19/05/2021 la mattina dopo aver lollipoppato ho trovato le teste delle apicali tutte a curvate verso giù credo sia dovuto allo stress..... oggi andrò a visionare se si sono riprese dal stress dubito proverò a risolvere l overfert alzando tutta la lampada in cima al box(poca luce=poco mangiare) per 4 giorni.... e cercherò di guardare un po le radici delle baby perchè ho il sospetto che l overfert si un conseguenza di troppa irrigazione d acqua.... se cosi non fosse credo che laverò il terreno tutte le mie bimbe sperando iniziano a schiarirsi un po dal quel verde scuro altrimenti niente fioritura.... restate connessi 21/05/2021 ho alzato la lampada a 90cm per farle riprendere dal forte stress lo tenuta cosi per 48 ore... andrò il 24 a vedere cosa e successo...

Día 92 (14/04) Riego con 500 ml H2O EC 0,45 Ha bajado algo la temperatura promedio Día 93 (15/04) Riego con 500 ml H2O EC 0,45 Reviso los tricomas y aún le faltan unos días... Día 94 (16/04) Riego con 500 ml H2O EC 0,45 Día 95 (17/04) Riego con 750 ml H2O EC 0,45 Tiene mucha sed! El tiempo está loco por aquí! Picos de 27 ºC en abril... 😵‍💫 Día 96 (18/04) Riego con 1.000 ml H2O EC 0,45 Día 97 (19/04) Riego con 500 ml H2O EC 0,45 Día 98 (20/04) Fiesta de la Cosecha! Reviso los tricomas y están un 10% ambar, 85% nublados y 5% transparentes Perfecta!

Hi, La sénescence se fait naturellement du fait d’une légère carence en N, j’ai quand même ajouté du Power Clean pour l’accélérer et améliorer encore plus le goût et l’odeur. Les couleurs violettes se propagent petit à petit vers le bas de la #2, et très légèrement sur la #1, comme des reflets. La puissance du panneau LED a été abaissé sur 55% La floraison est prévu pour 7-8 semaines et pourtant j’en suis à 10, sûrement du à la carence post stretch qui a ralentit la floraison et réduit le rendement ; J’ai observé les trichromes le 28/10, ils sont presque tous laiteux et les premiers ambrés arrivent doucement.. A la semaine prochaine 👋

With no doubt these plants have not produced much more quantity and density of buds due to the 2 serious mistakes I've made (those who have read the weeks will know what I mean). However, I can say that I am happy with the production obtained given the mistakes made. Between the 2 plants, the one that has produced more and generated the most dense buds has been the Gorilla with the Man-lining technique applied, it has also loosed a bit less weight drying than the non man-lining one. In comparison with the Money Makers with which they have grown the result is the same. Both Gorillas have each produced more than any of the Moneys comparing them 1 to 1. Also buds are a bit dense than the moneys, but none of them is really desde at all. *****ESPAÑOL***** Sin duda estas plantas no han producido mucha mas cantidad y densidad de cogollos debido a los 2 graves errores que he cometido (quien se haya leído las semanas sabrá a que me refiero). No obstante, puedo decir que estoy contento con la producción obtenida dados los errores cometidos. Entre las 2 plantas, la que más a producido y ha generado cogollos más densos ha sido la Gorilla con la técnica de Man-lining aplicada, y también ha perdido un poquito menos de peso en el secado que la otra. En comparación con las Money Maker junto a las que han crecido el resultado es el mismo. Las Gorillas han producido cada una más que cualquiera de las Moneys comparándolas 1 a 1. Así mismo, los cogollos de las Gorillas presentan un pelín más densidad que el de las Moneys, aunque realmente ninguna de las 4 plantas ha generado cogollos densos del todo.

Was away this week but plants seem to be fine slight yellowing on the tips of the zkittles new leaves. Soil is very dry as they haven’t been watered in 5 days. Only slight drooping in some of the leaves though. Will be watering after this post. The buds seem to be developing nicely.

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Beide Mutanten machen sich wirklich sehr gut. Anfang der 5. Woche wurde umgetopft, wurde auch wirklich Zeit wie man sieht. Ist wirklich super durch gewurzelt😎 3 Tage nach dem umtopfen wurde dann auch schon getoppt. Habe mich natürlich dafür entschieden, dass ich die 3 Triebe von der Mutation mitnehme um so 7 Haupttriebe zu erhalten. Es sind tatsächlich 7 da die ersten beide Triebe an Nodie 1 auch sehr gut ausgewachsen sind und nicht unterentwickelt. Wenn die Muatenten weiter so wachsen wird nächste Woche schon wieder getoppt. Umtopfen und topping hat sie wirklich mehr als gut vertragen👍🏼

Comecei treinamento lst com cabos de eletrecidade rega sempre com pg 6.3 com agua desmineralizada

Light settings 12/12 on at 9.00am off 9.00pm Light power= 62% 150w Radiator settings LIghts on Turn on if temp drops below 23c Turn off if temp goes above 23c Lights off Turn on if temp drops below 19c Turn off if temp goes above 19c Dehumidifier settings LIghts on Turn off if humidity drops below 60% Turn on if humidity goes above 60% LIghts off Turn off if humidity drops below 62% Turn on if humidity goes above 62% Extractor settings temperature 24c with 1c steps Humidity 54% with 2% steps Max speed 9 Min speed 4 VPD aim 0.8-1.2 Wednesday 1/3/23 Day 36 Autofeed 5 15 minute runs Water 10L Ec=0.21 Ph=6.5/7.0 3L left Roughly 2.3L each. #2 run 0.1L Ec=3.86 Ph=5.7 7.15pm Lowered light 3cm #2 DLI= 25.5 Thursday 2/3/23 Day 37 10.00pm Extractor settings temperature 24c with 1c steps Humidity 54% with 2% steps Max speed 10 Min speed 5 Friday 3/3/23 Day 38 Autofeed 5 15 minute runs Feed 10L Ec=1.73 Ph=6.3 2.5L left. Roughly 2.5L each. #2 run 0.6L Ec=2.14 Ph=6.1 Saturday 4/3/23 Day 39 5.00pm #2 Height= 30CM Dist= 38CM DLI= 26.6 Lifted lights 3 clicks and Lst and defoliate Sunday 5/3/23 Day 40 Bit of Lst and scrogging Monday 6/3/23 Day 41 Autofeed 5 15 minute runs Feed 12L Ec=1.78 Ph=6.3/6.3 4.5L left Roughly 2.5L each. #2 run 0.25L Ec=2.4 Ph=6.1 #2 DLI=26.9 Lifted light #2 Height= 31CM Dist= 45CM DLI= 20.7 Tuesday 7/3/23 Day 42 (Day 14 flower) Radiator didn't come on when it should have. It was cold today and I don't understand why the sensor didn't trigger the Radiator. #2 Height= 31CM Dist= 45CM DLI= 20.7 The 2nd week of flower has gone well. I have tried to keep the canopy of the overall grow as level as I can, the only problem with running different strains is they all have different traits and grow at different speeds. Nearer the end of the week the weather started getting cold again so the radiator is going to be working a bit more over the next week or 2. #2 Tropicana Cookies FF stil hasn't started stretching, she is mega bushy and has quite a cool funky look to her, I haven't managed to spread her out as much as I wanted to so I'll hope she will be OK. Power used for week Light (1.77+1.84+1.84+1.84+1.84+1.83+1.84)=12.8Kw Extractor (0.19+0.24+0.25+0.27+0.31+0.31+0.41)=1.98Kw Fans (0.48+0.47+0.47+0.47+0.47+0.48+0.48)=3.32Kw Dehumidifier (0.69+0.65+0.0+0.01+0.6+0.02+0.69)=2.66Kw Radiator (3.3+3.98+3.38+3.16+3.8+3.31+4.07)=25.0Kw Water pump. (0.02+0.0+0.02+0.0+0.0+0.2+0.0)=0.24Kw Total for the week=46Kw Back in a week. Thanks for stopping by.

Cultivation was very easy in terms of vegetation and up to half of flowering, where I encountered difficulties and ended up postponing their harvest. drying Purple presented 220g wet and 39g dry. I can smell a fruity scent on it and I see a lot of resin. I'm happy with the result but I still want a 50g plant.

Now they are in 15 liter felt pots. I did some defoliation to open up the lower branches.

Mr. Pipi welcomes you to the 15th Week of Grow and the ~6th week of flower. I guess the Colas stopped bulking up as quickly as at the beginning. Sadly, but that´s nature. Maybe a last time watering with molasses and then the next 2weeks flushing. Maybe some ice cubes to see if she gets purple, but i doubt it :D Day 107: its exactly 7 weeks since Mr. Pipi switched light cycle. Girl is starting getting purple.

Moved to feeding .5 liters every other day wondering if they are still be watered too much. Any advice would be appreciated as this is the first time we have grown.

Hello Guys, Hope you are doing good. It's time ! Harvest time ! I'm very happy, it was a good and very interesting grow. You can find all the details of the harvest into my tutorial video. No problem except sticky fingers ! but that's good problem. I will keep using the nutrients until finishing it and then I will try their bio product to compare. I tried a new things for the harvest as currently it's summer time and it's very humid, I read that you should let your plant dry into her pot for around 1 week so it's what I did after flushing. You can see that the fan leaves was already very low so you can tell that the plant enterred into drying with the minimum of water. I don't know if it's saved my harvest but I haven't got any issue during the drying. Take care all Sawyer

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Hi there Friends🕊️ Last week the Banana‘s left Stem snaped. I covered it in tape and it didnt dry out. The i removed it Like 2-3 days later because i wanted to cut the branch off, to let the plant spend her Energy in the healthy ones. But the i saw how strong it got and decided to even LST the broken stem even more because it strenghtened the left over parts. Now it recovered really good and got a defoliation. Maybe i will Cover up the Open Crack🤷‍♂️

Still some minimal LST. Lots of tops. One plant super purple in color. Other plant still green and no purple at all. Huge difference in the plants though. One is lighter in color, taller, and slimmer. The other is dark green, shorter, and fatter. Both doing amazing. Added 2 new plants in the tent this week. All are loving life!

This strain was easy to grow, short and very bushy. The smell when drying has an incredibly strong earthy/chocolate aroma which is very pleasant🤤.

Oct 12: some bud progress but still slow flowering. This is a sativa leaning pheno so likely other phenos would be a bit faster. Getting some nice white trichomes but the pistils are still mostly white. Sunlight is weak now so I don’t know how much further she can progress. Weather is unusually warm so that helps. Oct 15: looks like the finish won’t be too bad…the flowers are maturing despite the weak and low sun. Removed most fan leaves that were shading buds. Still using the 730 nm far red light for a few seconds at dusk. Oct 16: moved it into position this morning but mistakenly turned it 180. Whoops, oh well, North side buds got a bonus day of sun. Oct 18: warm and sunny but the season will only last until the weekend. The buds are looking ripe enough and I’ll harvest them 3-4 days.