Love how she bounced back after being dug out by a pot hound dog and left for dead. I see signs of pre flowers which is always a good sign. She probably could have been taller but this plant is going straight to seed. Skunk pollen awaits.

1 mes de flora. Cogollos dulces todos. De izquierda a derecha se mezclan con, mas dulce, incienso, limoncito dulce, uva.

Flipped these ladies 06 Oct 23 (Friday). After watering 09 Oct 23 (Monday) I walked in and the before SOG photos are what it looked like, I put up the new net and tied a few tops down to spread the canopy out. With the new trellis in place I'm going to let theses ladies rip and add another trellis once they outgrow their current one.

Buds tightened up waiting on small wave of amber tricks 10 to 15% amber is guchie for me

purrrrrrrrdy 😍 the scrog turned out beautifully, we are about 10 days into flower! can see the lady parts and the stretch is well under way. the plants are all very healthy and growing vigorously. I did a big manicure yesterday, the pics are one day after manicure. for now the plants have blended into one nice canopy but soon the flowers will distinguish the plants. overall a great week!!! for next weeks update the flowers should be starting to form 😋

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

4/15/25 This plant is blowing my freaking mind. Long stacked colas. Even the lower buds are plumping up like golf balls. This is an exceptional plant so far. Shes starting to show the classic "sherbert" purple that ive noticed shows up with anything that has sunset sherbert in the lineage. Some of the leaves are starting to fade slightly and the purple is coming in. The rs11 that this seed came from, produced the most from a single plant out of all plants ive grown and trained and kept that small. She yielded 3.5 ounces or a 1/4lb of top nugs from a plant that was only about 18 inches tall and vegged for 6 weeks before flip. Once i start to clear out all of the fan leaves later on in flower, its just going to be buds running the length of the stems 4/18/25 I really believe this may be a keeper. She is absolutely stunning. Just everything is perfect. She has super long stacking of buds up and down the stems. Im actually super stoked to see how she finishes up. One of the craziest parts is that shes in a plastic 2 or 3 gallon pot and this plant is going to yield insane.

Prima settimana di fioritura... tutto procede come deve .. 💪 forza belle piantine mie regalatemi della Apple strudel buona ed efficace per la mia cura🙏✌️

7 неделя. Появился сильный запах. пока все идет нормально. с этой недели буду поливать обильнее.. и чаще.

Just a quick vid up this week

Friday, january29th. Thats Fun.. so much Fun to see them they are entering Week 5 of Flower Both sopped stretching, and reaching the Stage of Bud Bulking The right Plant is abolutely crazy shes 120cm high and showing wonderful upstacking buds The left one is wonderful shaped, is fresh and green and buds are swelling to iam very Pleased with these Girls Next Week we are going to make aPhotoshoot

Day 76. Another week to go

Base 75 lt acqua demineralizzata (ec 80); Aggiungiamo: 37.5 grow 37.5 micro 37.5 bloom 30 ml tarantula 30 ml voodo juice. Ottenendo ec 474 ph 6.5 Iniziamo questo nuovo ciclo non partendo da seme come sempre, ma partendo da un ottima talea giá radicata, fatta da un nostro amico agricoltore. Ci aggiorneremo settimanalmente al solito, vedremo i cambiamenti e aggiornamenti settimana dopo settimana. Buon anno nuovo a tutti!! E buona coltivazione!!!!

hello guys some news on the flowering day 49 She is fine and is the last week of fertilizer normally. next week flush with water harvest soon. 😀

April 27: start of week 3 (day 15) i pick off fanleaves here and there not all at once, one last heavy defoliation at the end of the week The cannopy is 40cm deep and 80cm diagonal

Last week before flowering 😊😄😝 The plants did an excellent job last week. The repotting to the large pots has done them well. 👍 I have watered the plants 3 times now. First two times 5 liters of water, containing 1 tablet of RQS Easy Grow Booster. The third time 1.5 tablet for 5 liters of water. Mind ! It takes a while before the tablets are dissolved! 😹 The color of the new leaves is beautifully green. The VPD is now also perfect most of the time with a value of 1.0 👌 For that I had to increase the relative humidity to almost 70%. 😭 I attached the larger plants to the plantsticks with a plastic binding strip. In this way I pull the plants to the same height as the smaller plants. Hopefully this results in a nice flat canopy. The lower branches may develop faster now, but I will remove them later. 👽 The plants now get 18 hours of light instead of 24 hours, so the shock is a little less when they go to 12/12. 🙏

Day 69 (March 6th) Just gave everyone their last watering. I’m going to harvest and wash everything tomorrow night on day 70. I‘m not going to do that whole 48 hours of darkness thing because I didn’t see a difference last time I did it. In fact, it made my plant under watered before drying which caused it to dry too fast. Slurricane and cheese will be washed with h2o2 and the rest will just be rinsed off in warm RO water and hung up. Before and after washing I’m going to go over each branch with a flashlight and make sure there is no dog hair or debris in or on the buds. I will be drying in my spare bathroom (that no one uses!) from hangers. Aiming to keep it around 60-62F and 50-60 RH. Hoping for that 10-12 day dry. I wanted to do a full plant hang but the tent got pretty dirty and I would feel more comfortable just cutting and rinsing everything off branch by branch. I’m going to try my best to keep the full plant intact. Got my humidifier hooked up and running RO water because with tap water it deposits calcium and lime all over the buds and walls. For air flow I’m just indirectly running a small usb fan. I’m not worried about air flow in the bathroom honestly. It stays nice and breezy down there anyway. Got the food grade peroxide and RO water to wash up the slurricane and cheese. Everything except for the cheese and garlic#1 is looking more than done. Trichomes all look pretty well done. Some of them have even burst open. Smells are all super ripe and mature too. Can’t wait to smell each individually in jars. Next week I will recap what went wrong and what I will do differently next time to keep it from happening again. (Day 70F) Just got everything chopped, washed and hanging. The vast majority of the PM was washed out but I can still see very small amounts. When they dry out I can shake the branches a bit to get the rest off. At very least it’s sterile now. There is no question I lost some potency while washing but the amount is negligible for a much cleaner product. I could see lots of dirt and other debris float to the surface of the water after being washed. And no those are not trichomes, those sink to the bottom. I could put that nasty water through a bubble bag and wouldn’t get all that much. Although it probably does remove a lot of the actual trichomes heads. I’ll have to check with the microscope. Everything is rigged up for a nice slow dry. Temp is sitting at 64 and RH is at a nice 60%.

Today is day 11 of flower. Thanks for looking happy growing.