🌱

I cleaned out the reservoir and switched from Veg to Bloom nutrients on day 36. My 35% Hydrogen Peroxide arrived, and that definitely makes a difference with keeping the reservoir cleaner longer, although I am still cleaning it maybe every 10 days or so, just a quick 2 min scrub with bleach/water, and then i run it through the pump and lines as well, then run plain water through it before hooking it all back up. The ONLY water I have used from my well this grow has been to clean my reservoir, everything else has come from my dehumidifer. I am now using some Cal Mag, Maxi Bloom, AND some Liquid Kool Bloom. I am running an EC of about 1450. My runoff from Coco is coming in around 1490 EC. Not seeing any issues with the ladies, just worried I may have waited a little too long to switch from Veg to Bloom Nutes, although I was adding about 25% Bloom for the past week or so. I guess we will see here soon if she gets some bigger flowers. Thanks for checking me out, and Blaze On!

It's been 66 days. I wonder is my plant ready to harvest? I searched harvesting to cannabis but i didn't get that all. I came accross a youtube video which is answering questions about growing cannabis, someone asked same question with me, that guy answered like that, when golden hairs came up you can harvest 21 days after that. I checked my photos couse to calculate when golden hairs came up, i guess i need 12 days more to harvest. If you guys know about harvesting let me know please.

Hi everyone, Weed brothers. Here we are ready for a new week of fire! My dolls have been transferred under a wider tent with the hope of opening up their final yield .... It's very hot ... let's get the best

Easy to grow. Only issue I ran into was the other strain being a male. If I grew this strain alone I would’ve filled out the tent with just this strain the yield would’ve reflected that. Keep in mind if the other plant didn’t get the chop this yield would be almost double. I will grow this cut again.

Changed out the nutes. Dropped the calmag and the Silica. Using just the Plant Prod MJ bloom. Gorilla Zkittles looks to have one plant that stacking. The other looks like it may be smaller yields. Time will tell and density of the bud definitely changes the weight.

I estimate another 2 to 3 weeks. Then I can harvest. I'm really looking forward to my 2 ladies 🤩😎

[DAY 78] - 12/12/2022 - TS1000 30 cm distance - 100% dimmer: 144 watt; - Light cycle 20/4; - Height: 83 cm from clay (the other one is 74 cm from clay); - 24° C - 60% RH during light - 19° C - 70% RH during night; - EC 1.4- PH 5.7. [DAY 79] - 13/12/2022 - 24° C - 60% RH during light - 19° C - 70% RH during night; - EC 1.6- PH 5.7 - Resin everywhere! [DAY 80] - 14/12/2022 - 24° C - 65% RH during light - 19° C - 80% RH during night; - EC 1.2 - PH 6. [DAY 81] - 15/12/2022 - 22.5° C - 73% RH during light - 19° C - 80% RH during night; - EC 1.3 - PH 5.7; - Defoliation; - I've never seen such beautiful buds, it's awesome. [DAY 82] - 16/12/2022 - 22.5° C - 70% RH during light - 20° C - 80% RH during night; - EC 1.5 - PH 5.5. [DAY 83] - 17/12/2022 - 22.5° C - 70% RH during light - 20° C - 80% RH during night; - EC 1.6 - PH 5.7. [DAY 84] - 18/12/2022 - 22.5° C - 70% RH during light - 20° C - 80% RH during night; - EC 1.6 - PH 5.5; - Buds becoming huge.

I just recently made a growdiaries account and wasn’t able to get one of my Gelato Auto by Fastbuds. But I was really happy with the results and wanted to show it off a bit. I ended up with 105 grams dry from the 1 autoflower plant alone! Also mid grow as I was entering the flowering stage I broke one of the bigger stems during lst so I know for sure I would have pulled a QP off of her alone. Really happy with that and not to mention the quality of nugs I got off of her.

Jour42 defolliation and LST Jour45 defolliation Jour47 arrosage avec de l'eau ph6.3 à laquelle j'ajoute 1ml par litre d'eau de topmax biobizz La plante entre maintenant en floraison c'est donc le début du stretch Explication en anglais (Stretch explanations more) EXPOSURE TO LIGHT One of the main culprits in abnormal stretching of cannabis plants is the lack of light. Plants that are too far from an adequate light source will respond by accelerating stem growth in order to get closer to the lamp themselves. Especially when there are many other plants. A lack of lighting can easily cause overcrowding in a growing chamber, reducing the steady progression of your crop and the distance ratio between your bulbs and your plants. To address this problem, be sure to provide enough light to your plants to prevent stem growth. At the same time, you should not position your lights too close to your plants either since this would also result in an over-stretching of the stems and in some cases, the loss of your crop. In addition to the distance between the light source and the plant, the type of light you will use also affects the size of the stretching of your crop. The orange and red lights encourage stretching and result in thinner, larger stems. And conversely, blue light stimulates a growth of thicker stems and a smaller size. When a species is ready to enter the vegetative phase and undergo its most drastic stretching period, metal halide lamps can be used to deter far too long stems. THE HEAT Heat is another essential element that can determine the stretch size of your plants during vegetation. Temperatures above 27 degrees push the stems to lengthen more and more and will propel the potential of sativas to push as high as possible. Heat lamps that are positioned too close to plants create an intolerable environment that will grow large, soft plants that will potentially wobble until they fall and lose flowers in its fall. OTHER CAUSES OF STRETCHING There are multiple variables that can lead to the stretching of plants beyond what could normally be expected of the plant. Environmental stressors resulting from transplantation (when a plant passes from one pot to another) can cause the plant to return to shock. This will eventually trigger a reaction causing a stretch. Cannabis plants that are not grown in decent conditions or do not receive enough nutrients will respond in a variety of ways and this includes stretching. Crops that are not spaced far enough apart are likely to stretch to sting the light to other plants. Due to extreme proximity, the plants will fight among themselves to reach the light, forcing them to expand as much as possible throughout the crop. HOW TO CONTROL STRETCHING DURING FLOWERING Stretching during flowering, you guessed it, takes place when you move your plants from the vegetation stage to the flowering stage. This is a completely normal reaction, as your plants are preparing to bear the weight of their heads. Stretching of a plant at the beginning of flowering varies widely; some plants can double in height while others grow only a few centimetres. There are, however, two main variables that can give you at least an idea of how your plants are stretching during flowering, and how much. Here are these two variables: Variety: Genetics has the greatest impact on the size of your plant. In general, sativa varieties stretch more than indicas and tend to develop long, slender stems. Light: Some lights, such as HPS, are more likely to encourage stretching. In addition, great distances between your canopy and your lights will cause the plants to stretch as they try to get closer to the light source. Stretching during flowering usually lasts the first two weeks of the phase. To minimize stretching, keep your lights between 10 (for CFL) and 30 centimetres (for HID) of your canopy. Finally, choose indica varieties if you have a smaller growing space. HOW TO AVOID STRETCHING In many cases, you can expect your cannabis plants to stretch during the flowering phase. Keeping that in mind helps to make a plan in case your species ends up growing much more than you could have imagined. If the information is available, get information on the standard size of your species and compare it to the size of your growing space taking into account the necessary distances between the bulbs and the plants. TRAFFIC While outdoor crop operations benefit from natural air to naturally limit stretching, indoor crops must assume the maintenance of air circulation within a confined space. Basic ventilation is enough to help the cannabis stems strengthen and become thicker rather than too high. In this way, the plants continue to grow vigorously without reaching heights and at the same time, your tolerance ceiling. MANUAL INTERVENTION For growers who want to get their hands dirty, there are physical procedures that can be done to reduce stretching. Similar to the natural effect that the wind has on cannabis plants, manually bending the leaves and stems will cause tiny cracks in the plant's tissues that will cause the plant to focus on regenerating its wounds instead of its vertical growth. THE TOPPING Topping is a form of manual intervention on cannabis to influence its performance, shape or size. In essence, topping is a process in which a new node is cut, growing from the plant to reduce its size and create a "v"-shaped notch that will eventually form two heads. Topping may be an effective measure to combat stretching, but it is important not to do so when the flowering phase begins. In most cases, an abnormal stretch of cannabis plants will not completely destroy your crop. In fact, stretching can indeed help increase your performance. For growers with a growing operation large enough to contain tall plants, stretching can increase the total yield of a species with more vertical space for head formation. In both cases, stretching can easily be planned in advance and there are multiple solutions to help you with this problem which is all too common. May the force be with you 💪

Скора переидзом 1.5 х1.5 бох

Defoliated some, lst the pink berry.

Plantitas creciendo sin problemas...

Hello my friends 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾, This 8th flowering week was good 👊, maturation Buds continue 🌲❄️, I thought it will be the last week, but need one more. The end is for this week end I think, for moment trichromes not really full milky, and I like something like 20% amber. I've started flush with flash cleaner The senesence is started on the #2 and #3. 💦 1 Watering this week 1.8l/plant . Water + flash cleaner PH@6 Lamp @100% Thanks community for follow, likes, comments, always a pleasure 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾❤️🌲 See you next week 👊👊 Mars Hydro - TS 1000 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ts-1000-led-grow-light Mars Hydro - FC3000 https://www.mars-hydro.com/fc-3000-samsung-lm301b-led-grow-light Mars Hydro - SP3000 https://www.mars-hydro.com/sp-3000-samsung-lm301b-greenhouse-led-grow-light The High Chameleon - Vannila T https://www.thehighchameleon.com/shop/vanilla-t-5

Still growing like a monster. 60 inches/5feet finally. Still in veg with minor small visual pistils. Continues to show 7 inch a week growth Back part of plant has been bent to increase sunlight spots/main tops

Just crazy. Stretched so high. Healthy strong branches with lots of bud sites. Defoliation next week

Hey guys so here are my c.a girls plump out quite nicely . Sorry about pics is so tight for space moving them around at moment just isn't an option . All going well bud sights forming all over . Til next week 😀

7/29 - Week 9 of veg is starting. At this point, it is just let them grow up a few inches, and also fill out the pots some more with roots before transplanting to 5 gallon fabric pots (their final homes). I also plan on mixing a 'flower blend' soil to fill up the 5g pot around the rootball that is transplanted. This recipe for the soil is taken from MaximumYield: Enhanced fruit/flower potting soil recipe This soil recipe is designed for plants that are ready to fruit or flower. In particular, this recipe works great for ornamentals that are already in bloom and for fast-growing annuals that are entering their fruiting or flowering stage. Parenthesis indicate small changes or products I'm using. 1/2 cu. ft. (60 cups) sphagnum peat moss (Promix BX) 1/4 cu. ft. (30 cups) coco coir (Mother Earth Coco Peat) 1/4 cu. ft. (30 cups) compost (either compost or manure) 1/4 cu. ft. (30 cups) perlite 10 cups pumice (likely to just use perlite here) 5 cups worm castings 3 cups bat guano (high phosphorus) 1 cup fish bone meal (using regular bone meal, got Jobe's Bone Meal) 1 cup oyster shell 1/2 cup seabird guano (likely to just add as the high phosporous guano) 1/4 cup alfalfa meal 1/4 cup fish meal (Down to Earth Fish Meal) 2 tbsp. langbeinite (Down to Earth Langeinite) 1 tbsp. glacier rock dust (Azomite ordered from Amazon) 7/30 - While technically the morning of 7/31, lights haven't gone out yet, so it is still the 30th ;) It almost hurts posting pictures today, because they were really thirsty, but I honestly hadn't looked at them for a couple days. Anywho, the plants were watered with ~1.25 liters of water each, about 90 minutes before lights out. Will be interesting to post the 7/31 photos after a couple hours of lights on, and see the difference in appearance. I also mixed the soil for flowering, and it will now have a couple weeks to 'cook' and become ready for the plants. I did make a mistake and accidentally added 1 cup of fish meal instead of 1/4 cup (oops), and the alfalfa meal just smelled too good, so I added 1/2 cup instead of 1/4. Hopefully those 2 'changes' don't add too much nitrogen for flower, but I imagine it won't. I also instead of adding perlite (didn't want to buy a 4 cu ft bag when I needed at most 2.5 gallons (1/3 cu ft), so I opted to add 1 gallon of pumice. Since the coco peat and promix both have perlite in them, I didn't want too much added. There were also some worms from the compost that made it into the tote that is now storing the mix, so life has already started in the soil. 7/31 - It wasn't just after lights on, as I didn't have time to photo earlier, but this is just about 24 hours after watering, and praying/looking good. I had noticed that it looked like the fan had slipped down the pole a bit, and was causing some wind burn/clawing of the leaves yesterday, which probably attributed to poor looks, but looking better today! While I am not that versed in checking preflowers, from what I can tell, if I had to guess, CH#1 could be either (maybe slightly leaning towards female, thought I might have saw a couple hairs), and the #2 actually looked male to me. 8/4 - After getting home from work, and realizing I hadn't checked on the plants in a couple days and I knew they were due for water either yesterday or today, I saw some THIRSTY plants. They each got ~1.2L of water, and also a quick trim back. After checking preflowers again, I am afraid that both Chinook plants may end up male :(

Week 8, 26 September - 2 October 2025 26- Sept - 2 Oct - Observed and let the plant grow. 1 Oct - Removed damaged/dieing leaves. This was the first significant removal of leaves from this plant. Only those that were damaged or dieing were cut. A plant this small needs as much canopy as it can get. You have to be careful not to remove too many leaves when the plant is in flower. - 2 Oct changed nutrient solution - 2 Oct updated feeding schedule - Using reverse osmosis water with EC/TDS at 0 - Adjusting PH to 6.1 daily using GH up/down - Nutrient solution EC 2.1 at 72 degrees F - Light power at 75%, DLI 45 canopy coverage at 18hrs - Using PYPABL, Air Pump, 400GPH That is it for this week. Thanks for the look, read and stopping by.

I found seed foeming and bananas so i decided to cut my losses before it got out of hand im just glad they got to where the are now first time grow first time using dwc and i fucked this shit up for a first timer you beauty