 6 semanas en exterior y nunca floreció, ni se la ve muy bien. Hablé con el proveedor y dice que es un problema de fertilización y luz, no de estabilización de la semilla, yo opino lo contrario, las hojas vienen saliendo deformes y nunca vi una autofloreciente vegetar 6 semanas sin indicios de preflora. La metí al indoor para ver qué ocurre, y si tengo razón, servirá como prueba para que me repongan la semilla. La voy a seguir fertilizando con short flowering de green house feeding. Les voy air contando que ocurre también con esta planta, y más adelante voy a hacer un seguimiento con las otras autoflorecientes que todavía no germiné.

Plants are looking great. Wedding cake smells like heaven and is frosty and sticky. It is not ready for harvest though. Trichomes are milky but found no amber coloured trichomes. I'll give her another week. Did some defoliation on all three plants and Another topping for SL. Wedding cake has a few big buds on the lower parts of the plant that are really close to each other. I had to bend them away from each other to avoid bud rot and help with ventilation. Additionally I had to pick out small black flies (Gewittertierchen) out of the Buds. I cut out the small buds of Hype1 with no chance for sunlight. Hopefully she will focus on the main buds on the top. Don't worry keep growing;)

OCTOBER 20 (DAY 24): Week four has begun, and I am now so completely full of questions. I’ve got preflowers on at least 2 of the 3 plants, the terminal nodes (is that right?) on all three are looking... uh... busy... lots of long, skinny growth coming out of the bud sites. I am wondering if this means it’s time to start transitioning to bloom nutes, or if I’m a little early yet. On the subject of bloom nutes..... wtf? There are so many options, and it’s hard to tell what can be used with other things and what products are supposed to be direct competitors. This is definitely going to require some trial and error. I’m also not sure what to do about the lights. Because I’m using LST on some but not all of the plants, one is significantly taller than the others (and thus closer to the lights)... this looks like a grow question. OCTOBER 21 (DAY 25): After dealing with a runaway heat problem in my tent and major height discrepancies between the LST’ed plants and the control plant, I decided to reorganize the tent... again. I’ve got my tiny tent in a nook in my bathroom, and there aren’t any ports for intake fans at the bottom of the tent (just windows), so I had been running a small intake fan shoved right up between one of the mesh intake windows and the wall. That didn’t give a ton of open air for the intake fan to draw from, so I rotated the tent 90 degrees so the intake fan has the open room air to pull from. I also raised the LST’ed plants by about 6” so the canopies of all three plants will sit roughly equal. We’ll see if this works. Τoday I fed the plants again. I’m not sure if I am going to prefer to go the FF Bembe route or the AN Big Bud/Bud Candy/Overdrive route, so I am doing a side-by-side on my LST’ed plants. Plant 3 received Bud Candy today, while plant 1 will get Bembe starting next week. I have only been feeding the plants nutes once a week. I’m wondering if I should step that up or just stick to once a week unless the plants start squawking. Any feedback would be much appreciated. TL;DR: To flower or not to flower... to feed or not to feed... to water or not to water... these are the questions. Control plant = winning. ***************************** LST Kit Info ***************************** In case anyone is interested in the LST kit I am using: https://www.etsy.com/listing/831218796/growth-manipulation-kit-for-low-stress Engineered Essentials offers these in two sizes — regular and seedling/clone. I think these autos are small enough that I should have gone with the seedling size, but I have some on the way and will report back once I give them a shot and can compare.

The cannabis strain Grape Guava can be a purple strain, depending on its specific phenotype and genetic makeup. While not all phenotypes of Grape Guava are purple, some variations, such as the Zatix Grape Guava, are noted for their striking purple appearance due to the genetic expression of anthocyanin pigments. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKdVmdoKJ5k In a garden of green, Grape Guava gleams, With its fruity aroma, enchanting dreams. Clusters of grapes, guava's sweetness ignite, A strain so divine, in purple and white. Euphoria whispers, a lush fruity haze, Grape Guava's embrace, a tranquil daze. Off and away.@1400ppm. The increased CO2 allows plants to thrive at higher temperatures, which in turn necessitates higher humidity to maintain the ideal VPD for healthy growth and transpiration. 80F -5F = 75F LST with 70% RH = 0.72 kPa. Higher temperatures and humidity promote rapid growth, nutrient uptake, and photosynthesis while maintaining a lower stress level. Temperature influences the rate of enzymatic reactions involved in aerobic respiration. Enzymes, such as those involved in glycolysis, the Krebs cycle, and the electron transport chain, work most efficiently at an optimal temperature range. In low temperatures, enzymatic activity will slow down, thus reducing the rate of aerobic respiration. In high temperatures, enzymes can become denatured, thus impairing their function and stopping the process of aerobic respiration. Glucose is the primary fuel for aerobic respiration. The rate of aerobic respiration increases with the availability of glucose, as it is the starting point for glycolysis. If glucose levels are low, cells may rely on alternative energy sources such as fatty acids or amino acids , but these processes may yield less ATP or be less efficient. To determine this effect, carbon dioxide volume was measured (as carbon dioxide is an output of aerobic respiration) 18/6 with the 6 being IR. The near infrared (IR-a) borders around 700nm up to 1400nm @ photon par flux density of 1.8 instead of darkness, keeping temps overnight a neat 77F-80F. Think of my tent as a lung. What goes in must come out. When the rate of air going out exceeds the amount of air coming in, it creates a negative pressure. Tent concaves (bends in). If set up correctly, your RH will begin to drop slowly to the desired level you set, and the extraction turns off when it reaches desired% RH. The plant, as it performs cellular respiration, will always be releasing more water into the air, so the RH% of the tent overnight will always increase, so long as oxidative phosphorylation is occurring. As soon as the RH% creeps back up to 55%, the extraction turns back on, over and over. This creates a strong pressure differential which will work wonders on your grow. Replicating high and low-pressure fronts in nature. Critical for oxygen diffusion at the critical time of peak cellular respiratory function.. Moisture will not transfer from a saturated atmosphere to another if that air is already at or above its saturation point, meaning the air can't hold any more water vapor. Once I understood that water is produced as a by product during cellular respiration, specifically at the very end of the electron transport chain (ETC) where electrons are finally transferred to molecular oxygen, the higher the RH of the air, the more resistance there is for more moisture to be added to that environment, and effects the ease with which it does so. But none of that water comes from the pot; it's pulled from the air. If you run high daytime RH, your medium/pot is 100% reliant on transpirational root pull to move water. ZERO evaporation happens across the atmosphere if the tent air has high RH%, the medium cannot release its water through evaporation. Once a canopy develops, light no longer slowly wicks and evaporates from the topsoil. The Soil-Plant-Atmosphere Continuum (SPAC) describes the continuous pathway and process of water movement, driven by a gradient in water potential, from the soil, through the plant's roots, stem, and leaves, and finally evaporating into the atmosphere through transpiration. There is evaporation, there is transpiration, and then there is evapotranspiration; Evapotranspiration (ET) is the combined total of two processes: evaporation (water lost directly from soil and surface water into the atmosphere) and transpiration (water released from plants to the atmosphere through their leaves). Evapotranspiration represents the total amount of water that moves from the medium into the air. There is no such thing as a medium with too much water, only a medium that retains too much for too long. The water must always flow efficiently from one atmosphere(Medium) to another(Air) in a timely manner. Moisture is a critical factor for bacterial growth and decay. Dictating how long it's allowed to sit in any one location for any given period is a key preferred control. To ensure a net reduction in a bacterial population, the rate of removal (ET) must exceed the rate of bacterial growth (decay rate), which is often modeled as a growth rate for the specific bacterium under the given conditions. By optimizing daytime VPD, we also optimize conditions for bacterial growth to explode exponentially above 77°F.. If water is allowed to sit in a medium without an escape within a timeframe, nothing good will happen. IF High RH is maintained overnight as well as during the day, placing 100% of water movement at the behest of daytime transpiration, roots can only pull where they can reach, and if soil is compressed above a certain point, moisture will become trapped in a medium with no way of moving day or night. This will begin the countdown for decay to take hold. When water stagnates in a medium, it loses oxygen, creating anaerobic conditions that foster the growth of harmful microorganisms like bacteria and fungi, which can produce toxins and disease vectors. Thigmomorphogenesis, the process by which plants respond to mechanical stimuli like touch by altering their growth and development, results in significant morphological changes to improve survival against mechanical perturbations. This complex response involves sensing touch and initiating physiological and genetic responses, leading to changes in form and structure over days or weeks. The process is triggered by physical forces such as wind, rain, or touch. Plants adapt to these stimuli by changing their shape and structure, which may include slower growth, thickened stems, or altered leaf development. Plants possess sophisticated mechanisms to detect even subtle mechanical stimuli and initiate responses. A variety of molecules, including calcium ions, jasmonates, ethylene, and nitric oxide, are involved in signaling these mechanical inputs. Touch can induce the expression of genes that encode proteins for calcium sensing, cell wall modification, and defense mechanisms. A plant exposed to constant wind may become shorter and sturdier. A plant that is touched frequently might grow more slowly to conserve energy and develop thicker cell walls. These changes increase a plant's resilience and ability to survive in harsh environments. Let's get Thiggy with it.

A week have passed since transplanting the clones into their new coco/perlite mix. The plants are showing exactly what you expect at this stage: slow visible growth but strong root development underneath. They’re still in their recovery phase, adjusting to the larger pot and redirecting their energy into building a solid root system. A few lower leaves are slightly yellowing, which is normal after transplant stress. New growth tips are starting to appear, the structure is becoming more defined, and the plants look healthy overall. Staying patient — the real takeoff is coming soon.

1st day of week 7 fresh air exchange, deleafed to get more light and airflow then fed. 3rd day of week 7 fed just water (Ran out of feed)

today Day 22 and Hilde still goes well 🙏 Speedrun video 21 Days 😉 Day23 was cloudy an alot of rain 😩 Day24 was cloudy and alot of rain 😳

Have done some more LST and defoliated this week. Its another slow grow, but not seeing any health issues so far.

Last week 🤞 Water only 💦

Day 35 start week 6 Pretty much everything stayed same. They are starting to run out of room in tent.

my northern lights seem to fly .... i am amazed by their structure ... I'm starting to use some of the techniques I learned from you ... I hope everything will be fine and above all I hope to pull out some nice bombs ... I also bought a ph reducer and a good GHE tester ... because for my girls I want only the best .. a greeting to all the friends who follow me ... happy and abundant crops

The Weather is getting better the Temps are rising and she grows faster now. I would they shes happy to get direct sunlight. At the End of this Week i saw the first since of flowering. Keep Growing

Day 53 of flower and she’s definitely approaching the end, as this strain runs for anywhere from 56-70 days. Odor is very strong with some serious gassy orange soda terps. Most all of the trichomes are still looking hazy to milky white. No amber showing yet except for on some of the sugar leaves, which should make for some nice heavy edibles once I process trim. Have been flushing for the last few weeks and will continue until harvest. Can’t wait to give this pretty lady the chop.