Day 36 I guess I can call it bloom. Nice strong pistils shooting all over. She is the tallest so far making me raise my lights a little more. Day 38 Now Californian Snow is the tallest :) Ztrawberry stopped at a perfect height, it looks like she's gonna develop into a beautiful lady. Fat white pistils all over 😻 Day 39 Happy girl got 2500ml cm bg bb bh 6.3ph ~1EC She is perfect, symmetrical, stopped stretching at about 50cm, flowers are mostly leveled, branches are strong, leaves point up unless I water. I think she's also turning purple. Beaut 😻 Day 42 I think I saw some burnt tips but she still looks super happy and healthy. The most vigorous plant I've had.

7/4 SUN was poking out a little bit. Plants loved that little feeding and seen to he noticeable larger this morning. I'm considering starting the nutes. At least the organic ones as well as upping the water intake I've been scared to water with all this rain and my experience last time. I plan on applying BT this afternoon and doing some work on the bottoms of the plants. I also saw a chipmunk in my cage so I have some spots in my fence that need to be patched. I know I can't compare this year to orher years as these are seeds and all the other years were clones. I CAN say for certain that my plants are healthiest they've been out of any of my journals. Previous plants were much larger but I was fighting numerous fungal, pathogens and pests at the sane time. Ear wigs would've lollipopped most buddies by now but I've seen no sign of them. I'm going to apply more poison where they were and add some rat traps inside the cage for the chipmunks. Once I fix the cage I think I'll be good. UPDATE: Went back over and fixed the holes on my cage from high winds. I found an old wire trap or cage and just cut sections and ziptied them to the existing wire and to the structure thus covering any open holes. I'll need to put lathes aroubdvtge outside because if a rodent REALLY wanted in they could get in. My belt had been wearing thin but I use shit until it breaks (yesterday the heal came off my shoe lol) so I was working hard sweating my nuts off and my belt gives out totally. At least ive got the major stuff done. I took a few videos too. I'm imagining it was this little bit of sun that gave these plants that boost of growth but I'm wondering if the added nutes had anything to do with it. Bags weren't light and I could feel moisture in the soil so I didn't water. I'll check again tomorrow morning. Since I didn't see many plants or even leaves for that matter with damage I decided to hold off ob the BT and the plant doctor. Only time will tell if that was the right decision. 7/5 Plants look fantastic. I see a few more holes in leaves sporadically amd I'm hoping it's pillars. I've seen lots of lightning bugs on my camera though and grasshoppers are abundant. Not one growth shoot has been chewed (knock on wood) which is what the earwigs had always done. I watched a video from last year and by nowcthey had lollipopped all lower leaves. It may not be the best weather growing season wise but despite the rh consistently in the 90's I still don't have pm or fungal pathogens. Need to get the BT out. Didn't water as we've had all that rain. I'll water either tonight or tomorrow morning. Sunny high in the 90s low is 66. Tomorrow looks good too. UPDATE WENT BACK OVER AROUND FIVE. IT WAS 88 DEGREES SO I WANTED TO CHECK THE GROW BAGS. THE POTS ARE FINE. IT WAS HUMID AS HELL. ONE PLANT WAS SLIGHTLY DROOPY BUT VERY LIGHT AND DRY. I FOUND TWO OTHERS THAT SEEMED LIGHTER THAN THE REST BUT HADNT DROOPED. I MIXED TWO GALLONS OF WATER WITH 1TSP KANGOROOTS AMD PHED IT CLOSE TO 6. I FED THE 3 PLANTS THAT WERE SUPER DRY LIKE A HALF GALLON AND SPRED THE REST OVER THE OTHER EIGHT PLANTS. THEY WERENT DROOPING BUT THEY WERE VERY DRY. I PLAN ON A FULL WATER TOMORROW. I WOULDVE DONE IT TODAY IF THE TEMPS WERENT SO HIGH. ITS RAINED A MONTH STRAIGHT SO I HAVENT HAD TO WATER. I MADE A COUPLE VIDEOS BUT I'LL HAVE TO UPLOAD TOMORROW. 7/6 Another super hot day. I hefted the pots and they still had some weight but I could tell they were dry. This rain has messed up my watering schedule. Well it made it so I didn't NEED to water. These are big plants now. I need to get a schedule to stick too. They're going to probably need a gallon a piece at least. I'm still nervous watering. Right now I'm just reading the plants. I added .5tsp kelp me/you to 1 gallon of water to help with heat stress. I fed an additional two gallons to the garden this morning including the two container plants in the back. They were dry on top too but I know they have water deeper down. Next watering I'll be more consistent and try to give them there 10%. It's great having the bags elevated. I can finally see when I start getting run off. I could even measure the ph of it instead of relying on that meter. Ill check the ph when I go back over. Still a few 🐛 holes but they are few and far between. I really don't want to spray for such a small problem but if I cant find them at night that's what I'll do. UPDATE: Another 90 degree day. I went back over and gave the garden a gallon of water as they were dry and it didn't rain. Tried to use a soil ph meter to check ph. First couple were 6.4, 6.5 then I got 7.3 and I accidently dropped it. Then I got somethings that were high eights and even one 9! Obviously the Meter shit the bed. I'll lower the ph of the water slightly when I fully water tomorrow and I'm going to measure the runoff. 7/8 I must've messed up the journal again as the dates are off. GAVE PLANTS A FULL WATERING. Each girl got a gallon. I couldn't upload my videos this morning as I had to break up a fight. 3 on 1. Didn't give me a chance to put the videos up. I'll take some stills then I can upload them. I took stills and they all uploaded but didn't fucking save. I'm nit going to keep trying to upload if it's not going to. Noticed a few more holes in leaves and one skeletinized leaf so I need to either spray the bt or something more versatile. I'm putting more poison around the cage and de between the bags. I'll go check things out tonight. Sick of writing a book and uploading to just hace them disappear 7/9 Did a quick video today. Noticed the bags were fairly light despite the plants being soaked amd the pallets wet. I was pressed for time. I gave two gallons to the entire garden. I hope that will hold them over until tomorrow. I'll need to up how much water I give them. Going with a gallon and a half next time. I see more pillar spots and a moth took off when I shook the plants this morning. So I'm gonna have too apply the BT. I figure if I go over before dark tonight I might be able to see aju nocturnal insects around. Luckily my dad feeds the birds and they are always there. I think they help with pests. UPDATE IT WAS A LITTLE COOLER TODAY BUT MICH MORE HUMID. I WENT AROUND SIX TO MAKE SURE THE GIRLS WERE OK WITH WATER AND TO GIVE THEM A TREATMENT OF BT. I WENT THROUGH THE GARDEN ANDCGOUND THREE LEQVES TO DEFOLIATE AND LITERALLY A COUPLE LEAVES ON TWO PLANTS WITH PILLAR HILESM WHEN I ARRIVED TWO BIRDS FLEW OUT. A HORNET CAME IN WHILE I WAS THERE. THIS DO LESS APPROACH SEEMS TO BE REALLY WORKING. I DODNT SEE NEARLT ENOUGH DAMAGE TO WARRANT SPRAY8NG MY EXTREMELY HEALTHY GIROS WITH ANYTHING. ILL KEEP AN EYE ON THEM AND CLEAN THEM UP A BIT. I DO NEED TO INSTALL THE VERY8CAL TRELLIS FOR SUPPORT. THEYRE PRETTY HEALTHY THOUGH. ONE PLANT IS ABOUT AS WIDE AS IT IS TALL. STILL......PLANTS ARE EXPLODING AND ITS GETTING TIGHT IN THERE. I NEED TO GET THE TRELLIS UP THOUGH. 7/10 I went over and was planning to water. Plants were wet and it's raining. Top of the medium was moist but the bags were light. ONE bag was super light but seeing that we are having showers all day and an additional half inch of rain coming tonight so I didn't water them. Especially since they looked great. Decided to to spray BT yet as the damage is so small and i think the birds have been taking care of the pillars for me. Now I'm wondering if I should've gave that ONE plant a little bit of water but it will be find. Did a video. I'm being careful not to over water. Last year this is when all my buddies were devoured by earwigs. And no senescence like the years before. I think it was hust those earwigs. I haven't lost shot for leaves. Even the stalks are bright green and look amazing.

ultimas semanas de las nenas,en un par de dias se le realizara lavadl de raiz.

Very pleased with the state of the Chemdawg bonsai, the ceramic cupcake reveal is working nicely. Still need to clean up those roots once they firm up a bit. She's also starting to show pre-flowers now. Meanwhile, the main Chemdawg is looking great, the octo-colas are shaping exactly like I hoped, and she's mostly outgrown the overwatered thing. That said, she's a very fast grower and I'm running out of horizontal room. I'll probably need to top her again just to slow her down compared to her tent-mate (Lemon Tart Pucker, growing in a much more indica fashion). Tent is still holding at 600 PPFD, 82 F (28 C) daytime temps, target VPD of 1.0. Did another Rootwise soak across the tent this week, plants seemed to enjoy it.

I am so excited to grow this Mexican Airlines from @420fast_buds. She is About twelve days out of The Dirt and is doing excellent. But I wouldn't expect anything less from the peeps at @fast_buds. She is looking super indica early on. Can't wait to see how it goes. See you guys back here next wee for another update ( if not sooner)!!! Peace and love

I transplanted everything over the past 3 or 4 days and am just giving them some time to break in their new shoes before I flip them. I got a new bottle of calmag I think the one I was using was old it's been on the shelf for a while. The heat is still a little lower than I would like and now with the bigger pots humidity has gone way up.

2nd net is up. Early bud formations are promising. holding up to the extremes pretty well, some leaves taking minor damage, but overall, she is holding up, gave her 1 night at 50F see how she would react, stressful. Not advised as it messes with her metabolism, but I want to see if it triggers any anthocyanin response. Love to see her purp up but no signs yet. Remember, For every molecule of glucose produced during photosynthesis, a plant needs to split six molecules of water. This process provides the hydrogen needed for synthesizing glucose and other organic compounds, while oxygen is released as a byproduct. Homework. If Rubisco activity is impaired and it cannot properly function or regenerate its substrate, the plant's leaves are likely to turn a pale green or lime green, a condition known as chlorosis. Essentially, Rubisco activity is highly regulated and susceptible to various environmental and metabolic factors that can cause it to become inhibited, leading to an apparent failure in RuBP regeneration due to a lack of consumption. Rubisco regeneration is intrinsically linked to nitrogen supply because Rubisco is a major sink for nitrogen in plants, typically accounting for 15% to over 25% of total leaf nitrogen. The regeneration phase itself consumes nitrogen through the synthesis of the Rubisco enzyme and associated proteins (like Rubisco activase), and overall nitrogen status heavily influences the efficiency of RuBP regeneration. RuBisCO is a very large enzyme that constitutes a significant proportion (up to 50%) of leaf soluble protein and requires large investments in nitrogen. Insufficient nitrogen supply limits the plant's ability to produce adequate amounts of RuBisCO, thereby limiting the overall capacity for photosynthesis and carbon fixation. Maintaining the optimal, slightly alkaline pH is crucial for the proper function and regeneration of Rubisco. Deviations in either direction (too high or too low) disrupt the enzyme's structure, activation state, and interaction with its substrates, leading to decreased activity and impaired RuBP regeneration. (Lime/yellowing) Structural Component: Nitrogen is an essential building block for all proteins, and the sheer abundance of the Rubisco protein makes it the single largest storage of nitrogen in the leaf. Synthesis and Activity: Adequate nitrogen supply is crucial for the synthesis and maintenance of sufficient Rubisco enzyme and Rubisco activase (Rca), the regulatory protein responsible for maintaining Rubisco's active state. Nitrogen deficiency leads to a decrease in the content and activity of both Rubisco and Rca, which in turn limits the maximum carboxylation rate, Vmax, and the rate of RuBP regeneration Jmax, thus reducing overall photosynthetic capacity. Nitrogen Storage and Remobilization: Rubisco can act as a temporary nitrogen storage protein, which is degraded to remobilize nitrogen to other growing parts of the plant, especially under conditions of nitrogen deficiency or senescence. Nitrogen Use Efficiency (NUE): The allocation of nitrogen to Rubisco is a key determinant of a plant's photosynthetic nitrogen use efficiency (PNUE). In high-nitrogen conditions, plants may accumulate a surplus of Rubisco, which may not be fully activated, leading to a lower PNUE. Optimizing the amount and activity of Rubisco relative to nitrogen availability is a target for improving crop NUE. Photorespiration and Nitrogen Metabolism: Nitrogen metabolism is also linked to the photorespiration pathway (which competes with carboxylation at the Rubisco active site), particularly in the reassimilation of ammonia released during the process. To increase RuBisCO regeneration, which refers to the process of forming the CO2 acceptor molecule Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate (RuBP) during photosynthesis, the primary methods involve optimizing the levels and activity of Rubisco activase (Rca) and enhancing the performance of other Calvin-Benson-Bassham (CBB) cycle enzymes. Biochemical and Environmental Approaches: Optimize Rubisco Activase (Rca) activity: Rca is a crucial chaperone protein that removes inhibitory sugar phosphates, such as CA1P (2-carboxy-D-arabinitol 1-phosphate), from the Rubisco active site, thus maintaining its catalytic competence. •Ensure optimal light conditions: Rca is light-activated via the chloroplast's redox status. Adequate light intensity ensures Rca can effectively maintain Rubisco in its active, carbamylated state. •Maintain optimal temperature: Rca is highly temperature-sensitive and can become unstable at moderately high temperatures (e.g., above 35°C/95F° in many C3 plants), which decreases its ability to activate Rubisco. Maintaining temperatures within the optimal range for a specific plant species is important. •Optimize Mg2+ concentration: Mg2+ is a key cofactor for both Rubisco carbamylation and Rca activity. In the light, Mg2+ concentration in the chloroplast stroma increases, promoting activation. •Manage ATP/ADP ratio: Rca activity depends on ATP hydrolysis and is inhibited by ADP. Conditions that maintain a high ATP/ADP ratio in the chloroplast stroma favor Rca activity. Enhance Calvin-Benson-Bassham (CBB) cycle enzyme activity: The overall rate of RuBP regeneration can be limited by other enzymes in the cycle. •Increase SBPase activity: Sedoheptulose-1,7-bisphosphatase (SBPase) is a key regulatory enzyme in the regeneration pathway, and increasing its activity can enhance RuBP regeneration and overall photosynthesis. •Optimize other enzymes: Overexpression of other CBB cycle enzymes such as fructose-1,6-bisphosphate aldolase (FBA) and triose phosphate isomerase (TPI) can also help to balance the metabolic flux and improve RuBP regeneration capacity. Magnesium ions, Mg2+, are specifically required for Rubisco activation because the cation plays a critical structural and chemical role in forming the active site: A specific lysine residue in the active site must be carbamylated by a CO2 molecule to activate the enzyme. The resulting negatively charged carbamyl group then facilitates the binding of the positively charged Mg2+ion. While other divalent metal ions like Mn2+ can bind to Rubisco, they alter the enzyme's substrate specificity and lead to dramatically lower activity or a higher rate of the non-productive oxygenation reaction compared to Mg2+, making them biologically unfavorable in the context of efficient carbon fixation. The concentration of Mg2+ in the chloroplast stroma naturally increases in the light due to ion potential balancing during ATP synthesis, providing a physiological mechanism to ensure the enzyme is activated when photosynthesis is possible. At the center of the porphyrin ring, nestled within its nitrogen atoms, is a Magnesium ion (Mg2+). This magnesium ion is crucial for the function of chlorophyll, and without it, the pigment cannot effectively capture and transfer light energy. Mg acts as a cofactor: Mg2+ binds to Rubisco after an activator CO2 molecule, forming a catalytically competent complex (Enzyme-CO2-Mg2+). High light + CO2) increases demand: Under high light (60 DLI is a very high intensity, potentially saturating) and high CO2, the plant's capacity for photosynthesis is high, and thus the demand for activated Rubisco and the necessary Mg2+ cofactor increases. Mg deficiency becomes limiting: If Mg2+ is deficient under these conditions, the higher levels of Rubisco and Rubisco activase produced cannot be fully activated, leading to lower photosynthetic rates and potential photo-oxidative damage. Optimal range: Studies show that adequate Mg2+ application can enhance Rubisco activation and stabilize net photosynthetic rates under stress conditions, but the required concentration is specific to the experimental setup. Monitoring is key: The most effective approach in a controlled environment is to monitor the plant's physiological responses e.g., leaf Mg2+ concentration, photosynthetic rate, Rubisco activation state, and adjust the nutrient solution/fertilizer to maintain adequate levels, rather than supplementing a fixed "extra" amount. In practice, this means ensuring that Mg2+ is not a limiting factor in the plant's standard nutrient solution when pushing the limits with high light and CO2. Applying Mg2+ through foliar spray is beneficial to Rubisco regeneration, particularly in alleviating the negative effects of magnesium (Mg) deficiency and high-temperature stress (HTS). While Mg can be leached from soil, within the plant it is considered a mobile nutrient, particularly in the phloem. Foliar-applied Mg is quickly absorbed by the leaves and can be translocate to other plant parts, including new growth and sink organs. Foliar application of: NATURES VERY OWN MgSO4 @ 15.0g L-1 in a spray bottle. For those high-intensity workouts when 1 meal a day is just not enough! Foliar sprays are often recommended as a rapid rescue measure for existing deficiencies or as a supplement during critical growth stages, when demand for Mg is high. Application in the early morning or late evening can improve absorption and prevent leaf burn. The plant was getting a little limey yellow in the centre. Shortly thereafter, she was back in business, green mostly regenerated. The starting point [of creativity] is curiosity: pondering why the default exists in the first place. We’re driven to question defaults when we experience vuja de, the opposite of déjà vu. Déjà vu occurs when we encounter something new, but it feels as if we’ve seen it before. Vuja de is the reverse—we face something familiar, but we see it with a fresh perspective that enables us to gain new insights into old problems. Confidence is evidence... nothing more. You are confident because you have driven 10,000 times, you are confident because you have spoken 10,000 times. People think confidence is a feeling, but it's not. If you want more confidence, then you need to create evidence, take more shots, collect more data, build more experiences, take more risks; fail, confidence doesn't come first; it is the reward you get for doing the work. no one else wants to do.

Another great healthy week

No issues she growing good.

The girls have chilled right out growing up and are growing out an phat , I’m seeing some purple there . Big defoliation coming up as soon as I can move that auto out which is looking chunky as but a bit on the small side prolly due to the 12/12 , still odds on to have some fresh Chrissy smoko .

Started week 1 and we placed these girls in a 7 liter pot, they are now growing with 1x Marshydro TS1000 but im adding another TS1000 in 2 weeks when they start flowering From the 5 plants germinated only 3 survived, strange as all other 25 plants (other strains from the same bank) germinated correctly, maybe its my fault or maybe the seeds were just weak but i never like to judge the seed bank for something which is maybe my own fault so its ok, these things can happen sometimes 😢

This plant seems to have grown much denser and better than my first plant. I just got the ac infinity ventilation setup with controller 69 for my 2x2, still trying to learn, hopefully grow #3 goes even better. Stay tuned

I was amazed with the purple dripping down the scissors. The harvest is in the dry tent with an estimated dry of 10 days, weather depending. From experience I imagine there is a 1/4 lb dry and I know I have some hash to look forward to. The Cadillac RainbowZ always delivers on that front. 👽 as of 3/15 the dry is going chef's kiss, perfect humidity control with my rigged up CloudForge T3, dry trimmed today; they'll be going into jars on 3/17 as of 3/17 the dry is complete HARVEST SUMMARY -185 grams grade A buds (10 grams knocked off during dry trim additional) for 7 ounces total - 1.6 grams bubble hash from scissors/gloves, and yeah she bubbles nice - 1 gallon ZipLoc full of sugar leaf dried, frozen then beat then sifted for 9 grams of 93 micron dry sift grade A hash with an additional 2.5 grams of grade B hash after refusing to clean my screen again

Fellow growers, Back for the weekly update. This girl starts smelling just yummy. Nice scents of wood/pine, cheese and citrus, at least to my nostrils :) Steady fattening no more growth, amber/milky on the sugar leaves but clear/milky on the buds/calyx. At least 10-14 more days is my guess. Exciting :) Very thirsty last days, I will stop feeding in 5-7 days. It's been all organic feeding so no need for extreme flushing.

Beide Pflänzchen zeigen ihre ersten echten Blätter, somit ist die Keimung in meinen Augen weitestgehend beendet und die beiden starten in die erste Woche und ins neue Jahr, als zwei gesunde kleine Blümchen. Die als NR1 bezeichnete Pflanze stammt aus einem sehr dicken und deutlich getigerten Samen. NR2 stammt aus einem 1/3 kleineren grau/braunen Samen.

19th of April day 40 above soil, Plants are looking healthy I broke one branch while low stress training but it didn’t effect the growth it’s still the fastest growing plant in the tent, maybe another week or two veg and then flip to flower 🍁

After germinating the seeds are transplanted into small pots with soil (see tutorial in VIDEO above). The soil is prepared with water mixed with a little bit of BIO NOVA Roots (0,5 ml/l), which aids the development of the seedling. Transplanting is very easy now, because they have grown a STRAIGHT tap-root while hanging during the SERIOUS' WAY of germination. This straight root allows for easy potting of the seeds. Simply make a little hole in the center of the soil with your pinky finger and carefully place the germinated seed with the white root pointing DOWNWARDS into the hole. Best is to lay it onto one side-wall of the hole with the seed shell right at the surface. Then I push the other side inwards and enclose the whole root with soil. At the end only the top of the seed-shell peeks out of the soil. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT to plant the seeds NOT TO DEEP into the soil. The seedling only needs extra strength to work itself upwards thru the soil and you run the risk of the soil drying out and the seed dying off. When you PLANT THE SEED VERY SHALLOW into the soil (=with the top of the seed-shell still peeking out) your seedling can grow out right away and you have a small plant already 24 hours after putting the seed into the soil. The small seedling sometimes still has the seed-shell on its 'head', it normally falls off by itself, but sometimes you have to carefully help and take it off with your finger nails. Be careful to NOT clip of the seedling accidentally when you do this! The seed-shall has an inner lining, which feeds the small seedling when it germinates. This inner lining sometimes gets tangled around the stem of the small seedling after the shell has fallen off. This little skin MUST be taken off the stem right away! Once it dries up, it gets hard and can strangulate the seedling around the stem. In order to avoid this, the skin must be taken off as soon as possible! I show it in the pics above and also made a video about taking off the inner lining of the seed.

day 46, a couple of the plants are showing signs of a deficiency.. i think it might be calcium, but i have no calmag. so i've sprinkled some bonemeal on top of the soil and watered it so it washes through to the soil.. hopefully 😅 ill see how they react tomorrow.. some really nice bud growth going on.. every day i go in i notice swell.😎

This will be the last week after this I will chop her down