Coming close to her pollination schedule ...This girl is really taking a log time to flower. I cat wait to see those pistils.

Day 78. Girls is down. Dry trim chosen as to most smaller plants. Overall I am happy with Urban Legend brand, only Gorilla will be meh.... ;))) Day 88. Girl went to jars, amazing 62 g of her !!! Top quality all the plant through. We are testing it with my friend's wife and it's pure joy, think after cure I'll keep it pure for myself, no share ;))) Happy Growing !!!

For most crops, a slightly acidic soil pH between 6.0 and 6.8 is ideal because it optimizes nutrient availability. When soil pH rises above 7.0 (alkaline), the concentration of hydrogen ions H+ drops significantly, and they are replaced by calcium, magnesium, or sodium ions on the clay colloid exchange sites. To naturally lower alkaline soil pH, you can add organic matter (carbon-rich materials), which produces weak organic acids as it decomposes. Maintaining this slightly acidic range stimulates a highly active, diverse microbial community; these microbes decompose organic matter and release carbon dioxide CO2, which plants absorb through their roots and leaves to boost photosynthesis and sugar production. Furthermore, the added organic carbon acts like a sponge, drastically improving the soil's water-holding capacity. While soil biological activity does involve cellular electron transport, electrical conductivity (EC) in soil is actually a measure of dissolved mineral salts, not a voltage carried by individual microbes. Soil microorganisms secrete organic acids and chelate metallic and non-metallic minerals, transforming locked-up inorganic compounds into bioavailable organic complexes. Unlike harsh synthetic fertilizers that can dehydrate soil life in high concentrations, these naturally chelated nutrients safely nourish the plant, creating a thriving, self-sustaining ecosystem where plants can efficiently synthesize their own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff.

Nine weeks have passed, as you can see from the photos; despite various nutrient-related issues, the flowers are producing plenty of resin. This week, too, they absorbed a liter and a half of nutrient solution. Stay tuned.

Just cruising along the second week I water when dry and may be weird but I love playing music for them when I’m gone off to work and as you see we do have one that’s about a week ahead that’s GMO Cookies

Really loving how this lady has been growing from seed. Very stable genetics

BPW pheno 1 clone 🥇

Vứt nó ngoài trời vậy k biết baoh ra hoa. Tưới nước kệ cụ nó thôi :)) Cuối ngày 15/09 lst. Làm compost tea để mai tưới. Phun lá vitazyme + rong biển theo định kì tuần 1 lần. Tỉ lệ 1,5ml vitazyme+ 0,5 rong biển 17/09: đêm nay sẽ mưa và tôi quyết định sẽ lên thăm cây 1 chút, sau khi tưới compost hồi sáng thì mọi thứ vẫn ổn. Tôi dùng 1,5 nắp rỉ mật cho 8l nước, 1 chút phân trùn quế và vi sinh vật chứa: tricho và bacilus. Sục khí chỉ trong 14-16h khiến tôi quan ngại về vấn đề cháy lá nhưng không, chúng vẫn ổn và có vẻ đang phát triển tốt hơn bao giờ hết. :D 18/09: sau 1 đêm mưa gió sáng hôm sau trời nắng đẹp, tôi quyết định sẽ uốn chúng xuống thêm chút nữa và chúng hồi phục hẳn vào ngày hôm sau. 19/09: do thấy chúng hồi nhanh nên tôi đấm nốt cây bị lưỡng bên cạnh cho hồi 1 thể :)) 21/09: tỉa lá quạt của cây cái và uốn lại cây lưỡng tính. Từ hôm nay trở đi tôi sẽ xịt nhện đỏ bằng nước trắng rửa lá cây vào mỗi buổi chiều. Hết tuần

The little lady is turning out to be a pretty good plant I wish I had the plants in smaller pots so I could prop the smaller plant up higher and get them closer to the light. The under lights are helping a lot with having shorter and taller plants at the same time

10/9

I'm like 5 days late with this update so I have had to pin videos that I took the same week while I was communicating with TRYHARD so ignore any dialogue that's out of context they aren't diary logs they are simply correspondence between myself And TRY, oh and sorry about my language I'm common as muck me. The pictures are just random pics I took that week as oppose to my usual more organised method but hey ho I'll do a more tidy job next week. The week went swimmingly barring some nitrogen deff on the lowers which I initially put down to the hot weather drying the pots too quickly and causing nute lockout with the salt buildup so I flushed then gave them a nice feed after they dried the pot at which point I noticed the most heavily afflicted by the N deff were also the quickest drinkers and had lower EC on the runoff so I have been giving them a slightly stronger feed than the others and it seems to have solved everything so I'm happy with that. Bud development is nice, frost is nice, terps are through the roof right now..... Zkittlez ones are really stinking of lime and candy bubblegum Punch ones are stinking berry berry nice! Grandpas Crush is smelling kinda hazey right now but I'm hoping the berries comes out of her too. Little else to report really. Thanks for reading One Love 💚 Fire Farmer🔥👨‍🌾

Coming into week 8 strong in flower starting to look real frosty. And bulking up nicely she has very strong sweet profiles coming from her now

Very strong plant 💪 Bravo Inseedious👏

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering.

Problemas de ph en el hidro debido a la inexperiencia. Nutrientes segun tabla.

Plantitas sanitas...

I feel like they could be more light green in color but they are growing really well. Alaskan purple seems to be growing a little lower than the blueberry but I'll bet it's just the genetics. Overall haven't been feeding them water til the soil is dry on top with the ffof, and they seem to respond well to it with no discoloration or burns. Haven't used any nutes and don't plan to til the week of flowering or a week after depending on how the transplant goes. Will add more pics throughout the week, if anyone notices anything I'm missing feel free to spill the beans.