Happy 4th everyone 🎆. I just returned from a 4 day family trip to Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg. I love that place and we had a lot of fun. The girls are doing great. I filled the reservoir before I left and it's was 1/4 remaining when I returned. That's one big advantage using the auto pots. If i was manual watering, i would be able to miss watering them more than a day. The posted pictures are 7 days from the last week photos. I also took a couple videos. With this being the beginning of week 5, I increased my bloom to 12ml per gallon. It's usually 9ml. I also increased my koolbloom from 3ml to 5ml per gallon. I'll go back to 9 and 3 on week 6. Thanks for looking and till next week 🙌 😀

The plant grew easily enough, with a few bouts of deficiencies, but it hermed out on me and basically wasted 11 weeks on me. Hopefully the fucking thing didnt compromise the other plants i had with it

—SETUP— .BOSSLED LED 1800W full spectrum, real power consumption is +-250W. .Grow space 60X100X200(a simple shower box. .AN nutes and other simple additives. .Grow medium is 60% peat, 30% perlite, 10% organic correction(worm castings), 5 gallon fabric pots(18l). —BRIEF— Hi there, I have tried already done this genetic outdoors, in poor lighting and a general purpose nute from Neudorff, yielded 25g dry, in 3gallon pots same medium. So this is a good experiment, lets see indoors how she will compare. —GERMINATION— My germination process always start by scarifying the seeds, i created a little tool for that. I just a little container with sandpaper walls. Shake gently for about 60 secs+, this allows for the water to penetrate better in the seed shell, once you soak. Then i soak overnight from 12 to 20 hours max. From there i either plant straight or use the paper towel method to see the tap root before. If you are a bit on the impatient side seen the tap root is advisable so you see some movement before planting. Lol! —ROYAL QUEEN SEEDS . QUICK ONE . INFO — Chose this strain because is basic and I have to travel for a month soon, and someone else is going to take care for this time. :) Most of our autoflowering feminized strains are easy to grow. This one, however, is so easy to grow that we had to call it Easy Bud. Easy Bud is very similar to the autoflowering strain White Dwarf. THC: 12% CBD: Low Yield Indoor : 275 - 325 gr/m2 Yield Outdoor: 30 - 80 gr/plant Height Indoor: 50 - 60 cm Height Outdoor: 60 - 110 cm Flowering: 5 - 7 weeks Harvest month: 8-9 weeks after sprouting Genetic Background: White Indica x Ruderalis Type: Sa 15% In 55% Ru 30% Effect: Physical Climate: Mild —RQS EASY BUD GERMINATION UPDATE— My mood said to me to plant straight, so scarify > soak 18 hours +- > plant straight. Seedlings look a bit odd, this one with a purple center, let's give her some days in and see what happens next.

d39 ya no me caben dentro del Indoor, debajo del foco pequeño que tengo. Todavía se espera lluvia para la semana que viene, pero no caben y temo que alguna se ponga a florar por estrés, entonces las sacaré al exterior y las aclimataré. d40 Las he sacado a exterior , no les da mucho el sol, están a media sobra, esperemos que no se pongan a florar debido al cambio de fotoperiodo, son menos horas que en el Indoor, podía pasar, lo bueno es que las hemos sacado y ahora cada día están aumentando las horas de luz, mas o menos cada día tenemos 2 minutos más de sol, uno por la mañana y otro por la noche, amanece antes y se va más tarde poco a poco, si se adaptan bien, van a crecer mucho, pero si se ponen a floración veremos que hacemos, esperemos que no pase. Se le han puesto unas piedras para que se aguante la maceta, es de 2LT y con que haga viento la maceta se va al suelo y no queremos que pase eso. También se ha quitado el primer par de nodos LBP(Lower Branch Pruning), que normalmente salen ramas que no llegan a ser gran cosa. Se han quemado del sol, se ve que les da directo y no lo han soportado y se han secado, la tierra esta bastante seca al igual que muchas hojas, por suerte me he dado cuenta al cabo de unas horas, no esperaba que el sol ya pegase tan fuerte, las he cambiado de sitio y se han puesto donde no da el sol directo en ningún momento del día y están solamente a la sombra. Se han regado con un poquito de agua para que se recuperen, les he puesto una maceta más grande por fuera para que si diese el sol, que no le de a la maceta de dentro(2L) que es más pequeña y se calientan las raíces. d42 Se han regado y añadido aminoácidos(más Pro XXL 42% Aminoácidos) ya que eso ayudará a que la planta se recupere, por la tarde-noche les da el sol, no hay otro sitio que le de menos el sol directo, se han secado un pelín más la hojas, pero los brotes nuevos están blanditos y parece que las plantas seguirán creciendo bien.

Okay heute startet Woche 3 den Main Bud ein wenig runter gebunden und den Ec Wert erhöht. Wurzeln sind schon einige im Wasser

Hello guys, Hope you are doing good. Second week of flowering and what a beautiful stretch she got almost 20 cm ! but it's now over since 1/2 days. Before starting the third week of flowering I like to defoliate a bit as you can see into the pictures. Not big defoliation but enough to keep that energy on the flower and enough leaves to power that beautiful machine. I also started to use the PK BOOSTER following the recommandation by GHSC. She start to smell as well, when I was cutting her leaves that smell was playing with my nose and let's be honest it kinda made my day. Hope you like it, don't hesitate to follow the tutorial and update on my IG. Take care Sawyer

Going nice;)))))

Very happy with the yield which was close to a gram per watt used with a quite low yielding strain and that was with a very very close trim job. Could easily have been a gram a watt had I not trimmed it for a top shelf look. Quality was as usual 10/10 with runtz muffin which I have come to expect. Such amazing phenos to be found.

Very satisfied with this week girls looking strong and healthy going into Bloom also ethos genetics get back at me I need to know if you ever had a problem with one of your seeds just won’t to know no fussing it’s all lov

🌟 Welcome to the TrolMaster Chronicles: Seed to Harvest Adventure! 1st run🌟 Hey, Grow Fam! It’s DogDoctor here, and I’m thrilled to kick off this exciting new series with you. Today marks the beginning of our journey through the TrolMaster sponsorship, and we’re diving right into the heart of the action with germination and unboxing. 🌱✨ We’re starting strong with the Germination Station by @thecannakan, a game-changer for this process. I’ll be showing you all the details as we delve deep into every aspect of our grow adventure. Here’s today’s lineup for the germination extravaganza: 1️⃣ Mandarin Squeeze - Terpyz Mutant Genetics. 🌈 One seed germinated. 2️⃣ Punch Pie RQS and Tyson 2.0 Genetics. 🍰 One seed germinated. 3️⃣ RS11 by Kannabia Seeds. 🚀 One seed germinated. 4️⃣ Green Papaya by Super Sativa Seed Club. 🍍 Tester unreleased seed, one germinated. 5️⃣ Gorilla Mellon by Fast Buds. 🍉 Two seeds, one germinated (the first one didn’t make it). 6️⃣ Tropical Smoothies - Tried all seeds from the pack, but unfortunately, none germinated. 🌴 We’re also using the complete organic mineral line from @aptusholland, which includes top-notch nutrients to ensure our plants get the best start possible. 🌿✨ Plus, we’ve got the new ProMix Mycorrhizae soil, which will help create a thriving root environment. 🌱 Throughout this journey, I’ll be breaking down every step, sharing tips, and keeping it real with both the successes and challenges. I’m excited to share this adventure with you, and there’s so much more to come! For more in-depth coverage and exclusive content, make sure to check out my YouTube channel and subscribe—where you’ll find full video breakdowns, detailed insights, and more. 🌟🎥 Follow me on Instagram for additional exclusive updates and behind-the-scenes peeks that you won’t find anywhere else! 📸✨ Your support means the world to me, and I can’t wait to have you along for every step of this amazing journey. Let’s grow together and make some magic happen! #TrolMasterChronicles #SeedToHarvest #GrowDiaries #GrowJourney #TrolMaster #TheCannakan #GrowLife #PlantAdventure #HighFrequency #PositiveVibes #GrowWithMe #SubscribeNow #ExclusiveContent #AptusHolland #ProMixMycorrhizae P.S. 🌟💚 I want to take a moment to express just how honored and grateful I am to be the first TrolMaster Maverick. This opportunity is a dream come true, and I’m beyond excited to embark on this journey with all of you. Being a part of this incredible community and pushing the boundaries of indoor horticulture with TrolMaster and ThinkGrowLED is a privilege I don’t take lightly. 🙌 A massive shoutout and thank you to the entire TrolMaster and ThinkGrow team for believing in me and supporting this adventure. Your trust and support mean the world to me, and I promise to give it my all to make this journey as amazing as possible. 🌟🙏 Thank you, Grow Fam, for being here from the start. Your encouragement and enthusiasm fuel my passion and make every step of this journey worth it. Here’s to making magic happen together and to many more incredible milestones ahead. Let’s grow, learn, and shine! 🌱✨ With all my heart,Growers Love and thank you. 💚 #FirstMaverick #TrolMasterFamily #ThinkGrowLED #GratefulHeart #GrowTogether #MakingMagic Lets Play a game , FB Gorilla Melon Jump in to the future, can you guess the week ? Let me know in the comments before we get there , this is just for fun Lets Grow 💚💚💚 Growers Love everyone 💚💚💚

Girls.nearly ther will be chopping down next.few days

THC building up bud growth is good. Had to move into a room as space was running out due to growth

Gorilla Jealousy F1 has been going great. She is still bulking. The colas are super frosty and have that earthy smell I have seen in over Gorilla strains I have grown. Looks like she has about 2 weeks left roughly without closer examination. Everything has been. Going really well. Thank you Seedsman, and Spider Farmer. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱❄️ Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 https://www.seedsman.com/?a_aid=Mrsour420. This is my affiliate link to seedsman. Thank you Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

Hey guys! New week, here we are! As always, every Sunday is cleaning day. Took everything again from the tent, washed the saucers. Was also time to cut down some leaves as it was starting to look very bushy and hard for the light to get through it. During that time, came across with some bugs under the foliage, which isn't a great sign for sure. Not to mention the fruit flies that move in and are making my life a little chaos. Reducing now the RH a bit, and watering now on every 72h instead of 48h to keep the grow as dry as possible. Increasing the ventilator speed was another attempt, it so much air circulating should be hard for them to make a living inside. Just put now more of those fly traps and will add a couple glasses of cider vinegar here and there, as it attracts most of the flying things with success. Note that some plants are yellowing and that's never a good sign. Though for few weeks it was Nitrogen deficiency, but after increasing it and the CalMag values, the problem persists, so I'm inclined for something bug related. Besides that, temps are still very stable, RH was changed, now to 40% tops, and the light went a little lower to get it closer to the plants - always with the light burn effect in mind. 40cm is the line between the tops and the lamp. Flowering is looking good, buds are forming well and seems that's gonna be a good ending if I can keep the bugs under control. She's on pre-flower, switched the nutrients and increased a bit the feeding volume. That's all folks, have a great week

The buds have gotten a bit fatter since last week 😼Im very happy so far. I did over feed them a bit a couple of days ago, probably for the excess PK13/14. You can see some of the leaves have burnt tips. Well now ive ran out of CANNABOOST and decided to replice it with Canadian Xpress Headmasta, ive read great things about this booster and its also much cheaper :)) Peace

Metals in general reflect all of the light energy that comes onto them but copper doesn't reflect all of them. It absorbs part of the spectrum. It absorbs the blue part of the light and maybe some of the green light and reflects all the coppery colored light which comes back into our eyes. That's what happens with the metal. In compound copper sulfate, the blue color is due to the light energy being used to promote or excite electrons that are in the atom of the copper when it's combined with other things such as the sulfate or carbonate ions and so on. In solution what you actually have - in the same way when you dissolve salt in water you end up with sodium ions and chloride ions not bound together any longer as they are in the crystals but surrounded by water - the water interacts with the copper ions. The color that you see isn't really copper sulfate, it's copper ions surrounded by lots of water. The green pigment in leaves is chlorophyll, which absorbs red and blue light from sunlight. Therefore, the light the leaves reflect is diminished in red and blue and appears green. The molecules of chlorophyll are large (C55H70MgN4O6). They are not soluble in the aqueous solution that fills plant cells. Instead, they are attached to the membranes of disc-like structures, called chloroplasts, inside the cells. Chloroplasts are the site of photosynthesis, the process in which light energy is converted to chemical energy. In chloroplasts, the light absorbed by chlorophyll supplies the energy used by plants to transform carbon dioxide and water into oxygen and carbohydrates, which have a general formula of Cx(H2O)y. In this endothermic transformation, the energy of the light absorbed by chlorophyll is converted into chemical energy stored in carbohydrates (sugars and starches). This chemical energy drives the biochemical reactions that cause plants to grow, flower, and produce seed. Chlorophyll is not a very stable compound; bright sunlight causes it to decompose. To maintain the amount of chlorophyll in their leaves, plants continuously synthesize it. The synthesis of chlorophyll in plants requires sunlight and warm temperatures. Therefore, during summer chlorophyll is continuously broken down and regenerated in the leaves. Another pigment found in the leaves of many plants is carotene. Carotene absorbs blue-green and blue light. The light reflected from carotene appears yellow. Carotene is also a large molecule (C40H36) contained in the chloroplasts of many plants. When carotene and chlorophyll occur in the same leaf, together they remove red, blue-green, and blue light from sunlight that falls on the leaf. The light reflected by the leaf appears green. Carotene functions as an accessory absorber. The energy of the light absorbed by carotene is transferred to chlorophyll, which uses the energy in photosynthesis. Carotene is a much more stable compound than chlorophyll. Carotene persists in leaves even when chlorophyll has disappeared. When chlorophyll disappears from a leaf, the remaining carotene causes the leaf to appear yellow. A third pigment, or class of pigments, that occur in leaves are the anthocyanins. Anthocyanins absorb blue, blue-green, and green light. Therefore, the light reflected by leaves containing anthocyanins appears red. Unlike chlorophyll and carotene, anthocyanins are not attached to cell membranes but are dissolved in the cell sap. The color produced by these pigments is sensitive to the pH of the cell sap. If the sap is quite acidic, the pigments impart a bright red color; if the sap is less acidic, its color is more purple. Anthocyanin pigments are responsible for the red skin of ripe apples and the purple of ripe grapes. A reaction between sugars and certain proteins in cell sap forms anthocyanins. This reaction does not occur until the sugar concentration in the sap is quite high. The reaction also requires light, which is why apples often appear red on one side and green on the other; the red side was in the sun and the green side was in shade. During summer, the leaves are factories producing sugar from carbon dioxide and water using by the action of light on chlorophyll. Chlorophyll causes the leaves to appear green. (The leaves of some trees, such as birches and cottonwoods, also contain carotene; these leaves appear brighter green because carotene absorbs blue-green light.) Water and nutrients flow from the roots, through the branches, and into the leaves. Photosynthesis produces sugars that flow from the leaves to other tree parts where some of the chemical energy is used for growth and some is stored. The shortening days and cool nights of fall trigger changes in the tree. One of these changes is the growth of a corky membrane between the branch and the leaf stem. This membrane interferes with the flow of nutrients into the leaf. Because the nutrient flow is interrupted, the chlorophyll production in the leaf declines and the green leaf color fades. If the leaf contains carotene, as do the leaves of birch and hickory, it will change from green to bright yellow as the chlorophyll disappears. In some trees, as the sugar concentration in the leaf increases, the sugar reacts to form anthocyanins. These pigments cause the yellowing leaves to turn red. Red maples, red oaks, and sumac produce anthocyanins in abundance and display the brightest reds and purples in the fall landscape. The range and intensity of autumn colors is greatly influenced by the weather. Low temperatures destroy chlorophyll, and if they stay above freezing, promote the formation of anthocyanins. Bright sunshine also destroys chlorophyll and enhances anthocyanin production. Dry weather, by increasing sugar concentration, also increases the amount of anthocyanin. So the brightest autumn colors are produced when dry, sunny days are followed by cool, dry nights. The secret recipe. Nature knows best. Normally I'd keep a 10-degree swing between day and night but ripening will see the gap increase dramatically on this one. Anthocyanin color is highly pH-sensitive, turning red or pink in acidic conditions (pH 7) Acidic Conditions (pH 7): Anthocyanins tend to change to bluish or greenish colors, and in very alkaline solutions, they can become colorless as the pigment is reduced. The color changes are due to structural transformations of the anthocyanin molecule in response to pH changes, involving the protonation and deprotonation of phenolic groups. Anthocyanins, responsible for red, purple, and blue colors in plants, differ from other pigments like carotenoids and chlorophylls because their color changes with pH, making them unique pH indicators, while other pigments are more stable in color. Anthocyanins are a whole family of plant pigments. They are present in lilac, red, purple, violet or even black flower petals. Anthocyanins are also found in fruits and vegetables, as well as some leaves. Cold weather causes these purple pigments to absorb sunlight more intensely, which, in turn, raises the core temperature of the plant compared to that of the ambient air. This protects the plant from cold temperatures. In hot weather or at high altitudes, anthocyanins protect the plant cells by absorbing excessive ultraviolet radiation. Furthermore, a vivid petal coloration makes it easier for insects to find the flowers and pollinate them. Adding NaHSO4 (sodium hydrogen sulfate) to water increases the number of protons H+ in the solution. In other words, we increase the acidity of the medium because sodium hydrogen sulfate dissociates in water, or, in other words, it breaks down into individual ions: NaHSO4 → HSO4- + Na+ HSO4- SO42- + H+ In turn, the H+ protons react with the anthocyanin molecules transforming them from the neutral into cationic form. The cationic form of anthocyanins has a bright red color. The color of anthocyanins is determined by the concentration of hydrogen ions H+. When we add the sodium carbonate Na2CO3 solution, the H+ concentration drops. A decrease in the number of H+ causes a pigment color change, first to purple and then to blue and dark green. Anthocyanins are unstable in a basic environment, and so they gradually decompose. The decomposition process produces yellow-colored substances called chalcones. This process is quite slow, allowing us to track how a solution changes its color from blue to various shades of green and finally to yellow. The best petals would be brightly colored dark petals of red, purple, blue, or violet. You are particularly lucky if you can get your hands on almost black petals from either petunia, roses, irises, African violets, tulips, or lilies. These flowers contain a maximum concentration of anthocyanins. British scientist Robert Boyle (1627–1691) made a number of remarkable discoveries in chemistry. Interestingly, one of these discoveries involved the beautiful flowers known as violets. One day, Boyle brought a bouquet of violets to his laboratory. His assistant, who was performing an experiment at the time, accidentally splashed some hydrochloric acid on the flowers. Worried that the acid would harm the plants, the assistant moved to rinse them with water, but Boyle suddenly stopped him. The scientist’s attention was fixed on the violets. The places where acid had splashed the petals had turned from purple to red. Boyle was intrigued. “Would alkalis affect the petals, too?” he wondered and applied some alkali to a flower. This time the petals turned green! Experimenting with different plants, Boyle observed that some of them changed colors when exposed to acids and alkalis. He called these plants indicators. By the way, the violet color of the petals is produced by anthocyanins – pigments that absorb all light waves except violet. These vibrant pigments help attract bees, butterflies, and other pollinators, facilitating the flower’s reproduction. Anthocyanins are a type of flavonoid, a large class of plant pigments. They are derived from anthocyanidins by adding sugars. Sugars, particularly sucrose, are involved in signaling networks related to anthocyanin biosynthesis, and sucrose is a strong inducer of anthocyanin production in plants. Sugar-boron complexes, also known as sugar-borate esters (SBEs), are naturally occurring molecules where one or two sugar molecules are linked to a boron atom, and the most studied example is calcium fructoborate (CaFB). Boron is a micronutrient crucial for plant health, playing a key role in cell wall formation, sugar transport, and reproductive development, and can be deficient in certain soils, particularly well-drained sandy soils. Narrow Range: There's a small difference between the amount of boron plants need and the amount that causes toxicity. Soil concentrations greater than 3 ug/ml (3ppm) may indicate potential for toxicity. Anthocyanins, the pigments responsible for the red, purple, and blue colors in many fruits and vegetables, are formed when an anthocyanidin molecule is linked to a sugar molecule through a glycosidic bond. Glycosidic bonds are covalent linkages, specifically ether bonds, that connect carbohydrate molecules (saccharides) to other groups, including other carbohydrates, forming larger structures like disaccharides and polysaccharides. Formation: Glycosidic bonds are formed through a condensation reaction (dehydration synthesis) where a water molecule is removed, linking the hemiacetal or hemiketal group of one saccharide with the hydroxyl group of another molecule. Types: O-glycosidic bonds: The most common type, where the linkage involves an oxygen atom. N-glycosidic bonds: Less common, but important, where the linkage involves a nitrogen atom. Orientation: Glycosidic bonds can be alpha or beta, depending on the orientation of the anomeric carbon (C-1) of the sugar. Alpha (α): The hydroxyl group on the anomeric carbon is below the ring plane. Beta (β): The hydroxyl group on the anomeric carbon is above the ring plane. Disaccharides: Lactose (glucose + galactose), sucrose (glucose + fructose), and maltose (glucose + glucose) are examples of disaccharides linked by glycosidic bonds. Polysaccharides: Starch (amylose and amylopectin) and glycogen are polysaccharides formed by glycosidic linkages between glucose molecules. Significance: Glycosidic bonds are crucial for forming complex carbohydrates, which play vital roles in energy storage, structural support (like in cell walls), and as components of important biomolecules like glycoproteins and glycolipids.