i should have vegged these clones longer and not defoliate so much, but overal the grow has gone smooth and amazing smell after week 5 whoa

I grew Lemon Grass Auto and Emerald Fire OG Auto from Humboldt Seed Company. I like the Emerald Fire OG Auto. Nice smokes while I wait for my photoperiod plants.

Week 5 flowering for our strawberry gorilla from fastbuds 420! The buds are starting to get fatter day by day, we continue with our food program. This week again we gave sugar shot, sticky fingers, bloom booster, silica, amino and master root all from xpert nutrients. All good at the moment 🤗

Today I have diced it is time to switch to 12/12 scheme. Net is almost covered and I am expecting some stretch during pre-flower phase. Watering volume is increasing day by day, thanks to my dehumidifier I can keep the VPD around 1.2. Temperature is a thing... probably need to cool down some in a few weeks. Thankfully I am already adding CO2 so that should do it. As you can see I have raised EC a bit. That was easier than bringing the PH down with PH-minus. Some little burned tips on the leaves but I do like the overall colour. So let's see how it goes. 15/06: Sorry... something more important came up than updating my report.... On Monday, I start working for a boss... it's been over 20 years, so it will take some getting used to... I also suddenly had to buy a car because I hate cycling. I usually dislike driving too, but as long as the car has enough power, I can live with it and stay dry. Regarding the ladies... the problem with the persistent lighting does indeed seem to be an internet issue, as it hasn't occurred again. Furthermore, the amens is just brutally large compared to the others and will soon overgrow the whole net. I don't mind... I always prefer the strongest. In the photo from 3 days ago, this is still fairly visible, but in the photos below, it's getting harder to see... Harvesting will also be fun... Keeping the stuff separate by type will be a challenge. Water values are currently nice and stable, though I did increase the CO2 slightly to an average of 1350ppm. I've also already hung my blooming lamps (not visible in the photo). These are again Chinese quantum boards, but 400W each. They will run 4 hours a day for the last 3 weeks. This way, the dehumidifier doesn't have to work as hard, and I keep the stuff around 30˚C. Actually quite satisfied.... the first signs of flowering seem visible, but not convincing enough to take pictures yet...

Week 9 day 1 video pheno. Gonna chop this week Week 9 day 7 well chop this weekend so on week 10 Day 1-2. Just waiting on a light to reveg one. Everything is magic

As you can see the plants started preflowering mid last week, so now i changed the nutrien solution with preflowering ml/L. Some roots start to appear outside the pot at the base. As you can see the biggest one is higher than the led (shit, i can't make it upper ;( ). I have to think what to do Plants look happy and healthy and have doubled it size last week, from 35 cm to 68 cm Day 46 update - I opened a groww qestion about some marks on leaves. I thought it was nutrient deficency but it seems to be nutrient excess. I have used flash clean from terra aquatica/ghe to remove salt excess at coco. I also observed that it was too dry on some plants so i will add 1 more water period along the day. I will wait 24-30 hours without watering and will change the reservoir to flowering doses. I have taken a few pics with natural light

Start of week 8 of flowering, day 78 for the plant. She's healthy but the buds are slow to fill out in size, this could be the result of the heat stress she suffered. Other than that, I'm still happy with this plant.

Tras 18 horas de Germinación se raliza el primer transplante de la variedad green gelato de RQS a su primera maceta de 0,4 lts. Y al paso de 12 horas de luz en fotoperiodo 18/6 ya se asoman a la superficie 🌱 Potenciamos el desarrollo radicular aplicando micorrizas (Red roots) de Quemanta Nutrientes Veremos como evolucionan al paso de los días

Still getting denser and fatter each day, will be coming in to the last couple week towards end of this week so will be holding back on the nutes soon and be giving a good flush at end of this week. Not far to go now conditions are good little bit on the hot side but plants seem to still be thriving and the humidity is exactly where I want it so fingers crossed will be a good strong harvest, let’s see how these last few week pan out so far so good

Day 15 Update : Decided to grab a tape measure to check canopy heights on a whim and discovered that my light was hanging 35 inches from “Cellie” Cereal and Milk . Wowzers 👀! So I raised the plant to be 26 inches from the light that I also dimmed down to about 40% . It works out that I can try to get the most out of the end of flower stretch for the older gal who shall no more than be mentioned for reference to accentuate the great glorious glamorous “Cellie”. The humidity plummeted after I did a major defoliation of the older gals so I adjusted the airflow rate of the lower in-line fan and the upper inline exhaust fan with the carbon filter . I lowered them both to the lowest setting & the humidity returned to “normal” Let me explain my reasonings/thinking behind my adjustments which are experimental at BEST. It’s worth also mentioning without having to preset a single thing on my 70pint Dehumidifier located inside this tent it is legitimately only plugged into my PRESET humidistat controller which is set to 50%-46% RH WITH an alarm on highs of 55% and lows of 43% . In real life what this translates to is when this humidity controller triggers the dehumidifier ON @50%RH immediately the fan of the Dehumidifier begins running. However this does not help the rising humidity that is occurring (it will reach 55%-60.2%RH ). Given a fixed amount of time , the condenser(atleast what it sounds like . .again, it could be anything) turns on . It is when this “condenser” “sounding” component begins working that the humidity IMMEDIATELY plummets down to my low point of 46% So to make a long story short the humidity gets vacuumed to 46%RH & the dehumidifier turns off, bc of the PURPOSEFUL EXPERIMENTAL TWEAKING making all air exchange fans low leveled the humidity slowly but steadily rises to 50%RH then the dehumidifier is triggered on but only the fans initially and the humidity eventually reaches 55%RH-60.2%RH & then the humidity gets all its hair snatched out by the dehumidifier and drops back down to 46%RH. 😮‍💨😮‍💨😮‍💨😮‍💨 with all that said of anybody was even interested per my tents leaf canopy height temperature average good to great OR LITE GREEN TO DARK GREEN VPD for my temperature begins @ 60 & ends @ 52 which is kind of a perfect storm for OUR GIRL “CELLIE” oooooooorrrrrrrrrrr sssssssoooooo I think/hope . She still hasn’t needed watering since being transplanted, she should now ready and willing to stretch those toes and we need the opportunities to top water that soil a few times to make those dry amendments available to her . More pics of later the week coming as we go . . Hopefully . Diligence is a practice Day #17: giving her some water today, no specific amount just until she feels the right amount of “heavy”. She was given 3 different batches of water once ph’d to 6.3 once ph’d to 6.7 one ph’d to 6.5. She’s grown an inch in 2 days. Also swapped out the smart hygrometer system to a different brand . So far it has all the capability I was looking for but I need to run 2 more experiments to know for certain it lives up to my needs and its price tag 😁 Day 18 Update: she grew an inch taller nice 👍 The smart hygrometer system has reported/experience Bluetooth failures twice already(although I don’t know exactly what that means considering I purchased this for it’s Wifi capabilities ) I didn’t think to check it whilst I was away so I cannot yet say If it meets my final expectation/need I bought a soil ph meter & it indicates “my mix” is at 3.1 ph 👀 hmm 🤔 I’m wondering if this is a must fix or can I get by .eventually she will be transplanted and at that time I can use my new digital soil ph probe to construct her new blend moving forward but I am curious is I mixed another batch at 3 something ph would it matter ? In the beginning I wasn’t ph’ing any of my watering just because I assumed my soil mixture was highly acidic because of the 70ish pecernr peat moss base . I also assumed that it would be acid fixing for the water I put in it and therefore wouldn’t need to ph it and I did just fine just giving plain old tap water when thirsty until I experience VPD issues & in an effort to pinpoint what my exact issue was and how to fix it I of course eliminated all the variables and dialed in on my ph of my feed water and now my soil so it leaves me wondering does the soil need to be relatively 6.1 ph or is the 3.1 I’m flying at alright also . I checked the other 3 currently in here getting through flower & two of them are in the 3’s for ph & one of them is 6.2(the largest of them all) how ever she was the largest of them all always and oddly enough I mixed one big batch for them and transplanted them at the same time so I get two of them having the same ph as “Cellie” but the other that is in ph heaven is an oddball Should I top her here or supercrop later hmm I need to decide my vision for this thing Day 19 Update: ponytailed her youngest internode for about 16hrs she aggressively popped out of it twice ! It didn’t even work for 24hrs when I try it again it’ll be before the internode is so strong . Also rigged up a 16in oscillating wall-fan that currently being held with 2 zip ties , 2 rubber bands , & a smidget of duct tape and MAJORITY OF FAITH keeping it in place . The biggest plus to my added circulation is that I got the 16in fan for ! A win is a win . Pics uploads will be held for the next 3 days until the end of week 3 upload . Drop a thumbs up Day 20 Update : THE FAN FELL! But no one was damaged or injured . I re-rigged it . This time with duct tape , 3 popsicle sticks , 2 heavy duty zip ties & 1 regular strength zip tie . SHES SOLID NOW 😂 I did some solid rigging this time & have videoed my handy work . Also I forgot to turn my A/C back on before leaving the house so temps and humidity skyrocketed and swung for 9 hours until I got home . The temp in the tent was 84.4 and the humidity went from 42.4 to 57.5 to 42 every three mins. Day 21 Update : SHES A PRETTY GIRL. RQS says Cereal Milk is a slightly sativa dominant hybrid but the pheno of this particular seed seems to lean more towards indica I’m not mad at it ! I’m getting more stoked to see what she can do. She still hasn’t received any additional water since day #18.

Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.

Week 2 on these lady's

Praying the warm weather holds out until October. I was told this strain take about 60 days in flower before harvest

Girls grew a lot these two weeks. I was away on vacation and they did fine. Except I wasn't there to control the stretch perfectly. But you don't have to be perfect every time. I managed to take some clones from one monster plant. Fingers crossed she will end up with purple flowers.

Just feeding it at the moment. Still not to sure if it's male or female yet. She is female 😁.

📆 Semana 4 de floración – Permanent Jealousy Auto XL La Permanent Jealousy Auto XL entra en su cuarta semana de floración con muy buena pinta. Los cogollos han engordado notablemente respecto a la semana anterior, y empiezan a llenarse de pistilos que ya apuntan hacia todas direcciones. Se nota que está en plena faena. El desarrollo de resina se ha disparado y las hojas cercanas a los cogollos empiezan a brillar con tricomas. El olor también ha subido de nivel: una mezcla intensa entre lo dulce, lo químico y lo funky, que promete bastante. La planta se mantiene estable, con buen consumo de agua y nutrientes. No hay signos de estrés, ni por temperatura, ni por alimentación. Todo bajo control, y el ritmo de floración se está cumpliendo como toca para una XL automática bien criada. A este paso, se viene una buena cosecha. ¡Seguimos creciendo fuerte 💪!

I was still dealing with lockout problems until the end of this week. I flushed everything with pH'ed water and after that, gave her 3L of 1ml/L nutrient solution to compensate the loss. We went from 5.9 to 6.3 soil pH and as you can see in the pictures, it stabilized. I am now very cautious of when and how I water and feed. I built some legs from ABS tubing for the elevated tray that helps when I want to empty the saucer. The light is at 70cm, 80% power for 650PPFD. I might invest in a CO2 reader to know if I could give her more. I have to adjust the power and distance of the light to get the adequate room temperature. I'm aiming for the highest difference between day and night. 2 more weeks of veg and depending on the size, I'll decide to switch or not.

I was lazy with changing water for the first two weeks but I change water weekly and it looks like she’s enjoying what I’m feeding her. Although one plant is growing after than the other.