Harvest tomorrow. In the dark for 24hrs. First time growing an auto flower under the CO sun. Tomorrow will be day 70 from seed. Easy to grow.

42 days for my project - "Girl on the balcony on the north side" :) it looks really good, knowing what conditions she has to endure, this week there was not much sun, there was a lot of wind and rain, I used a little LST for the girl, the girl drinks = every other day 1.5 liters of water 6.3 ph, every 3rd watering I give biobizz nutrients :) good luck to everyone :).

Y nos fuimos a floración!! 🍀👨‍🌾🏻

Another easy week. Topped at 4th node. and just continue watering with balanced water. Check out our sponsor at Mars-Hydro.com and use code CGD2021 for a discount.

Wir haben einige Klone einer Eleven Roses gemacht, zwei von ihnen haben am ende doch überlebt und wir werden mit ihnen weiter machen. In diesem Tagebuch verfolgen wir denjenigen, den wir zur Blüte bringen werden. Für die Klonung haben wir destilliertes Wasser, Clonex-Gel und Kokostabletten verwendet. -Hier ein paar Daten zu der Sorte: Eltern: Appalachian Kush x Sugar Black Rose Genetik: 100% Indica Blütentyp: Photoperiodisch Blütezeit: 8 -9 Wochen THC: 24% CBD: 0-1% Innenhöhe: 80-120cm Außenhöhe: 180 - 250cm Ertrag Innenanbau: Bis zu 600g/m² Ertrag Außenanbau: Bis zu 2000g/Pflanze Gattung: Feminisiert Bewässerung: 100 ml pH-Wert: 5,8 EC-Wert: 0,2 Temperatur: 28ºC Luftfeuchtigkeit 75% Schädlingsbekämpfung: PPFD: 200 µmol/m²/s DLI Düngemittel: Besonderheiten: Wurden direkt in die erde gepflanzt in einer Kokos-Quelltabletten. -Tag 8 da wir uns entschieden haben die Mutter Pflanze normal wachsen zu lassen und eine zweite Photoperiodische in den selben Zelt zu ziehen haben wir die Klonen an die Fensterbank verfrachtet. -Tag 14 so wie es aussieht haben es zwei geschafft, der mit den Wasser aus der Brittakanne und dieser geschafft 😍

Wachsen und machen ihr Ding, kein Plan wie ich die Scheiße alles waschen soll

Semna de transição para flora!no momento nao apareceu nada de pestilhos brancos!para minha felicidade estao muito grandes e vai ficar maior depois do esticamento! Espero atualizar na próxima semana ja com flores nessas lindas garotas do senhor soma!bom voygem

Finnaly its the 1st day of week5 in flower. The smell of barries is invaiding mi tent 😂🌲🌲👌😘 Il give her 1 more week /2 week's and se how she goes... Have a good one growmies in Still thanks for the support ❤️✌️✌️✌️😎

Happy this grow cycle is over. I will give more attention and focus next time I work with these

Hey now, this week went pretty good. She grew a couple more inches but she is now just starting to stack some flowers. I did add a small dehumidifier to the tent and that is keeping the humidity around 50% in the tent so I am pretty good with that. I also added another CO2 bag from Arbico organics, they make them up fresh so your not buying a solid block that has already been sitting on a shelf somewhere for a month or two. I am thinking she will be ready in around 5 weeks or so, and I can't wait. I hope everyone had a great weekend, thanks for stopping by, stay safe and Blaze On!

35 days after planting seed. Plants have bushed out quite a lot more this week and gained some height. I don't think it is flowering yet, but I expect them to begin soon. Temps problem has come back the last couple of days I have struggled to get it over 15c. Plants appear to be healthy apart from what looks like nute burn on a few leaves. Decided to cut back on the rhizotonic this week, will probably cut it out altogether next week. A few changes to the set up this week, changed light from Meizhi "450w" to a Meizhi "900w" and put turned my autopot system on. I have noticed there are lots of lower branches developing underneath but are not able to get much light as are under a dense upper canopy of large leaves. would I benefit from any sort of cropping?

All feeds with nutes use either a whole ratio, or combination, of "Veg Mix" and "Bloom Mix"concentrates. These are/will be DILUTED in water until a total ppm of add-in is reached using a (Total Dissolved Solids) TDS Meter measured in PPM (parts per million). The "Veg Mix" concentrate will eventually be added-in larger, then smaller, ratios while the "Bloom Mix" concentrate will eventually replace the "Veg Mix" concentrate entirely. The ppm and ratios will be listed when I feed. Veg mix recipe is on week 3. Bloom Mix recipe is on week 5. Day 91/21 Replaced the small modified tomato ring with a full size 3 ring tomato support ring so I could support every branch. I made this decision on seeing a lot of my 90 degree breaks from yesterday as still mostly 90 degrees. I also removed the tape from around the split and placed a wire tie under that trunk to ensure it was secure. After that I also placed a tie on each cola split just past my breaks and another higher up as an upper support. VPD was great aagain today. 74F/55%RH/ Auto ILV but raised the fan setting from 4 to 5 so it didnt have run as long to get it back into range. PPFD was a bit off yesterday and today from all of the sudden changes, But I raised my lights today and returned the settings to 750 max and 550 lowest. This meant that I needed to move my fans as well. They are now on medium setting and all were checked for movement to as many branches as they can hit. Day 92/22 Watered for salt flush today. Used 3 gallons of purified water at 7.1ph water no additives. PPM was about 70 after ph'd. Ended up with ~ 1.25 gallons of runoff that showed 5.95 and 5.98ph on two meters. Top soil tested at 6.44, 6.63, 6.36, and 6.47ph for an avg of 6.475. Runoff also showed 1540 ppm VPD was controlled with having the door open for a few hours. Temps and humidity are 72F and about 50%RH with the door open, and about 75F and 55%RH with it closed. ILV still on auto fan setting 5. PPFD was adjusted to 820 max and 600 lowest - I used 1 hour total of IR at mainlight on/off with 15 minutes before and after switch. She got another 45 minutes of UV today as well. I plan to increase to 1 hour tomorrow. Day 93/23 Week 3 of flower and most all is well. I did however find some light burn. I say light burn because the only conditions that changed was 15 minutes more UVA today and the spots are on the leaves closest to the light. Feed yesterday was plain ph water and it improved both the topsoil and bottom runoff ph so I dont think it's a nute issue. My solution is to take control pics and reduce UVA back to 45 for another day or two to see if the condition persists or advances. Otherwise PPFD was about 820 down to 600. I used 1 hour of UV and 1 hour of IR at lights on/off Other than that it was a lazy football day while I just leave her alone. VPD was normal with humidity easy to control at 55%RH or less and temps ranging from 74-76F during the day and down to 66-68F at night. Day 94/24 Checked in on "light burn" control leaves and took pictures. My analysis is to reduce lights a little more so now max is 795ish. Went ahead with 45 minutes of UV light at mid day and 1 hr IR on the same standard I have been using. Fans still on medium and since I dont believe the spots are related, I plan to leave them on that setting. Overall I dont see much need to change anything at the moment with the spots not getting much worse or at least not that noticeable other than what has happened already and I already reduced the lights a little. If I can identify any more new spots today or tomorrow I will reduce by another 25ppfd. And if not, then the next day I will try 1 hour of UVA again. Temps and Humidity are controlled at the same 74-76F and 55%RH or lower. My plan is to keep RH that level throughout and possibly try to reduce again to as close to 45% as I can get. (edited) Day 95/25 Reviewed suspected light burn and didnt see any progression either yesterday or today against my control pics from the day before. So I went with running UVA for 1 hr at mid day again today. Still using 1 hr IR on the same standard I have been using. VPD was good today with same settings of 73-76F and 55% or lower RH. Day 96/26 No issues to report today. She still has what looks like light burn on the older upper leaves, but doesnt really look to be getting worse and the lights are not getting brighter by growth anymore so I plan to leave them where they are and back them down if I see it get more progressive. Conditions in the tent are the same as yesterday... like little to no vertical growth in two 2 days and no need to change anything. I 'do' adjust the ties daily to ensure they are not creating a pressure point. Most aren't even supporting anything and some are just pushing the cola back or out from others. PPFD is 800 max and lowest is about 580. I ran 1 hr UVA midday with the same 1 hr IR at 30/30 with main light schedule that I have been running. Temps steady. 73-76F in the day and 66-68F after lights out. RH% is 55 or less with the fan on auto. 97/27 Watering day. Started by testing /calibrating meters. Used 2.5 gallons of de-chlorinated tap water with starting ppm of 227, added ~700ppm of 100% Bloom Mix concentrate (actually 686ppm added) and ph balanced feed to ~7.0 tested on two meters. Fed until bottom drip began and got ~7cups in runoff after about 10 minutes of drain. Runoff produced 2 meter tests of 5.8ph with 1520ppm. Top soil was tested 4 times for an avg of 6.3752. Next feed will be sooner, thinking like in 4 days instead of 5 and I can adjust if she seems to dry out again. I'll be looking for ~1/2 gallon of runoff to estimate next feed from. Light burn doesnt seem to be getting any worse. UV lights are doing 1 hr a day, midday, for the rest of the week and then I will increase a little per day each week until harvest. IR is still doing the same settings until harvest as well. 1 hour with 15/15 before and after main light schedule and 1 hr total. VPD is controlled with no issues of temps or RH exceeding set limits. 73-76F and 65-68F overnight with no more than 55%RH while the ILV is set to auto.

Starts to pick up just a bit of purple. Some leaves drying but I don’t think it is any deficiency/overfeed but just late flower and putting all of the energy to the buds🙂‍↔️ Baby looking great, still stay pretty impressed she grew a real big ass 🐋

Mandarin XL auto is growing great. She is shifting more into flowering. I did a solution change on her 4 days ago. Today I lollipopped her canopy and selective defoliation in canopy. Just opening her up more so she can stretch more. Nothing more to report on at the moment. Thank you Medic Grow, Gen1:11, and Ganja Farmer. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

Inhale for 13s, Exhale for 13s, Inhale for 8s, Exhale for 8s, Inhale for 5s, Exhale for 5s, Inhale for 3s, Exhale for 3s, Inhale for 1s, Exhale for 1s, Alignment. 1.618 More energy, more blueprint. A plant with both standard cellular respiration (occurring throughout the plant, including leaves and stems) and adequate root respiration will have a significantly higher ATP throughput than one restricted to only general cellular respiration in a limited way. Cellular respiration is the fundamental metabolic process that occurs in all living plant cells (roots, stems, leaves, flowers, seeds) to convert glucose into usable energy (ATP). It requires oxygen and produces carbon dioxide and water as byproducts. Root respiration is not a separate type of respiration, but rather a specific instance of cellular respiration occurring in the roots. Roots absorb oxygen from the air spaces in the soil to fuel their energy needs. Roots require a substantial amount of ATP for essential functions like nutrient and water absorption, as well as growth and maintenance of their tissues. The primary form of respiration in healthy plant roots is aerobic respiration, which is highly efficient, yielding up to 30-38 ATP molecules per glucose molecule. Anaerobic Respiration (Inefficient): If roots are deprived of oxygen (e.g., in waterlogged soil), they switch to anaerobic respiration, which is far less efficient, producing only 2 ATP molecules per glucose molecule and also generating alcohol, which can be toxic and kill the plant. Therefore, a plant with healthy, oxygenated roots performing efficient aerobic respiration in addition to the rest of the plant's cellular respiration has a much greater overall ATP production and energy capacity. A soil without organic matter will generally have a low Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC). Biochar is often prized for its potential to increase soil cation exchange capacity (CEC), but this effect is highly dependent on the specific properties of the biochar (feedstock and pyrolysis temperature) and the soil type to which it is applied. High-ash biochars, especially those produced at lower temperatures and applied to acidic or sandy soils, can significantly boost CEC by providing abundant binding sites for cations like calcium (Ca²⁺), magnesium (Mg²⁺), and potassium (K⁺). Biochar is more sustainable than typical organic matter for long-term soil improvement primarily due to its high stability and resistance to microbial decomposition, allowing it to persist in the soil for hundreds to thousands of years. This longevity provides a lasting positive effect on soil properties, particularly by increasing the cation exchange capacity (CEC) over time, while regular organic matter breaks down much faster. Biochar generally offers a much higher CEC than coco coir, though specific values vary greatly; while coco coir might sit around 40-60 cmol/kg, biochar can range from tens to over 200 cmol/kg, with sources like Acacia wood biochar or even coconut shell biochar often surpassing coco's capacity due to its porous structure, creating significantly more cation-binding sites for nutrients, making it superior for nutrient retention. Needs to be charged similar to coco but at a much higger rate. But shhhh.. It's a secret. Recommend a balanced ratio of key cations, particularly calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), and potassium (K). A widely accepted general "ideal soil" cation saturation ratio is approximately 65-85% Ca, 6-12% Mg, and 2-5% K. That's roughly what I give mine. Can even add N in its NH4+ form

Frozen Black Cherry – Week 4 The Frozen Black Cherry is looking amazing this week! 🍒 I went ahead and lollipopped the plant to improve airflow and focus energy on the main buds. 🌿 I also added a spoonful of Greenhouse Feeding as a booster to give it that extra push. 🚀 The plant is developing beautifully, and the buds are starting to show great potential! 🌟 Can't wait to see how it turns out—stay tuned for more updates! 😎 --- Frozen Black Cherry – Woche 4 Die Frozen Black Cherry entwickelt sich diese Woche richtig prächtig! 🍒 Ich habe die Pflanze gelollipopped, um die Luftzirkulation zu verbessern und die Energie auf die Haupt-Buds zu konzentrieren. 🌿 Zudem habe ich einen Löffel Greenhouse Feeding als Booster drauf gepackt, um ihr noch einen Extra-Schub zu geben. 🚀 Sie entwickelt sich fantastisch, und die Buds zeigen schon jetzt großes Potenzial! 🌟 Ich bin gespannt, wie sie sich weiterentwickelt—bleibt dran für mehr Updates! 😎

Longer warmer days

Powder: GREENHOUSE BIO FEEDING Line which are organic! For LIQUIDS ******GREEN BUZZ LIQUIDS***** also organic. Also i’m using their LIVING SOIL CULTURE in powder form! MARSHYDRO ⛺️ has large openings on the sides which is useful for mid section groom room work. 🤩 ☀️ MARSHYDRO FC 3000 LED 300W ☀️Also special thanks to VIPERSPECTRA P2000 (200W) & XS2000(240w) LED growlights

June 9th - nutrient delivery on the 11th will also see a fence with 6” square holes, be wrapped around the 15 gallon pots for branch support. The 3 pots can then be anchored to the ground for Stability. - dressing the substrate surface (x 3) with a Mulch featuring Worm Castings. Then watering 14th - visited and fed, dinner posted above. 2nd feed in the feed-feed-water cycle. - plant continues to grow and continues to be beat-up by the high winds in that agricultural corridor. Shot a short video of how tough the winds have been. Weed is bloody tough. Then again its a weed - ea plant fed 1.5 gal ahead of this coming hot humid week ! 15th - last day of the week