This week was a quiet week to avoid disturbing the beginning of flowering. I think the deficiencies are under control and there's no worsening to fear. Nevertheless, I will need to remain vigilant. The plant is starting to smell.

Permanent marker has shown some really nice growth this week. The leaves are a nice, healthy green colour and overall. I'm very pleased with how she's getting on. Here is what I did this week. 20.8.25: I watered with 1.5ltrs of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.0 with; 💜 2ml Trace PH: 6.0 PPM: 340 Thanks for stopping by this week and hanging out in the comments 😁💚✌️🌱🤞

Last week of flo >> harvest the 29th october This strain is highly resistant of mistakes.

Green light is radiation with wavelengths between 520 and 560 nm and it affects photosynthesis, plant height, and flowering. Plants reflect green light and this is why they appear green to our eyes. As a result, some growers think that plants don’t use green wavelengths, but they actually do! In fact, only around 5 – 10% of green light is reflected from leaves and the rest (90 – 95 %) is absorbed or transmitted to lower leaves [1]. Green wavelengths get used in photosynthesis. Chlorophyll pigments absorb small amounts of green wavelengths. Light that doesn’t get absorbed is transmitted to leaves that are shaded out from direct light. This means that leaves at the bottom of the canopy get more green light than leaves at the top. A high proportion of green wavelengths compared to other colors tells lower leaves that they are being shaded out, so they are able to react accordingly. Lower leaves may react by opening or closing their stomata or growing longer stems that help the leaves reach brighter light [1, 2, 3]. When it comes to growing cannabis, many cultivators are interested in the quality of light used for the flowering stage. In many plants, flowering is regulated by two main photoreceptors: cryptochrome and phytochrome. Both photoreceptors primarily respond to blue light but can also respond to green, although to a lesser extent. Green can accelerate the start of flowering in several species (although cannabis has yet to be tested) [1, 4, 5]. However, once flowering has begun, it’s important to provide plants with a “full spectrum” light that has high amounts of blue and red light, and moderate amounts of green, in order for photosynthesis to be optimized. Green light mediates seed germination in some species. Seeds use green wavelengths to decide whether the environment is good for germination. Shade environments are enriched in green relative to red and blue light, so a plant can tell if it is shady or sunny. A seed that senses a shaded environment may stay dormant to avoid poor growing conditions [1]. Some examples of plant species where researchers have documented this response are: ryegrass (a grass that grows in tufts) and Chondrilla (a plant related to dandelion) [1, 6]. Although green wavelengths generally tell plants NOT to germinate, there are some exceptions! Surprisingly, green wavelengths can stimulate seed germination in some species like Aeschynomene, Tephrosia, Solidago, Cyrtopodium, and Atriplex [1, 6, 7]. Of course, light is not the only factor affecting seed germination – it’s a combination of many factors, such as soil moisture, soil type, temperature, photoperiod, and light quality. When combined with red and blue light, green can really enhance plant growth [1, 8]. However, too much green light (more than 50% of the total light) can actually reduce plant growth [8]. Based on the most current research, the ideal ratio of green, red, and blue light is thought to be around 1:2:1 for green:blue:red [9]. When choosing a horticultural light, choose one that has high amounts of blue and red light and moderate amounts of green and other colors of light. Not many studies can be found about the effect of green light on cannabis growth or metabolism. However, if one reads carefully, there are clues and data available even from the very early papers. Mahlberg and Hemphill (1983) used colored filters in their study to alter the sunlight spectrum and study green light among others. They concluded that the green filter, which makes the environment green by cutting other wavelengths out, reduced the THC concentration significantly compared to the daylight control treatment. It has been demonstrated that green color can reduce secondary metabolite activity with other species as well. For example, the addition of green to a light spectrum decreases anthocyanin concentration in lettuce (Zhang and Folta 2012). If green light only reverses the biosynthesis of some secondary metabolites, then why put green light into a growth spectrum at all? Well, there are a couple of good reasons. One is that green penetrates leaf layers effectively. Conversely red and blue light is almost completely absorbed by the first leaf layer. Green travels through the first, second, and even third layers effectively (Figure 2). Lower leaf layers can utilize green light in photosynthesis and therefore produce yields as well. Even though a green light-specific photoreceptor has not yet been found, it is known that green light has effects independent from the cryptochrome but then again, also cryptochrome-dependent ones, just like blue light. It is known that green light in low light intensity conditions can enhance far red stimulating secondary metabolite production in microgreens and then again, counteracts the production of these compounds in high-intensity light conditions (Kim et al. 2004). In many cases, green light promoted physiological changes in plants that are opposite to the actions of blue light. In the study by Kim et al. blue light-induced anthocyanin accumulation was inhibited by green light. In another study it has been found that blue light promotes stomatal opening whereas green light promotes stomatal closure (Frechilla et al. 2000). Blue light inhibits the early stem elongation in the seedling stage whereas green light promotes it (Folta 2004). Also, blue light results in flowering induction, and green light inhibits it (Banerjee et al., 2007). As you can see, green light works very closely with blue light, and therefore not only the amount of these two wavelengths separately is important but also the ratio (Blue: Green) between these two in the designed spectrum. Furthermore, green light has been found to affect the elongation of petioles and upward leaf reorientation with the model plant Arabidopsis thaliana both of which are a sign of shade avoidance symptoms (Zhang et al. 2011) and also gene expression in the same plant (Dhingra et al. 2006). As mentioned before, green light produces shade avoidance symptoms which are quite intuitive if you consider the natural conditions where the plants grow. Not all the green light is reflected from the highest canopy leaves in nature but a lot of it (50-90%) has been estimated to penetrate the upper leaves at the plant level ((Terashima et al., 2009; Nishio, 2000). For the plant growing in the understory of the forest green light is a signal for the plant of being in the shade of a bigger plant. Then again, the plants growing under unobstructed sunlight can take advantage of the green photons that can more easily penetrate the upper leaves than the red and blue photons. From the photosynthetic pigments in higher plants, chlorophyll is crucial for plant growth. Dissolved chlorophyll and absorb maximally in the red (λ600–700 nm) and blue (λ400–500 nm) regions of the spectrum and not as easily in the green (λ500–600 nm) regions. Up to 80% of all green light is thought to be transmitted through the chloroplast (Terashima et al., 2009) and this allows more green photons to pass deeper into the leaf mesophyll layer than red and blue photons. When the green light is scattered in the vertical leaf profile its journey is lengthened and therefore photons have a higher chance of hitting and being absorbed by chloroplasts on their passage through the leaf to the lower leaves of the plant. Photons of PPFD (photosynthetic photon flux density) are captured by chlorophyll causing an excitation of an electron to enter a higher energy state in which the energy is immediately passed on to the neighboring chlorophyll molecule by resonance transfer or released to the electron transport chain (PSII and PSI). Despite the low extinction coefficient of chlorophyll in the green 500–600 nm region it needs to be noted that the absorbance can be significant if the pigment (chlorophyll) concentration in the leaf is high enough. The research available clearly shows that plants use green wavelengths to promote higher biomass and yield (photosynthetic activity), and that it is a crucial signal for long-term developmental and short-term dynamic acclimation (Blue:Green ratio) to the environment. It should not be dismissed but studied more because it brings more opportunities to control plant gene expression and physiology in plant production. REFERENCES Banerjee R., Schleicher E., Meier S. Viana R. M., Pokorny R., Ahmad M., Bittl R., Batschauer. 2007. The signaling state of Arabidopsis cryptochrome 2 contains flavin semiquinone. The Journal of Biological Chemistry 282, 14916–14922. Dhingra, A., Bies, D. H., Lehner, K. R., and Folta, K. M. 2006. Green light adjusts the plastic transcriptome during early photomorphogenic development. Plant Physiol. 142, 1256-1266. Folta, K. M. 2004. Green light stimulates early stem elongation, antagonizing light-mediated growth inhibition. Plant Physiol. 135, 1407-1416. Frechilla, S., Talbott, L. D., Bogomolmi, R. A., and Zeiger, E. 2000. Reversal of blue light -stimulated stomatal opening by green light. Plant Cell Physiol. 41, 171-176. Kim, H.H., Goins, G. D., Wheeler, R. M., and Sager, J. C. 2004.Green-light supplementation for enhanced lettuce growth under red- and blue-light emitting diodes. HortScience 39, 1617-1622. Nishio, J.N. 2000. Why are higher plants green? Evolution of the higher plant photosynthetic pigment complement. Plant Cell and Environment 23, 539–548. Terashima I., Fujita T., Inoue T., Chow W.S., Oguchi R. 2009. Green light drives leaf photosynthesis more efficiently than red light in strong white light: revisiting the enigmatic question of why leaves are green. Plant & Cell Physiology 50, 684–697. Zhang, T., Maruhnich, S. A., and Folta, K. M. 2011. Green light induces shade avoidance symptoms. Plant Physiol. 157, 1528-156. Wang, Y. & Folta, K. M. Contributions of green light to plant growth and development. Am. J. Bot. 100, 70–78 (2013). Zhang, T. & Folta, K. M. Green light signaling and adaptive response. Plant Signal. Behav. 7, 75–78 (2012). Johkan, M. et al. Blue light-emitting diode light irradiation of seedlings improves seedling quality and growth after transplanting in red leaf lettuce. HortScience 45, 1809–1814 (2010). Kasajima, S., et al. Effect of Light Quality on Developmental Rate of Wheat under Continuous Light at a Constant Temperature. Plant Prod. Sci. 10, 286–291 (2007). Banerjee, R. et al. The signaling state of Arabidopsis cryptochrome 2 contains flavin semiquinone. J. Biol. Chem. 282, 14916–14922 (2007). Goggin, D. E. & Steadman, K. J. Blue and green are frequently seen: responses of seeds to short- and mid-wavelength light. Seed Sci. Res. 22, 27–35 (2012). Mandák, B. & Pyšek, P. The effects of light quality, nitrate concentration and presence of bracteoles on germination of different fruit types in the heterocarpous Atriplex sagittata. J. Ecol. 89, 149–158 (2001). Darko, E. et al. Photosynthesis under artificial light: the shift in primary and secondary metabolism. Philos. Trans. R. Soc. B Biol. Sci. 369 (2014). Lu, N. et al. Effects of Supplemental Lighting with Light-Emitting Diodes (LEDs) on Tomato Yield and Quality of Single-Truss Tomato Plants Grown at High Planting Density. Environ. Control Biol. 50, 63–74 (2012).

If ye look at the back right there seems to be a we mutatedeaf growing in the pot beside the actual seed haha

we are entering the 6th week. slowly the little one is growing towards the sun. i did a first topping and started with LST. maybe it was too early with the topping? we will see. the sun is shining more again and the temperatures are slowly rising.

Drying Will be about 14 days.

Looks like she's not gonna have any issue so far,everything goes smoothly,let's see how she develops day by day,Hope you like my work guys! I work with passion and dedication everyday,I love my cannabis and I love to grow this amazing plant!.

Day 35 from seed, Last week the lady's have been growing like crazy😁 i guess they are well established now in there forever home's, also the temps have been dropping quite a bit over here. The week prior i had big troubles getting the temps under 84f at all times but now they are stable again @ around 75/78f lights on and around 70 lights off. Btw upcoming week i'm gonna do a big defoliation and some lollipopping to get them ready for flower🌺🤤 Stay elevated growmies 💚

Hope these flowers start to take off ; think I under did it on calmag and slowed things down but issue has been corrected. Hopefully things start to bounce back and builds up some monster 💐

7/18 Plants are looking great. I was able to rearrange the plants so they have a little bit more space and so I can get around every plant. I have small random pest damage (i.e. I caught a four lined plant bug while hunting jpn beetles) but not enough h to warrant treatment. I will probably spray before flower. Sun's out amd plants were praying. I rotated a couple and it only took a few hours for them to "straighten out." I went to look again rhis morning and made the final determination to expand the cage. I'm looking for the 2x4's and the wire in the next couple days. The work that ive done now will but me sometime. I wonder how this rain impacted my soil. 7/19 Plants are looking fantastic. The stretch is starting. One purple punch looks like it's beginning to flower. I think I'm entering the transition period. Jpn beetle damage is evident but not significant. I defoliated a leaf with a a leafminwr or something in it. It's so much easier to get around the plants now. I'm seeing some chunks missing sporadically though. Went to the roses out back and found TONS of jpn beetleson top of each other reproducing. They destroyed that rose bush. I'm going to keep it as a trap plant. My dad's girlfriend wanted to spray it but that doesn't make sense as theflowers are all gone. Dad's grabbing the materials to extend the cage today I think. Right now I can get around every plant but the two big ones in the back. I just cant get to the backs of them and they are huge. Almost reaching the top of the cage. A 4'-6' extension will do wonders in flower. Can't wait. UPDATE: Dad got the 2x4's and we assembled the extension and attached it. He's grabbing the wire as I type this. This worked out beautifully. I had no idea how big the blueberry cheese in the 50 gallon was! This extension (4ft i think) is PERFECT! Then I can get a little extra wire and pull it out if I wanted to. I think I have another 2x4 that I'm going to use in the middle. Lots of great pics and a video I'll upload tomorrow. Hot af today and humidity still super high. Even the commercial dudes was surprised I don't have wpm l and that judging by some of my plants structure that I may do better than I think. I certainly hope so. I WATERED 3 GALLONS OVER THE WHOLE GARDEN. The blueberry cheese in smart pots were drooping. They drink far more water than tje others. I would've given more but we are supposed to have thunderstorms. I left my back tarp off for the night. It will increase airflow and wind is down. I feel like this is going to be my year. 7/20 I updated and loaded everything on the app but notjing would save. Did it again in the website hopfully this saves i didnt put it all up. Didn't water the plants today. Bags seemed okay weight wise. Good thing I did the extension yesterday because those three plants were drooping they were so thirsty. I focused most of the water yesterday on those plants that needed it. The others were somewhat dry but still had some weight. Like i said the blc drinks much more water than any of the other plants. I'm impressed with the growth I'm seeing. Especially since I have been being very stingy with the water and I've only fed like twice and that was just the kelp me/you and big bloom in negligible amounts. I'm watching for deficiencies. I'm just not seeing them. I'm picking up the wire and finishing the extension and then rearranging things. I'll update. UPDATE: WATERED 4 GALLONS CONCENTRATING ON THE PLANTS THAT WERE DROOPING THE MOST. FINISHED ENCLOSURE AND INCREASED PLANT SPACE. TRELLIS WILL GO UP THIS WEEK. VIDEOS WILL BE UPLOADED TOMORROW. 7/21 I should've watered more volume last night. I noticed two plants that seemed much lighter than the rest. After some deliberation I gave them each a half gallon of water. One was the purple punch in the 10 that's huge amd the other was that huge blueberry cheese. I think I'm going to swap places with them, take out a pallet and get some other way to elevate that ONE plant and I'll have even more room. Then I'll add my supports. It's a dream working in there now. I noticed some small interior leaves being used up and dieing. I defoliated them but it was only a couple. I'll need to start nutes at some point. Doesn't need it yet though. I'm going to add some kelp me/you for the heat stress. I need to get the watering down better but it's more difficult when they each have different needs. I kinda have to read the plant. I'd rather be overwatered than underwatered. I tried to upload what I could but some won't. UPDATE: I went over to clip off some fencing that was doubled up AND just to check on tge girls. Found two caterpillars (small but hairy so they were older not the inch worms and possibly what has been contributing to damage on those plants. Things are spread out so it will be harder for insects to move from plant to plant and I have better air flow. I worry that leaving my tarp off might lead to high winds and plants not able to take it buf I digress. I'll add supports later. Plants are huge and drinking far more water than I've been giving them. When I got there several were drooped right over and dry as a bone. The bags are essentially all roots now. I mixed up 8 gallons of water and split it between the plants. I gave less to the two Co trainer plants that weren't drooping and the 10 I watered yesterday that wasn't drooping but for the most part the ones that needed if got at least a gallon or more. The others a little under a gallon. It might rain A LITTLE tonight too. Oh, and since it's been so hot I added 1/2 tsp per gallon of kelp me kelp you to help the plants deal with heat stress. I also noticed that some of the very bottom interior leaves are being used up. I have a feeling ill need to switch to nutes pretty soon. Plus I need to suppirt those plants if I'm going to leave that tarp off and Gove them air. Took a video. But it won't upload here. I'll have to wait till tomm. 7/22 Didn't have much timevthis morning bit I dod a video. Boy those plants loved that water and that kelp. This morning everyone was standing straight up at attention. Supposed to get rain last night but didn't. Good thing I watered. I think I'm going to up the water next watering and then again to the 10% mark if necessary. Especially with the Blueberry cheeses. I'm noticing that a FEW INTERIOR leaves are showing nute deficiencies so I'm probably going to have to start feeding soon. I'll update later. UPDATE: Went back over and cut off the extra wire. I'm going to need to water more volume. Specifically on two plants. The two huge blueberry cheese in 20 gallon smart bags dries out much faster than the rest. I'll have to out that on a different schedule or increase the amount given. Next watering will be 1.5 or 2 gallons a plant and it might be tomorrow from what I was seeing. It's super hot and with the added airflow the bags dry out faster. I also went through EACH plant looking for pests and defoliating old leaves that needed it. Plants are still nice and green but a VERY few older interior leaves are showing deficiencies. I know this is Normal especially since they are trying n g to transition to flower. I also saw pest damage on a couple plants. Four lined plant bug. I already found the one on the other plant and killed it but I'm considering doing a spray before flower. I'm thinking either captain Jack as a "catch all", BT which works great but mostly just on pillars or the organocide bee safe 3 in one pesticide. I also have pyrethium and other things. Thus far picking things off manually has been good enough. At the very least they will get an application of BT very soon. 7/23 Held off on watering this morning. Supposed to get thunder storms I DID split a gallon with two blueberry cheese that were the lightest in the 20 gallon smart pots. Thet drink way more. My water volume is going to need to increase. We haven't had nearly enough rain. I'm going to bump it up to 1.5 to 2 gallons each plant which will be 10% for the 20s and a little less for the others. I'm still seeing various pest damage. Nothing bad but I found another couples leaves that were chomped on by a four lined plant bug so I'm debating applying something tonight when I water. I'm also noticing old leaves being used up and some interior leaves showing slight deficiencies. It will be time to start nutes soon. I'll update as I go. UPDATE: GOT THE FEELING I NEEDED TO CHECK THE PLANTS. SOMETHING DODNT LOOK RIGHT ON THE CAMS. WENT OVER AND EVERY PLANT BUT THE TWO I SPLIT A GALLON WITH AND THE PLANT IN THE 50 WERE DROOPED RIGHT OVER. LIFELESS. I SHOULD'VE WATERED THIS MORNING BUT I DIDNT HAVE TIME. I FIGURED THEY COULD WAIT UNTIL NIGHT. EACH PLANT GOT 1.5 GALLONS AT LEAST. I USED SIXTEEN OR SEVENTEEN GALLONS ON THE GARDEN. I GAVE EACH CONTAINER PLANT ONE GALLON AND GOT RUN OFF FROM BOTH. IM NOTICING SKIGHT FADING IN LEAVES BUT IM NOT INTRODUCING NUTES TO UNDERWATERED PLANTS. I THINK 10% IS GONNA BE TGE MAGIC NUMBER. 2 GALLONS EACH. EVEN THE 10 GALLON SMART POT. ALMLST AS BIG AS THE 30S BUT DRIES OUT QUICKER. 7/24 Plants looked fantastic this morning. Defoliated a few leaves that needed it. Showed my commercial buddy and he said things looked fantastic. Since the soils still holding nutes and I'm not seeing many deficiencies I may hold off on feeding. I'm starting early flower now. I will be using nutes soon. I think ive got the watering schedule pretty much down.

Nov 12th Grow went absolutely stunning, these Sherbet Auto flowers from NOS are the bees-knees, you can do whatever you want to them training wise and they will thrive, as well as stay compact. Ideal for micro grows, or people who like small plants and thick, dense, frosty nuggets. I see about 5-10% amber trichomes as of November 12th, today or tomorrow I will do a final water, and turn the lights off for 48 hrs before chopping and hanging to dry in the same grow space. I'm drying in the grow space because of the aphids, I need the plant material to dry, and the aphids to die, before I take them out to trim or cure, because my other Mango Runtz tent flying under the phid's radar so far. So a major reset is gonna take place before I plant more autos. One is turning pink and pretty quick I like that it fits the sherbet theme!

Melonade Runtz is staring to purple as well. It's so beautiful and it's just the beginning. They are loving life.

สร้างเนื้อดอกเร็วมากๆ ต้นไม้ยังคงสุขภาพดี ในขณะที่ให้Ecสูงถึง 3.2ec รันออฟ 4.9ec

This outside AK Auto is doing extremely well in the eastern Canada climate gotten a little rain but lots of hight heat and humidity. Very healthy girl no stress

Comecei uma semana realizando o treinamento de baixo estresse e uma desfoliação. Não fiz poda top, não acho que seja adequado para plantas rápidas. Vamos ver como vai ser o resultado. Não pretendo mais fazer intervenções no crescimento. A pequena lá do fundo não vou mexer .

Thirsty girl drank 3/4 a gallon plain water,gonna brew some AACT, tonight, then add veganic special sauce after brewing 12 hours, and unleash my microbial army. Moohaha!😈

03/31/25: Today was a major milestone in the grow: all five plants were transplanted into 1-gallon AirPots and topped above the 3rd node. I also cleaned up everything below node two, leaving each plant with two strong, healthy nodes to begin shaping their structure for the vegetative phase. Normally, I wouldn’t combine transplanting and topping on the same day, as both are stress-inducing events. However, the plants looked robust and healthy, showing no signs of weakness. Because of this, I felt confident they could handle the dual stress. Still, I expect them to take the next 2–3 days to recover, after which I anticipate they’ll bounce back with even more vigor. Each plant was moved into a 1-gallon AirPot, which encourages air pruning and promotes a more fibrous, expansive root system. During transplant, I sprinkled mycorrhizal fungi directly near the rootball of each plant to help stimulate root colonization and increase nutrient uptake during this critical phase. On inspection, the roots were healthy and white, showing no signs of being rootbound—making this the perfect window for transplanting without risking transplant shock or root constriction. The newly potted plants were placed back into the 4x4 tent, now sitting about 36 inches (approximately 91.5 cm) below the AC Infinity S44 light, which is set to 40% power. This provides a PAR reading of around 360 µmol/m²/s, which is well-suited for early veg. To begin early phenotype tracking, I’ve labeled the plants as PP1 through PP5: • PP1: Most vigorous plant so far • PP2: Slightly behind PP1 in size and growth rate • PP3–PP5: Showing very similar growth characteristics, slightly more compact If early vigor is any indication of sex, I would guess that PP1 and PP2 may be male, while PP3 through PP5 could be female. That said, this is purely speculative—true sex traits won’t reveal themselves until preflower, and many vigorous plants end up being female as well.

Harvested after 3 days flush and two days night after recommended 9 weeks. Got 2 phenos. One better and more representative of the strain description which i kept a clone of to S1 and stabilize. As usual uploading here is a pita it didnt upload my videos again really annoying, but pics show the better strain is stronger bramches, stretchier, and better buds. I cut them in the video so no one cries i didnt harvest lol. Smell is from sourish sweet to sweet and mossy like a green slurpy or something. 6 week testers were potent and frosty already so i cant imagine after proper harvest and cure.