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Will update more. Easy grow super easy to maintain once I figured out my environment. They like to chunk up nicely. Definitely top and train outwards, it makes a huge difference in the plants. 7/19/24 a month after cure. i didnt do anything special or baby the curing process. these are thick and chunky feeling. breaking up a nug and i noticed the texture was different and the buds were so sticky that they kept sticking to my finger. they werent that sticky 2 weeks
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@Roberts
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Critical x Animal cookies Is just growing into her nutrition. I was running a little strong from beginning. I took the first leaves off as they were damaged pretty bad. She should be ready to go now. She has been growing under the Hortibloom solux 350. I pruned the tips on roots to keep them spreading wide vs down. Thank you Hortibloom, and Ripper Seeds. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g
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Dane, We all should help one another. Human beings are like that. We should live by each other’s happiness - not by each other’s misery. We don’t want to hate and despise one another, share the Joint. And mother earth is rich and can provide for everyone. We can Grow enough Happiness, In this paradise, there is room for everyone. We only exist to bring joy into the world and The way of life can be free and beautiful, but we have lost the way. Grow High and Give the world A smile. At the end we own nothing more then all our memories, lets make them amazing for everyone, nothing to loose only everything to win. A last kiss goodby, a second one, softer and long as a sign, that you are woth it. That Everyone worth who loved and give. Enought Hippie Talk, now have a nice day and an even better grow, thx for watching by. .
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First week of pre flower. Getting nervous about this transition stage, first plant ever, any advice on how to not screw it all up?!? Also, someone give me some feedback! I think she looks in decent health but I would love some experienced opinions.
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week 9 was a good week I watch my pollen sacks grow into beautiful pods cant wait to use it plant doing pretty good health and strong
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Hallo meine Garten und Pflanzen Freunde. Es ist soweit diese Schönheiten mussten leider früher dran glauben als gedacht. Wie ihr wahrscheinlich mitbekommen habt musste ich den Grow früher als geplant beenden. Ich muss aber sagen dafür dass die Pflanzen noch normal 4 bis 5 Wochen Blütezeit gehabt hätten kann sich das Ergebnis sehen lassen, bei allen Pflanzen. Mir sagt dass das diese Strains überragend sind, ich kann sagen das alle Pflanzen die im Raum 1 waren und wo ich die Ernte vorgezogen habe ein gutes Ergebnis geliefert haben genauso wie geschmacklich und von der Wirkung super sind, obwohl alle Pflanzen noch nicht ihr volles Potenzial entfalten konnten, bin ich sowie meine Bekannten sehr zufrieden. Ich Danke dir für deine Besuche und deine Unterstützung. Genauso danke ich Patricia von Zamnesia vom ganzen Herzen für die Unterstützung und die Möglichkeit in den Genuss so toller Genetiken zu kommen von Zamnesia.👌🏼 Die Pflanzen wurden auf eine harte Probe gestellt die sie mit Bravurös gemeistert haben. Auch ein großes Dankeschön geht an S&R Organics raus die mir immer mit Rat und Tat zur Seite standen und ein super Produkt entwickelt haben und diesen mit der Allgemeinheit teilt.
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@Diips
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d.71. had trouble uploading video, so i uploaded some screenshots from the video. d.72 shes looking better after the dose of orgatrex i gave her yesterday. d.73 buds getting bigger 🌞 d.76 i little bit of light bleach, burnt tips due to me readding the tabs and not being too gentle, so i might have broken a few roots in the process, thinking about maybe breaking the taps down to pieces next time ill be in the same situation with better timing, comparing to me re-adding more tabs too late. also im getting a ac infinity tent down the road. been having high humidity due to winter weather comming in
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Everything going nicely so far not much stretch after the first week and bud sites popping up everywhere. Day 66 - they were really bushy so decided to give them a lil hair cut, cutting away all the big fan leaves leaving all the bud sites. Day 68 - I fed them until run of today as going on holiday next week and have a pal sorting them out from Monday So far so good :) Will wait till end of the 3rd week and give them a little defoliation to improve air flow and light spread untill then there fed either everyday or every other day depending on when they need it.
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I have made a video to represent the 4 Weeks and four week mark (28 days old) this week has been pure progress and training! I actually made a boo boo this morning before feeding on 1 of my criticals and had to remove my pipe cleaners and postpone training as I have split the main stem into 2 (after reading about that today SMH) but I’ve dealt with this before and I shall wait for it to heal I have used plant ties and tightened it to hold back in place and now waiting game maybe 3-5 days while healing and I’ll scrog from there as I’m looking to go 12-12 at the 6 week mark! Hope you enjoy the video! Bringing a little difference to GD! I’ve added my ppm’s too as I have an EC/TDS meter now! Happy growing buddies!
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@CheeRz
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We are nearing the finish line! Both ladies look great, and the delicious aroma wafting from the tent brings a smile to my face every time. I think we should finish the run in about two weeks. 🍋🍋🍋🍒🍒🍒
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Heute am 20 BT habe ich die Pflanze beschnitten und ein wenig gelollipopped. Eigentlich hätte ich noch mehr Blätter entfernen können aber sie hat schon so genug Stress bekommen.
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@Kumba1190
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Woche 6 beginnt. Ich denke die Pflanzen füllen das Zelt jetzt gut aus und sind bereit für die Blüte. In ein paar Tagen werde ich die Pflanzen in die Blüte schicken. Ich bin gespannt.
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Hi friends. 🦍🦍🦍🦍🦍 beautiful next week behind me .Flowers and looks healthy and strong. I water the flower every two days. The fruits look beautiful. And the scent is incredibly amazing.💚
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@osmrducks
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Day 57: Girls looking good and healthy. Got the HLG turned up 100% pumping 500 watt to em! We shall see. Still only given around 500ppm nutes. Day 58: Got mostly cloudy with just a couple amber it looks like. I'm thinking I need to start flushing. Albeit, only on one plant. I will wait a few days more until I make a decision. Day 59: Still looking beautiful! Buds are getting thicker! Decided I will give MOAB till week 10 and check the tric's at that time. Prob start flushing at that time. Only time will tell. Day 60: Girls looking good. 👊 Not gonna lie, getting nervous as I do not want to cut em too soon or too late. This is a tough spot. The one has a ton of red hairs. It looked as if there was just a couple of amber that I found the other day. I was looking on the outside of the buds, also. So I know the inside is where I need to look. Just not wanting to jack with them too much. I will check again at end of week. Day 61: Busy. No updates. Day 62: These girls are starting to smell amazing!! I don't see any noticeable growth here lately. I'm hoping they start to bulk even more though as I think I am still seeing some clear trichomes. Day 63: Welp, all is well and no new updates. I been feeding pretty heavy so I will back off and just water tomorrow.
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@CalGonJim
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1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia
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Day 113 The leaves are still a healthy green, with only minor fading visible on the lower foliage, which is expected at this stage as the plant begins to draw stored nutrients from older leaves. The sugar leaves surrounding the buds show a perfect balance of color, and the pistils are gradually turning amber and curling inward, signaling that the harvest window is approaching. The plant's overall posture is strong, with branches supporting the weight of the buds nicely - a good indicator of strong stems and well-managed airflow. The grow space looks clean and stable, maintaining ideal environmental control for these crucial final days.
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Day 76: Watered the plants 0.5L with nuts 909 ppm, 1921 us/cm, PH 6.4 Day 79: Watered the plants 0.5L with nuts 875 ppm, 1861 us/cm, PH 6.4 Day 81: Watered the plants 0.5L with nuts 864 ppm, 1831us/cm, PH 6.4 Flushed one plant with 10L clear water