📆 Semana 7: La Candy Bubatz XL avanza con fuerza en floración. Los cogollos se densifican y brillan con una capa creciente de tricomas, mientras el aroma dulce se vuelve más penetrante. La estructura sigue firme y la planta responde bien al plan de riego y nutrición, sin mostrar carencias ni estrés. ¡Seguimos creciendo fuerte! 💪

2020-08-17 Beginning of Week 9 of flowering! Wow! The buds in the middle are getting super frosty now and I noticed that I had some colas that had dipped below the light canopy. They're now back up on top! I am still giving nutrients as I don't see many amber trichomes yet but I am going into the tent without the LEDs on to take some more updated pics. Don't wanna miss my window as I prefer to be stimulated instead of sedated by cannabis. Hoping this strain delivers. IF anyone wants to comment on the 'readiness' of my buds for flushing (or not flushing) please leave a comment or message me! 2020-08-23 Updated with this week's entire set of pics! Trying to take more with the lights off and just the flash to capture the trichomes. Looks like the sugar leaves have more amber trichomes. I've been advised by at least one person that it's time to harvest. Still looking for more opinions! Cheers.

Dans l'ordre: 1) Afghan Peach x Blue Monkey 2) Gelato Cake 3) Fast Critical Poison 4) Tropical Fuel 5) Hindu Kush 6) (Blueberry x Black Domina) X (Kosher Kush x Mk-Ultra) 7) Blueberry 8) Herz OG 9) (Blueberry x Black Domina) X (Kosher Kush x Mk-Ultra)

Very excited to start a new grow!! 21/11/2023: Placed the seed in a wet paper towel inside a zip lock bag and put it on the inside of the cabinet. Whilst this is germinating I can setup and clean my tent and get the substrate ready. This will be my first time using Biotabs nutrients and also the first time I won't be using the hydroponic DWC method. Hoping for yet another great grow and tasty end result! 25/11/2023: Transfered seedling to coco medium which I prepared with Bio Tabs nutrients. Soaked the medium with Orgatrex and Bactrex disolved in tap water. Set the light schedule to 18/6 27/11/2023: Added some more water with nutrients because the medium felt dry. Might have overwatered a bit since a lot of water ended up in the bottom tray. I'll let it dry out a bit the next days before adding water again.

they growing healthy, up to the light! 😎 nothing interesting yet... Healthy and evolving plants 😍 added some nettle solution 😅 organic 😋 probably will grow very vigorous until the next next 2 weeks, hope i won't have any problems with them 💪 see you soon!

Greetings fellow growers 🖖 and welcome to my first grow ever. This adventure actually started several months ago when I decided to stop buying flower from dispensaries and just grow my own bud. How hard can it be!? This is actually my second seed of this strain. The first bean sadly died due to over watering (sorry girl, RIP). I was literally watering the cube to the point where water was dripping from the bottom, then heavily sprayed the humidity dome and tray with the vents completely closed. Everyday. Multiple times. I never let the dome or try dry out. So after about 8 days of not sprouting, there was a funky smell of rot. So that was that. Later I learned that rockwool retains a lot of water and can easily drown seeds. So a wet/dry cycle is best for rockwool germination. So even after hours of researching and digging through forums and tutorial videos, I was still under prepared for this journey. Did not consider how delicate the germination phase is. Oh well. Lesson learned. Reset and try again! I hope everyone is safe and stoned during this corona crisis. Just like everyone else in the world, I want this pandemic to be over with. But in the meantime, let's grow some weed! 🖖 [START OF WEEK 01] Day 01 - Monday - 08/03/20 - Total Days: 001 ----------------------------------- - [0830]: Light Schedule: 24Hrs/0 --- Soaked cube in 5.5 PH water for 10 min. Did not shake water out. --- NO NUTES! Only PH'd down to control the PH levels. --- Did not use the default hole (way too deep). --- Flipped cube upside down and made a shallow hole for the seed (less than 0.25" deep). --- Placed seed in and pinched hole close. No additional water added. --- Sprayed the tray and dome with straight water (5.5 PH). --- Vents are cracked opened a for ventilation (about 1/4 opened each). --- Distance between the light and tray was 53" --- AC was set to 80 °F --- Exhaust fan was set to 86 °F --- Room average temp was at 85 °F --- Dome humidity was at 85-99% when sprayed. --- Allowing to completely dry before respraying. - [2200]: Dome and tray were completely dry! Sprayed only tray and dome with more water. Day 02 - Tuesday - 08/04/20 - Total Days: 002 ----------------------------------- - [0845]: Sprayed dome and tray in the morning. Everything was dry. --- Hoping for the best! - [2130]: Everything was dry again, so sprayed dome and tray at night along with a light spray on the cube. Day 03 - Wednesday - 08/05/20 - Total Days: 003 ----------------------------------- - [0830]: Everything was dry again. Resprayed dome and tray. Slightly sprayed cube. - [2125]: Hooo damn!! She popped! Am little stub is visible! Resprayed dome and tray again. --- Still going 24/0 for lights. - [+0033]: Just checked up on her and I swear she grew a bit taller! Getting excited! Day 04 - Thursday - 08/06/20 - Total Days: 004 ----------------------------------- - [0845]: Wow! Went from a little stub to fully sprouted overnight! Everything was pretty dry again so resprayed dome and tray. - [2200]: Tap root is visible! Over 1" long too! Just resprayed dome and tray again. -- Going to prep for hydroton transplant tomorrow! Day 05 - Friday - 08/07/20 - Total Days: 005 ----------------------------------- - [0930]: She keeps growing! -- Added a bit of CalMag to the spray bottle (8 drops to 650ml of distilled water). Resprayed dome and tray. Water was at a 5.4 PH with 141 PPM. - [1045]: Prepped the bubble bucket with 4.5gal of water. Water is high enough to reach about 0.25" above the bottom of the net pot. --- Added 3 drops of Superthrive --- Added 3.5ml of CaliMagic --- Added 2ml Hydroguard --- Then PH'd down to 5.6 --- Solution Strengh: 120 PPM --- Water chiller is set to 20 °C - [1100]: Transplant time! --- Filled the net basket 1/3 with hydroton. When placed in the bucket, air bubbles are not visible, but are slightly below the surface (slight digging will reveal the water/bubbles below). --- Removed plastic on rockwool cube and placed in basket, then filled around and covered with hydroton. Making sure to block any light from passing through the net pot and into the nutrient solution. --- Covered with a half-bottle dome sprayed with the CalMag water from earlier. --- Hoping for the best! - [1300]: Raised Bucket 5" higher. Now light distance is 48" to top of bucket. - [1820]: Lowered tent exhaust temp to 76 °F --- Lowered AC to 75 °F --- Raised bucket even higher so light distance is 30" to top of bucket. - [2300]: Looking good! --- Sprayed dome and surrounding hydroton with more CalMag water. --- Attached timer to light! So new 18 Hrs On/6 Hrs Off light schedule. --- Lights On: [1600] (4pm) --- Lights Off: [+1000] (10am the next day) --- Decided to go with lights on during the evening/night and off during the later mornings/afternoon (the hottest part of the day) to see if temps can be controlled better. --- Please survive girl! Day 06 - Saturday - 08/08/20 - Total Days: 006 ----------------------------------- - [0800]: Everything was dry. Resprayed hydroton and dome. - [2000]: Here first night cycle seemed to go well! Get'n taller! --- Dry again. Removed the dome. --- PH went up to 6.5 so PH'd down to 5.7 --- Ran the top feed drip ring for a bout a minute to wet the hydroton and rockwool with the nutient solution. ---Too scared to leave the top feed on 24hrs (I don't want over water her and cause dampening-off). Will let dry before re-watering. - [2100]: After closer inspection, I think she's looking a bit yellow. --- Decided to add a bit of grow nutes to the bubbler solution. --- Added 2ml of Sensi Grow A --- Added 2ml of Sensi Grow B --- Solution strength after adding more nutes: 176 PPM --- PH went up to 6 --- I hope that the extra chelating properties of the 'PH Perfect' solution is enough of a buffer for proper nutrient uptake. Day 07 - Sunday - 08/09/20 - Total Days: 007 ----------------------------------- - [0800]: Water dropped a bit (mostly due to evaporation) so solution strength was at 190. --- Checked PH again. Was still at 6, so PH'd down to 5.4 --- Ran the top feed for a minute to wet the hydroton a bit. - [0915]: Since she's looking perky but still a bit yellow. So decided to up the nutrient concentration even more before lights out. --- Added 2ml more of Sensi Grow A --- Added 2ml more of Sensi Grow B --- Solution strength after adding more nutes: 199 PPM --- PH went up to 5.8 - [1700]: Checked nutrients. --- PH: 5.9 --- Solution strength: 202 PPM --- Added 4ml of Voodoo Juice --- Added 4ml of B-52 --- PH after adding more nutes: 5.9 --- Solution strength after adding more nutes: 238 PPM - [2130]: Decided to make a new foliar spray to address the continued yellowing. --- Started with 500ml of distilled water. --- Added 3 drops of CaliMagic --- Added 3 drops of Sensi Grow A --- Added 3 drops of Sensi Grow B --- Added 3 drops of B-52 --- Added 1 drop of Superthrive --- Solution strength: 164 PPM --- PH was at 5.9 and did not adjust. --- Gave her one spray. --- Also sprayed the surrounding hydroton. [END OF WEEK 01]

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She is starting to chunk up now. I'm doing the same fertilizer routine as last week.

Ended up flushing Mumma for about 10 days - got her ppm down real low. Night before harvest I set the timer so the light would not come back on in the morning before I harvested (I've seen people who swear by this and other who say it doesn't do anything but figured it couldn't hurt). At this point the other plants are pretty disappointing compared to Mumma so they aren't getting as much "love" lol.

Everything is good without any problems for now. One plant seems like the leafs are sightly burned 😰 but it did'n get worse in past few days and it grows healthy so i think it will look better next week 💪 Today is day 7 of the plants, yesterday i transplanted them into the main 15 liters pot with organic soil mix 👌 Today i also added some Voodoo Juice from AN to help the roots involve. They say it is good for organic gardens and i got it from one of my past grow. Stay Blessed with sacred plants 🙏 May start some new diary with different seeds, but same growroom soon 👋 I almost forgot, my photoperiod is 12-1 thats why my plants have only 13 hours of light every 24 hours. For me it worked perfect in the past, if you want to read more about this photoperiod https://theweedbusiness.com/12-1-method/ here is some short explanation. Less energy waste 🙌 and organic product is a different level for me 😁

I'm already assuming we'll have a longer flowering period. The Gorilla Cookies has grown so huge that it will definitely need more time. So we'll certainly repeat the 4th week of fertilization. Before that, it will get week 3 of the master recipe from Advanced Nutrients.

Start of week 7. Week 6 went well, however this girl also required and extra 2 liters of feed on day 6 of week 6. She has packed on weight and she is incredibly sticky, with a nice sweet smell.

Rikos olores frutales y florales Falto parte de. La. Vegeta fue. Largan1mes1/2 deje que fuéra asi son regulares deje que se. Expresara sexo para asegurarme de los rasgos femininos, solo se. Expreso pre flora 1 macho considerado hembra resto 90 se. Mantuvieron femeninas, primer canopy ny a. Mejorar la. Tecnica Receta propia de super suelo

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

These girls are mostly doing amazing I had an issue where my pup came in to the greenhouse and lollipopped my GG4 but she stayed alive.

Can’t wait to try this cultivar, I loved both her moms obviously or I wouldn’t have made her so I’ll be back with a smoke report soon and in a few weeks another for her sisters

Hey growmies girls looking amazing. They have grown immensely 😎💪❤️ They really hungry so today imma feed them some good nutrition. They are all responding really good to the sp 6500 💪💪💪 If you are interested in this led come check her out on MH site 👉 😀https://marshydro.eu/products/mars-hydro-sp-6500-led-grow-light/ SP6500, as one of the huge single bar LED grow lights, installed with top quality Samsung LM301B diodes, designed with enhanced red in broad-spectrum light, emits the highest central PPF and has the superb penetration that its major applications are for high-wire plants and greenhouses. Wattage – 650w Veg Coverage – 4×5 ft Flower Coverage – 3×5 ft Featuring a thick aluminium passive heat sink and densely arranged chips, the SP Series provides high efficacy but low heat output while minimizing obstruction to natural light.