Likes
6
Share
She's really starting to bulk up now and look nice
Likes
7
Share
@DIY95
Follow
Blütewoche 7: Nachdem ich den Großteil meiner Frustration über den Fehlschlag verarbeitet hatte, entschied ich mich dazu den Plan doch nochmal zu überdenken und separierte die gezwitterte Übeltäterin ins leere Nebenzelt um diese schonmal auf die letzte Reise zu schicken. Wie man auf den Bildern erkennen kann kontrollierte ich die Pflanzen an Tag 100 noch einmal genaustens auf Pollensäcke. Diese ließen auch nicht all zu lange auf sich warten und es waren doch mehr als gedacht. Aber als ich mir die Terpene anschaute und feststellte, dass der Großteil schon milchig ist und die Pflanze im Vergleich zur ChocolateHaze beispielsweise von Samen wirklich verschont ausschaut, stellte ich mir folgende Frage.. Ist es unter diesen Umständen nicht sinnvoller , die Pflanze zu nehmen wie sie ist und dafür das Risiko zu minimiere nur noch mehr Samen zu züchten? Natürlich würde ich sie lieber noch 2 Wochen in Blüte lassen, aber wer weiß wie viel Müsli in 2 Wochen nachkommen können.. Ich will es nicht herausfinden 😒😅 Also bereitete ich einen letztzen Trank zu, welcher der Pflanze für die kommenden Tage etwas " beruhigen " sollte. - To be Continued -
Likes
209
Share
THIS IS ALL THE PHOTOPERIODS. PICTURES OF THE TRIMMED AND CURED BUDS AND PICTURES OF THE BUDS BEFORE I CHOPPED THEM. IM ALWAYS IMPRESSED WITH MARS HYDRO AND HOW FROSTY THE BUDS GET. EVERYTHING FROM MARS HYDRO IS QUALITY BUILT AND WORKS AMAZING 👏. www.mars-hydro.com www.marshydroled.ca PROMO CODE: rocknroll Instagram: @marshydropenny VISIT THE MARS HYDRO STORE AT: @marshydro_aliexpress BREEDERS AND SEEDS: DIVINE SEEDS: MAZAR, OPIUM, WHITE WIDOW, OG KUSH, PABLO ESCOBAR, DIVINE INDICA. AUTO WHITE WIDOW AUTO PABLO ESCOBAR AUTO WHITE RUSSIAN AUTO FRACTAL AUTO MONTREAL AUTO OPIUM AUTO KABUL AUTO MAZAR. WEEDSEED EXPRESS: GREEN CRACK, GHOST TRAIN HAZE, LITHIUM OG, CHEESE. DOCTORS CHOICE: DC KUSH, AUTO NIAGARA, AUTO ROCK MACHINE. EXOTIC SEEDS: HIPPIE BERRY, MALASANA GELATO, EXOTIC ANIMAL. GENE/MEME SEEDS: BLACK HELL. ORIGINAL SENSIBLE SEEDS: PURPLE PUNCH COOKIES, WEDDING CAKE, PURE KUSH, GORILLA COOKIES. SWEET SEEDS: BLACK JACK, GORILLA GIRL, SWEET ZKITTLES. EMERALD TRIANGLE SEEDS: GORILLA GLUE, MASTODON KUSH. SEEDSMAN SEEDS: BLACK SUGAR, PEYOTE FORUM, PEYOTE WIFI, BADAZZ COOKIES OG, PURPLE GHOST CANDY, STRAWBERRY BANANA GRAPE, L.A. PEYOTE KUSH, PEYOTE WIFI CBD, FUEL DOG, CRITICAL PURPLE KUSH. AMSTERDAM MARIJUANA SEEDS: GIRL SCOUT COOKIES EXTREME, GREEN CRACK. QUEBEC CANNABIS SEEDS: BRUCE BANNER, GREEN CRACK, QUEBEC CBD 20:1. I 💚 GROWING MARIJUANA: SKYWALKER OG, BANANA KUSH, CBD BLUEBERRY https://growdiaries.com/grower/rock-n-roll-randy https://greenbuzzliquids.com/ #greenbuzzliquids @GreenBuzzLiquids https://greenbuzzliquids.com/en/shop/ PROMO CODE: rocknroll
Likes
23
Share
6/4/21 11 inches 6/6/21 13 inches 6/7/21 14.5 inches 6/8/21 16 inches 6/9/21 16.5 inches 6/10/21 17.5 inches Just watching the growth I still want to have space just in case it grows more I don't want it touching the light. Other than that everything is going good. 😁
Likes
40
Share
@Dunk_Junk
Follow
Week 4 done and in the books. I tried to limit growth of the side shoots during the week by pinching & crushing the stems. I will monitor the effect this has. Last week with her as main focus as there are some photo seeds growing alongside. I will veg them at 20h light hoping this blackberry is done before I have to flip those girls to flower. If this blackberry has to do a week or two on 12/12 so be it I'm afraid.
Processing
Likes
Comments
Share
I saw the first pre flowers today. She looks healthy, great growing. Still struggling to get ph down. Watering with 5.8 ph water.
Likes
13
Share
@BB_UK
Follow
Sooo I found out the rezin I been using is bad! Smells high in acid! Don’t know how as I’ve only had it a couple of months stored at around 16-18c so should of been fine but it’s no problem as next time I’m running my own tests to get a more economic on a budget all organic grow going for autos! Wish me luck!
Likes
Comments
Share
Overall she grew good. No harsh reactions so I'm happy to put some bud in the jar. She vegged out 20cm and got to 35-38cm and finished with a lovely fade. Amazing scents. (More to come after some review next month. This pheno gets 9☆ the other 10☆ as the yield on my last Highcloudz was like 3-4x. But the buds are of a much higher grade. So, its a very high rating. Just sad there's not much of it. In saying that, now that you can change the rating I've no doubts I'll be giving it a 10 upon my smoke review.. I've fems left so ill be doing a SOG soon and this fem will defo be in it. 15+3-4 grams i quick dried. This defo needs a cure. The taste is so confusing, I get the scents of watermelon, typical zkittlez smell with a twist, the confusing part. Is f there's different smells coming from different buds. Smoking there is a very light panty taste. Very stoney, uplifting, very happy with when I harvested. Has much more of an energetic buzz with a nice mellow high. Very strong but not couch locking so things can be done. It kinda puts me in the zone. Been one of my smaller harvests. I have 2g left to keep out for 2moro day, I'll be putting this on 4-6 week cure. I'm gonna leave it out for another 12hrs or so. The stuff that came off the stems just now is very very slightly till wet. It would be able to put into the cure jar, but would need a lot more burping. So, id rather leave it to dry out properly and I'll burp every 12hrs, leave lid of for 4-5m and after a week, I'll slowly start burping it less. Knowing how weed dries you really can't set times on curing you go with how the weed feels. There is no hay smell. (I didn't have any worries about a hay smell. My drying room is 15c and 60-63% RH.
Likes
73
Share
@guerilla
Follow
Stretching has stopped.. now i think they will start to get fat. Smell is so sweet now! 💚
Likes
2
Share
"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).
Likes
6
Share
Das Finale rückt unaufhaltsam näher: Die Permanent Marker von Traphouse Genetics befindet sich nun kurz vor der Ernte und zeigt ein beeindruckendes Reifestadium. Aktuell wird die Pflanze intensiv gespült, um Nährstoffrückstände aus dem Substrat zu lösen und so das volle Terpenprofil sowie die Reinheit des Endprodukts zu maximieren. Ein genauer Blick auf die Trichome offenbart bereits die gewünschte milchige Trübung, während wir nun geduldig auf den perfekten Bernsteinanteil von 10 bis 20 % warten, um den idealen Erntezeitpunkt abzupassen. Die Buds sind massiv angeschwollen und verströmen ein Aroma, das die außergewöhnliche Qualität dieser Genetik ein letztes Mal unterstreicht, bevor dieser erfolgreiche Run seinen Abschluss findet.
Likes
Comments
Share
@Stecl
Follow
Organic, Die letzten 2 Wochen nur mit Wasser gegoßen
Likes
7
Share
@Epwood
Follow
The holiday season got away from me a bit and prevented me from getting an update in on Monday but the plants are _really_ taking off. There are now visible bud sites and plenty of them. *Full Disclosure*: I've significantly upgraded my light in my flower tent from a Spider Farmer SF-2000 to a Spider Farmer SF-4000 and, as such, I'll likely see my yield take off quite a bit this grow. It's certainly having an impact on the heat in the tent and, subsequently, the amount of time the in-line fan is running; that being said, the plants appear to be responding quite well! The last two grows I've run have fallen off hard (complete and total yellowing/chlorosis and drying out regardless of consistent watering/light/nutes/pH) around week five of flower and, with that in mind, I'm trying to keep this grow as simple as possible. I'm purposely using no advanced grow techniques where I'd usually top, LST, and HST. The only "advanced" technique I'm using is a bit of defoliation but this is mainly just to avoid some of the dense bottom growth that tends to decrease air flow, increase humidity, and take away from more rewarding top-growth. This week, along with replenishing nutrients, I've fully emptied out and cleaned my reservoir. While doing so, I noticed a fair amount of red-ish algae growth which I'll likely address with more consistent cleaning of the reservoir and some sort of additive (I'd welcome any suggestions and dosage if you've got any suggestions). All in all, great progress.
Likes
27
Share
3/11/2023 Week 4- Day 1 of Veg (Day 38 overall)| As a precaution I changed out the water in the system today at the 1 week mark to try and make sure I am giving the most to the roots to ensure a healthy successful grow. Gallons into the system = 36 Gal Mammoth Silica =.5 Mil/Gal = 18 Mil Root Drip = 1 Mil/Gal = 36 Mil Cal Mag = .5 Mil/Gal = 18Mil FloraMicro = 4.2 Mil/Gal = 151 Mil FloraGrow = 3.8 Mil/Gal = 137 Mil FloraBloom = 3.0 Mil/Gal = 108 Mil ORCA = .5 Mil/Gal = 18 Mil I checked my lighting My target is 300-350 for this week. I will bump it up to 400 on Week 5. PPFD = 351 Tent Conditions when I opened the tent I was at 59% humidity however I had the doors open for an hour while I changed the water out and re-mixed Nutes so it was at 48 when I closed the doors but I have a Firebird controller which is set for 60 to bring it back up. Water Temp on Change out = 69.4 PPM= 514 PH= 5.93 3/12/2023 Week 4- Day 2 of Veg (Day 39 overall) Everything is going good so I decided to de-foliate some. 3/13/2023 Week 4- Day 3 of Veg (Day 40 overall) Humidity at 61% Tent Temp at 78 Water Temp at 75.3 PPM=574 PH 5.89 Happy, Happy... I topped 2 nodes on Plant #3 and 1 Node on Plant #2. Everything looks dialed in (Finally). I will be changing out the water this weekend and as long as everything looks good I will go back to only changing out the water once every two weeks. 3/14/2023 Week 4- Day 4 of Veg (Day 41 overall) Not much to report.. I defoliated a little bit today and took a couple tops off each. 3/15/2023 Week 4- Day 5 of Veg (Day 42 overall) Nothing to much to report. Took a few leaves today and a couple of Nodes topped on each of the plants. Everything seems to be dialed in for now. 3/16/2023 Week 4- Day 6 of Veg (Day 43 overall) Took a few leaves today and a couple of Nodes topped on each of the plants. 3/17/2023 Week 4- Day 7 of Veg (Day 44 overall) Last Day of Week 4. Water change tomorrow and it looks like I will be back to only having to chance the water every 2 weeks. Here are the end of the week Conditions. #2 10 1/2 Tall 20 Wide #3 11 Tall 21 Wide Water Temp= 74.8 Tent Temp= 78.3 Humidity = 61 PPM = 586 PH 5.80