So exactly 12 weeks old today I’m checking trichomes every other day atm as there still clear!! Hopefully another week of feeding nutrients then the flush before harvest! Still happy for my first grow! The girls scout cookie auto plant has been impressive and the bcn critical has also grown steady!! Leaves are turning more yellow and bud hairs seem to be curling over more each day which is a positive! Feeding every two days, trying to starve them as much as possible! Do I reduce my light hours in the last two weeks of harvest???

She has entered her "flush" stage of low dose nutrients (as suggested by emerald harvest) and should wrap up in the next week to 10 days. Her smell is intoxicating and she is EXTREMELY sticky to the touch

Un hobby que demanda mucho tiempo, hago lo que puedo con los horarios, espero disfruten este crecimiento de las hermosas presentes. Primera semana de Floración, espero las raíces dejen de crecer, no tengo contemplado hacer un cambio de macetas 😬 Riego cada 2 días, para ser invierno toman mucha agua 2L. por maceta 6.3 ph.

Spray evolution 2.0 once a week and biosys instant microbe tea once a week

She’s been flowering for 4 maybe 5 weeks now initially I thought she was taking long because my 12/12 was a couple mins off giving it more light but corrected that n it just looks like it’ll be a long finish her but it’ll be worth it 😎

I have watered her twice this week, once with 3l of rain water and once with 3,5l of rain water. I will probably up the volume a bit more next week. I upped the nutrition a bit despite the burned tips. I will not be home for the next 2 weeks so I will rely on other people to take care of my girls, the pics might be not up to standard.

Lemon Cake & Lemon Drizzle Week 5 This week 5/5-5/11 Germination April 6. Vegetation Week 1 water only Week 2 water only Week 3 added recharge and TPS1 increased ppm to 570. Week 4 continues with recharge and TPS1. I added Fox Cal mag increasing ppm to 685 - 805. Week 5 TPS1 9ml/gal Recharge 5 ml/gal Fox Cal-mag 5 ml/gal This was an exciting week for my ladies. It started out with the usual feed and defoliation and training. With my upcoming vacation, I am going to be hardening off these ladies to relocate to their outside location. I checked the expected weather forecast for the week. Looks good to start hardening off. Partly cloudy with temps in the low to mid 80s just like in their tent. So that’s good. Night temperatures were in the 50-60s. This is much cooler than what they are used to as our house is at 73. Our summers are hot and humid with frequent thunderstorms. They need to get used to what mother nature will provide. I had planned to bring the plants back in the sunroom but since conditions were similar, I let them stay outside every night. And every night but 2 it rained. I did not water or feed nutrients this week. I am attempting the scrog technique on all plants. I am using a peony cage as the support structure. The cages are about 2 feet high. This may not be enough side or top support as she grows and may have to resort to tomato cages. Took pics May 6,9, & 11 Lemon girls both had mutations at germination. Lemon Drizzle split ot topped herself. This creates two main plant stalks. The primary and a smaller secondary stalk. Lemon drizzle has stretched above the scrog top opening up her structure. Today she has an erratic top canopy in multiple levels with multiple bud sites. Interesting her nodes have for this week started to develop off set from each other. Does that mean she is going into flower sooner than expected? Thanks for the visits, likes and comment, I appreciate all the plant love💚. Have fun & love what you grow 💚 Sending you good vibes of love, light, and healing 💫 💫Natrona 💫 BARNEYS FARM- LEMON DRIZZLE Lemon Drizzle Cannabis Seeds Type: Feminized Weed Strain Lemon Drizzle Strain by Barneys Farm Indulge yourself in the tantalizing aroma of our Lemon Drizzle strain, a sensually crafted cannabis strain that is sure to tantalize your senses and leave you in a state of blissful euphoria. Bred from a seductive blend of Super Lemon Haze and OG Kush, this sativa-dominant weed strain will transport you to another plane of existence. With a flowering time of 60-65 days, Lemon Drizzle's exquisite buds are bursting with a potent THC percentage of 20-25%, ensuring an unparalleled and satisfying high. The complex terpene profile of this alluring strain is sure to captivate your senses with notes of zesty lemon and a hint of earthy Kush undertones, providing a flavor explosion that you won't forget. This tempting beauty grows to a height of 1m - 1.2m indoors and 1.5m - 2m outdoors. You'll be impressed by the generous indoor yield of 550g/m2, while the outdoor yield of up to 1.5 - 2kg is beyond substantial. Experience the ultimate in relaxation with Lemon Drizzle's outdoor flowering time, which begins in early October, allowing you to bask in the sweet sunshine and savor the heady effects of this tantalizing strain. Succumb to the charms of our Lemon Drizzle strain and discover a world of unadulterated pleasure that will leave you in awe. Is Lemon Drizzle Indica or Sativa? The Lemon Drizzle strain by Barneys Farm is 85% Sativa 15% Indica. What is the best way to store my Lemon Drizzle strain seeds? To properly store Lemon Drizzle seeds, it is recommended to keep them cool and dark in an airtight container ideally in a refrigerator with proper labeling and dating, avoiding freezing. Lemon Drizzle Cannabis Seeds Strain Specifications Type: Feminised Genetics: Super Lemon Haze Strain x OG Kush Strain Photoperiod: Normal Sativa %: 85% Indica %: 15% Flowering Time (days): 60 - 65 Feminised Outdoor Harvest Month Week: 1st-2nd week - October Indoor Height (cm): 100-120cm Indoor Yield (g): up to 550-650 gr/m² Outdoor Height (cm): up to 150-200cm Outdoor Yield (g): up to 1500 gr/plant Taste: Sour, Lemon, Sweet, Citrus Fruits Aroma: Sweet, Sour, Citrus, Pine, Earthy Effect: Energizing, Uplifting, Focused, Motivated PREMIUN CULTIVARS LEMON CAKE Lemon Cake Seeds Lemon Cake strain seeds generate typical Sativa buds known for their heavy trichome covering against a bright green background. Let's look at this great strain and learn about its genetics, growing information, and how to obtain it. Cultivar Profile Terpenes Caryophyllene, Myrcene, Terpinolene Strain Type Sativa Difficulty Moderate Height 30 in – 78 in Yield (oz/ft2) 1 – 3 Flowering Time 9 – 10 weeks Harvest Month October Pack Size 3, 6, 12, 24 Seed Type Feminized Brand Premium Cultivars The History of Lemon Cake Strain Seeds Lemon Cake by the European-based firm Heavyweight Seeds is a strong Sativa-dominant hybrid of Lemon Skunk and Cheese. Lemon Cake seeds are easy to cultivate, especially outdoors, with a 9-10 week flowering cycle, squat shape, and large output. How to Germinate Lemon Cake Strain Seeds There are several ways to sprout your Lemon Cake strain seeds, but they are more complex, inexpensive, and efficient than the paper towel technique. Premium Cultivars suggests this method since it is simple to implement, involves commonly available tools, and ensures germination. Here’s a 9-step process for geminating Lemon Cake seeds: 1. Collect your essential tools: Lemon Cake seeds, dinner plates, distilled or bottled water, tweezers, and a working table. 2. Wet your paper towel sheets and gently squeeze the excess water. 3. Set one of the paper towels on the dinner plate and the other aside for later usage. 4. Pick your Lemon Cake strain seeds with tweezers and spread them on the towel sheet, allowing an inch between them. 5. Cover your cannabis seeds using the second paper towel. Check if the towel is moist, and if not, add water. 6. Lift the towel sheets and ensure no standing water is present. Return the paper towel and your Lemon Cake seeds carefully. 7. Place the setup in warm, dark areas, particularly a cupboard or drawer (20-120 hours). 8. Check to determine whether your Lemon Cake cannabis seeds are sprouting regularly, and if the paper towel remains moist, add water if it does not. 9. Once taproots have emerged from your Lemon Cake seeds, transplant them to your ideal growing medium. Why are Feminized Seeds Better than Regs? Feminized cannabis seeds yield only female plants (or around 99.9% female). Conversely, regular seeds generate a mix of male and female plants. Each seed strain has advantages and cons, with the grower’s specific needs ultimately determining the best. Gardeners mostly use regular cannabis seeds to create their strains, but feminized cannabis seeds are great for farmers looking for a cannabinoid-rich, bud-producing crop. Male cannabis plants generate just pollen sacs and no resinous blooms. This resin contains cannabinoids and terpenes, which are responsible for cannabis’ desirable properties. If male plants pollinate female plants, their blooms will cease releasing resin and begin producing seeds. In short, male cannabis plants do not aid in pursuing massive, powerful harvests. Nonetheless, male plants are critical to the survival of the species as well as the breeding and improvement of cannabis strains. So don’t dismiss them right away! Growing Lemon Cake Strain Seeds The Lemon Cake cannabis strain has grown in popularity due to its ease of cultivation and high yields. It’s a medium-sized plant with long branches that can use some assistance toward the end. It is rather ordinary in terms of temperature and disease resistance since it is not overly prone to unfavorable circumstances or pests. However, if you grow with hydroponics, you won’t have to bother with any of that. Should I Grow Lemon Cake Strain Seeds Indoors or Outdoors? Lemon Cake thrives in both indoor and outdoor environments. The height of this cannabis strain is one factor to consider: it can reach heights of 200cm, requiring either a large grow space or a yard to attain its full potential. Growing Lemon Cake Strain Indoors If you want to cultivate your Lemon Cake seeds (you can buy these finest seeds from Premium Cultivars) inside, you should invest in exhaust fans or carbon air filters due to the room’s strong odor. Also, if conditions are ideal, growers should expect a large yield after 9-10 weeks of flowering. Growing Lemon Cake Strain Seeds Outdoors Outdoor growers can harvest their Lemon Cake buds around the middle of October. How Much Do Lemon Cake Strain Seeds Yield? Lemon Cake can produce roughly 25 ounces per plant outdoors and 21-25 ounces per square meter when grown inside. Although you might be tempted to cut it down right away, waiting as long as possible before harvesting it and curing it correctly to enhance the quality is recommended. How to Get Better Yields from Your Lemon Cake Strain Seeds Harvest rewards are frequently a mirror of cultivation care, so be kind to your Lemon Cake plants, and they will be gentle with you. However, growers should regularly top and prune their Lemon Cake plants to improve airflow and light exposure, thus raising yields. The Best Grow Medium for Lemon Cake Strain Seeds Cultivators can grow Lemon Cake seeds in hydroponic or soil systems. However, experts propose using a precise hydroponic arrangement to achieve optimal production and control its occasionally unpredictable growth rates. The Best Climate for Lemon Cake Strain Seeds Lemon Cake strain enjoys warm, semi-humid areas and is inherently resilient, having excellent mold and disease resistance. Growing outside is only acceptable in warmer climates, as this cannabis strain needs sunlight. Problems to Look Out For When Growing Lemon Cake Strain Seeds When cultivating Lemon Cake cannabis seeds, the primary issue to watch out for is dehydration and overwatering when the crops are little and susceptible. If the leaves of your Lemon Cake plant turn yellow, this indicates that the plant isn’t receiving enough oxygen to the roots. How Difficult is it to Grow Lemon Cake Strain? One of Lemon Cake’s noteworthy characteristics is its simplicity of cultivation. Are Lemon Cake Strain Seeds Suitable for Beginners? Yes, these cannabis stain seeds are great for novice growers, and they will obtain outstanding results. The Best Grow Techniques for Lemon Cake Strain Topping Topping encourages the plant to grow horizontally rather than vertically, but when it does so is determined by soil condition, plant health, light, plant size and age, and growth goals. Topping cannabis reshapes the crop in a way that improves light dispersion significantly. Cutting one tall branch to make multiple new ones at the same height guarantees that lower (buds on lower branches) also receive more light. Another essential reason to top your cannabis crop is for better height management. Logically, the two new branches develop slower than the one branch. Topping a cannabis plant separates its development into several branches. Making the plant grow less in height while putting more energy into expanding broader. This is incredibly convenient for growers, especially for limited indoor plants. Trimming Trimming can be an excellent technique for cannabis producers who have been cultivating a plant for a long time to connect with it while boosting the quality and form of the buds. There are two methods for trimming cannabis plants: wet and dry. Wet trimming, as the name implies, happens when the cannabis plant is still wet. This means you harvest your plants and immediately begin the trimming procedure. Conversely, dry trimming will necessitate drying your crops out for a few days before you start trimming the bud. If you’re cultivating cannabis at home, you’ll almost certainly have to perform all this by hand. For devoted producers, machine trimmers are available, making the operation considerably less labor-intensive. However, due to their high cost, commercial farmers mainly utilize them. Trimming can be time-consuming for many growers, but it’s also thrilling since the growth process is almost complete, and your cannabis is almost ready to have. After you’ve completed trimming, there’s one more step left until you have a great bud: curing. Pruning Pruning is the practice of eliminating extraneous shoots, branches, and leaves from a plant to push it to redirect its limited energy into its present and established development. When left to its own devices, a cannabis plant will frequently grow too large to sustain itself properly with the quantity of energy it generates. If left untreated, this can lead to several minor bud sites as the plant strains to survive while creating bud during flowering. By eliminating unneeded and weak growth, you push the cannabis plant to focus on what remains, resulting in a stronger plant capable of producing a few huge buds rather than many little ones. This frequently leads to higher total yields. Equipment and nutrients Pots: 5gallon Air pots Soil Fox Farm Happy Frog Amended with worm castings, dolomite lime and mychorihiza Recharge ================================= Equipment: AC Infinity CLOUDLAB 844 – Advance Grow Tent 48”x48”x80” CONTROLLER 69 PRO – Grow Tent Controller CLOUDLINE LITE 6 - Inline Fan 6" IONBOARD S44 – LED Grow Light Board 400W CLOUDRAY S6 – Oscillating Circulation Clip Fan Carbon Filter 6”

this first week just to put her into hybrid aero+RDWC devices / watering with 15S on and 3 mins off she looks excited for her new home!!

These girls are starting to look and smell amazing.she has a sweet,earthy,peppery smell and the nuggs are really starting to chunck out nicely.

Esa familia, otra vez aquí enseñando la cuarta semana de crecimiento , estás do sweet dos van con un buen ritmo , y sin carencia alguna. . La humedad anda entre 60/70% la temperatura está entre 23/26 grados, el led es increíble , y como siempre el ph , ya que es de lo más importante,está en 5,8/6,0. . AgroBeta: 0,8 ml x L Growth black line , vía radicular. 0,2 ml x L Tucán , vía radicular. 0,15 ml x L Flash Root , vía radicular. 0,05 ml x L Gold Joker, vía radicular. . Esto es todo fumetillas, muy pronto las veremos echando flores 💨💨💨 buenos humos.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Hey now, I hope everyone is having a great weekend. The ladies had another great week, I got the Durban Nights, Red Hot Cookies, and Sundae Driverr's second toppings completed on day 26, and I got the second toppings done on the Green Crack and Bubble Runtz on day 27. Right now I have 4 mains on each plant, and I will top each one this week, probably in the next 3-4 days which will leave with me 8 mains. So the mainlines will be completed during week 5, and I plan to flip to flower around week 7. I am still seeing a couple holes on the leaves of the Sundae Driver, but I have treated her twice with neem oil and I don't see any new holes since the last application and I can't see any bugs even with magnification. I am still not sure if it was a bug issue or just a genetic thing. Either way I am not too concerned at this point because they all seem to be very healthy. I am still feeding GH nutrients, silica, cal mag, and maxi grow. I will transition to flower nutrients approximately one week after flipping to flower. I have found that it is important to continue feeding plenty of Nitrogen through the stretch. The only way I would transition sooner is if I was running out of vertical space. Still very pleased with the Spectrum X from Medic Grow. I am running her at 69% and the plants seem very happy and healthy. The heat and humidity are finally letting up in my region so it is nice to be able to open some windows and drop the temp outside the grow tent. I hope everyone has a great weekend, Thanks for stopping by, Stay Safe and Blaze On!!! 💪 Website: https://medicgrow.com/ https://growdiaries.com/grower/medicgrowled

10.1.19 day 1 Wow that was fast for the sex sight . 11.1.19 day 2 Fix the lst for even spred . 12.1.19 day 3 The smell is amazing and the big leaf's AF . 14.1.19 day 5 Some purple color apear . 15.1.19 day 6 Did some leafs remove . 16.1.19 day 7 end of the week What a grate week ,starting to get some buds 😇😇😇found that im not giving much water as she needs .

Day 77. Maybe a bit early, but no space and one Smoothie went for a date with bud rot ;))) didn't want to loose that nice top. Very frosty, nice gassy smell surrounded by fruits. Day 82. Second girl is down. Both small as you see, but with few branches will produce seed packaging cover type plant. Maybe second got some purple fade ... First was very nice by structure. Day 85. First went to jar. How lovely it sparkles and smells !!! Solid strain, even being so small by structure. Day 89. Second is in jars too ! Happy Growing !!!

Noch keine Ideen. Es gibt aber einige Gedanken und Erfahrungswerte, die definitiv folgen werden. Einige Dinge haben mich sehr enttäuscht und in zwischen weiß ich auch warum.

Esta planta es una bestia en todos los sentidos.. con minimos cuidados preventivos, es literalmente del ataque de araña que he tenido en el armario, se centro sobre todo en las feminizadas pequeñas (ya controladas) y en dos autos (en proceso de control xD) a esta planta no le he visto ni una hoja mal, luego por bocachancla tendré los cogollos todos llenos de telarañas, pero a priori nada de eso, fuertisima y robusta como ella sola, aguanta las plagas y problemas de maravilla, esta y la purple sunset xxl son las que menos señales de sobre fertilización muestran! De verdad que con esta variedad en especifico, ya no se tanto si este fenotipo o en si la variedad que han logrado estabilizar, pero si fuese una feminizada SABE DIOS QUE LE SACABA SEMILLAS HASTA POR LAS OREJAS! Un pto Titán de planta xD Luego sobre ella, cogollos muy gordos, sin contar la purple sunset que va una semana atrasada con respecto a estas, es la de los cogollos mas gordos, muuuucha resina y un proceso de cultivo aparentemente muuy rapido... Quiero pensar que le queda un mes entero aun para poder hacerle chupar de las hojas al maximo para el lavado de raices... Pero me temo que en 2 semanas y media o así tenga que cortarla. Por si las moscas, entre el domingo y el lunes le hice el ultimo riego de fertilización, ya a partir de hoy o ya mañana por la mañana solo aguita con flush, enzym y calmag si toca.

Her aroma it's just super cheesy,I love the autoflowers from this seedbank they have amazing and original aromas and flavors,she's not gonna ve very productive however I love how she smell it's gonna be a pleasure to taste.

Flowering day 15 & 16 - Orange Sherbert FF from Fast Buds 1 of 4 plants in the tent. The Last 2 Fotos are the complete tent. LED: @future_of_grow (Black Series 600watt + 2x Boost 30Watt UVA + UVB + IR 110cm) Soil: @promixgrowers_global / @promixgrowers_eur / @promixgrowers_unfiltered / @promixmitch / @promix_tory Tent: @phantom.products (150x150x215) Thank you to everyone who follows and supports my work 🙏🏻💚 This means a lot to me and you should know you are a part of it and only with you all this is possible, you are the best community 😎