lowered the ionbeam lights and adjusted all lighting to get even 20k lux everywhere.

Everything going as planned. Will take more pictures soon.day 85(getting phatter)

She is not a happy camper at the moment, yes I drowned nearly all my plants trying to figure it out the drip system frequency/quantity :] learning curve She is now recovering from transplanting from Solo cup to 3gal pot, roots look nice and healthy. If you have a suggestion, or you're seeing something I'm missing please let me know! Thats it for now, stay lit folks 😎

Super stoked on my fastbuds420 run This one has been absolutely one of my favorites💯

Gorilla Runtz Seedsman Day 98 Day 50 flower 4.11.25 Day 100 Fresh Reservoir change out today. 2 gals of water and 11 grams of Floraflex Full Till. Also took some fan leaves out.

Hello everyone, The girls are finally outside in 20 gallon fabric pots. This season I have a greenhouse for them and I hope it goes good. Still have to build the first cages around them and start stretching them. 🎊🎉 finally, summer is here 🎉🎊 See you guys next week 🤞🤞🤘🤘👊👊👊

She’s in pre flower stage at week 4- the cold, windy, hot, and everything in between has probably forced her a bit early- Raining the past few days and overcast. Looks nice though and she shot up in height!

I had a lot of fun with this strain and it was grown against 400 growers so let me say PHENO hunting is a true thing. Overall the Bud was a nice dense structure and the smoke on it was smooth and the high nice and even.

Gestern Abend habe ich ein DIY CO2 System installiert, konnte aber kaum CO2 messen. Ich bin mir sicher das Gas austritt und auch im Umlauf in der Box ist, doch die gewünschte Dosierung von über 1200ppm scheint für mich unerreichbar :D Tag 17: Ich vermute, auch wegen den Messwerten, das das nichts mit dem Hinzufügen von CO2 zu tun haben kann, aber Heute konnte ich erheblichen Zuwachs im vergleich zu Gestern feststellen. Aktuell wachsen die Pflanzen Horizontal. Bisher habe ich jeden 3. Tag begossen, heute wäre eigentlich wieder Zeit zum Gießen aber da die Erde, nach Messen, reichlich Feuchtigkeit enthält, werde ich dies Heute auslassen und auf Morgen verschieben. Ich denke das die Zeit des Trainierens sich gezeigt hat und mache mich derzeit via Videos Schlau. Was denkt Ihr, wann und welche Methode(n) sollte ich anwenden? An Tag 20 wurde der G13 und White Widow LST angewendet. Blätter und Triebe die kein Licht abbekamen wurden abgeschnitten. Die Amnesia Haze Auto wurde getoppt und auch hier wurden Blätter entfernt. Für die hilfreichen Kommentare bedanke ich mich im voraus.

6 October 1 nice 1 ok

Sour wiz came out amazing. Not many problems during her grow. Each pheno came out really different but that’s from my doing. I trained each plant differently to see what the difference would be. Responds really well to stress and training. I can’t tell you in words how great the flowers are. They’re literally coated in trichomes and smell and taste so damn good. Fruity sweet gasoline. Enjoy and thanks everyone who looks and follows.0

They are starting to fatten up really nice and the flush will start today July 2nd 2023 on to my next adventure with fastbuds northern lights and jack see the progresss. So today is July fifth they are starting to really gain their weight I started watering them with 55-59 degree water to help it feel like it’s the end of the season. Will be chopping on the 7th! The trichomes in them all is unbelievable can’t wait to taste them will be curing in the cannatrol for the first time see how much of a difference that makes.

Week 7 for 9lb Hammer F2, Have finally starter pulling them side ways. Its been raining all week not much to report. Haven't had to water anything.😂 Hoping to see what training her will do.

Great week...pistols are turning, buds are fattening, what else can a guy ask for.

It has been another amazing week of the plants growing. I have been watching as the Fruity Freak leaves become progressively more fern-like, and ornamental as a result! Based on my Banizzle grows, I knew I needed to understand plant nutrients in a more meaningful way if I wanted these plants to thrive. So, I decided to get a soil test (see Ref. 1 below on how to perform a test) to understand what nutrients my plants needed. The report I received advised that I needed to add 200 lbs/acre of nitrogen, 150 lbs/acre of phosphorus, and 190 lbs/acre of potassium (see picture labeled Pic.1 (FYI you can't see these images unless you login to growdiaries)). I then researched what to do with my results (Ref. 2 helped), and I figured out that my nutrient needs of 200-150-190 fall close to a 2-1-2 ratio. I then looked at different types of organic fertilizers (see Ref. 3 and Ref. 4) and considered that I already had a 3-10-5 fertilizer (Vermibloom) on hand. I discovered Dr Earth’s Alfalfa Meal is 2-1-2 and includes beneficial bacteria and mycorrhizae (to promote healthy plant growth and disease resistance). However, I knew I would be low on nitrogen if I only used those two fertilizers. Therefore, I decided to buy some blood meal (12-0-0). I also liked that blood meal is more fast acting while the other two are more moderate. I hunted around for a solid fertilizer calculator and found an amazing tool from the University of Georgia Extension (Ref. 5). I entered all three fertilizers into the calculator, and it kicked out the exact amount of each fertilizer I needed to apply to 1 square foot (see Pic. 2). As I am using 10-gallon fabric pots (that can hold 1.5 cubic feet, but I put stone on the bottom and there’s space left at the top) I decided to use the one square foot application rate as I can always add more later, but I can’t take it away. Not only did I want to understand the nutrients I needed, but I also wanted to understand the structure of the soil (as it was not included in my test results). North Dakota State University has a nice page that discusses this (Ref. 6), and I performed a soil ribbon test (see Video 1) based on this information. I determined my soil to be medium textured (which is great), but I have seen occasional water pooling on the surface, suggesting that it may be more of a medium-fine. This means adding peat moss, coco coir, or other amendments might improve drainage (and plant hydration) and allow for roots to grow more easily. In the long run, I plan to use compost to enhance the soil structure and nutrients. I filled the bottom of my 10-gallon fabric pots with a ½” of pea stone to allow for drainage (Pic. 3). I then partially filled two 5-gallon buckets with topsoil from near where I will plant (but not in an area the roots will reach). I used a digital scale to measure the amount of fertilizers recommended by the calculator (Pic. 4, 5, and 6) and added it to one of the 5-gallon buckets (see Pic. 7). I mixed the fertilizers into the soil as evenly as possible (Pic. 8 and 9). I then poured a two-inch layer of non-fertilized soil, then peat moss, and then fertilized soil (in a roughly 2:1:1 ratio) and blended them together. I repeated this until the pot was full (getting additional soil as needed), and then I repeated the process for the other three pots. I set the filled fabric pots in my garage (Pic. 10) for two days to allow any upset bugs to flee into my garage instead of my house. I then moved the pots (wrapping them in a contractor garbage bag to prevent making a mess) into the room with the grow light. I placed a board on top of the fabric pots to insulate the plants (in their smaller pots) from the cold soil (Pic. 11). Once the soil in the fabric pots reaches room temperature, I will transplant. (Ref. 1) This video shows the method I used to take a soil sample. I didn’t have a field to test, so I took four samples from the area where I will eventually plant outdoors and blended them together. I then mailed my soil sample off to the lab, and about a week later, I received an email with a PDF of my results (included with my pictures this week). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9AwxmFxBwg&t=8s (Ref. 2) This video from the University of Minnesota Extension (many universities have agriculture extensions that can assist you with soil testing and growing information for your area) discusses what to do with your soil testing results: https://youtu.be/HYrkcfE62Pg (Ref. 3) This is a nice article that discusses organic fertilizer solutions: https://www.grow-it-organically.com/npk-fertilizer.html (Ref. 4) This article lists the NPK values of many organic fertilizer solutions: https://www.epicgardening.com/organic-fertilizers/ (Ref. 5) Many websites tout a fertilizer calculator…but this one is hands down the best I have found. If you scroll down to the bottom, you can enter any fertilizer type you want (and the cost, if you want). It will give you the exact blend of multiple fertilizers to solve your nutrient deficiencies (I included a snapshot of the solution I used in my pictures). https://aesl.ces.uga.edu/soil/fertcalc/ (Ref. 6) This is an excellent article that discusses how to evaluate your soil: https://www.ndsu.edu/agriculture/extension/publications/evaluating-preparing-and-amending-lawn-and-garden-soil

Wedding Cheesecake and Orange Sherbet start flushing