Hallo zusammen 🤙. Sie wächst sehr schön und macht keine Probleme.

Foliar fed shogun sumo boost yesterday

This one is definitely taking her time but its looking like the end product will be worth the wait, im getting an almost lemony aroma from the tent now. Edit: 5 days on I've just started the flush since trichs are turning cloudy.

it's hotter and the heat is staying here for two more months hope theese plants make it thru

Really starting to take off. Hoping they settle out but I am off on vacation next week gonna let them run while I'm gone to test my setup. Wish them luck! Just worried about humidity.

She getting real big since I first started her

She didn’t skip a beat since she was mainlined. Judging by how close her nodes grow, I will Either give her a traditional mainline or a flux style. Leaning towards traditional. So far, so good.

DAY63 WEEK9 = Impatiently waiting till harvest time 😘 Beautiful to enjoy the plants ripening and finishing 😍😍😍 Congrats to BIOTABS, because their tablest are really superb 🙏 I'm super satisfied 😁😁😁 Wedding Gelato, Triple G, and Cookies Gelato are completely ripe.👍😃 All their buds are rockhard 💪😖 👉 Cookies Gelato have become completely purple with beautiful piled buds and orange pistils, and looks delicious. Smells of berries and 😵 👉 Wedding Gelato has round buds (easy to trim) with mixed colors : gold, brass, brown, yellow, red and green colors with orange pistils 😊 Fine and accessible smell, pleasant and no overbearing 😄 🙏 👉 Triple G will be the hardest to trim, because of her quirky shaped buds. She has big internodes and big buds scattered across her tall sturdy stalks. Beautiful buds, a pleasure for the eyes. Her smell is pungent, sometimes narcotic even. She will get you stoned in no time 😋 👉 Liberty Haze could have another week. But she lacks some nitrogen; watch her leaves turn yellow, and make her taste sooo soft 👻 She hasn't any purple or red colors, only green and yellow. Her buds are leafy, not that firm, but volumineus. She's soo sweet, with hints of lime. 😘 I defoliated the plants in week 3 because I had to treat the plants against spider mites. Because of this, the plants had fewer leaves, the light could penetrate much deeper and now the lower buds are ripen as well 🙏. I will continue to apply this technique in the future. 👍👍👍 These will be the last pictures before harvesting 😍

Week 6 Summary: First off, Happy New Year!! Ciao 2018, may 2019 be filled with peace, love, joy and dank buds 😄😉 Day 36-39: Started off nice well this week, considering the amount of defoliation I did on day 35. Some more stretching going on here but not too much, except 4AM3 has a central shoot I couldn't find a spot to LST that just started to shoot right up lol. Starting to show some nice frost on Day 36 too. 4AM2 is already starting to plump up a bit, don't think will get much more stretch on that one, seems like it will probably harvest the least. I might have overdone the defoliation on it on Day 35 lol. 4AM2 is the one I decided to top for the hell of it anyway because it had a really wierd growth mutation. Still, with less main tops to produce it might be the best bud of them all 😅 Day 37-42: Day 37 is when I started seeing a deficiency I thought might have been magnesium on 4AM1. Pictures to show up top. Since their next feeding wasn't scheduled until day 42 I waited. Day 38 and it had spread a little on the same plant, and typical calmag deficiencies started slowly showing up on a few other plants(really tiny amounts). I posted on reddit and pretty much confirmed my suspiscion of a calmag deficiency. Since I am watering twice a week, once with calmag ph'd to 6.8-6,9 and once with blume nutes ph'd at 6.3-6,5. The calmag feeding was done on day 42( as scheduled at full strength this time so hopefully the problem will go away. 4AM2 hasn't been watered yet, pot didn't feel completely light yet(plus she had the most runoff last feed), will get her dose tomorrow. P.S. Really starting to smell like sweet berries! Mmm.. 😍 On to week 7!

Growing beautifully

High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.

Buenas a tod@s! Otra semana más! 28/4/26 Vamos a todo trapo le daré últimos riegos de abono esta semana y la siguiente semana espero meterle un corte a las pequeñas huelen fenomenal! Va madurando y finalizando con un olor bien rico a cítricos con madera recién cortada que tiene que ser una locura en el paladar! Estrictamente daré 10 días de riego solo con agua y finalizaré con hielo.

Loads of defoliation this week...bushy plant.... I want to avoid small nugs at the bottom

The girls are settling beautifully into flower 🌿✨ — stretch is in full swing 📈🌳 and bud sites are stacking up everywhere 👀💎. The canopy is lush and even 🍃, catching light perfectly ☀️.No signs of thrips or stress

Week 6, here we are.... finally after 6 months of repeated losses and lessons, we've finally made it! Secret ingredient that no one told me. Uv sterilizer and pythoff Overall I think Grape og is doing well. Notice that in early veg she handles stress, topping and lst nicely but further down in veg she had more temperament, showed more nute burn, slow growth from defoil and topping but bounces back rather quickly even after a complete cut down to her bareback of stems. Light went from 60% to 90% over Week 5 to Week 6, next 2 days she'll be at 100% ready for flowering. 2 set AC infinity bar lights will go in over this week as well as my scrogg net. Nutrients this round Floramax veg1 Floramax organabud Floramax flowering enhancer ( 1/4 ) dose Flairforms roots Sleepz with the fishes ( pythoff ) Cyco platinum series silica Floramax Calmag E.c 2.2 Ph 5.9-6 Will continue to keep doing lst and defoilation. I like to keep my lst on for my whole grow due to the way I LST, this will be the first time using a scrogg net to help with spread management, if I feel confident and comfortable ill remove lst in later flower if scrogg net will hold in place other the lady will curl in on herself

Info: Unfortunately, I had to find out that my account is used for fake pages in social media. I am only active here on growdiaries. I am not on facebook instagram twitter etc All accounts except this one are fake. Harvest day 69 since time change to 12/12 hrs. Hey everyone Finally it was time for the lady to be harvested :-). The buds smell very tasty and look very good so I'm really excited. The trichomes are 70% milky and 30% amber. As always, it came to the darkroom 48 hours before harvest :-). There it will now remain after harvesting at 62% humidity for 8-12 days before it is put into the jars for fermentation with 62% boveda packs :-). As usual, the last update will come after the fermentation. Until then, I wish you all the best and stay healthy 🙏🏻 You can buy this Strain at : https://sweetseeds.es/de/cream-caramel/ Type: Cream Caramel ☝️🏼 Genetics: Blue Black x Maple Leaf Indica x White Rhino 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Bio Bizz Coco ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.8 .

Plant is 8 weeks from seed today, stretching has now stopped and she is starting to fill out now. It looks like the feed will sit at 2ml A +B to a litre as she hasn't shown signs of wanting anything more although pk 13/14 will be added in roughly 3 weeks time. She's been drinking a lot more last few days

Almost an Automatic Run no issues,.thanks to fast Buds really nice Strain 🏻 Bio Tabs and bionova is also a perfect Match, the ladies never suffered 🏻🏻 To be updated once everything is dried. Thanks to everyone having an eye on my diaries❤️❤️❤️

Harvest was