8/30/17 It's been an emotional week, sorry for the lack of updates. I finally had to admit that 4 of my plants, while fully pre-flowered, did not auto-flower under 20 hour lights. The decision was made to remove them from the tent. It was a tough decision made easier as Auto Speed Bud #3 reached over 130cm and was touching the light, blocking light from plants that WERE flowering. There was really no choice at that point. So I spent 2 days trying to find them a new home. Yes, I had grown attached. Yes I found them a home. They have been transferred to soil and will be going under 12/12. I don't really know the guy well who ended up with them (a friend of a friend), so I don't know if I will ever know how they did, but they were part of my first grow so I am glad they got adopted rather than me having to kill them. In other news, I have had to start adding stakes to keep buds from falling, notably on the Kush (my superstar and only LST plant) and the Mango Cream, which seems to have hollow stems. I was concerned about this until I read up on it and hollow stems are a sign of no lockout or deficiencies and good nute uptake. They certainly look beautiful, so this is good news. However, so far 3 stakes have been added to the Mango Cream, so I hope I didn't damage the roots too much. I am looking into an alternative to stakes for the next go round. I didn't expect buds that heavy, but I ain't complaining! Slight Changes in nutes: Current feeding FloraMicro 4ml gal FloraGrow 1.25ml gal FloraBloom 8ml gal SM-90 2.5ml gal Cannazym 2.5ml Gal Ful-Potential 2.5ml gal Liquid Koolbloom 2ml gal Floralicious Plus 1ml gal ArmorSI 1.5ml gal CaliMagic 3.75ml gal (still running it high, but after seeing water report, I might have been wrong to use GH hardwater micro) FloraNectar 5ml gal Drip Clean 0.4ml gal Flora blend is out this week, Grow is out next week. Switching from Ful-Potential to Ful-Power when I soon finish the bottle. Nothing wrong with Ful-Potential, I just keep hearing about how good the chelation in the Ful-Power is, so I am game to try it since I need more Humics/Fulvics anyway. It is worth noting that I am now running ALL the GH nutes at full strength with no hint of burn. I am tempted to push them, but being my first grow, I don't think I will. However, this is a solid foundation for me to tinker with formulas for my next grows. The medium and my setup has performed wonderfully so far, and if the harvest is a success, I will certainly be more confident to experiment further. I may, however, use full strength Ful-Power which recommends reducing nutes by 10-20%. Instead of increasing nutes, full strength Ful-Power may give me the boost I am looking for while minimizing burn potential. I love that coco helps buffer and flush things, by nature, that the plant isn't using. I am so stoked that I ended up choosing coco for my 1st grow, but that is another topic for another day! I have edited the diary to reflect the loss of 2 strains and the title to reflect the current reality. Perhaps I should have left them unchanged. I am not sure. However, the diary title and strains are correct at this point. So there it is. I am now attempting to feed all 6 plants every day. There will be some days that I miss, but so far my 10 gallon bucket produces enough runoff on 6 plants if watered daily and most people who end up adopting this late stage strategy often would double/quadruple it if they could spare the time and/or afford the nutes. Once a day seems a good enough way to take advantage of the benefits of the medium without diminishing returns. I wish that I had the type of life that allowed me to set up proper control groups to test this stufff. I have also permanently started emptying the dehumidifier into the nute bucket as it has a PH of around 5.3 (my tap is around 8) and a ppm of around 8 (my ppm varies from 150-200 since i have been monitoring), 1-2 gallons a day to help out. I am loving it as much as PH down with white vinegar. I also obtained a water quality report and found that although my agency adds chlorine, they do not add chloramine so airing the bucket out for 14-16 hours after filling from the tap and cutting it with dehumidifier water should remove any threat to the beneficial living things that I have added to my girlies, so this is good news. 8/31/17 Man, I wish I used stakes from day 1. Every additional stake I put in makes me cringe and more stakes are becoming necessary. I am just lucky they are so healthy.

Noticed some yellowish lower leaves last few days I had cut down the nutes a little but it looks like a nitrogen deficiency from what I've read. I fertilize a week ago but less strength I guess it needs more so tomorrow I will be fertilizing all the big plants im still using grow ferts as my auto looks a bit too yellow to soon I feel like I started bloom nutes to soon on the auto. I've been fighting a little bud rot on the sour but I haven't found any in a week so hopefully I caught it in time. I'm also fighting some catapilars which I've read leads to bud rot. The humidity has been super high lately. I'm thinking im going to harvest the sour desiel this time next week.

This pheno turned out to be absolutely gorgeous in color and smell. Piney and fruity. One of the bigger yields in the tent and a very unique growth structure due to the fasciation. I am really excited to dry and trim these big beautiful buds. The smell is delightful too. I may try to reveg this pheno. I wanna grow this one again! 3rd phone is getting flipped to flower now. Will give actual dry weight once done drying out. Smoke report coming soon too.

Goin into Week 2

No trimming required on this strain everything came out fire no larf all rocks. Cheers and happy holidays to all growmies 👊

Day 56....buds developing nicely....laid off any nutrients for the last week and considering just one more spirulina feeding, then just well-water for the rest of the grow, with no flush....pollution/haze levels high which might effect the plants

Plantitas sanas.

Nothing interesting to say... I just added some Humic Acid Plus and Growzyme to my More Roots from Green Buzz in my Terra Soil Mix with every watering. 🎼 The plants just woke up into this world, so to celebrate their birth and welcoming them as the princesses they tend to become, I decided to play some Prokofiev's Peter and the Wolf & Tchaikovsky's Swan Lake on a Bluetooth speaker during each watering or simple courtesy visit I made. Yet notice that Rossini's Barber of Seville & Vivaldi's Four Seasons was used as a booster during the second part of the week.

La White Runtz è andata a salire più di tutte con un gambo principale enorme e i vari rami laterali anche loro vanno su molto verticali senza aprirsi per cercare luce✨ Anche le foglie prendi sole sono enormi, ieri le ho bagnate con 0.6L 1500ms/cm ph 6,6 (21ºC) usando fertilizzanti Atami e Canna La prossima volta sciacquio e poi saliamo a 1600 EC 😃🙌🔱💯💚🎬✨

Due to the speed of growth, breaking was necessary.The girl got through it without any problems.Three branches were ultimately broken.From today I change the light spectrum to harvest (UV light will join).

BCN Power Plant Week 13 11L Pot LED: SP250 (245W) for Flow. Stage Canna COCO Mineral Nutrients: 👇 Sensi Cal-Mag Xtra: 1 ml/L Power House Part A: 1.5 ml/L Calcium Plus Part B: 1.5 ml/L Stimulus: 1.5 ml/L Bud Explosion: 1.5 ml/L

Slt, déjà la fin de la semaine 5. Les plantes ont très bien récupérées de leur topping et de leur défoliation. Les plantes semblent être en bonne santé. Je viens juste de refaire une défoliation et du LST, pour avoir la structure voulu et donner toute l’énergie de la plante pour les tiges principales, en espérant que cela soit profitable aux plantes. J’espère ne pas m’être trompé.🙏 En photos et vidéos je montre avant et après la défoliation et le LST, et le fonctionnement du sytème d’irrigation. A la semaine prochaine... Happy grow😎 Ps: le rendu des couleurs sur les vidéos et photos peu être bizarre à cause de la LED.

We didn't have much hope for this one, hence the light documentation... her PH was a rollercoaster for a while but still managed to yield around an oz..not too shabby for a plant we nearly tossed... if we grow this strain again it will most certainly be grown outside in the garden.. I believe this could of been a very large auto given optimal conditions...happy growing everyone!

Chopped tonight so not weighed them yet will do tomorrow if I can. Ended up with 290g for 5 plants But 5 same seeds and 5 different pheno's. Judging by the looks the heaviest weight is from the one I topped . Already weighed one plant got 28g dry weight. Got 4 more babies chopped tonight

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables," so to speak,k right before the lights come on. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules, which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth.

December 18th Spray water with succulent plant food for little while during flower