She was looking sad and droopy before transplant (probably overwatering) but after about 10 days in her new home she’s looking much happier. Getting good growth.

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Week 5 Everything looks good and frosty .. I’ll add the futur vert uv LED’s in a few days

Day 22: Hey everyone! Update on the second grow: the plants are looking very healthy and seem to be growing much faster than the first batch. 🌿 I feel like we've already done a lot better with these plants compared to the first grow. What do you all think? Any thoughts or suggestions? Day 26 (Second Grow): Hey everyone! Exciting news: the plants in our second grow have names now too! 🌿 This will make it easier to identify and keep track of each one, especially if they get moved around. It should also help you all follow along more easily with the pictures we post. We've built a SCROG (Screen of Green) net for the plants in both grows. For those who don’t know, a SCROG net helps to train the plants to grow horizontally, which maximizes light exposure to all parts of the plant and promotes more even growth. We're using it to ensure all plants get plenty of light and develop a uniform canopy. Additionally, we've placed a hygrometer among the plants to measure the humidity between the leaves. We've noticed that the humidity sometimes exceeds 70% in those areas. We're considering whether we need more fans, an intake ventilation system, or if a dehumidifier would be a better option. We're leaning towards adding more fans to improve air circulation, but we'd love to hear your thoughts and suggestions! Stay tuned for more updates as we continue to watch both grows progress!

Auto Purple Hulk Auto by MSNL Outside 👉Sponsored Grow👈 W5F1 The weather was rainy with thunderstorms early in the week becoming hot, humid and overcast. I only got to fertilize once this week but with the super soil she doesn’t show any deficiencies. I fertilized with I49 grow 1 tbsp/gal & 2 tbsp I49 Flower. I added this more as a preventive measure since I’m seeing issues with AK-47xl also outside in super soil. With the extreme heat and rain, my purple hulk is a HULK. She almost doubled height (grew 15 inches) this week and is now 33 inches tall and starting flower. She demonstrates resistance to fungal diseases and bug damage. In the background noise on the video is Cicadas. When they hatch, they crawl onto a tree or plant and molt. The adult has wings. This is the empty body casing. This year there are some but not a lot as in many years of their 17-year cycle. As always, thank you all for stopping by, for the likes and most of all growers’ love and support. Stay green, growers love 💚🌿 💫Natrona💫

Last week of flowering and will be cut !!! Very well formed by dense heads along the branches. I just cut one top of the plant and it gave very good results! I smell the fruit! I have made some flush due to nutrients that i gave during flowering...💪

Mar 10th Week 13 All is well, plants are filling out nicely Mar 13th Fresh nutrients today Mar 15th Defoliation day hopefully this is the last time. Just taking off the major fan leaves

High winds with continuous rain make these girls strong...buds are starting to swell 4 weeks today being full moon...more rain should follow tonight into the week. Rain water is really the best for plants 💯

They all basically look the same at this point. Plant 4 popped a day later so it’s a little smaller. At day 12 I sprinkled some great white shark around each plant. And added just 1 tsp of green harvest bone meal.

Esta semana, aumentamos a tope la potencia de los balastros, 660w. Realizo la segunda y última poda baja en toda la sala, así nos aseguramos de que las plantas concentran los nutrientes en la parte alta, que es donde reciben más luz, además de facilitarnos el riego y el control de las mismas. En los riegos alternados entre abono y agua cada tres días, eliminamos Bio Vega. También realizo un segundo tratamiento foliar de Propolix, justo antes de que se apaguen las luminarias.

MY SAYING NOW IS: THE ONLY WAY TO GROW IS WITH THE HYDRO🤘 AND REACH FOR THE STARS WITH MARS🤘🤣. https://youtube.com/channel/UChU5ZWwNi-DvnO3oWVU3ceA So it's been 17 days under the new MARS HYDRO FC4800 and the TSW2000 and the girls are loving it.. leaves were straight up like they were at a rock concert just blowing in the wind waving their arms like they are in the moshpit🤣🤣 looked so sweet👍. after a day they have stretched so much I had to raise the light already to keep it at 14 inches above the canopy. Plants grow so uniform under these lights, canopy is always nice and even👍. it has a whiter light than the mars tsw2000. Being side by side in my 8x8 tent, I can really see the difference in the color of light. The FC4800 is more of a white light like natural light. Its the NEW blue uv Diodes they added to the fc series lights. I'm amazed at how good this light is already. Barely any heat comes off it. I can rest my hand on it when the dimmer is at 100% and it's just warm. I have it daisy chained to my TSW2000 and it works awesome👍 and I dont have to reach for the other dimmer to do both. One dimmer controls both lights. When I add more lights I will daisy chain them too and control 4 lights from 1 dimmer👍. I still love my tsw2000. It's been going almost non stop since I got it and no issues at all. I take a picture of the Diodes to see if any have burnt out or anything, everything is fine.  same thing with the heat it gives off is just like the FC4800. I can rest my hand on it without burning me👍. Having both lights on 100% because I'm in flower now, only raises my temperature about 3°celcius. Make sure you got some calmag and if you use reverse osmosis water (bottled water) or filtered water you will want extra calmag because it's filtered out of it👍. I CANT BELIEVE the amount of crystals the plants have already🤘 they just started getting bigger hair clumps and I didn't expect to see this much already👍 awesome lights do an awesome job. So it's looking good for these strains I made👍. These lights are perfect for every stage of growth for germination to flower. Just use the dimmers to reduce the intensity of the lights for whatever stage you are in. Plus they are easy to raise and lower them with the ratchet straps. MARS HYDRO'S recommended height for different stages is pretty accurate but different strains like different Temps and light sensitivity so that's something to look into, a more Mediterranean strain can take more heat and intense lighting. and you can just follow their recommendations for the height for each stage. I slowly turn it up in the later veg cycle until I'm at 75% about a week before I switch to 12/12 and after about 4 or 5 days into flower I'm at 100% with no heat or light stress👍. Mars hydro is awesome for their pricing for what you get👍. They should cost alot more than other brands but shhhhh don't tell them🤣🤣🤣🤣. Just kidding. they want to stay competitive with every brand but there stuff is always cheaper than SF and vipar etc. They know once you use mars hydro products you won't switch to another brand. Why pay more money for something that isn't as good. I've seen lights cheaper than mars but they are cheaper for a reason. They are built cheaper. My TSW2000 is fairly heavy too. But when it comes to getting lights you want some weight to it so you know it's built strong and sturdy and will last a long time.. I called customer service a few times and they will help you out with any questions you may have about the products and they are very well educated in their products👍 very helpful and very friendly. They are awesome 🤜🤛. I can't say enough about this grow tent too. The thing is a beast. I could use the canvas tent to make a trampoline and i doubt it would break its that thick👍 I've had some cheaper tents made of 600d canvas and they aren't that bad. But when you get a tent made from 1680D canvas material it's insane how strong and heavy it is. Before I put the tent together when I lifted the canvas to start wrapping the frame I said to myself.. LORD TUNDERIN JESUS this has some nice weight to it. It was the easiest tent to put together that I've ever had. I went inside with the lights off and got someone to turn it on after a minute or two to look for light leaks and there was none👍. It even blocks out some noise, so if your fans or filters are loud, once it is zipped up it gets quieter. this tent is awesome with So many ports and vents for whatever you need to hook up to it. It has frame bars down the middle and one vertical pole in the middle to keep it sturdy but the poles are made nice and so thick that they probably didn't even need a vertical bar in the middle. It has 2 separate 4x8 floor trays that divide it into 2 4x8 tents. All you need is a mylar divider to easily divide it in half. I love the stickers it comes with. It's nothing big to some people but I know there is lots of people that like them because you see them everywhere in people's tents and in pictures. I love them they are super cool stickers👍. It really locks in the light and temperature and humidity good. Lots of room for all the equipment I have to go in it and will get to put in it. Be good to bring camping too🤣🤣🤣🤜🤛. Thanks for stopping by and taking the time to read this and please leave a comment 🙏🤜🤛 if you have any questions about any of the products I use please feel free to ask me and I can help you out👍🤜🤛 I also know about all their other products too, so any questions about stuff I'm not using I can still help you guys out🤘 and ask about pricing if you're interested in anything and I'll see what kind of deals I can hook you up with. But don't just buy stuff.. let me know so I can talk to my friends at mars hydro and probably get you a better deal👍🤜🤛 https://www.mars-hydro.com Promo code: Rocknroll Instagram: @marshydropenny Here's some more information about these products I'm using: The goal of MarsHydro is simply to produce the best value grow tents in the  growing field and they didn't disappoint me at all. I'm beyond satisfied with everything. And with the most up to date hydroponic equipment at the lowest prices possible. Their grow tents have combined all their engineers and customers' advice to produce these unbelievable tents.. they really listen to us and change things to our liking so if you own anything from mars just contact them and let them know.. they take our advice and considerations VERY SERIOUSLY so don't hesitate to let them know 💪🤜🤛 The MARS HYDRO 8x8 Grow Tent interior is made of a unique diamond design mylar which is highly reflective. (Other companies mylar and reflective rate is as low as 50%, and it won't provide efficient light. They use thick 1680D oxford canvas, and being double stitched, it is tear proof and perfect for locking in the light. Their grow tent keeps 100% of the light inside the tent and helps your plants absorb more light. EXTRA-THICK material means No light leaks or rips at all.👍 Strong Stable metal corner adapters and poles are the trustful supporters of the tent. It's very sturdy, neither rusting or paint flaking off. quick and easy tool-free setup. They use heavy-duty metal zippers, with double layer black lining, by far the best on the market which creates a light-proof seal. The Easy observation windows are made by double layers of cloth. Observe the growing conditions of your plants without opening the tent and avoid disturbing your plants. The observation windows also serves to dissipate heat and ventilate the air. The tent includes 2 removable waterproof floor trays to hold soil and water. The removable tray can be taken out to wash easily. They guarantee the grow tents are easy to install even if you've never done something like this before. Clear Instructions and no tools needed! They also offer 30-day unconditional refunds for quality problems. Just contact their friendly 24 hours customer service 👍 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Promo code: rocknroll Instagram: @marshydropenny GET THE MAX FROM MARS👍: Welcome one of  the newest members of the Mars Hydro family🤜🤛🤘. The Mars Hydro FC 4800 480W LED Grow Light can accommodate up to a 4' x 4' area for flowering. It has OVER 2000 LED chips consisting of the best selling Samsung LM301B diodes which has a Luminous Efficacy of: 220 lm/W 0.2 W, 3 V mid power, Osram 660nm Diodes, Infrared light and UV LIGHT👍. It boasts the incredible efficiency of 2.8 µmol/J, maximum 2.5gram yield per watt with 30% higher Average PPFD. This High-intensity spectrum is beneficial for plants at all stages - from veg to bloom, and creates Big dense Buds👍. achieve 50% higher yields & quality compared with the old lights! Only consumes 480W for 4x4ft personal grows, and 3x3ft for commerical grow. It comes with a dimmer and daisy chain function with a  maximum of up to 15 lights, the master light controls the rest👍. Wide 6-bar design offers even & wide canopy coverage and can maximizes your grow space. slim 180° FOLDABLE DESIGN... YES I SAID FOLDABLE🤘🤣 , making it compact and easy to install, it's IP65 WATERPROOF and will give you no worries while growing in a humid environment and makes it a flexible high performance commercial grow light for enormous  SUPER FROSTY yields.😛😛😛. MARS GETS EM FROSTY BOYS👍 AWESOME HEAT DISSIPATION: The Low energy consumption FC4800 growing light has 6 passive-cooled bars and an aluminum heat-sink a removable driver  you can upgrade later or have it outside your tent. with zero noise  you can save up to 50% in your electricity bill compared to HID's or HPS lights! It also has a removable driver so you can upgrade it in the future or have it outside your grow space for better heat control in your growroom👍 UPGRADED FULL SPECTRUM: Yield Max Spectrum with enhanced red (Top-Bin Samsung 3000k-5000knm, Osram 660nm Deep Red), speed up blooming & fruiting, perfectly suited for full-cycle growing. The FC4800 LED grow lamp was born for Big Buds, perfect for commercial, grow tent, grow room, hydroponics, and all soil grows.👍 THE BEST SAMSUNG DIODES: THE FC4800 has Top Bin genuine Samsung Osram Diodes, combined with remarkable 2.8 µmol/J Efficacy, 30% higher Average PPFD, 50% less energy consumption, to maximize your yields. They give you a TRUSTED 3 years warranty 100% Satisfactory guaranteed!!! https://www.mars-hydro.com         PROMO CODE: rocknroll Instagram: @marshydropenny Happy growing to all my friends 🤜🤛

Start of Week 12 😉 Day 86 autumn comes too fast 😵😲😪 Day 88 time is running out 😲😯😧 Day 89 the weather turns to epic fail 💀💀💀 Day 90 the sun comes back again 😍👌 oh lord

#Crop King Seeds Planting 3 Seeds Using 2 Different Techniques to germinate the Seeds - The First 2 Seeds were germinated (Jul 2nd) using the water / paper towel technique * The seeds were dropped in a half glass of bottled water (It stayed afloat) and kept in a closed dark area. * After 12 Hours the 2 seeds were pushed down to reach the bottom of the glass using my finger. * After 24 hours the 2 seeds were transferred / Now using the paper towel method to complete the germination - The last seed was germinated (Jul 3) using just the paper towel method * This method took longer to break the seed surface. On Jul 6 Decided to transfer all 3 seedlings into the Aerogarden. * Seed G1 had about 5cm roots. Some flowers already sprouting * Seed G2 had about 3 cm roots. Still had seed top. * Seed G3 had only just cracked . No length

1/25 - Day 70 / Day 43 Flower - Feeding day I prepared a feeding solution that consisted of the following: - 1 gallon spring water - 5ml of FF Tiger Bloom (1/2 dose) - 10ml of FF Big Bloom (2/3 dose) Adjusted the solution to the following conditions before feeding: - pH: 6.5 - TDS: 328ppm - EC: .7 I gave each of the 5 gallon pots about a half gallon each of the solution, followed by enough non-fertigated spring water to induce runoff (approximately another half gallon). I tested the runoff for both of my 5 gallons and returned the following readings; Z51: - pH: 6.5 - TDS: 799ppm - EC: 1.6 Z52: - pH: 6.5 - TDS: 683ppm - EC: 1.4 Even though I've had my soil conditions dialed in over the last week, I'm still plucking off 5-10 leaves per day that have succumbed to chlorosis.

Was a lovely plant from start to finish. Very manageable and very much an Indica through and through. I'd probably defoliate and lollipop a little more if i was to grow this strain again.

Not much to add , first week of flower down

Day 51 : Watered with 2.5L each lady. I added as always 1 co2 tab per 4.5L . Also i added nutrients. The next one will be pure water. Her burns stopped and doesn't continue to burn new leaves. She lost a lot of power because of lack of energy. She is trying to produce some stuff , i am curious to see how this fight will proceed. Edit (Day 56) : Watered 1.5L pure tap water of 7.5ph and 360ppm. No co2 today. Just pure water with 0.5/L Cal-Mag. Buds are fattening nothing else.

Chopped on day 62, danky, earthy, slight gassy smells. Rock solid buds.