8/14 Everything looked beautiful this morning. Seems like I've got the watering schedule down better. I do have one gmo that looks hungry so I need to increase nutes. At least on that plant. Toasted toffy has little spits that could be water marks, pests or septoria. I don't think it's septoria. In the pastvi lost far more leaves when I had septoria. I've been crazy busy. I'm surprised things are going this well. I need to put up the final supports so I can add to them once I've got big heavy buds. I was really stoked to see everything doing so well. The plant in the 50gallon is the furthest in flower. I'm so grateful to have the ability to grow high quality cannabis for myself amd my wife. There's nothing quite like it. That hash I made turned out great. I think I'll press it today. Supports will be done this week. Saw a few aphids on the plant I cut down. Earwigs aren't here this summer or there would be NO aphids. Plus when I cleaned out the insides this morning I found some dead leaves WAY in the middle by the stalk. They would've eaten that shit if they were here. Birds and other predators seem to be keeping pillars at bay. I'm not seeing the damage and when I do sfind one it's absolutely tiny like a newborn. I'll think about whether I need to spray BT. 8/15 That fucking cancel button always fucks everything out. I was done no I need to start over. Didn't water last night. Found pm on my gmo in the 30. Interior of the plant. Should've defoliated better and earlier. Oh well. I'll treat with k bicarb or plant doctor. I'll have to think about it. Other plants are looking good. Well they all are. I just hate pm. I can't isolate it due to local laws so it is what it is. Nothing I haven't dealt with before. Watered today. The middle gmo in the 30 got 1.5 gallons. The other plants each got a gallon. Including the one in the 10gal and 50 gal. Its supposed to rain but only like .1. I also chose to feed today. All plants got a gallon. I DID NOT WATER THE EVENT HORIZON IN THE MIDDLE AND THE SHERB PIE AS THEY WERE PRAYING AND HEAVY. I need to get these supports up. I'll update as I go. Oh and one thing I remembered is that, I didn't properly sanitize the trellis nets I installed on the plant that has pm (non visible today but still). I harvested the plant that used that bet last year was harvested in two stages. The bottom I let go way later and ended up with a little pm on the stuff I left for hash material and it got some pm. I wonder if that's whete this came from. 8/16 Death in the family this morning. I couldn't decide if I should use organocide plant doctor or not. It's a systemic It's been discontinued and reformulated. It's a systemic fungicide. Instead I mixed two tsp potassium bicarbonate with a little dawn in a half gallon mister. I used gloves and defoliated everything that had pm on it. I checked the plants next to it and luckily it hasn't spread yet....but it will. I feel safer using the k bicarb. I'll do more research and try to find the best way to tackle this. I don't want to get rid of the plant and due to local ordinance I can't isolate it. If I can keep it to this one plantvthat would be fine. I'd just use it for extracts. So glad I didn't use all that netting and put up tjosr supports. I'll need to disinfect them if I decide to use them. We'll see. Plants are coming right along flowering. WENT BACK OVER AND DEFOLIATED A BUNCH OF fan leaves and interior stuff to promote airflow. Still saw pm on that plant u had treated earlier with k bicarb. I can't isolate due to laws and I'm not willing to discard this massive monster cropped plant. So I'm going to treat it. I started by removing everything infected and improving airflow on that plant and all the others. I didn't make it to one event horizon. I plan to treat the infected plant with Organocide Plant Doctor since its what I have on hand and I've had good luck. It's a systemic. After I treat the one plant and see that it didn't hurt the plant I'll use a preventative dosage on the other plants. I've battled wpm several times. This is something I'm very familiar with. What sucks is it's totally my fault it happened due to grower error. This has set back me puttingvup my supports as well. Plants look good woth a haircut. Also the toasted toffy had some leaves removed with spots that looked like septoria. I think nutes havecreally kicked things in gear. Now there are little buds on plants. 8/17 BAGS still seemed heavy so I didn't water. It's been MUCH cooler. It's 63 at 9am. It would normally be 80 by now so maybe they aren't using as much water. I watered the the toasted toffy I missed last round but the Sherb Pie still had weight to it. I also watered the GMO on the far side and the one in the 30 as the seemed a little lighter. I looked in and I couldn't find a SPOT of powder mildew on the plant! I know it will come back but on this 100% rh day there isn't a spot I can find! I'm going to go check on them later today. Do some more defoliation and treat the plants with Plant Doctor to try to mitigate the spread of the P.M. Very suprised the k bicarb worked like that. WENT BACK OVER AROUND 11. I WATERED THE TWO THAT DIDNT GET WATERED LAST TIME. THE EVENT HORIZON AND THE SHERB PIE. IT WAS COLD AND OVERCAST. TEMPS HAVE BEEN MUCH COOLER. SOON AS I WATERED THE SUN CAME OHT AND THE TEMP WENT UP. I WENT THROUGH THE PLANTS I MISSED AND SEFOLIATED LEAVES AND INTERIOR BRANCHES TO INCREASE AIRFLOW. SURPRISED TO STILL SEE NO PM WITH 100% HUMIDITY. I WENT THROUGH EVERY PLANT. ILL NEED TO GO TJROUGH AGAIN BUT TJIS IS MUCH BETTER. THE TOASTED TOFFY THAT MAY HAVE SEPTORIA I WILL TREAT TONOGHT WITH PLANT DOCTOR. I REMOVED ANYTHING LOOKING INFECTED. I LSTed THE BIGGEST BRANCHES WITH CLIPS TO THE BAG AMD TWINE. SO AIRFLOW IS MUCH BETTER. I THEN REMOVED A BU CH OF THE MIDDLE. I COULD TAKE MORE BUT ON OUTDOOR HARVESTS THAT LITTLE STUFF GOES IN EXTRACTS. I PUT A FEW HOURS IN TODAY. IM GOING BACK AND ILL TEST THE PLANT DOCTOR ON THE TOASTED TOFFY. BUT IF THE K BICARB WORKS THIS GOOD ILL JUST KEEP USING THAT. 8/18 It started sprinkling when I left this morning. I did more defoliation on a few different plants. Including the healthiest GMO. It seems like things should be further in flower but it is what it is. I'm not doing clones again. Only reason I did is because I lost my 72 seedlings and depleted my seed supply. I hate treating pm. Lost Coast Plant Therapy I'd really whete its at when it comes to treating pm. I might just order that. My commercial buddy told me that he wouldn't use the plant doctor and not to "spray shot all over my plants". He's probably right. I see something small and try to overcurrent. I dont see any more septoria looking leaves on the toasted toffy since I lsted it and removed damaged leaves. I was going to use the fungicide plant doctor on that and then use it ad a preventative. He's probably right. I've put a lot of work in defoliation and such. It WILL spread but it hasn't yet. I removed what I saw. I was going to hit it again with k bicarb but it said it should be weekly treatments.i hope I'm doing things right. I shouldn't be this worried about pm but I've got am anxiety disorder. I'll fully sterilize (AGAIN) my posts and trellis netting before I instal it. I'll probably go check on them later. It's hard to avoid pm with 100% humidity and 30° temp swings. I've got a few lights so maybe this winter I'll do indoor. I'll try to keep this updated. LOOKING BACK AT PRIOR DIARIES I GUESS IM RIGHT WHERE I SHOULD BE FLOWERING WISE. I JUST HAD A COUPLE REALLY EARLY PHENOS A COUPLE TIMES. 8/19 Defoliated some more stuff amd tried to improve airflow. Humidity is high and it was sprinkling earlier. I think we'll have showers. Not seeing much pm. MAYBE a little in the middle of that middle gmo but it could just be residue. I'll treat it again with potassium bicarbonate soon. If that doesn't work I'll switch up treatments. I've got citric acid amd some other stuff too. I almost ordered lost coast last night but decided I'd wait to try it out. The toasted toffy has SOME spots that look like septoria. It's the second furthest in flower and very indica leaning. It seems to be flowering vigorously so I don't want to fuck with it too much. I could use plant doctor on it and see what happens but I'm going to monitor for a few days after defoliating. WENT BACK OVER AROUND 4 AND SHOOK OFFCTHE PLANTS. HADNT RAINED MUCH. BAGS ARE STILL HEAVY. THE TEN WAS LIGHT AND THE EVENT HORIZON BESIDE IT SEEMED A LITTLE LGHT AS WELL. I THINK IT MIGHT BE ME COMPARING THEM TO OTHER PLANTS THAT ARE SATURATED. SEEING HOW THEY BOTH LOOKED THE BEST IVE EVER SEEN THEM I HELD OFF WATERING. ITS ALSO SPRINKL9NG AMD GOING TO RAIN TONIGHT. ILL REASSESS IN THE MORNING. PLANNED ON USING PLANT DOCTOR ON TOASTED TOFFY BUT DECIDED AGAINST IT PARTIALLY DUE TO THE RAIN. PARTIALLY BECAUSE I PUSSED OUT. I WANTED TO FEED. IVE NOTICED SOME FADE AND PLANTS PUSHING AND TRYING TO GET OVER THE FENXE INTO FLOWER. THE TOASTED TOFFY AND THE UNKNOWN IN THE 50 ATE THE FURTHEST ALONG AND DEVELOPING ROCK HARD BUDS. GMO HAS A MASSIVE STRETCH. THINGS CHANGE DAILY. I WANTED TO GET A GOOD DOSE OF NUTES IN SO AFTER THIS LITTLE BIT OF RAIN WHEN WE GET THAT NICE SUNSHINE MY PLANTS WILL TAKE OFF!! THEY'VE BEEN PROGRESSING FAST DESPITE THE SHITTY WEATHER. 8/20 It's still sprinkling. It SAYS WE got zero rain yesterday but that's just not true. Today is supposed to be light showers with like .02 in 9f rain. I mixed up some water to check the plants. I figured a few would he light. The event horizon on the back SEEMED a little light. So did the one invthe ten. I realized it was just comparing it to the bags that were saturated. Still I ended up giving the event horizon in the back a half gallon and split the other half with the one in the 10 that dries out super fast. It's crazy. The weather just abruptly changed one day and I go from watering twice a day to hardly at all! Everything but the sherb pie and the seedling in the 10gal are vigorously flowering. Upping the nutes was a smart move. The seemed to like it. I'm gonna check later and as soon as I can I'll hit that toasted toffy with plant doctor. That's tied for furthest along in flower. I've done a bunch of research and I think this is the right move. I'll keep this updated. After this small patch of shitty weather we are goingvto get some sun amd these girls will EXPLODE! WENT BACK OVER A FEW TIMES. LAST AT SIX. I DID SOME DEFOLIATION AND PRUNING OF PLANT INTERIORS. ITS ABOUT TIME TO TREAT THE TOASTED TOFFY AGAIN WITH PLANT DOCTOR. I CAN SEE SOME SEPTORIA SPOTS. I TREATED THE EVENT HORIZON THIS MORNING. IT GOT A FEW HOURS BEFORE A LITTPE RAIN WND THEN SUNNY AND 80. I USED BETWEEN A QUARTER AND HALF GALLON ON THE INE PLANT. I MAY NOT HAVE USED ENOUGH OF THE MIXED UP SOLUTION ONVTHE TOASTED TOFFY. IT HAD BEEN WORKING AWESOME AND NOW THAT ITS TIME TO REAPPLY I NOTICE A FEW LEAVES THAT LOOK INFECTED. OVER THE NEXT WEEK ILL BE MONITORING THE RESPONS FROM THE PLANT DOCTOR. I'M CONSIDERING APPLYING PLANT DOCTOR TO THE REST OF THE GARDEN. I THIBJ THE K BICARB HAS BEEN DOING GOOD KEEPING THE PM DOWN ON THE MIDDLE GMO. I HATE THAT I HAVE TO FIGHT DISEASES. IM NOT DOING CLONES AGAIN. AND IM GOING TO BE MUCH CLEANER. THE SHERB PIE LOOKS A LITTLE OVERWATERED AND HAS SOME YELLOW LEAVES BUT MANY HAVE TURNED PURPLE AND OTHER FALL COLORS. THE PLANTS ARE AGGRESSIVELY FLOWERING AND TEMPS ARE CHANGING. STILL IN EARLY FLOWER. IVE GOT A GOOD FEELING. IVE DEALT WITH MUCH WORSE AND CAME OUT GOOD.

I topped this plant and did some LST. I accidentally broke a branch doing this but it shouldn’t have much effect on the plant at the end because it was done so early in veg. Shaping up to be a beauty

Amazing experience with the Mix Pack, I will try it again next summer for sure. Love the variety.

Plants took a tumble while I was at work and came home to everything laying on the ground like a robbery. I also learned that my plants wasn't burning but in fact when the tree hit the deck the 33C heat and the roof torched the leaves. The vertical growth is slowing as it only grew 4" in the week so far, next summer hopefully I will use 20 gallons and not 12. Just solid knowledge for next year as I wanted all 3 tree to hit around 6ft after the stretch and all the training. Lost a few main branches on this plant so idk how realistic 1.5lbs is at this point

well this little girl has just started pre flower so she should be in full flower by this time next week. Hopefully she gets some fast growth before the flowering begins.

Week 9 Queens Tea Party ************Sponsored Grow*************** Hello friends and followers to my weekly Titan F1 update: 3/31-4/6 This week imy ladies are getting aa ready for the big tea party. Their dresses are frocked with sparles. They mostly stopped growing but rather buds are getting some new white pistils. I'm watering only this week. Next week will be water only. Bud stacking continues giving more height. Many pistols have turned orange or brown. While small, the buds on both plants are dense. They don’t have much smell or any particular aroma that I can detect. Thanks for the likes and comments, I appreciate all the plant love💚. Have fun & love what you grow 💚 Sending love and light 💫 💫Natrona 💫 **************Sponsored Grow*************** Royal Queen Seeds is the first to off genuine F1 cannabis seeds. F1 hybrids are the future of cannabis genetics, offering unrivalled stability, vigor, and yields. They have eight (8) F1 hybrid strains including a CBD. Unlike regular hybrids, which can be created by crossing virtually any two cannabis plants, F1 hybrids are made by crossing two pure (also known as "inbred") genetic lines. The resulting seedlings not only grow bigger and stronger, but also maintain stable growth traits that result in a uniform crop. In Rocket to the moon, I grew one Apollo F1, (please refer to my diary for full details). Huge base stalk, strong stems, remained under 3’, and yielded over 4 ounces. They have come down in price since their introduction. I was so impressed by the yield and growth of Apollo, I strongly urge you to look at the site for a variety that has what you are looking for. I would like to express my sincere thanks to @James at @Royal Queen Seeds for giving me this opportunity to grow their quality seeds. It was a hard decision to select the strain to grow; I’m excited to grow Titan F1. ==================================== Royal Queen Seeds Https://www.royalqueenseeds.com use Discount Code use **GROWERS20** for 20% discount Titan F1 stands out as one of the most potent options in F1 hybrids. Thanks to her genetic lineage, she produces sky-high levels of THC and boatloads of delicious terpenes. Plus, plants reach modest heights while churning out impressive yields. Talented breeders created this F1 by crossing inbred lines that share a heritage with Blue Dream, Sugar Magnolia, and Amnesia. Effects, Flavors, and Aromas of Titan F1: Powerful Effects and Sugar-Citrus Notes Titan F1 will treat your olfactory system throughout the flowering phase, and beyond. This auto flowering variety unleashes a powerful terpene profile consisting mostly of myrcene, farnesene, ocimene, pinene, bisabolol, and limonene. Combined, these aromatic compounds offer notes of fruit, candy, and lemongrass. With the highest THC concentration within our F1 hybrid range, Titan F1 exerts a powerful and fast-acting effect that melts the muscles and clears the mind. Perfect for enjoying after a long day at work. Growing Titan F1: Stealthy, High-Yielding Plants With an average height of 65cm, Titan F1 can grow just about anywhere and maintain a low profile. This bushy plant features an indica morphology, a huge trichome count, and develops into a mature specimen in around 73 days from germination. Gear up for a uniform, consistent crop that will thrive in practically any environment. Titan F1 data sheet Variety: F1 Hybrid auto Genetic Background: Blue Dream x Sugar Magnolia x Amnesia THC: Ultra-high Yield: XXL Height:55 - 75 cm Flowering time:40 - 45 days Harvest:70 - 75 days after germination Major terpenes: Caryophyllene, Farnesene, Myrcene, Ocimene Effect: Calming, Focus, Physically Relaxing, Uplifting Flavor: Candy, Diesel, Herbal, Pine, Vanilla Climate: Short Summers ================================= Equipment: AC Infinity CLOUDLAB 844 – Advance Grow Tent 48”x48”x80” CONTROLLER 69 PRO – Grow Tent Controller CLOUDLINE LITE 6 - Inline Fan 6" IONBOARD S44 – LED Grow Light Board 400W CLOUDRAY S6 – Oscillating Circulation Clip Fan Carbon Filter 6” Pots: 2 liter wire basket tea pot 3 gallon Air pots Soil Fox Farm Happy Frog Amended with worm castings, dolomite lime and mychorihiza Seeds provided by Royal Queen Seeds Https://www.royalqueenseeds.com use Discount Code use **GROWERS20** for 20% discount Nutrients: Total Plant Solution TPS1 Canopy Signa

Week 14 - 06/14 - 06/20 Light - 400 W HPS & 265 W LED Temperature - 76 +/-3 Humidity - 40 +/-5 D43 Flower - Watered the ladies, they are swelling up nicely. While I am happy to stare at these beauties daily, this is definitely the boring part of growing, not much to report besides beautiful bud growth. They have also started to produce a strong scent, to the point where I will smell the entire house up if the garage door is open. Loving the way this grow is turning out. D46 Flower - Water with nutrients and added some blackstrap molasses to the mix. I took a risk today and tested out some late flower defoliation, I took the large fan leaves off two of the clones and front Hulkberry and Royal Gorilla Scrog. I want to see the difference in growth with late flower defoliation. D47 Flower - Moved the LED light a little further away, I had noticed some light burn on one of the clones. Decided to build a drying box since I am pretty sure I will have to harvest these strains separately. Added some pics, its a quick build out of some stuff I had laying around the house. Only had to buy a $10 filter that I could cut up and $20 silica gel packs. I am running the exhaust air from the tent into the dry box that will filter through the $10 charcoal filter I cut up and doubled up on the filtration. I'm going to add refreshable silica gel packs in the box to help fight humidity. Hopefully, it works.

The two mother plants are being put into flower this weekend and one of their many clones will be selected as the new mother assuming I keep Zkittles in my collection, she’s a bit unruly indoors.

Plant has shown slow but healthy growth since its arrival, LST continues and I've managed to keep the plant at the same height it was last week but now at a horizontal angle. I did up the nutes for one feed to a slightly under recommended dose but in the days following I noticed the plant looking a little 'droopy' and since she has been with me she hasnt been drinking very well so I opted to flush her for a feed, since then she has seemed very happy :) whilst drinking much better (possible nute lock was imminent). Now back down to half doseages with the exception of CalMg (to help after flush) but will be increasing them in the following days. As of next week I will be transferring her and another plant my partner is nurturing into single bucket DWC set ups. Fingers crossed I will see some hearty results for making the crossover to hydro.

Pineapple express is really going along nicely into week 8 for her got the white widow at the back left week 7 and grape ape back right week 8 you can see the difference In the colours of the leaves and how they have grown the pineapple is just a monster nice wide and fat would be good for a scrog net white widow and grape ape are really lanky but all 3 have many bud sites and I have had no problems at all with these girls so much fun and really easy to grow I surprised myself but I think alot need ti go down to the genetics and who you get seeds off use code ZAMMIGROW2024 for 20% off best thing I ever

Just fed AgroThrive Organic Fertilizer - Fruiting & Flowering on Chemdawg on day 88, straight water on the rest PPMs are still high at 2914 average with acid run offs of 5 but plants look pretty good the CD looked hungry so fed it the PPM on it prior was the lowest of the 6. I ordered a High CFM Kit so I can get some of my space back, as is my 5x5 is more of a 4x4 & I could use the space right now.

TUESDAY 7/23: The FIM'ing seems to have only doubled her main, but that's okay. She's going from Hawaii conditions to Arizona conditions every day...8-10 hour of 72f/70+%RH to 12-14 hours of 96f/35%RH and taking it like a champ. I foliar fed her after taking her outside today and started training her a little bit. Gonna try to get those tiny lower branches to think they have a shot at "primary cola" status. I had no wire with me, so I just used a pliable length of dead-ish vine that was lying on the ground. I'll use some wire and binder clips when I can find it.. Evening...same day: She broke the vine I was using to hold her down, so I dug around and found some clips and wire. WEDNESDAY: She was just about 4 inches beneath 120w of LED last night with tons of blue spectra, 69f temperature and 80% RH. Those lower branches gained another half inch each and the top colas have turned to face the sun. I foliar fed her and gave her a little douche of Bactrex this morning when I took her outside. Had a cool front come through today, so the high will just be 87f and it's dropping to the mid to low 60's tonight..hooray! They're forecasting another day or two like this before the return to "oven-like" conditions.👍 I carried my pole saw down to the site at daybreak and removed a few smaller branches above them and to the West. I'll see if it is allowing some evening sun to reach her when I go down there to fetch her home to the LED's for the evening. THURSDAY: I was somewhat successful with getting a little bit more direct sunlight to her while outside during the day..about another 20-25 extra minutes. She got a sip of compost tea today with a little kelp me kelp you and big bloom. I tweaked her indoor domain a bit..she's now got 2 x 12w Miracle LED veg bulbs (cool white with 475nm peak), 1 x 75w cool white/460nm 225LED panel, 1 x 40w Sansi daylight grow bulb, 1 x 50w 460nm/cool white flood, and 1 x 18w 18" pinkish grow light bar. None of the lights are more than 5 inches from her, so she's incredibly well lit. I'm estimating that it's about 5,000 micromoles an hour, but I'm keeping the temp at her canopy under 80f with 90+% RH. It's not direct sunlight, but I think she's happy. I'm still undecided as to whether I'll keep her on a 24/0 schedule or if I'll cut it back to 20/4 when she starts flowering. Since I can provide her with a cool and humid environment for a third of the day, I'm leaning towards running 24/0 the whole grow. FRIDAY: I accidentally burnt her up a little bit today..one of the overhead LED's slipped and was about an inch from her top leaves...oops..I put her outside and misted her with some boom boom spray and kelp me kelp you.. SATURDAY: She's got a few crispy leaves, but she perked up and is growing again...whew...😓 SUNDAY: I tweaked her indoor environment today. She's now got a 120w quantum board (3500k) overhead, a 24w panel with 225 x 660nm red LEDs, the 40w Sansi light, one 9w 2' bar grow light, and one 12w Miracle LED blue.

Beginning of week 8 and seems like a long way to go. Most of the hairs still white. Hopefully the buds will fill in more! As right now I’m planning to take it 10+ weeks. This week I will lower the CO2 slowly 50 PPM every day until I will reach 800PPM. Also I will lower the light intensity by 2% every day. This week I lowered the day temp to 79 degrees and next week I’m playing to lower it every further to 76 degrees Fahrenheit. Water temp is at 68 degrees and probably from week 9 I will lower it to 66. Beginning of week 8 TDS is at 550PPM. I sent adding the Late bloom enhancer from Current Culture! End of week 8 : lowered the TDS to 470ppm , she seems that it not eating so much nutrients anymore. She still drinking 3 gallons of water every single day.

4/14/25 This is a continuation of my other prom night diary. One of the phenos is expressing autoflower traits and is now in flower. This one i plan to grow out a little bit longer so i decided to make a separate diary so there is less confusion.

Yellow butterfly came to see me the other day; that was nice. Starting to show signs of stress on the odd leaf, localized isolated blips, blemishes, who said growing up was going to be easy! Smaller leaves have less surface area for stomata to occupy, so the stomata are packed more densely to maintain adequate gas exchange. Smaller leaves might have higher stomatal density to compensate for their smaller size, potentially maximizing carbon uptake and minimizing water loss. Environmental conditions like light intensity and water availability can influence stomatal density, and these factors can affect leaf size as well. Leaf development involves cell division and expansion, and stomatal differentiation is sensitive to these processes. In essence, the smaller leaf size can lead to a higher stomatal density due to the constraints of available space and the need to optimize gas exchange for photosynthesis and transpiration. In the long term, UV-B radiation can lead to more complex changes in stomatal morphology, including effects on both stomatal density and size, potentially impacting carbon sequestration and water use. In essence, UV-B can be a double-edged sword for stomata: It can induce stomatal closure and potentially reduce stomatal size, but it may also trigger an increase in stomatal density as a compensatory mechanism. It is generally more efficient for gas exchange to have smaller leaves with a higher stomatal density, rather than large leaves with lower stomatal density. This is because smaller stomata can facilitate faster gas exchange due to shorter diffusion pathways, even though they may have the same total pore area as fewer, larger stomata. Leaf size tends to decrease in colder climates to reduce heat loss, while larger leaves are more common in warmer, humid environments. Plants in arid regions often develop smaller leaves with a thicker cuticle and/or hairs to minimize water loss through transpiration. Conversely, plants in wet environments may have larger leaves and drip tips to facilitate water runoff. Leaf size and shape can vary based on light availability. For example, leaves in shaded areas may be larger and thinner to maximize light absorption. Leaf mass per area (LMA) can be higher in stressful environments with limited nutrients, indicating a greater investment in structural components for protection and critical resource conservation. Wind speed, humidity, and soil conditions can also influence leaf morphology, leading to variations in leaf shape, size, and surface characteristics. Small leaves: Reduce water loss in arid or cold climates. Environmental conditions significantly affect gene expression in plants. Plants are sessile organisms, meaning they cannot move to escape unfavorable conditions, so they rely on gene expression to adapt to their surroundings. Environmental factors like light, temperature, water, and nutrient availability can trigger changes in gene expression, allowing plants to respond to and survive in diverse environments. Depending on the environment a young seedling encounters, the developmental program following seed germination could be skotomorphogenesis in the dark or photomorphogenesis in the light. Light signals are interpreted by a repertoire of photoreceptors followed by sophisticated gene expression networks, eventually resulting in developmental changes. The expression and functions of photoreceptors and key signaling molecules are highly coordinated and regulated at multiple levels of the central dogma in molecular biology. Light activates gene expression through the actions of positive transcriptional regulators and the relaxation of chromatin by histone acetylation. Small regulatory RNAs help attenuate the expression of light-responsive genes. Alternative splicing, protein phosphorylation/dephosphorylation, the formation of diverse transcriptional complexes, and selective protein degradation all contribute to proteome diversity and change the functions of individual proteins. Photomorphogenesis, the light-driven developmental changes in plants, significantly impacts gene expression. It involves a cascade of events where light signals, perceived by photoreceptors, trigger changes in gene expression patterns, ultimately leading to the development of a plant in response to its light environment. Genes are expressed, not dictated! While having the potential to encode proteins, genes are not automatically and constantly active. Instead, their expression (the process of turning them into proteins) is carefully regulated by the cell, responding to internal and external signals. This means that genes can be "turned on" or "turned off," and the level of expression can be adjusted, depending on the cell's needs and the surrounding environment. In plants, genes are not simply "on" or "off" but rather their expression is carefully regulated based on various factors, including the cell type, developmental stage, and environmental conditions. This means that while all cells in a plant contain the same genetic information (the same genes), different cells will express different subsets of those genes at different times. This regulation is crucial for the proper functioning and development of the plant. When a green plant is exposed to red light, much of the red light is absorbed, but some is also reflected back. The reflected red light, along with any blue light reflected from other parts of the plant, can be perceived by our eyes as purple. Carotenoids absorb light in blue-green region of the visible spectrum, complementing chlorophyll's absorption in the red region. They safeguard the photosynthetic machinery from excessive light by activating singlet oxygen, an oxidant formed during photosynthesis. Carotenoids also quench triplet chlorophyll, which can negatively affect photosynthesis, and scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS) that can damage cellular proteins. Additionally, carotenoid derivatives signal plant development and responses to environmental cues. They serve as precursors for the biosynthesis of phytohormones such as abscisic acid () and strigolactones (SLs). These pigments are responsible for the orange, red, and yellow hues of fruits and vegetables, while acting as free scavengers to protect plants during photosynthesis. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is an electronically excited state of molecular oxygen (O₂). Singlet oxygen is produced as a byproduct during photosynthesis, primarily within the photosystem II (PSII) reaction center and light-harvesting antenna complex. This occurs when excess energy from excited chlorophyll molecules is transferred to molecular oxygen. While singlet oxygen can cause oxidative damage, plants have mechanisms to manage its production and mitigate its harmful effects. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is considered a reactive oxygen species (ROS). It's a form of oxygen with higher energy and reactivity compared to the more common triplet oxygen found in its ground state. Singlet oxygen is generated both in biological systems, such as during photosynthesis in plants, and in cellular processes, and through chemical and photochemical reactions. While singlet oxygen is a ROS, it's important to note that it differs from other ROS like superoxide (O₂⁻), hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂), and hydroxyl radicals (OH) in its formation, reactivity, and specific biological roles. Non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) protects plants from damage caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) by dissipating excess light energy as heat. This process reduces the overexcitation of photosynthetic pigments, which can lead to the production of ROS, thus mitigating the potential for photodamage. Zeaxanthin, a carotenoid pigment, plays a crucial role in photoprotection in plants by both enhancing non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS). In high-light conditions, zeaxanthin is synthesized from violaxanthin through the xanthophyll cycle, and this zeaxanthin then facilitates heat dissipation of excess light energy (NPQ) and quenches harmful ROS. The Issue of Singlet Oxygen!! ROS Formation: Blue light, with its higher energy photons, can promote the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), including singlet oxygen, within the plant. Potential Damage: High levels of ROS can damage cellular components, including proteins, lipids, and DNA, potentially impacting plant health and productivity. Balancing Act: A balanced spectrum of light, including both blue and red light, is crucial for mitigating the harmful effects of excessive blue light and promoting optimal plant growth and stress tolerance. The Importance of Red Light: Red light (especially far-red) can help to mitigate the negative effects of excessive blue light by: Balancing the Photoreceptor Response: Red light can influence the activity of photoreceptors like phytochrome, which are involved in regulating plant responses to different light wavelengths. Enhancing Antioxidant Production: Red and blue light can stimulate the production of antioxidants, which help to neutralize ROS and protect the plant from oxidative damage. Optimizing Photosynthesis: Red light is efficiently used in photosynthesis, and its combination with blue light can lead to increased photosynthetic efficiency and biomass production. In controlled environments like greenhouses and vertical farms, optimizing the ratio of blue and red light is a key strategy for promoting healthy plant growth and yield. Understanding the interplay between blue light signaling, ROS production, and antioxidant defense mechanisms can inform breeding programs and biotechnological interventions aimed at improving plant stress resistance. In summary, while blue light is essential for plant development and photosynthesis, it's crucial to balance it with other light wavelengths, particularly red light, to prevent excessive ROS formation and promote overall plant health. Oxidative damage in plants occurs when there's an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the plant's ability to neutralize them, leading to cellular damage. This imbalance, known as oxidative stress, can result from various environmental stressors, affecting plant growth, development, and overall productivity. Causes of Oxidative Damage: Abiotic stresses: These include extreme temperatures (heat and cold), drought, salinity, heavy metal toxicity, and excessive light. Biotic stresses: Pathogen attacks and insect infestations can also trigger oxidative stress. Metabolic processes: Normal cellular activities, particularly in chloroplasts, mitochondria, and peroxisomes, can generate ROS as byproducts. Certain chlorophyll biosynthesis intermediates can produce singlet oxygen (1O2), a potent ROS, leading to oxidative damage. ROS can damage lipids (lipid peroxidation), proteins, carbohydrates, and nucleic acids (DNA). Oxidative stress can compromise the integrity of cell membranes, affecting their function and permeability. Oxidative damage can interfere with essential cellular functions, including photosynthesis, respiration, and signal transduction. In severe cases, oxidative stress can trigger programmed cell death (apoptosis). Oxidative damage can lead to stunted growth, reduced biomass, and lower crop yields. Plants have evolved intricate antioxidant defense systems to counteract oxidative stress. These include: Enzymes like superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), and various peroxidases scavenge ROS and neutralize their damaging effects. Antioxidant molecules like glutathione, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), C60 fullerene, and carotenoids directly neutralize ROS. Developing plant varieties with gene expression focused on enhanced antioxidant capacity and stress tolerance is crucial. Optimizing irrigation, fertilization, and other management practices can help minimize stress and oxidative damage. Applying antioxidant compounds or elicitors can help plants cope with oxidative stress. Introducing genes for enhanced antioxidant enzymes or stress-related proteins over generations. Phytohormones, also known as plant hormones, are a group of naturally occurring organic compounds that regulate plant growth, development, and various physiological processes. The five major classes of phytohormones are: auxins, gibberellins, cytokinins, ethylene, and abscisic acid. In addition to these, other phytohormones like brassinosteroids, jasmonates, and salicylates also play significant roles. Here's a breakdown of the key phytohormones: Auxins: Primarily involved in cell elongation, root initiation, and apical dominance. Gibberellins: Promote stem elongation, seed germination, and flowering. Cytokinins: Stimulate cell division and differentiation, and delay leaf senescence. Ethylene: Regulates fruit ripening, leaf abscission, and senescence. Abscisic acid (ABA): Plays a role in seed dormancy, stomatal closure, and stress responses. Brassinosteroids: Involved in cell elongation, division, and stress responses. Jasmonates: Regulate plant defense against pathogens and herbivores, as well as other processes. Salicylic acid: Plays a role in plant defense against pathogens. 1. Red and Far-Red Light (Phytochromes): Red light: Primarily activates the phytochrome system, converting it to its active form (Pfr), which promotes processes like stem elongation and flowering. Far-red light: Inhibits the phytochrome system by converting the active Pfr form back to the inactive Pr form. This can trigger shade avoidance responses and inhibit germination. Phytohormones: Red and far-red light regulate phytohormones like auxin and gibberellins, which are involved in stem elongation and other growth processes. 2. Blue Light (Cryptochromes and Phototropins): Blue light: Activates cryptochromes and phototropins, which are involved in various processes like stomatal opening, seedling de-etiolation, and phototropism (growth towards light). Phytohormones: Blue light affects auxin levels, influencing stem growth, and also impacts other phytohormones involved in these processes. Example: Blue light can promote vegetative growth and can interact with red light to promote flowering. 3. UV-B Light (UV-B Receptors): UV-B light: Perceived by UVR8 receptors, it can affect plant growth and development and has roles in stress responses, like UV protection. Phytohormones: UV-B light can influence phytohormones involved in stress responses, potentially affecting growth and development. 4. Other Colors: Green light: Plants are generally less sensitive to green light, as chlorophyll reflects it. Other wavelengths: While less studied, other wavelengths can also influence plant growth and development through interactions with different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Key Points: Cross-Signaling: Plants often experience a mix of light wavelengths, leading to complex interactions between different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Species Variability: The precise effects of light color on phytohormones can vary between different plant species. Hormonal Interactions: Phytohormones don't act in isolation; their interactions and interplay with other phytohormones and environmental signals are critical for plant responses. The spectral ratio of light (the composition of different colors of light) significantly influences a plant's hormonal balance. Different wavelengths of light are perceived by specific photoreceptors in plants, which in turn regulate the production and activity of various plant hormones (phytohormones). These hormones then control a wide range of developmental processes.