Only water filled up again. 💦 Due to the rather humid living soul substrates, a few fungus gnats

it grows well on cold environment

Yellow butterfly came to see me the other day; that was nice. Starting to show signs of stress on the odd leaf, localized isolated blips, blemishes, who said growing up was going to be easy! Smaller leaves have less surface area for stomata to occupy, so the stomata are packed more densely to maintain adequate gas exchange. Smaller leaves might have higher stomatal density to compensate for their smaller size, potentially maximizing carbon uptake and minimizing water loss. Environmental conditions like light intensity and water availability can influence stomatal density, and these factors can affect leaf size as well. Leaf development involves cell division and expansion, and stomatal differentiation is sensitive to these processes. In essence, the smaller leaf size can lead to a higher stomatal density due to the constraints of available space and the need to optimize gas exchange for photosynthesis and transpiration. In the long term, UV-B radiation can lead to more complex changes in stomatal morphology, including effects on both stomatal density and size, potentially impacting carbon sequestration and water use. In essence, UV-B can be a double-edged sword for stomata: It can induce stomatal closure and potentially reduce stomatal size, but it may also trigger an increase in stomatal density as a compensatory mechanism. It is generally more efficient for gas exchange to have smaller leaves with a higher stomatal density, rather than large leaves with lower stomatal density. This is because smaller stomata can facilitate faster gas exchange due to shorter diffusion pathways, even though they may have the same total pore area as fewer, larger stomata. Leaf size tends to decrease in colder climates to reduce heat loss, while larger leaves are more common in warmer, humid environments. Plants in arid regions often develop smaller leaves with a thicker cuticle and/or hairs to minimize water loss through transpiration. Conversely, plants in wet environments may have larger leaves and drip tips to facilitate water runoff. Leaf size and shape can vary based on light availability. For example, leaves in shaded areas may be larger and thinner to maximize light absorption. Leaf mass per area (LMA) can be higher in stressful environments with limited nutrients, indicating a greater investment in structural components for protection and critical resource conservation. Wind speed, humidity, and soil conditions can also influence leaf morphology, leading to variations in leaf shape, size, and surface characteristics. Small leaves: Reduce water loss in arid or cold climates. Environmental conditions significantly affect gene expression in plants. Plants are sessile organisms, meaning they cannot move to escape unfavorable conditions, so they rely on gene expression to adapt to their surroundings. Environmental factors like light, temperature, water, and nutrient availability can trigger changes in gene expression, allowing plants to respond to and survive in diverse environments. Depending on the environment a young seedling encounters, the developmental program following seed germination could be skotomorphogenesis in the dark or photomorphogenesis in the light. Light signals are interpreted by a repertoire of photoreceptors followed by sophisticated gene expression networks, eventually resulting in developmental changes. The expression and functions of photoreceptors and key signaling molecules are highly coordinated and regulated at multiple levels of the central dogma in molecular biology. Light activates gene expression through the actions of positive transcriptional regulators and the relaxation of chromatin by histone acetylation. Small regulatory RNAs help attenuate the expression of light-responsive genes. Alternative splicing, protein phosphorylation/dephosphorylation, the formation of diverse transcriptional complexes, and selective protein degradation all contribute to proteome diversity and change the functions of individual proteins. Photomorphogenesis, the light-driven developmental changes in plants, significantly impacts gene expression. It involves a cascade of events where light signals, perceived by photoreceptors, trigger changes in gene expression patterns, ultimately leading to the development of a plant in response to its light environment. Genes are expressed, not dictated! While having the potential to encode proteins, genes are not automatically and constantly active. Instead, their expression (the process of turning them into proteins) is carefully regulated by the cell, responding to internal and external signals. This means that genes can be "turned on" or "turned off," and the level of expression can be adjusted, depending on the cell's needs and the surrounding environment. In plants, genes are not simply "on" or "off" but rather their expression is carefully regulated based on various factors, including the cell type, developmental stage, and environmental conditions. This means that while all cells in a plant contain the same genetic information (the same genes), different cells will express different subsets of those genes at different times. This regulation is crucial for the proper functioning and development of the plant. When a green plant is exposed to red light, much of the red light is absorbed, but some is also reflected back. The reflected red light, along with any blue light reflected from other parts of the plant, can be perceived by our eyes as purple. Carotenoids absorb light in blue-green region of the visible spectrum, complementing chlorophyll's absorption in the red region. They safeguard the photosynthetic machinery from excessive light by activating singlet oxygen, an oxidant formed during photosynthesis. Carotenoids also quench triplet chlorophyll, which can negatively affect photosynthesis, and scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS) that can damage cellular proteins. Additionally, carotenoid derivatives signal plant development and responses to environmental cues. They serve as precursors for the biosynthesis of phytohormones such as abscisic acid () and strigolactones (SLs). These pigments are responsible for the orange, red, and yellow hues of fruits and vegetables, while acting as free scavengers to protect plants during photosynthesis. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is an electronically excited state of molecular oxygen (O₂). Singlet oxygen is produced as a byproduct during photosynthesis, primarily within the photosystem II (PSII) reaction center and light-harvesting antenna complex. This occurs when excess energy from excited chlorophyll molecules is transferred to molecular oxygen. While singlet oxygen can cause oxidative damage, plants have mechanisms to manage its production and mitigate its harmful effects. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is considered a reactive oxygen species (ROS). It's a form of oxygen with higher energy and reactivity compared to the more common triplet oxygen found in its ground state. Singlet oxygen is generated both in biological systems, such as during photosynthesis in plants, and in cellular processes, and through chemical and photochemical reactions. While singlet oxygen is a ROS, it's important to note that it differs from other ROS like superoxide (O₂⁻), hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂), and hydroxyl radicals (OH) in its formation, reactivity, and specific biological roles. Non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) protects plants from damage caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) by dissipating excess light energy as heat. This process reduces the overexcitation of photosynthetic pigments, which can lead to the production of ROS, thus mitigating the potential for photodamage. Zeaxanthin, a carotenoid pigment, plays a crucial role in photoprotection in plants by both enhancing non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS). In high-light conditions, zeaxanthin is synthesized from violaxanthin through the xanthophyll cycle, and this zeaxanthin then facilitates heat dissipation of excess light energy (NPQ) and quenches harmful ROS. The Issue of Singlet Oxygen!! ROS Formation: Blue light, with its higher energy photons, can promote the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), including singlet oxygen, within the plant. Potential Damage: High levels of ROS can damage cellular components, including proteins, lipids, and DNA, potentially impacting plant health and productivity. Balancing Act: A balanced spectrum of light, including both blue and red light, is crucial for mitigating the harmful effects of excessive blue light and promoting optimal plant growth and stress tolerance. The Importance of Red Light: Red light (especially far-red) can help to mitigate the negative effects of excessive blue light by: Balancing the Photoreceptor Response: Red light can influence the activity of photoreceptors like phytochrome, which are involved in regulating plant responses to different light wavelengths. Enhancing Antioxidant Production: Red and blue light can stimulate the production of antioxidants, which help to neutralize ROS and protect the plant from oxidative damage. Optimizing Photosynthesis: Red light is efficiently used in photosynthesis, and its combination with blue light can lead to increased photosynthetic efficiency and biomass production. In controlled environments like greenhouses and vertical farms, optimizing the ratio of blue and red light is a key strategy for promoting healthy plant growth and yield. Understanding the interplay between blue light signaling, ROS production, and antioxidant defense mechanisms can inform breeding programs and biotechnological interventions aimed at improving plant stress resistance. In summary, while blue light is essential for plant development and photosynthesis, it's crucial to balance it with other light wavelengths, particularly red light, to prevent excessive ROS formation and promote overall plant health. Oxidative damage in plants occurs when there's an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the plant's ability to neutralize them, leading to cellular damage. This imbalance, known as oxidative stress, can result from various environmental stressors, affecting plant growth, development, and overall productivity. Causes of Oxidative Damage: Abiotic stresses: These include extreme temperatures (heat and cold), drought, salinity, heavy metal toxicity, and excessive light. Biotic stresses: Pathogen attacks and insect infestations can also trigger oxidative stress. Metabolic processes: Normal cellular activities, particularly in chloroplasts, mitochondria, and peroxisomes, can generate ROS as byproducts. Certain chlorophyll biosynthesis intermediates can produce singlet oxygen (1O2), a potent ROS, leading to oxidative damage. ROS can damage lipids (lipid peroxidation), proteins, carbohydrates, and nucleic acids (DNA). Oxidative stress can compromise the integrity of cell membranes, affecting their function and permeability. Oxidative damage can interfere with essential cellular functions, including photosynthesis, respiration, and signal transduction. In severe cases, oxidative stress can trigger programmed cell death (apoptosis). Oxidative damage can lead to stunted growth, reduced biomass, and lower crop yields. Plants have evolved intricate antioxidant defense systems to counteract oxidative stress. These include: Enzymes like superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), and various peroxidases scavenge ROS and neutralize their damaging effects. Antioxidant molecules like glutathione, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), C60 fullerene, and carotenoids directly neutralize ROS. Developing plant varieties with gene expression focused on enhanced antioxidant capacity and stress tolerance is crucial. Optimizing irrigation, fertilization, and other management practices can help minimize stress and oxidative damage. Applying antioxidant compounds or elicitors can help plants cope with oxidative stress. Introducing genes for enhanced antioxidant enzymes or stress-related proteins over generations. Phytohormones, also known as plant hormones, are a group of naturally occurring organic compounds that regulate plant growth, development, and various physiological processes. The five major classes of phytohormones are: auxins, gibberellins, cytokinins, ethylene, and abscisic acid. In addition to these, other phytohormones like brassinosteroids, jasmonates, and salicylates also play significant roles. Here's a breakdown of the key phytohormones: Auxins: Primarily involved in cell elongation, root initiation, and apical dominance. Gibberellins: Promote stem elongation, seed germination, and flowering. Cytokinins: Stimulate cell division and differentiation, and delay leaf senescence. Ethylene: Regulates fruit ripening, leaf abscission, and senescence. Abscisic acid (ABA): Plays a role in seed dormancy, stomatal closure, and stress responses. Brassinosteroids: Involved in cell elongation, division, and stress responses. Jasmonates: Regulate plant defense against pathogens and herbivores, as well as other processes. Salicylic acid: Plays a role in plant defense against pathogens. 1. Red and Far-Red Light (Phytochromes): Red light: Primarily activates the phytochrome system, converting it to its active form (Pfr), which promotes processes like stem elongation and flowering. Far-red light: Inhibits the phytochrome system by converting the active Pfr form back to the inactive Pr form. This can trigger shade avoidance responses and inhibit germination. Phytohormones: Red and far-red light regulate phytohormones like auxin and gibberellins, which are involved in stem elongation and other growth processes. 2. Blue Light (Cryptochromes and Phototropins): Blue light: Activates cryptochromes and phototropins, which are involved in various processes like stomatal opening, seedling de-etiolation, and phototropism (growth towards light). Phytohormones: Blue light affects auxin levels, influencing stem growth, and also impacts other phytohormones involved in these processes. Example: Blue light can promote vegetative growth and can interact with red light to promote flowering. 3. UV-B Light (UV-B Receptors): UV-B light: Perceived by UVR8 receptors, it can affect plant growth and development and has roles in stress responses, like UV protection. Phytohormones: UV-B light can influence phytohormones involved in stress responses, potentially affecting growth and development. 4. Other Colors: Green light: Plants are generally less sensitive to green light, as chlorophyll reflects it. Other wavelengths: While less studied, other wavelengths can also influence plant growth and development through interactions with different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Key Points: Cross-Signaling: Plants often experience a mix of light wavelengths, leading to complex interactions between different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Species Variability: The precise effects of light color on phytohormones can vary between different plant species. Hormonal Interactions: Phytohormones don't act in isolation; their interactions and interplay with other phytohormones and environmental signals are critical for plant responses. The spectral ratio of light (the composition of different colors of light) significantly influences a plant's hormonal balance. Different wavelengths of light are perceived by specific photoreceptors in plants, which in turn regulate the production and activity of various plant hormones (phytohormones). These hormones then control a wide range of developmental processes.

***DIVINE SEEDS ***** *****OPIUM***** Sponsored grow Week 4 Germination April 6. Week 1 water only Week 2 water only Week 3 added recharge and* TPS1 increasing ppm to 570. Week 4 added calmag, did LST and defoliation. Before & after pics. Increase ppm to 685 This week 4/28-5/4 consisted of plain ph 6.6-6.9 water with recharge, calmag and TPS1. 4/24 updated my ACInfinity app and started using the advanced programming settings for early vegetation. This is keeping humidity in 70% with temps in 80. What I don't like is using advanced programming, the humidifier is at level6 . This spews moisture directly on my plants, into the drain tray and floor. 5/1 I did some LST and defoliation. Before and after pics above. Until the plants are big enough to go outside, I will be using my AC Infinity tent and equipment. Once outside, I will be watering with well water and recharge and any additional fertilizers or amendments will be determined at that time. Thank you @DivineSeeds Thanks for the likes and comments, I appreciate all the plant love💚. Have fun & love what you grow 💚 Sending love and light 💫 💫Natrona 💫 DIVINE SEEDS ***OPIUM*** Harvest:1000 g/m2 Divine Seeds developed Opium as a new champion strain, unprecedently powerful and loaded with unbelievable quantities of resin. Certainly, no average genetic base could be behind such brilliant parameters! Several Afghani Indica landraces, recognized as most potent and resinous, were bred together with a mighty Brazilian Sativa which Opium inherits its bright berry taste from. Then a great deal of work followed aiming for the highest THC level and endurability as well as a branchy structure that would provide maximal yields. Now we can proudly title Opium the best Indica you could dream of growing! Indoors these plants mostly stay mid-height (1.5 m), reaching up to 2.0 m out of doors. Depending on your height limitations, Opium flourishes universally in grow boxes, balconies, green houses and terraces. Due to its Afghani parentage, this strain can stand hot weather if provided enough water and some shadow. Responds well to any training techniques: ScroG and SoG, LST, topping and FIM, supercropping. The start of blooming is marked with a rush of growth, when plants stretch almost 1.4x. Expect heavy colas that often require additional supports. Whilst ripening, Opium gives off a pungent earthy stench with fruity and berry undertones, also a bit of pine. Ready for outdoor harvesting in October. The stoning psychedelic impact of Opium is like being hypnotized (unless you’ve had too much, then it feels more like a blackout). Stone-lovers will appreciate every minute with Opium: its spicy taste immerses your mind into daydreaming, while the body rests flat. Recreation with this psychedelic Indica means silent tripping from one insight to another. Mighty enough to kill chronical pains, Opium is also medically efficient against insomnia, nausea, appetite disorders, muscle spasms, headaches, irritation, fatigue, panic attacks, epilepsy. Best consumed at night time, the effects keep going for up to 4 hours. Equipment and nutrients Pots: 5gallon Air pots Soil Fox Farm Happy Frog Amended with worm castings, dolomite lime and mychorihiza Recharge Seeds provided by Divine Seeds Divine Seeds breeding company The link to Opium Feminized Seeds Opium - Divine Seeds breeding company The link to Opium Auto Seeds Auto Opium - Divine Seeds breeding company ================================= Equipment: AC Infinity CLOUDLAB 844 – Advance Grow Tent 48”x48”x80” CONTROLLER 69 PRO – Grow Tent Controller CLOUDLINE LITE 6 - Inline Fan 6" IONBOARD S44 – LED Grow Light Board 400W CLOUDRAY S6 – Oscillating Circulation Clip Fan Carbon Filter 6” 4

Plants are growing like crazy. The babies are now fully into the veg phase with the white widow plants standing head and shoulders above the competition. The plants that have reached the capacity of their nursery pots got bumped up to 3 gallon pots today. They went in these pots to buy us time until we harvest the big flowering plants. Once these are harvested in two weeks, the plants in veg will go into the large pots that they will finish in. These are where we will do the full bag of super soil. We are using a 33% Oly Fish Compost Living Organic Soil from BuildASoil at the recommendation of our grow store. This is what we used today in the 3 gallon pots.

D50/FD22 - Right, water change day (Evening). Right and proper f**ked off with the light doing me over (See D49/FD21 Comment for that epic story!!!). Where stretch had stopped (I thought), plants are back in the lights AGAIN!!! Blaming the light giving a near 24hour session and some other broken sessions of light over the last 48 hours!!! So had to pull out the extraction as getting LED burn on leaves that are touching! Blowing through the Carbon Filter and can't really smell anything so that's not bad. Everything a wee bit noisier with the fan not being muffled in the tent but need the space and got around a foot. Not prefiltering the fan as I have the new Cloudline to go in for next grow. Hopefully they grow no more and its all thickening buds from here so as I have space for the UVB in there in a week or 2! Slight change in feed. Dropped the roots booster as Wilma can't take any more...its full!!! Dunno how I am still getting 50L of water in there!!! Added PK9/18 (At half strength). Should probs drop the calmag (Or Kind Base down a bit) to drop nitrogen but am still seeing some copper spots here and there that looks like wee calcium deficiencies (Not much, but its there) - I do have some BioBizz CalMag (Which is Nitrogen Free) but it leaves the tank stinking with precipitate and dirties the roots. Think this is the 1st grow I have had where all the stems staying green so plants generally healthy. Cherry Pie still not budding up as quickly or as thickly as the Red hot Cookies but looks like its maybe running only a couple of days behind in growth so no biggie. Few weeks left for it to catch up and surprise me at the end! 😁 Now just to make sure I see no signs of re-veg...as per the D49/FD21 comment, I'll be scowling at GeekLight this week. Digital Timer in there now to ensure no bleed through - power gets hard cut like old times. Unfortunately though, when the light comes on via power-on (and not app timer mode), UV & IR comes on too so have a timer set to stop it after 1 min (Its about all the app being used for now!!! Apart from turning on my IV at midnight for 4 hours - which is, I have just seen, still working). Think that's all the s**te I have to talk for now! Happy Growing all!!! 💪

9/3 Shook the plants off this morning and took a few pics and did a video. Let's see if it uploads. Plants are doing good. Toasted toffy is due for another plant doctor application tonight. It seems like I'm losing lots of leaves. Looking back on my other diaries I guess it's normal. BUT I could've had pest/pathogen problems then. I'm over thinking it. Toasted toffy only needs a few more weeks. It will definitely outvrun the disease. The nugs are super dense too. The plant in the 50 is loosing leaves faster than I'd like. It is also one of the furthest along. The big leaves that turn yellow look like it's a calcium/magnesium issue. The stalk and branches are all bright green and healthy looking. So are the flowers. It could be something below the soil. I couldve been overwatering but last time I waited until it drooped. It will be fine though. I'm happy with my results so far. Not my best or biggest year but I'm going to put in the work and Mae these plants produce the best quality cannabis that im able too. Also I think plant doctor may kill insects. K bicarb with dawn does too. I've found a few dead bugs like flies and pillars. Pillars actually seem to be gone. Not many moths either. Unless I see them I'm not going to treat them for it. This is that magical time where you get to watch the plant produce those beautiful flowers. Despite some small problems I'm very grateful for what I have. I've worked hard for it. 9/4 Watered everything but the sherb pie which was still heavy with leaves yellowing. It's tied for the furthest behind in flower with the seed in the 10. I treated the toasted toffy with 1/4 gallon (4tsp/gallon) of plant doctor. I avoided flowers as much as possible and tried to just get a few leaves. I used the rest on the soil. I just wanted it to absorb a little faster. That's why I sprayed the foliage. It's not 4 days it's 14 days when tje plant doctor just leaves behind a bunch of potassium and phosphorus after it's done its job. Can't be used in a 14 day interval with copper and I think that's what treats septoria best. I dontvknow if I can use that in flower. Doesn't really matter. Things are looking good. Plant Doctor and the K bicarb seem to be doing there job effectively as long as i stick to the application times. I made a short video but didn't upload. I'll try again but I may have some medical emergencies that need to be dealt with. If not I should defoliate and tie down some event horizon branches. I thought about treating the other event horizon as well. I'm not positive it has septoria but it wouldn't hurt anything to be practice. It AT LEAST has a couple suspucuous spots. I smelled a skunk as soon as I got out of my car. It can't get in my grow but I might put out traps to catch it. We'll see how it goes. Video seems to be uploading. It's at 31% so I'll wait for it. I think I've got like four or five weeks on my toasted toffy and one event horizon and the one in the 50 that I THINK is red runtz. That's good that I'll have different plants to harvest at different times. It's seeds from here on out though. It was hard to find info on some of the strains I'm growing but they all have ONE thing in common. They are EXOTIC and they are at least MODERATELY DIFFICULT to grow. AT LEAST lol. Last year I picked the right seefs and strains and it greatly helped. Still, if these are difficult strains to grow, then I'm doing a good job. EDIT: I WAS STONED BUT IM PRETTY SURE I TREATED THE PLANT IN THE 50 WITH PLANT DOCTOR. DIDNT SPRAY BUDS. TRIED TO GET THE LEAVES THEN USED THE REST ON THE SOIL. I REMEMBER BECAUSE A STREAM ACCIDENTLY HIT A COUPLE LEAVES ON THE HUGE PLANT IN THE 10. 9/5 Sherb Pie was light and drooping. It's not to far in flower and still seemed moist yesterday with a little bit of weight. I watered it a gallon. I defoliated a little but I need to go through that plant. I have a bunch of plants that need a little work. The 50 gal seed is losing lots of leaves. I must not be feeding it enough, overwatering or maybe theres some sort of lock out. The plant looks nice and healthy. Leaves just turn yellow and die. Looked like a calcium or magnesium deficiency but i saw a septoria spot. I wouldn't think I've over feed or locked out using the small amounts of nutes I've used. It will be time to feed again soon. It's in the middle of flowering and still has leaves. I'm hoping things work out. I just have an anxiety disorder and worry too much. I'm GOING To have a great harve! I just need to keep moving forward and putting in the work. 9/6 What a fucking shitty morning. I did research on how to keep skunks out of your garden. Because I smelled it and the neighbors shot a few. Dad put traps out and it caught one. It wasn't a no spray trap so I approached it with him. Both had tarps. I kept telling him to throw it while I was distracting it bur he got a cramp and only got it over half. The half away from my garden. It's pretty far and down in a field but still. We had talked all morning about how to release it. I offered to drive their dog to take it for a walk so his alcoholic girlfriend wouldn't spiteful put the dog on its run. It wouldn't be sprayed but I made it out like it would ruin my plants. Picked dad up and got him to the bathroom. In that 30 seconds the stupid bitch grabbed the dog and brought it outside despite me YELLING "Can't you wait 5 minutes!? We've been dealing with this all morning. I heard fuck you in my head and she did it anyway. Dog ran at the skunk barking and it sprayed. Not a lot but I was fucking pissed. She's a full blown alcoholic and doesn't like me around early or the fact that my old man's 80 and house is mine. Anyway I got back and there was NO SKUNK SMELL. AT ALL! I WATERED EVERYTHING BUT SHERB PIE AND FED EVERYTHING BUT SHERB PIE. ILL FEED AND WATER THAT TOMORROW. WATERED A GALLON WITH A QUART OF FEED. Researched my strains found out they were all "difficult" to grow. One year ago to the Day I cut my first tenth planet. I got a couple close to a few weeks but the others will be later. If I can pull this off though I'll have some crazy quality! Grateful for what I have that's for sure! I doubled beastie bloom this time. We'll see how it goes.nothings uploading. I did some vids a pictures but I'll have to upload today. 9/7 I think it rained last night. I forgot to water and feed the sherb pie but I'll do it when I get back. I shook off the plants the best I could. I need to get the leaf blower out now and put it to use. Buds are swelling like crazy. GMOs are very tight flowers. Same with the event horizon. Rock hard nugs. With the gmo's I'm not worried. The were monster cropped so they have enough leaves even if some do die off. The toasted toffy only has like four weeks left. Same with the event horizon. The plant in the ten is the furthest behind but it's extremely healthy. I removed some leaves from the bottom and large fan leaves. The plant in the 50 I hope finishes before it loses all its leaves. I treated it with plant doctor and SOME people strip their plants but I don't. I'm grateful for what I've got. Won't be the biggest harvest but WHEN I make it to the finish line I will have some incredibly potent strains. I'm proud of myself to even get these to finish seeingvthe level of difficulty on cultivation. I'm trying to upload some stuff. We'll see. 9/8 Apparently it rained pretty hard last night. Took forever to go through and shake everything off and defoliate what needs it. Sherb pie is praying to the sky and almost totally purple. It's flowering so much more in the last couple days. Everything has. Even the one in the ten is stacking up! I defoliated most of what needed it and I was soaked. I noticed a branch on the middle gmo that was getting heavy and starting to break away from the trunk. It wad wobbly but I don't think there was a break un the Cambrian. I made a sling with rope (couldn't find zip ties) and I pulled it tight amd secured that branch to the tomato cage. GMO buds are hard as rocks. Everything is in overdrive. They liked that beastie bloom. I have cha ching but nothings ready for that yet I don't think. We'll the event horizon and toasted toffy might be I'll have to check. It's been beautiful today but not too hot. Lots of wind which is good. I'll upgrade supports as needed. Flowers are progressing at an amazing rate. Weather is supposed to be great the next few days. I'll keep this updated. 9/9 Had to shake the plants off. WATERED EVERYTHING BUT THE SHERB PIE WHICH WAS REALLY HEAVY. It's also lost a lot of leaves and the majority of leaves have turned purple. Toasted toffy and event horizon and red runts are pretty far into flower. I tried to take some pictures. Even the ten is blowing up! That looks like I'm going to switch to cha ching when flower gets further. Trichs are developing nicely on the ones further in flower. This year it's going to be quality over quantity. All these strains are ranked HARD to grow but have insane cannabinoid profiles and high THC %'s. So if I can keep it together for another month I'll be golden. Looking forward to it. This is the fun part. It's also the anxiety provoking part. I've learned a lot just since joining grow diaries.

Hello everyone week 1 has passed for this Gorilla Cookies auto from Fast Buds 😎 this plant is doing very well growing at fast pace and with a beautiful green colour on the leaves. Spider Farmer SE-7000 50% wish you all happy growing!

Sooo the testers are all looking lovely and healthy sad thing is I cant get them that saturated with nutes but other then that they are doing good. The switch to bloom was easy because of Advanced Bud Blood!

Water ph 6.3-6.8 only flushing

Week 7 Day 43 to 49 of flower I fed them half nute flush water this week. Feed this week was 1.25 gallons 1 time. I used 400ppm Bloom concentrate mix (recipe week 5). However, I also added .5ml/gal of CaliMagic (General Hydroponics 1-0-0) and 7ml of Roots Organics HP2 (Aurora Innovations 0-4-0). PH balance this week was 6.3. Since P2 looked mostly ready to harvest I decided to dry out after the first feed this week. Next week is play by ear week. Currently day 48 I plan to harvest p2 tomorrow and leave p1 for another week. So I will feed p1 once more with the same half nute flush water feed that I used this week then let her dry out again.

8/14 Everything looked beautiful this morning. Seems like I've got the watering schedule down better. I do have one gmo that looks hungry so I need to increase nutes. At least on that plant. Toasted toffy has little spits that could be water marks, pests or septoria. I don't think it's septoria. In the pastvi lost far more leaves when I had septoria. I've been crazy busy. I'm surprised things are going this well. I need to put up the final supports so I can add to them once I've got big heavy buds. I was really stoked to see everything doing so well. The plant in the 50gallon is the furthest in flower. I'm so grateful to have the ability to grow high quality cannabis for myself amd my wife. There's nothing quite like it. That hash I made turned out great. I think I'll press it today. Supports will be done this week. Saw a few aphids on the plant I cut down. Earwigs aren't here this summer or there would be NO aphids. Plus when I cleaned out the insides this morning I found some dead leaves WAY in the middle by the stalk. They would've eaten that shit if they were here. Birds and other predators seem to be keeping pillars at bay. I'm not seeing the damage and when I do sfind one it's absolutely tiny like a newborn. I'll think about whether I need to spray BT. 8/15 That fucking cancel button always fucks everything out. I was done no I need to start over. Didn't water last night. Found pm on my gmo in the 30. Interior of the plant. Should've defoliated better and earlier. Oh well. I'll treat with k bicarb or plant doctor. I'll have to think about it. Other plants are looking good. Well they all are. I just hate pm. I can't isolate it due to local laws so it is what it is. Nothing I haven't dealt with before. Watered today. The middle gmo in the 30 got 1.5 gallons. The other plants each got a gallon. Including the one in the 10gal and 50 gal. Its supposed to rain but only like .1. I also chose to feed today. All plants got a gallon. I DID NOT WATER THE EVENT HORIZON IN THE MIDDLE AND THE SHERB PIE AS THEY WERE PRAYING AND HEAVY. I need to get these supports up. I'll update as I go. Oh and one thing I remembered is that, I didn't properly sanitize the trellis nets I installed on the plant that has pm (non visible today but still). I harvested the plant that used that bet last year was harvested in two stages. The bottom I let go way later and ended up with a little pm on the stuff I left for hash material and it got some pm. I wonder if that's whete this came from. 8/16 Death in the family this morning. I couldn't decide if I should use organocide plant doctor or not. It's a systemic It's been discontinued and reformulated. It's a systemic fungicide. Instead I mixed two tsp potassium bicarbonate with a little dawn in a half gallon mister. I used gloves and defoliated everything that had pm on it. I checked the plants next to it and luckily it hasn't spread yet....but it will. I feel safer using the k bicarb. I'll do more research and try to find the best way to tackle this. I don't want to get rid of the plant and due to local ordinance I can't isolate it. If I can keep it to this one plantvthat would be fine. I'd just use it for extracts. So glad I didn't use all that netting and put up tjosr supports. I'll need to disinfect them if I decide to use them. We'll see. Plants are coming right along flowering. WENT BACK OVER AND DEFOLIATED A BUNCH OF fan leaves and interior stuff to promote airflow. Still saw pm on that plant u had treated earlier with k bicarb. I can't isolate due to laws and I'm not willing to discard this massive monster cropped plant. So I'm going to treat it. I started by removing everything infected and improving airflow on that plant and all the others. I didn't make it to one event horizon. I plan to treat the infected plant with Organocide Plant Doctor since its what I have on hand and I've had good luck. It's a systemic. After I treat the one plant and see that it didn't hurt the plant I'll use a preventative dosage on the other plants. I've battled wpm several times. This is something I'm very familiar with. What sucks is it's totally my fault it happened due to grower error. This has set back me puttingvup my supports as well. Plants look good woth a haircut. Also the toasted toffy had some leaves removed with spots that looked like septoria. I think nutes havecreally kicked things in gear. Now there are little buds on plants. 8/17 BAGS still seemed heavy so I didn't water. It's been MUCH cooler. It's 63 at 9am. It would normally be 80 by now so maybe they aren't using as much water. I watered the the toasted toffy I missed last round but the Sherb Pie still had weight to it. I also watered the GMO on the far side and the one in the 30 as the seemed a little lighter. I looked in and I couldn't find a SPOT of powder mildew on the plant! I know it will come back but on this 100% rh day there isn't a spot I can find! I'm going to go check on them later today. Do some more defoliation and treat the plants with Plant Doctor to try to mitigate the spread of the P.M. Very suprised the k bicarb worked like that. WENT BACK OVER AROUND 11. I WATERED THE TWO THAT DIDNT GET WATERED LAST TIME. THE EVENT HORIZON AND THE SHERB PIE. IT WAS COLD AND OVERCAST. TEMPS HAVE BEEN MUCH COOLER. SOON AS I WATERED THE SUN CAME OHT AND THE TEMP WENT UP. I WENT THROUGH THE PLANTS I MISSED AND SEFOLIATED LEAVES AND INTERIOR BRANCHES TO INCREASE AIRFLOW. SURPRISED TO STILL SEE NO PM WITH 100% HUMIDITY. I WENT THROUGH EVERY PLANT. ILL NEED TO GO TJROUGH AGAIN BUT TJIS IS MUCH BETTER. THE TOASTED TOFFY THAT MAY HAVE SEPTORIA I WILL TREAT TONOGHT WITH PLANT DOCTOR. I REMOVED ANYTHING LOOKING INFECTED. I LSTed THE BIGGEST BRANCHES WITH CLIPS TO THE BAG AMD TWINE. SO AIRFLOW IS MUCH BETTER. I THEN REMOVED A BU CH OF THE MIDDLE. I COULD TAKE MORE BUT ON OUTDOOR HARVESTS THAT LITTLE STUFF GOES IN EXTRACTS. I PUT A FEW HOURS IN TODAY. IM GOING BACK AND ILL TEST THE PLANT DOCTOR ON THE TOASTED TOFFY. BUT IF THE K BICARB WORKS THIS GOOD ILL JUST KEEP USING THAT. 8/18 It started sprinkling when I left this morning. I did more defoliation on a few different plants. Including the healthiest GMO. It seems like things should be further in flower but it is what it is. I'm not doing clones again. Only reason I did is because I lost my 72 seedlings and depleted my seed supply. I hate treating pm. Lost Coast Plant Therapy I'd really whete its at when it comes to treating pm. I might just order that. My commercial buddy told me that he wouldn't use the plant doctor and not to "spray shot all over my plants". He's probably right. I see something small and try to overcurrent. I dont see any more septoria looking leaves on the toasted toffy since I lsted it and removed damaged leaves. I was going to use the fungicide plant doctor on that and then use it ad a preventative. He's probably right. I've put a lot of work in defoliation and such. It WILL spread but it hasn't yet. I removed what I saw. I was going to hit it again with k bicarb but it said it should be weekly treatments.i hope I'm doing things right. I shouldn't be this worried about pm but I've got am anxiety disorder. I'll fully sterilize (AGAIN) my posts and trellis netting before I instal it. I'll probably go check on them later. It's hard to avoid pm with 100% humidity and 30° temp swings. I've got a few lights so maybe this winter I'll do indoor. I'll try to keep this updated. LOOKING BACK AT PRIOR DIARIES I GUESS IM RIGHT WHERE I SHOULD BE FLOWERING WISE. I JUST HAD A COUPLE REALLY EARLY PHENOS A COUPLE TIMES. 8/19 Defoliated some more stuff amd tried to improve airflow. Humidity is high and it was sprinkling earlier. I think we'll have showers. Not seeing much pm. MAYBE a little in the middle of that middle gmo but it could just be residue. I'll treat it again with potassium bicarbonate soon. If that doesn't work I'll switch up treatments. I've got citric acid amd some other stuff too. I almost ordered lost coast last night but decided I'd wait to try it out. The toasted toffy has SOME spots that look like septoria. It's the second furthest in flower and very indica leaning. It seems to be flowering vigorously so I don't want to fuck with it too much. I could use plant doctor on it and see what happens but I'm going to monitor for a few days after defoliating. WENT BACK OVER AROUND 4 AND SHOOK OFFCTHE PLANTS. HADNT RAINED MUCH. BAGS ARE STILL HEAVY. THE TEN WAS LIGHT AND THE EVENT HORIZON BESIDE IT SEEMED A LITTLE LGHT AS WELL. I THINK IT MIGHT BE ME COMPARING THEM TO OTHER PLANTS THAT ARE SATURATED. SEEING HOW THEY BOTH LOOKED THE BEST IVE EVER SEEN THEM I HELD OFF WATERING. ITS ALSO SPRINKL9NG AMD GOING TO RAIN TONIGHT. ILL REASSESS IN THE MORNING. PLANNED ON USING PLANT DOCTOR ON TOASTED TOFFY BUT DECIDED AGAINST IT PARTIALLY DUE TO THE RAIN. PARTIALLY BECAUSE I PUSSED OUT. I WANTED TO FEED. IVE NOTICED SOME FADE AND PLANTS PUSHING AND TRYING TO GET OVER THE FENXE INTO FLOWER. THE TOASTED TOFFY AND THE UNKNOWN IN THE 50 ATE THE FURTHEST ALONG AND DEVELOPING ROCK HARD BUDS. GMO HAS A MASSIVE STRETCH. THINGS CHANGE DAILY. I WANTED TO GET A GOOD DOSE OF NUTES IN SO AFTER THIS LITTLE BIT OF RAIN WHEN WE GET THAT NICE SUNSHINE MY PLANTS WILL TAKE OFF!! THEY'VE BEEN PROGRESSING FAST DESPITE THE SHITTY WEATHER. 8/20 It's still sprinkling. It SAYS WE got zero rain yesterday but that's just not true. Today is supposed to be light showers with like .02 in 9f rain. I mixed up some water to check the plants. I figured a few would he light. The event horizon on the back SEEMED a little light. So did the one invthe ten. I realized it was just comparing it to the bags that were saturated. Still I ended up giving the event horizon in the back a half gallon and split the other half with the one in the 10 that dries out super fast. It's crazy. The weather just abruptly changed one day and I go from watering twice a day to hardly at all! Everything but the sherb pie and the seedling in the 10gal are vigorously flowering. Upping the nutes was a smart move. The seemed to like it. I'm gonna check later and as soon as I can I'll hit that toasted toffy with plant doctor. That's tied for furthest along in flower. I've done a bunch of research and I think this is the right move. I'll keep this updated. After this small patch of shitty weather we are goingvto get some sun amd these girls will EXPLODE! WENT BACK OVER A FEW TIMES. LAST AT SIX. I DID SOME DEFOLIATION AND PRUNING OF PLANT INTERIORS. ITS ABOUT TIME TO TREAT THE TOASTED TOFFY AGAIN WITH PLANT DOCTOR. I CAN SEE SOME SEPTORIA SPOTS. I TREATED THE EVENT HORIZON THIS MORNING. IT GOT A FEW HOURS BEFORE A LITTPE RAIN WND THEN SUNNY AND 80. I USED BETWEEN A QUARTER AND HALF GALLON ON THE INE PLANT. I MAY NOT HAVE USED ENOUGH OF THE MIXED UP SOLUTION ONVTHE TOASTED TOFFY. IT HAD BEEN WORKING AWESOME AND NOW THAT ITS TIME TO REAPPLY I NOTICE A FEW LEAVES THAT LOOK INFECTED. OVER THE NEXT WEEK ILL BE MONITORING THE RESPONS FROM THE PLANT DOCTOR. I'M CONSIDERING APPLYING PLANT DOCTOR TO THE REST OF THE GARDEN. I THIBJ THE K BICARB HAS BEEN DOING GOOD KEEPING THE PM DOWN ON THE MIDDLE GMO. I HATE THAT I HAVE TO FIGHT DISEASES. IM NOT DOING CLONES AGAIN. AND IM GOING TO BE MUCH CLEANER. THE SHERB PIE LOOKS A LITTLE OVERWATERED AND HAS SOME YELLOW LEAVES BUT MANY HAVE TURNED PURPLE AND OTHER FALL COLORS. THE PLANTS ARE AGGRESSIVELY FLOWERING AND TEMPS ARE CHANGING. STILL IN EARLY FLOWER. IVE GOT A GOOD FEELING. IVE DEALT WITH MUCH WORSE AND CAME OUT GOOD.

8/17 Watered everything but the 50. Found two leaves with sep markings on the pink kish in the 50. Definitely not using old soil again. I'm pretty sure THIS plant contracted it from the soil and not the way the others did with the lawn mower and birdseed hijinx. It's supposed to rain for the first time basically all summer. It's am 80% chance so I HELD OFF ON PLANT DOCTOR AND DID NOT APPLY as I'm supposed to have a clear day after. I'll apply the plant doctor in the morning. I'm hoping this rain will knock down a bunch of those thrips. They seem to be on a small branch on a plant or two. One or two leaves show damage and I'll pick them off. I figure I'll get them after I apply plant doctor. I'll use either citric acid or just my regular bt-k pillar treatment with Castille or liquid soap. That will kill them as well. I'm on really worried about it. I also might just buy a bunch of lady bugs and unleash them once things get further along.

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26.05 Cleaned the Tank and changed the water. Beside that nothing special to say about that grow - everything is just beautiful and developing super well. 27.05 Removed some more Fanleaves to provide the lower buds with more light. It's the middle of the blooming stage, since they should be ready within 70-80 days and are actually in day 32 after the light schedule was changed.

Longer warmer days

Hoffe nach den Überraschungen in der letzten Woche verlaüft diese wieder ruhiger. Habe den Leitwert des Drain bei beiden Pflanzen auf ph6 und 2000 microSiemens Ende letzter Wiche reduziert bekommen. Interessanter Weise waren die Leitwerte bei den Pflanzen trotz exakt gleicher Wasser/Düngergabe um den Faktor 2 auseinander. Der ph-wert lag bei beiden bei 4,8 [Warum auch immer]. Hab die Werte durch Spülen mit Leitungswasser und Osmosewassermix mit Leitwert 500 auf die oben beschrieben Werte gebracht und hoffe das die Damen es mir verzeihen und mich trotzdem in 3 Wochen mit reicher und vor allem leckerer Ernte belohnen werden. Gieße jetzt jeden 2Tag, so viel, dass genügend Drain entsteht um die Werte zu kontrollieren. Drain liegt bei Ph ca. 6,0 bei max 2,5mS andernfalls wird mit Osmose oder Leitungswasser (0,8mS und Ph7.2) gegegengehalten. Da sie in Stofftöpfen stehen, ist es hoffentlich nicht so dramatisch etwas zu viel Wasser zu bekommen.

The Blue Zushi stretch has escalated 😅. I really can't raise the lamps any higher. The Blueberry Cheese has barely grown in height and is now about 60 cm away from the lamp. It is also about 7 days behind in development. The Blue Zushi is developing a really nice resin cover during this time I will remove a few fan leaves in the next few days so that the lower flowers get more light. there is already a lot going on in the tent. I have also installed two deep red Adlights from Mars Hydro that I had lying around. I added 40 liters to the autopot tank yesterday, but completely without nutrients. My tap water already contains a lot of calcium by itself

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