Crescendo muito bem as princesas, apenas com duas regas com nutrientes uma na primeira semana e meia de vida com o rootfast da Aramis, e a outra está semana com terra leaves 2.5 ml/l...já fiz algum desfolhamento nas partes baixas das maiores para desobstruir os novos rebentos em direção ah luz... Aguardando o tão desejado fruto... Abraços

LSD-25 mostra già qualche peletto è questo è un ottimo segno, la ragazza sembra crescere veramente alla grande con rami che cercano la luce, ora vedrò se tagliare le foglie a ventaglio che coprono i rami che non riescono ad emergere, penso che dalla prossima settimana andranno già in fioritura le due auto anche la CBD avrà bisogno di più tempo per svilupparsi…ho delle belle aspettative per queste bellezze 👌💯🔥

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

What's up fellow growmies! I hope all is well with your grows! This week progressed like usual, they actually are starting to pre-flower and growing stigmas. Its like clock work with these autos July 1st marked a complete year in growing and each time I've grown autos they always start to transition to flower in week 5/6. Its hard to believe it has been a complete year for me💪🏾 I have gained so much knowledge and received so much help from this community and I really appreciate it. It seems like yesterday I was frantically worrying about everything. Although I have much to learn I think I pretty much have it down to a science. This last year I have grown 4 different strains 2 times each. On my current grow I have stopped obsessing over watering, one thing I am learning is that watering until run off is not really needed, unless you want to test the ppm/ph of said run-off, otherwise you are just wasting water. I start off with 1 liter of water per plant, and as they grow I make my way up to 2 liters. It appears to be the sweet spot especially for the 5 gallon pots, after about 2 liters I start to see run-off in the 3gallon pots I see it after about 1.5 liters of water. I am still using the General Hydroponics Flora Series trio, it has worked well for me. I always mix what the manufacturer recommends per gallon into a 3 gallon sprayer, so I am giving 1/3rd of the recommended dosage out of fear of nute burn or lockout. I performed LST on both Big Bud Auto plants, and one of my White Widows, the other 2 White Widows I am letting grow naturally. Stay tuned and Happy Growing!!!! 🤘🏾🤙🏾💪🏾

Die Höhe würde angepasst. Die 20liter töpfe sitzen jetzt noch 1 woche dann gehts in die Blüte. Kleinen mangel bei der größten, der Papaya X Blue Dream aber durch den 20 l topf vergeht das von selbst.

Beginning of the fifth week of flowering. One organic and one fertilized! Both sativas!

1st week generative phase: Pre-flowering and the next problem with the two topped specimens: Yellow leaf tips - too much nitrogen. I just thought: Close your eyes and go for it.... Organic cultivation regulates itself - well, at least in theory.... 🤣 Cannazym works wonders! I love to highly recommend. I work with it from pre-flowering to harvest and gently increase the dose. A word about water quality... 💦 I now use oxygen-enriched reverse osmosis. Since here in Berlin the pH value is basically very hard (very calcareous water) and not all plants can cope with it, I decided to invest there. Not cheap, but incredibly effective.

This week I upped the Coco Grow nutrients to half strength, I was worried that it might be too big of a jump up but she seems to have taken it in her stride and is showing some nice growth. The next time you see her she'll be topped and re-potted into a 5L air pot.

Blueberry Lime Kush AD

Zeit sich zu verabschieden. Habe viel gelernt und dafür war die PE von Barneys echt perfekt... Hat selbst durch die Trauermücken zu Beginn, die Überwässerungsfehler an Anfang und das viele Trimmen und Training sich einfach unbeeindruckt gezeigt und ist stetig gewachsen. Bin mit meiner Ausbeute mehr als zufrieden und werde die kommenden Tage nochmal trocken wiegen. Einzig, dass die Buds ein wenig luftig sind und ich mir noch mehr Geruch gewünscht hätte, stört mich ein wenig. Geruch zieht an, dürfte aber für meinen Geschmack noch mehr sein. Habe die Blüten 1 Woche in Kartons getrocknet und inzwischen in Einmachgläsern mit Boveda Packs und Hygros bei stabilen 61-63%. Neulich schonmal einen Krümel genascht und der erste Eindruck war, dass es ziemlich redselig macht. Hat Spaß gemacht. Berichte demnächst noch genauer über Geschmack und Wirkung. Bis zum nächsten mal! Cannaloni. _____________ Time to say goodbye. I learned a lot and the PE from Barneys was really perfect for that... Even through the fungus gnats at the beginning, the overwatering mistakes at the start and all the trimming and training, it was simply unimpressed and has grown steadily. I'm more than satisfied with my yield and will weigh it dry again in the next few days. dry in the coming days. The only thing that bothers me a little is that the buds are a little airy and I would have liked even more smell. The smell is attractive, but should be more for my taste. I dried the flowers in cardboard boxes for 1 week and have since in preserving jars with Boveda Packs and Hygros at a stable 61-63%. I had a crumb the other day and my first impression was that it makes me quite talkative. It was fun. I'll report on the taste and effect in more detail soon. See you next time! Cannaloni.

This week, I push PPM too much(1500-1700) leaf start burning so i add pure water for 2 day after that. Bud get a little bigger comepare to last week but not to the point i expected to be. Changing water become bigger problem since they grow so tall. Runtz is flushing first day today but the rest can keep going since runtz flower early than other. Hope you guys enjoy this happy grow everyone.

Straw-Lectric Lemonade-STRNG Seed W18 F9 3/8-14 Harvest week 3/9 Straw-Lectric Lemonades are in the closet hanging to dry. With summer temperatures outside this week, the humidity in the garage was over 75% and the temps in the garage were in the mid-70s. I did not want mold after all this work. In the closet with the air conditioner running and the door closed, I can achieve 54-60%rh and temps of 66-74F. The SLL were #1 37’,’ #2 56” tall and 4 inches from the lights and #1 overshadowed by the Cadillacs. I flushed 3x with flawless finish before harvest. I used 577 wet trim of all 6 plants in the strawberry collection in bubble hash. I was in awe as the bagged leaves swirled in the washing machine, the water was Kool-Aid red and later was a deep wine red. The strawberries show their true colors. The larger buds are dense and weigh about 3g each. These were harvested on 3/9 and dried for 2 weeks dry weights taken on 3/27. Straw-Lectric Lemonade 1 350g wet 41g dry Straw-Lectric Lemonade 2 338g wet 36g dry. This totals 77 grams or 2.75 ounces. The yield is like my previous auto harvests. For a photo period strain I think the yield would have been larger per plant given their size. The taller Cadillacs overshadowed these as they were pushed to one side. The smaller harvest and more water usage is confirming my preference for growing autoflowers since the harvest is about the same size but is finished in 8-10 weeks seed to harvest rather than 18-20 or more. However, for my first time growing photos in the tent, I feel this was successful. Stay green, growers love 💚🌿 💫Natrona💫

Nearing the end. Defoliated and pulled apart the mass of buds that had all grown into a single main cola. I didn't notice but there were multiple buds all cramed together, blocking out light to the inside. After pulling them apart and carefully tying them down I have been able to increase the airflow, trichome, and overall size while also decreasing the excess nitrogen that had built up in those cramped bud sites. Did all this about 5 days ago and ahe is getting even better. Just a few days left. Also, I cut off a little piece yesterday just cause I'm so desperate. Lol. Next update will be harvest!

Topped two of the taller ones, trying to get them all the same height. Possibly thinking of doing scrog or sog. Brought the light down an inch or so. Started to give them bio buzz bio grow 1.5ml /l Little video and a picture of the setup. Seem fine at the moment no complaints

Ready for takeoff 🛫🚀🚀🚀🚀🚀

Transplanted the lady's to their final home. The Myco did its job great, got some solid roots💪. I'm also gonna give the Bio Tabs range a try on one of the Cookies RBX. Rock on Growmies 💚🌱🌺