Ambering up nicely! Cannot wait to try this! 2-gal gets the chop on day 74 after her flush finishes up. 2-3 weeks out on the 3-gal.

All feeds with nutes use either a whole ratio or combination of "Veg Mix" and "Bloom Mix"concentrates DILUTED in water until a total ppm of add in is reached using a (Total Dissolved Solids)TDS Meter measured in PPM (parts per million). The "Veg Mix" concentrate will eventually be added in smaller ratios and "Bloom Mix" concentrate what will eventually replace the "Veg Mix" concentrate entirely with the ppm and ratios listed when I feed. Veg mix recipe is on week 3. Bloom Mix recipe is on week 5. Day 70/0 Flipped to 12/12 - increased ppfd by 100 and worked to stabilize temps/humidity with new gear. I used 15 minutes of IR light before main lights and then 30 minutes of UV light at mid day and will still use 15 minutes of IR light after main light are out. I plan to increase the time of UV lights to a max of 2.5 hours per day mid day but for now Im easing her into the treatments. Watered with 1.12 gallons of 6.3ph de-chlorinated tap water, used 50ppm of veg mix and 50ppm of bloom mix in the water. VPD is mostly steady 74F/65%RH/33%ILV Day 71/1 tested and calibrated my meter, tested the top soil 1 day after feed for ph - tested 4 times for an avg of 6.48 Trimmed brown leaves and did some HST/LST training/binding. Took control pics for UV treatments of 15 minutes per day. Will monitor and increase weekly it she holds up okay. Still doin 15 minutes of IR light before and after lights on/off. PPFD after training was 630 at highest and 540 lowest. VPD was 74F/60%RH/33%ILV Day 72/2 Just a watch today, VPD was 75F/60%RH/setting 4/10 of ILV (about 33% like the last tent) PPFD ranged from 530 to 650. I only used 5 minutes of UV light today as she has a tinge of browning on the tips of a few leaves. Im not cutting it out completely because I still plan to use upto 2.5 hrs by end of flower, so she needs to adjust. Im also still using 15 minutes of IR before and after main light schedule. Her stretch seems to be picking up, from 16 inches 2 days ago to 18 today. Day 73/3 VPD same as yesterday 75F/60%RH/40%ILV PPFD hit 670 at highest and 550 at lowest. Stayed with 5 minutes of UV light and monitored burnt tips from previous days... no spread, so I may add 5 more minutes tomorrow and monitor. 15 minutes of IR before/after main light schedule. Growth continues, another inch in stretch to 19 inches. I turned her slightly because there are still two runted colas that I rather provide more light to. It's been 3 days since last feed and I think with as much growth as she's putting on, I should feed again tomorrow. Im still introducing nutes in lower portions but will add 300ppm and feed about 2 gallons at a 25/75 ratio of veg:bloom mix to see if I can get some run off to measure conditions. Day 74/4 Watered with 2 gallons of 6.4 ph de-chlorinated tap water. I added 300ppm total of 25% Veg/75% Bloom. Starting ppm was 296; ending was 595 and I added a pinch of epsom salt. Poured over the whole base until I got runoff - Since I was so close to the whole 2 gallons, I used it all. I only used the feed water over the roots today as I want her to get the nutes from the soil since the transfer into new soil was so recent. So far VPD is 75F/60%RH/40%ILV. No issues with controls. PPFD was upto 700 at center so I raised the lights to almost 42" from soil - Since the plant is almost 20" that's 22" leaves to light. New PPFD now ranges at 480 to 650 on 70% power. I increased UV time to 10minutes today and took control pics for light burn. I am still using 15 IR before and after main lights. Took some black back picks since I think she's looking good now. Day 75/5 Started the day with evaluation of ph and control pics. Comparisons show no further spread of lock out issues from earlier or light burn of a more recent change. Upto 20 inches before HST/LST today. Meter was tested/calibrated and soil ph was tested 4 times for avg of 6.34 (yesterday's runoff was about 6.35 too) Soil temp is about 66F. Also tested CO2 and got 1050. Room VPD was 74F/60%RH/30%ILV I spread the leaves further apart because I noticed there were two colas not getting as much light and somewhat crowded by the colas near by. So I positioned the larger part of the tomato ring around the limbs extending here out to 32x32 and the used HST/LST to break and bend the center colas inward clockwise (I think I went a bit too hard on one as the others already show a bounce back and now one is still limp-ish (will monitor obviously) But with that the height is now 18" so 32x32x18 - but here's the kicker, I only have a 24x48 tent, so there's a few colas touching the walls and doorway now, so I may have to reconsider the larger ring. New position, new PPFD right?, not exactly, for some reason these settings still gave me range of 480 to 650 as I had yesterday with just a few more of the outer colas have 480 than yesterday. However, there's more light getting lower levels now and I only had to cut 1 leaf. Which is good because I did 15 minutes of UV today with the regular 15 minutes of IR before and after main lights. Day 76/6 VPD is a lil wonky now as humidity is starting to go up in the tent - so I plan to put in the dehumidifier this weekend and just leaving the humidifier off today and tomorrow. Heat seems to also be ticking up - so I reduced the temp on the heater and will monitor. Temps about 75 to 76 - humidity at about 62% as high as 65 though and Im trying to be at or under 60 this week. Increased ILV to 40% I repositioned the fans to hang on the lights while blowing down onto the plant. I tried to make every leaf dance a little. LST seemed to hold up okay - had to reposition a few branches and thinking I may have to build a larger box this weekend since the colas are now pressing the door and back wall. PPFD is between 470 and 700. I used 15 minutes of UV mid day with 15 minutes (30 total) IR before and after main light timers.

7

I skipped a week sorry y’all! Anyways man this blueberry muffin is a masterpiece… I think next year I will be growing this baby In a 20gallon pot want to be able to stock up lol.. she has loved everything I’ve given her and I think she could take more if I have it but she doing just fine so no need to add more to her. Starting to smell yummy definitely not a typical cannabis smell it’s very pleasant ( although there is nothing like the smell of some skunk! ) and the buds are filling out very good. After checking out a few post on her I haven’t seen any massive buds but some small perfect ones so maybe I’ll get some them heavy colas. But anyways still Dealing with spider mites but they’ve slowed down a lot still every now and then hitting them with keen oil when I start to see them pop up. Probably going to be removing heavy grow nutes and blast more bloom and boosters. Anyways thanks for checking me out I know I ramble Peace,love and grow my friends!

All 3 plants are pretty tiny, so happy there are 3 of them. Hopefully they develop their roots a little more before going into flower. Got a new camera so this week should be some nicer pics (:

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.

12/12

So Zkittles finally has the place to herself after the Pineapple Express was harvested yesterday ( it’s the fruit ) . With room to spread her out now she’s loving all that extra light and air flow and is becoming the biggest auto I’ve ever grown with a stench that needs covering up with candles and dryer sheets at the exhaust vent … ( good problems to have ) All going to plan a few more weeks of fattening her up some and it will be a successful grow .

This cross between Cherry Pie and Chemdawg and do-si-dos It smells vaguely like brain cake. However, chempie has a stronger aroma than brain cake. strong terpenes of linalool, and the smoke was quite harsh and powerful with each hit. The nicest form and most substantial buds in this crop

12/31: The first two are both coming along nicely, and the reserve/alternate seedling is catching up. 👍 Today was the first day in which I fed them some Big Bloom and Boomerang along with humic acid, pH'd to 6.1. 1/3: I've been letting them dry out a bit for the last two days. They've got roots coming out the bottoms now...I'll probably transplant them into 5 gallon fabric pots tomorrow or the next day. I ordered a 4' 180w tube light with 578 LEDs..it has a 360 degree beam with 3000k and a bunch of 660nm. It's waterproof, so no worries about keeping it beneath my canopy to illuminate the lower branches and hopefully increase the density of those buds that never get much top-lighting. Today, I mounted my two new 24w UVA LED lights (395-405nm) to my frame. I'll run them 6 hours a day from the time I put the plants into my closet, until harvest. It is my understanding that exposure to UVA, particularly during the vegetative stage, triggers many different plant defense hormones, which speed growth and can increase heartiness to withstand constant exposure to UVB without suffering as much cellular damage as usual. I'm also ordering a 2' Solacure FlowerPower UVB (285nm-310nm) next week to use during flowering to stress the plants and increase trichome production. 1/4: I did a few foliar feedings with big bloom and fulvic acid today. 1/5: Transplanting day. I dusted their roots with magic dust and transplant them into 5 gallon pots today. I had some excellent compost with biochar and myco that I mixed into their soil, too. I watered them in with about 2 quarts of their first taste of full strength veg nutes, plus mycorrhizal fungi, trichoderma, beneficial bacteria, and humic acid, then I sprayed them with biotabs boomboom spray when finished. The were moved into the closet under the quantum boards, UVA's, and a pair of MiracleLED blue bulbs. I'll start adding far-red spectra to the equation in the next few days.

15/09 she's turnin brown on the tops 20/09 she is not turning more brown, getting a bit thicker.... Humidity 60+ and spraying her, felt like she was dryin out, want to keep her goin... She's goin to spawn seeds I guess, but she is gaining nicely!!! 22/09 she was turning more brown, was going to lose more than she gained, she's partly Amber with some dry spots, too bad for that SO CUT !! 84gr wet, just like her sister!! I swear, she smells like roasted coffee ❤️❤️ so yummy!!!

gjgughlk

another week has passed and it is growing and thriving excellently. there has been a lot of sunshine and occasionally the necessary rain from above.

11/14 Day 23 from flip. The stretch has been explosive, so much so that I’m beginning to have height concerns. I can probably add another trellis net and lower it down a little bit, but not by much. I just have to hope they level off soon. I’ve needed to turn the lights down every day or two, and even then I’m at almost 800 PAR / 34.6 DLI at the topmost part of the canopy. The majority is closer to about 725 PAR / 31.3 DLI so I’ll leave it there for now. 11/19 Day 28 from flip. Well, the stretch sadly hasn’t stopped. I was able to raise my lights a few extra inches but it’s now maxed out at the top of the tent. The topmost branch is about 12” away from the lights so this really is about as much as I can realistically handle. I realize Ethos was up front about sending this strain into flower earlier than normal due to the way it grows but this is really nuts. We’ve now easily tripled, if not almost quadrupled, in height and lord knows how much there is still to go. Stretch aside, everything else with the grow is bang on. Everything looks healthy, no signs of any disease or pests, every branch has solid airflow around it with nothing being too crowded. I just need the stretch to stop and everything will be great.

Topped to 4th node. Started brewing ~5l of neem/kelp/aloe Trying out LST clips for the first time. Added a couple of small LST clips on the 4 largest fan leaves. One of the large lower fan leaves snapped off this morning when I was adjusting the LST clips. It looked like it had already snapped yesterday. Adjusted VPD to lower humidity

The strain is not the biggest yielder but its quite promissimg,the smell is top and the effects are a very mellow creative smoke,tastes like sweets,will grow it again ✌️✌️

This week i topped the plant at the 4-5th node Check out YouTube video SuperSmoker for more!