Free Kony 2012

Que pasa familia, vamos a añadir la segunda semana de floración de estas Apple Fritter de RoyalQueenSeeds, empezamos con la temperatura que la tenemos entre los 21/25 grados, la humedad está entorno al 50%, el ph está en 6.2 , el foco actualmente lo tengo encendido 12 horas y la potencia es al 75% de lo que da el foco. También añado la gama de nutrientes de Agrobeta, que no falla, sin duda de la mejor alimentación que hay para tus plantas, también se ven bien verdes ya recuperaron la carencia de nitrógeno. Veremos estas próximas semanas como avanzan y se comportan en la floración. Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

June 14th not a ton happened, I believe I watered them (It seems I am having to water every second day now as they start to get bigger) June 15th - still just growing away. I went out and got some different ducting so I could pull air from outside better with the ac infinity inline fan. I also received some insulated ducting from Amazon that is a hell of a lot better then the standard stuff I am using. I also grabbed a new 9 inch fan (still deciding the best place to place it, for now it is beside the door). I grabbed a larger oscillating fan aswell to keep air moving around. June 16th - decided I would do some lst and then I gave them some water. I have been feeding nutrients every second day. I have also on every 3rd watering been doing just ph’d water. The humidity seems to drop quite a bit within 10-20 seconds of the door being open hence the lower reading. I am sitting roughly at 45-55 depending on time of day. As for temperatures I’m still struggling to keep it down during the warm days and it seems the highest I am getting is around 29 since switching the lights off from 11am - 5pm June 17th - the girls seemed to have perked back up after yesterday’s lst. Not much new today just some growth! June 18th - Unfortunately I forgot to take pictures today. But not to much difference. I did feed the girls with some nutrient water today. June 19th - I again forgot to take pictures. They are just growing away and doing there thing. I did check for growth from the topped portion on the bigger plant, no growth from one of the 2 tops. So I indeed cut it to low… I won’t be doing that again haha. June 20th - finally grabbed something to deal with the heat since it is getting hotter everyday. I picked up a 10,000 btu air conditioner. I have it set at 23 degrees. I also moved the plants around and re-arranged some stuff. I took the inline fan that was taking air out and instead the ac output is going to there. I ended up having to make the vent into a 6inch vent on the trailer. Temps stay around 23 now. Humidity is still 45-55 depending on time of day.

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Another first timer strain and luckily this one has passed the germination week from white label seeds...it was a sunny week which propelled the enhanced growth...looking forward to crossing her with some Skunk #1 pollen. OG SKUNK Loading.

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

Not a lot of growth, it's just too cold in Blighty at the moment. Added some foam insulation under the pot and placed a heat mat under the insulation to avoid direct contact with the pot. Time will tell!

Two Ethos Mandarin Bubba grown from seed, ended up being completely different phenos. One is dark purple almost red and other was lime green.

Hello plant lovers community The first week of the vega was almost perfect, except for the fact that the leaf is spinning at the Apricot, but these are trifles The light was on all the time 30 watts, 20/4, watered to a glass weight of 300 grams every day, water 70ppm / 7.8ph with the addition of Tarantula and Piranha On the 8th day they were transplanted into airpots, the light was set to 60 watts and the mode was 18/6 For transplantation, I use the method of two plastic cups, the video clearly showed

Wow! These plants have bulked up like crazy this week. The cola on #2 is about 7" tall and 3" wide at it's center mass. The smell is crazy, overpowering almost, oranges and burnt motor oil. The trichomes are mostly cloudy right now, very little clear heads. The amber is just starting to show, almost like a blush. Waiting a couple more days for some more amber then harvesting!

Bad Weather

Day 64 - Starting week 10 and didn’t do much with her today. Tucked as much as I can and removed some really yellow and dead lower leaves. The buds are coming along nicely and the smell is starting to get really strong. Day 65 - Took her out and removed some dying leaves from the bottom and cleaned out dead leaves that fell from the top of the soil. Checked the soil and not ready for any water yet so put her back into the tent and retucked a bunch of leaves. Day 66 - Nothing much happening today, still not ready for any water yet. Re-tucked the leaves again to keep the bud sites as open as possible. She’s fattening up nicely and can’t wait for this girl to get done cause I’m starting to run low on meds, though I know she’s still got some time left. Day 67 - Gave the girl about a gallon and a half of water today, she was pretty dry. She’s definitely getting fatter everyday and looking forward to the harvest. Checked the runoff and was a little high, 7.2 but not sure now if it’s my pH pen or if it’s really high. Noticed I’m out of calibration fluid so ordered some today so hopefully I’ll get a more accurate reading after recalibrating. Day 68 - Nothing new to report today, she’s good on water and should have the new pH solution tomorrow so I can make sure my pen is calibrated and reading properly. Did a little defoliating as well. Day 70 - End of week 10 today and nothing much happening except she’s still fattening up and getting a more bluish tint to the buds. Will probably be giving her a feed of nutes tomorrow. I do have a few off colored leaves but mostly at the bottom of the plant so thinking it’s because they’re not getting much light. Gonna keep an eye on her and let her go.

Week 1 : Six Shooter Biotabs running 3 six shooters one of them is in the biotabs line up, so far very easy although you do have to prepare a bunch of stuff, for the next four weeks it's nothing else so there's that which i nice. Basically, mixed everything acording to the label, i think i didnt add enough orgatrex but hopefully that's fine, just been struggling to keep the seedlings at the right humidity so i've been spraying them. Since i had the boom boom spray i decided to use it, and since i had so much of it left i decided to keep using it as a humidifier. so basically the seedlings oscillate from 20°C and 66RH to 23 and 63RH. giving a vpd of 0,5 to 1.1 depending on the wetness of the medium. the biotabs strains are all moist not wet (like the other pots) after one day , going to let it dry out then 2 more L per biotabs pot basically. i wonder how this little thing can grow into a plant sometimes 😂 that's it 🚀 Was a bit worried about this on as it really didnt like the wet medium and overwatering, doing much better now, main thing is don't panic and don't water before the medium is actually dry. 🚀

Hello:) I thought that I was done raising the wasabi but the wooden box under it broke so I had to replace it and I didn‘t have anything that was the right size… The wasabi is almost done, I think it will peak next week, the sangrias need at the very least 2 more weeks…I can‘t wait anymore, these last weeks are sooo looong:) Other than that not much happened, the insects are under control again, the wasabi‘s leaves are now yellowing a lot, but it’s okay since she‘s almost done. They also still drink heavily, I add like 2.5l per pot 3-4 times a week Oh yeah and the biggest news for me, when taking out some leaves, I realized that both of the sangrias in the back have started to produce some deep red buds at the bottom, you can‘t see it on the big buds yet, but I hope that will change this week:) I cut one off by accident since I basically have to work blind on these two plants, so I added a photo of an unfinished lower bud. To me it looks like only the buds that get less/indirect light are red?

7ª settimana di fioritura💐 I bud della bella BLACK MUFFIN di SweetSeeds 💚🐘💚 adesso scoppiano di gioia sotto il sole della MARS HYDRO TSL 2000 🌞 Il raccolto è alle porte🍁🍂✂️ e per la ragazza c'è da bere solo acqua piovan💦💦

Well growmies ive been looking forward to the FastBud Tester 2307 , the more she went into flower the more the frost would build up , and that's when the terps came out 👉 Sweet , fruity 👈 Buds are tight and full of frost 👈 Couldn't of asked for better Genetics 😉 The smell coming from this girl during the entire grow was just dreamy 👈. Of course I have no clue to what she is but I like it...... Maybe FASTBUDS attempt at a Watermelon 🍉 Strain???? Amazing Job FASTBUDS 👏 I would definitely recommend once they release this one 👍 👉 Big thanks to all my Growmies out there in GD land 👈 Much appreciated 🙏 Thanks To MarsHydro for the TS1000 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14👉 All Weeks NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14👉 Weeks 2 & 3 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30👉 Weeks 4 to 8 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34👉 Weeks 4 & 9 👌👌

there was a lot of rain and temp between 14C- 20C .. so she was inside this weekend, most of the time, on my windowsill to keep warm.. yesterday she could go in garden again, but in safehouse..becouse i did not want to make purple rain! 😎👊 But still she has grown very nicely..👍 she is now enjoying the sunrays, on my garden table, she has missed all weekend!🙌 She looks very cute, but dont forget, she is still a lil'girl.. (so dont be a pedo, 😆.. girls are cute, women are beautiful.. #justsaying 😜..) But its true, she is on her way to become a beautiful woman..😳 (dont mind me, i am just having a kind of heatstroke, guess i was standing in the sun too long this morning 😳) ..Purple flowers on the way soon!😍 Happy growing for all✊ PS: Tip for everyone: use different browsers for GD (i use at least 3..) some browsers dont play videos and some browsers dont show emoticons.. and some browsers are just wack!👊 ***KISS! grow technique: Keep It Simple, Stupid!