The plants are now putting all their energy into bud production, and it’s really starting to show!🌱 Both are developing bigger and bigger buds, and the smell is becoming more intense every day. #2 has an insanely large main bud, completely covered in trichomes. The aroma is very hazy, deep, and complex. it’s going to be interesting to see how it develops in the coming weeks. #1, on the other hand, continues to impress with its tropical, sweet, and pineapple-like scent, and its buds are also swelling up beautifully! Everything is going exactly as it should—excited to see how much more they’ll bulk up in the next weeks!💚

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Next week next experiences. Stop training and let the girls freedom. Hope they will appreciate that and boost buds as much as they can.

I now see how fast these plants can grow when giving good conditions to grow in, and unlimited water and nutrients.

Start Flower Week 7

Notes for flower week 8 Watering Days. All feeds with nutes use either a whole ratio, or combination, of "Veg Mix" and "Bloom Mix"concentrates. These are/will be DILUTED in water until a total ppm of add-in is reached using a (Total Dissolved Solids) TDS Meter measured in PPM (parts per million). The "Veg Mix" concentrate will eventually be added-in larger, then smaller, ratios while the "Bloom Mix" concentrate will eventually replace the "Veg Mix" concentrate entirely. The ppm and ratios will be listed when I feed. Veg mix recipe is on week 3. Bloom Mix recipe is on week 5. Day 120/50 (last feed was day 117/47) Tested and Calibrated my ph pens. Fed 3 gallons of purified water (starting with 17ppm) mixed with 699ppm of 100% Bloom Mix Concentrate. Due to this soil showing a possible calcium deficit, I am still using 1ml per gallon add-in to test on all plants using this soil, so I added 3.0ml of CaliMagic (General Hydroponics 1-0-0) to the feed then I ph balanced before feeding. The ph on this feed was balanced to 7.35 (7.4 last feed). I used knitting needles to help both aerate the soil and create new water pathways for the roots. (a practice I am making a new feeding standard for all my plants) I got ~15 cups of runoff (~20 cups last feed). Higher runoff volume was expected with the feed volume increase, might let her go to 4 days and 2.5 next feed. It could be a result of the knitting needle treatment when feeding. Runoff was tested at 6.15ph and 2010ppm (6.10ph and 2070ppm last feed) - again thinking it could be a result of the knitting needles. Top soil tested at 6.65,6.48,6.6,6.81 for an avg of 6.635 (6.372 avg after last feed)- next feed will be 7.0ph again as I'm still liking where the ph is finally going, but rather see it closer to 6.3 or 6.4 top and bottom. I dont see any issues with the feed's data other than the possible calcium deficit and I will continue to monitor runoff ppms as I expected this to be lower with less runoff but have to consider they maybe washing out salt with the knitting needles. Next Feed should be 2.5 gallons of de-chlorinated tap water ph balanced to 7.1 in +4 days (124/54). I expect I will run 700ppm and 2.5ml of CaliMagic (General Hydroponics 1-0-0) again, but expect that to be my last large feed before harvest around Christmas. Day 124/54 (last feed was day 120/50) Tested and Calibrated my ph pens. Fed 3 gallons of de-chlorinated tap (starting with 251ppm) mixed with 709ppm of 100% Bloom Mix Concentrate. Due to this soil showing a possible calcium deficit, I am still using 1ml per gallon add-in to test on all plants using this soil, so I added 3.0ml of CaliMagic (General Hydroponics 1-0-0) and 45ml of Roots Organics HP2 (0-4-0) to the feed, then I ph balanced before feeding. The ph on this feed was balanced to 7.13 (7.35 last feed). I used knitting needles to help both aerate the soil and create new water pathways for the roots. (a practice I am making a new feeding standard for all my plants) I got ~27 cups of runoff (~15 cups last feed). Higher runoff volume was expected with the feed volume increase as well as previous knitting needle aeration. Runoff was tested at 6.21ph and 2100ppm (6.15ph and 2010ppm last feed). Top soil tested at 6.57,6.41,6.3,6.39 for an avg of 6.42 (6.635 avg after last feed)- next feed will be 6.8ph as I'm still liking where the ph is finally going. I dont see any issues with the feed's data other than the possible calcium deficit Next Feed should be 2.5 gallons of de-chlorinated tap water ph balanced to 6.8 in +4 days (128/58). I expect I will run 400ppm and 2.5ml of CaliMagic (General Hydroponics 1-0-0) again, but no more HP2. I expect to start flushing her out with lower nute levels from that next feed point.

Nothing but plain pH adjusted water from now until chop, Any comments appreciated Missed aot of footage on herebut not really ram into any problems.

Got my seed on Friday 22nd last week soaked and germinated in two days I placed in soil 24th first leaves on the 26th and today is the 28th haven't used any nutrients not sure if I will but I made some organic bat poo tea and I'll be feeding her with this .....

So these girls are now 11 weeks old, and they are well through their flowering now. Buds are starting to swell and mature (for Red Devil and Pineapple Express more than Misty Mack), and their smells are pretty powerful. The end is approaching, and as a guideline my plan is to harvest Pineapple Express @ 13 weeks Red Devil @ 14 weeks Misty Mack @ 15.5 weeks So that means Pineapple Express' two week flush begins today.

Day 32, I deleafed a couple days ago once I first seen flowering starting.

21/07 Soweit geht es der kleinen ganz gut. Ich habe sie ordentlich entlaubt, da Ihre Blätter die kleinen Triebe verdeckt haben. Einen Tag später sieht sie zwar etwas Kahl aus, aber sie stellt die kleinen Triebe Richtung Licht. Sie ist jetzt mit 2 Podien und 4 Trieben - 8 Trieben - 16 Trieben getoppt worden. Leider haben sich Trauermücken im Livingsoil eingenistet, diese wurden aber schon mit Nematoden und Gelbtafeln bekämpft und sollten in der nächsten Zeit weniger werden.

She has held up well managing the environment so far she has very few leaf burn but not concerning. N13 is showing signs of bloom the white hairs shaping up to be round like cotton balls with no leaf fading. The N13 has received 600ml of nutrients to get her through to the end of bloom and she stands approximately 57cm

Solid week!! Fed her bloom nutrients on day 50. Responding nicely. I pulled down the main 8 to allow for better light and airflow throughout. Once I did that she really started to fill in again. This also seems to help stop the stretch, or maybe it was just timing and stretch was coming to an end anyways. Either way, glad it did as I am am running out of room to raise the lights and have no more options for setup. Bud sites are all starting to fill in good and fatten up a tiny bit. Looking forward to seeing how these shape up!!!

Se realizó el trasplante a maceta de 5 lts que será la definitiva, ya que como se espigaron tanto necesitaba bajarlas de alguna manera para que no se vieran afectadas por el ventilador en su tallo.

Nice;))))))

Was just using water with the last 2 plants this week. They both plumped up a bit and got more color going on, which is exactly what I was waiting for. Overall, it was a nice grow with only a couple hiccups.

Second week of flower and I defoliated again. There are small bud sites starting to form at the end of week two flower. The apple fritter has fascination which is making the stems grow interestingly with lots of bud sites.