Una settimana colma di cambiamenti, é incredibile come le piante senza nessun tipo di training si adattino perfettamente tra di loro allo spazio circostante, quanti sensori possiedono le piante? Come comunicano tra di loro? mi ha sempre affascinato...

In der vergangenen Woche zeigte die Chocomint OG die ersten eindeutigen Blüteanzeichen. Parallel dazu traten jedoch deutliche Nährstoffprobleme auf. Mehrere Blätter zeigen zwischen den Blattadern nekrotische, bräunliche Gewebeschäden. Das Schadbild erinnert auf den ersten Blick an einen Magnesiummangel, unterscheidet sich jedoch klar durch das Fehlen typischer interveinaler Aufhellungen. Stattdessen handelt es sich um echte Gewebeverbrennungen. Auf Basis des Verlaufs und der bisherigen Düngemaßnahmen gehe ich von keinem Magnesiummangel aus. Wahrscheinlicher ist eine Kalium-Blockade. Diese dürfte durch eine zuvor erhöhte CalMag-Gabe entstanden sein, die zur Korrektur des Ca/Mg-Verhältnisses im ungebufferten Kokosanteil des Substrats eingesetzt wurde. Das Coco hat initial Calcium und Magnesium stark gebunden, was nun zu einer Überkompensation geführt haben könnte. Ähnliche Symptome traten bereits zu Beginn des Grows als klassische CalMag-Verbrennungen auf. Aktuell gehe ich davon aus, dass das Überschussverhältnis von Ca/Mg die Kaliumaufnahme hemmt und dadurch sekundäre Mangelsymptome bzw. Verbrennungen verursacht. Weitere Maßnahmen zielen nun darauf ab, das Nährstoffverhältnis zu stabilisieren und Blockaden schrittweise zu lösen, dazu gieße ich nun weiter ohne cal/mag und lasse etwas drain ablaufen.

-private Problems-

Я не парюсь когда гровлю и стараюсь идти легкими путями, у меня нет PH, PPM измерений и множество допущений но мне так легче, буду рад вашим обоснованным советам! :) 03/13 4 семечки (3 Auto Green Crack and 1 Auto Brooklyn Sunrise) в стакан с водой на сутки. 03/14 Спустя сутки появились корешки у 2/4 семян, все 4 посадил в простую почву. 03/16 Germination (Auto Green Crack and Brooklyn Sunrise) 03/17 После прорастания в течении недели без удобрений 1 seed Auto Lowryder кинул в воду на сутки, завтра будет высадка 1-2 недели оставлю свет 24/0 для стремительного роста, а затем 20/4 и 18/6 03/18 Посадил Auto Lowryder в землю 3 ростка Green Crack and Brooklyn Sunrise без дефектов на этом этапе. Раньше не практиковал 24/0 не особо понимаю нужно ли выключать свет чтобы растения отдыхали : / и вообще есть ли смысл тратить электричество Свет 6 led lamp 5x10w 6500k; 1x14.5w 2700k. 03/21 Germinaton day (Auto Lowryder) Добавил света, теперь 111w 10 lamp: 5x10w 6500k; 1x12w 6000k; 2 fluo 10w 5000k; 2x14.5w 2700k 03/23 Росток Auto Lowryder без дефектов Начиная с сегодня я буду сокращать световой день на 30 минут пока не достигну 18/6 Недельные ростки GC and BS завтра начну приучать к удобрениям 03/27 Росток Auto Lowryder имеет желтоватые кончики первых листьев и маленькие пятна как будто сухие участки их плохо видно на изображении Впрочем думаю не критично и развивается он похожим образом как и другие ростки

Gorila Zkittles Avto end Gorila Cookies FF

These buds turned out pretty good. Not a whole lot of bud but this was my first grow in the past 2 years. I’m very happy with each strain and how they turned out. The “OG” was definitely a lot more sativa than any of my other strains. Which I didn’t like because naming a strain OG is an indicator of strong indica dominance. But this strain was definitely more sativa. It was actually funny. My “sativa strain” finished earlier than my OG strain. But this is what I get for just getting seeds of the streets to grow. Which is why I’m very excited to be growing the tropic moon by ocean grown seeds. This strain is already doing great. I germinated 3 seeds and all 3 popped and are doing great. Check out my other grow journals if you want to see the progress on my next grow. Thanks for tuning in everyone. I really appreciate all the support and good vibes from everyone. ✌️

The flowers are stackiiiiing Its hard to show on camera because all the frost is reflecting but these floweres are purple just beautifull

Tested the pH of the runoff and saw that it was 5.0 so I continued to water the plant while using a small dose of a liquid nutes until I had a runoff of 6.3. I did some LST for the last time just to increase the light to some of the inner bud sites. Also did a bit of defoliation

The canvas can do miracles, just you wait and see

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Started giving full strength nutrients and added big bud and bud candy at this point. Dropped my room temperature slightly. Been having a bit of an issue with room humidity and I’m too cheap to buy another dehumidifier so I added a second fan to keep everything dry. Starting to get a nice purple on one of the plants too :) Also have some orange sherbet autos going in the back of check my other diaries :)

Really boring week, nothing changed, nothing exciting happened, just food and water. There's some really nice purples coming through the flower right now and I can make out the tell tale signs of the cookies on both phenos, they may not look the same but the smell coming of both plants is identical..

🤠🌱

So i have decided to harvest tomorrow so this will be my last update of the flowering period of my grow. She's looking like Autumn and has such beautiful colours and extremely strong and fruity scent. i cant wait to try her, i probably could have waited a little longer but considering she was supposed to be an auto and seed to harvest in 10-12 weeks, i think i've done well waiting this long lol. All of the Trichomes are cloudy so i'm up for trying the more energetic heady high, that is supposed to come with harvesting at this stage.

Flushing begins for the super lemon haze! She has dense heavy buds, even though they are not huge in size. Buds are very sticky, covered in trics and will definitely be ready for harvest in 7 more days.

So far so good. A little discoloration in a few leaves. Bud sites forming. Weird weather we've been having and temps in the box jumped up into the 90's. That being said I went ahead and made the switch to LED. Wish I would have switched sooner. Temps fell almost 20F. Sure some has to so with the outside temps dropping back down but this thing runs so cool. Great light penetration but not sure if the intensity is enough. Time will tell. She pretty much stopped eating and drinking. I read that prior to flowering they will slow down overall uptake and slow down growth as well. I don't quite remember that from my last grow but I do remember there being a huge flowering stretch. I'm switching over to bloom nutes next week after a flush so hopefully she'll get the nutes she needs/wants.