Ended up pulling about 65 grams from Top Gun2, another 55 from the Top Gun1 I harvested earlier, fun grow, I was lazy with this diary as I was more excited for gorilla cookies, I’ll try to keep to one diary from now.

week 9 and LOOK AT THAT !! 😄 Im in love with her perfume, the smell is amazing and she is growing by the biggest autos i have ever seen, unfortunatly as you guys can see im running out of space in the 5x5, but thats what it is, super confident i will have a huge yeild from this tent. see you later, give a like and comment, tks 😎

Day 57, very happy so far, plants are just taking everything they get, a very easy strain to grow. Added Bud Explosion this week as flower has kicked in, really looking forward to the next month as temps drop in my part of the world. Thinking of letting temps be a little cooler in grow area as they seem to enjoy it. Thanks to those who comment I enjoy hearing from other fellow growers, learning new things and becoming better at growing this magnificent plant. Happy growing ✌️

HELLO ALL, I HAVE ONE OF MY PLANT WHICH LOOKS LIKE READY TO HARVEST, SHOULD I CUT HER NOW ?? Day74 Based on all advises I had, I will let them another 2 weeks

Feb. 17 Ph 7.5 Moist - plucked all the bad leaves that were ready - Removed all the dead leaves - 3 gal of water ph of 6.4 + 15 ml big bloom + 20 ml tiger bloom + 9ml apple cider vinegar + 30ml blackstrap molasses unsulphured - Light burn seems to be the #1 problem, then ph fluctuations and nutrient burn - I think i held the measuring cup a little awkward most feedings instead of having it on a level surface and I probably overfed by 5ml each time - Most of the bottom leaves are green but have burnt tips, they are usually pretty attached - the middle section has lots of dead leaves but they are tiny little ones that have burnt and fallen off - the top leaves are all yellow on plant 1, with burnt tips, clawing up, very red stems, and are fairly easy to pluck off, not much effort on most - the most green areas are semi-shaded and off on the edges of the tent, and all the shaded areas remained green - Therefore, I would say my #1 problem was light burn, which made the ph fluctuations worse, nutrient deficiencies worse, and i over compensated and did not measure precisely causing nutrient burn - there is also some wind burn on the bottom areas - all in all the buds are developing nicely and bulking up decent amounts on plant 1, especially with all the topping - good trichomes coming out - plant 2 has different light burn but the leaves are praying up, and pointing up much more, more rusting also but they are not easy at all to pull off - the buds on plant 2 are also not growing nearly as well but the trichomes seem nicer and it seems to have more - the buds hopefully are more dense despite being small, they do look compact though - roughly 100 bud sites visible from the top of the canopy feb. 18 - ph. 7.2 - the clawing up and yellowing and burning of the tips has continued, likely past problems continuing to persist - these problems really only exist on the top set of leaves, which always brings me back to light burn - plucked another 10-15 clawed and burnt leaves from plant 1 - the buds got bigger, and the trichomes continue to pack on - seeing more promising growth/ recovery from plant 2 - trichomes appear to be quite clear, no signs of amber - The crop king seeds guide suggests 8 weeks of flowering time, we are a couple days into week 7 right now but the pistils are still about 60% white and somewhat straight, and the trichomes are quite clear. This would lead me to believe about 2 full weeks is left and likely closer to 2.5 weeks. - Trying to plan out my flush, leaving me a full 7-10 days to have the plants finish their nutrients, that flush would best occur at the mid point next week - I am expecting the trichomes to be cloudy by mid week 8, around feb. 25, I would flush them, and look to harvest 7-10 days later, around mar. 4-8 feb. 19 - ph 6.8 - moist - definitely bulked up more, plant 2 is back and growing strong, damage on top canopy continues to burn and curl, yellowing a growing splotchy brown spots, but I am very confident that this is past damage from light burn which has since been fixed by dropping the watts down by 140 - more pistils are going orange feb. 20 - buds fatting up really nice Feb. 21 - Daytime temps reduced to low 70s feb.22 - ph. 7.5 - moist - will water tomorrow - trichomes not yet fully cloudy - mostly orange pistils - mostly curled inward pistils, lower down popcorn still white and straight - excellent trichomes on plant 2 - will feed tomorrow then I expect the next thing will be to flush so this will likely be the last feed - daytime temps now 70-77 - nightime 65 +/-1F feb. 23 - plants look very thirsty, leave shriveling from before but hanging down and not perky at all - Dirt is very dry, moisture meter reads moist 5/10 - Ph: 7.6 - The plant is very hungry - Some noticeable stretching or just more visible now - Buds look to continue getting fatter and look really nice - 4 gal of water ph = + 22ml of big bloom + 30ml of tiger bloom + 30ml of blackstrap molasses + 9ml of apple cider vinegar - plucked more super dead leaves - Expected dates: - feb. 25 (week 8) - expected cloudy trichomes: - feb. 25 (week 8) - expected flush date: - feb. 25 - expected harvest date - mar. 4-8 Specifications:😎👇 Seeds: - 2x White Widow feminized seeds from Crop King Seed Tent: - 4x4x6 Mammoth Grow tent LED: - 2x Spider Farmer SF1000 LED for veg - 4x Spider Farmer SF1000 LED for flower (190 watts - 50-40-50-50 back left, back right, front left, front right) Pots: - 2x 0.5 L starter pots - 2x 5 gal smart pots after transplant Soil: - Pro-mix containing mycorrhizae and perlite, used for starter pots and mixed at roughly 1:3 ratio with Ocean Forest - Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil, used in the 5 gallon pots and mixed with roughly 3:1 ratio with pro-mix - note: pro mix was mixed thoroughly with ocean forest in the 5 gal pot, then pro-mix was used on the top layer, in and around where the transplant will be to help the early veg stage avoid getting too "hot" via nutrients. Nutrients: - Fox Farm Big Bloom - Fox Farm Big Grow - Fox Farm Tiger Bloom - Wholesome - Blackstrap organic unsulphured molasses Inline Fans: - AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T6 6" (exhaust) - AC infinity CLOUDLINE S6 6" (active intake) - AC infinity 6" ducting Mini fans: - 2x Wind Devil 6" fans Carbon Filter: - 2x iPower Carbon Filter on both inline fans - note: carbon filter on intake fan as basement had mold issues in furnace room far removed but same floor, some mold issue in other room, cat litter in basement, thus, avoiding all risks and sleeping sound at night :) all mold was killed, scrubbed, cleaned, sprayed, painted, and sprayed again before setting up. Humidifier: - TaoTronics Cool Mist Humidifier Dehumidifier: - Frigidaire 30-Pint 3-Speed Dehumidifier Timers: - 2x VIVOSUN dual Digital Timer - 2x Kuman Digital Timer

Apple Pie. mmmmmm 👋Top is a clean cut, no confusion for the plant, road ahead is clear, by completely removing the main growth tip, the auxin source is eliminated. The plant permanently halts vertical growth from that main stem and immediately sends its energy and hormones to the two new, evenly spaced branches just below the cut. Fimming slightly different because a small tuft of the top growth is left behind, the auxin disruption is temporary and less severe. The plant recovers more quickly and sends its energy to multiple surrounding growth points, often creating four or more new shoots from the same spot. It will eventually regain some vertical dominance after a few weeks if left to its own devices, but with a little more LST, bending the apex to the same height as the rest of the internodes, this shatters dominance, hopefully creating around 8-9 main shoots growing at equal height once recovered and grown out. Reduced environmental intensity for now and let her focus on dealing with this new stress for a week or two. When H+ ions are added to soil, the first nutrient displaced from exchange sites is typically aluminum (Al3+), if it's present, followed by calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+), and potassium (K+), because aluminum and these base cations have different binding strengths. The order of displacement depends on the lyotropic series, where ions with a higher positive charge and those with weaker binding strengths are displaced first. The specific order of nutrient displacement is determined by the lyotropic series, which ranks the strength with which cations are adsorbed by soil particles: Al3+: Most strongly adsorbed, so if present, it will be displaced by H+ ions, leading to increased solubility of aluminum and potential plant toxicity. Ca2+: Displaced next, as it is more strongly bound than Mg2+ or K+ but less than Al3+. Mg2+ and K+: Displaced after Ca2+. The displaced nutrients can be lost from the root zone through leaching, becoming unavailable to plants. As H+ ions increase, the proportion of acid cations (H+ and Al3+) on the exchange sites increases, while base cations (Ca2+, Mg2+, K+) decrease, resulting in a lower soil pH. The amount of photosynthesis (water splitting) directly determines the availability of H+ ions (protons) in a plant. 90% of water is for cooling of photosynthetic apparatus the other 10% is split for its H+ among others things. Carbon sugars, like glucose, do oxidize in soil through a process primarily driven by microorganisms, which break down these sugars for energy. This oxidation converts the sugars into carbon dioxide (CO2) through cellular respiration, a key part of the soil carbon cycle, though some carbon may also be incorporated into soil organic matter. The rate and extent of sugar oxidation depend on factors like oxygen availability, the presence of Fe oxides, and soil redox conditions, which can all influence the process. My understanding of why we flush. Just plain water, what does it do? Strips the medium of salts and nutrients making it empty. What does that do? Triggers nutrient recycling within the plant. What's nutrient recycling? It is a natural part of plant senescence, which can be triggered once you know the switches. A 24:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio will also trigger. Why won't it trigger autophagy for me? Nitrogen needs to be gone, gone, gone almost. Ammoniacal (organic) nitrogen takes 4-5 times more water to separate it from soil particles than nitrates so what happens is most people jist flush the nitrates, leave all the ammoniacal in there and this prevents autophagy initiating. Nitrogen decays differently depending on its form during the dry. Ammoniacal nitrogen will oxidize in the air, leaving no trace. But nitrates do no decay and turn volatile and smelly and remain trapped until smoked, no matter how long you cure it does not oxidize. This is why you need to trigger it and begin the denitrification process prior to harvest to get rid of all the nitrates. Otherwise, you will smoke it. Flush till autophagy begins, just make sure you add no nitrogen afterwards. Micronutrients for trichomes. Don't leave the medium empty for 2 weeks, that does nothing but reduce yield 10%ish. Trichomes are another thing. Trichomes themselves are not directly affected by flushing; rather, flushing affects the plant's nutrient uptake, which influences the development and final state of the trichomes. Trichomes are filled with antioxidants in the last weeks, which is what makes them cloudy. A lot of the processing of antioxidants requires energy and nutrients (mostly micronutrients ), so you don't want that soil empty for 2 weeks, you just want the carbon nitrogen ratio 24:1and no higher. She still wants what she needs to ripen. Processing antioxidants is energy-intensive; heat and light accelerate the rate at which THC converts to CBN. This is why you lower DLI, lower temps. By doing so, you reduce the oxidative workload caused by photosynthesis, which opens up the oxidative capacity for the production of antioxidants. THC is mostly processed at night when the plant's oxidative capacity is generally moreso "free and available" for work

Good week for the girls, I had to defoliate a bit, but nothung much. They are growing fast and well !

The temperatures, humidity, and watering volume(if measured) in grow conditions are all averaged for the week. The pH is soil pH. Any watering done by me is well water which is 7.6 pH and 50° F. Any listed nutrients are ml/gallon of soil. Day 1 we have temperatures in the mid to upper 70's, clear skies, and lots of sunshine. We have no rain in the forecast for a few days 🙏 Day 2 we had lots of sunshine and clear skies. Highs in the upper 70's and 49% humidity. We needed the dryness. 🙏 Day 3 we had clear skies and sunshine. Temperatures were in the mid to upper 70's. Day 4 we had partly cloudy skies and temps in the middle 70's. I added some potassium and they seem to be responding well. Day 5 we had temperatures in the low 70's. Sky's were cloudy and we had showers in the evening. Day 6 we had rain the previous night and intermittently throughout the day. Temperatures were in the low 70's with cloudy skies. Day 7 we had clear skies sunshine. Temperatures were in the low 80's. This week was a success. There was more rain than I or the plants liked. We did have a few pistils brown up from the rain. There was zero boytritis and zero powdery mildew. These plants have not been treated with any preventative and they've flourished on their own resistance. The plants added a little more height. I expect that their stretch is over. Next week I'll add potassium to pump these buds out.

My first attempt at a scrog and only started it at day 7 of flower so a real rush job. Very happy with the outcome, bud quality is very high as is flavour and all from a 20L pot.

Day 49 of flower. Lovely! The Buds begin to bring flesh to them self. They grow up. The smell is a little bit diskret till now. I mean the strength of it. Sweet! SWEET! Glorious. I know for the most of north and south (maybe) it's an old wallpaper from Yesterday. But for me, its the first time I smell sticky Watermelon Zkittlez on my Fingers. AMAZING. (If in normal zkittlez is no watermelon smell) than:Like a voice of an God. "BONUS! DOUBLR XP FOR THE REST TIME OF THE GROW! YOU CHOOSE! MORE YIELD? UNIQUE COLORS?" "God(of Ganja maybe)…?" "YES? MY GROWMI?" "can i have both bonus?" WHAT THE FUCK! TRY TO DEAL WITH A GOD? What followed know is unknown. Just you heared some screams in the night. Not the funny ones. except you re an sadomasochist. Than you had really fun. I got still some aphids. But less than ever before. Still 3 weeks of flowering.. I can wait. The yield will not be big. I don't care about. I care about mouthwatering strong healthy weed. Thats why i grow. (and, i love to see them grow. But that was unexpected). WATERMELON ZKITTLEZ. I Love this plant. The colours. The height, the smell, and the sticky buds. Day 52 of flower. TRICHOMES RE MILKY the most 75% ca. The Buds re hard. The smell has changed to Haschisch. The fruity smell is still there, but getting less. Lets see. Phylaxien re 50% brown. Down under(Australia?). 20% and the lowest 5% brown. 18 days still to go. BARNEYS FARM, once again you satisfie me.. Hello @ day 54 of flower. The buds re becoming harder , and now they begin to grow up. In height. The colors of buds. Brown phylaxien, till bottom. She got 16 days to go now. Lets see if we take some amber trichoms till the harvest. The chop will be in stages, because Iwant the maturity ( is this right?) In every bud, and light helps. Day 55 of flower. The Light Spektrum has been Modified. I kill switched the blue Spektrum. In previous Grows it helps to increase the trichom productivity and faster maturity. But warning! If you kill the blue light to early, she stretches a lot.. Thank you for reading. I hope you enjoyed it. Day 55again. Aphids found! Damn! Should i defoliate the infested leaves? Day 57 of flower. I will not defoliate. I will wash the buds. Stay strong baby, youre my first photo period plant. And this is my first plant without any influences from a ruderalis.. And she is a beauty. By the way still some glass trichrome DAY 58 OF FLOWER. nothing happend Phylaxien went brown. Some new came... The buds re still hard. But they grow up.. 😛 24.09. 59 days of flower. Everything pretty. 25.09 AMBER trichomes starting on top buds. 60 days of Flowering. 27.09.... The Buds. Not soo big. But soo solid! I ve the pheno with the hard buds and slow growing but heavy earthy and INDICA lasting one! WITH THE HARD STEELBUDS YES, HAPPY!! Fruity smell is like zkittlez, but with an heavy earthy tone. Still not many Amber trichoms. But Hey we are in FLOWERWEEK 9!!! And 8-10 weeks the Breeder said. Did a defoliation cause prepare to harvest soon. And to get to the lowest benches some light, so they get harder. Trichome check says. WAIT! Gave water ph 6,5. Trichomes re mostly foggy. Still some clear Trichomes. AMBER ist not so much. Maybe on every bud 1%. Harvest, were coming closer... Boah SMOKE REPORT: First bong hit. Häh? Something happend. 30 sec later... Ok here we go, should i take another one? Its so smooth... Three minutes later... Damn my eyes, im so fxxxxxx relaxed, i liked to take a nap. Smooth A Smooth Criminal (AYE) The Buds re heavy. And the hardest i ever had. 30.09. 65 day of flower. Did a little prechop. The Rest still can ripen.

I just moved the mimosa inside a little growbox i bought 40x40x120 with a mes hydro 600. Let’s see!

This week I repotted the plants into the bigger pots and gave the plant i don't want to keep a new pot. They grew a bit but not that much. They also look a little light green again but that is because of the sun shining on them. I put them inside at night because it still is like 13-15 degrees outside. Did some LST again. Will give them some Canna Cure in a few hours or tomorrow morning.

W3D1 - I literally dont do a thing other than check pH and ppm. Lotus nutrients have been the cleanest nutrients I have used so far, the water is clean, roots look great and the plants are exploding with growth. I don’t think I need to cycle the reservoir water anytime soon but I’ll be switching the water out next week. 6/13/20 - did some light defoliation this week, disconnected the reservoir in preparation of the water swap and layout change, Also added the tent lining back in order to better control the environment. Snapped a small branch on one of the plants during LST but luckily is was a lower node growth and not the main top! I’m pretty sure i might have slightly stunted this one but its still growing pretty healthy. I am trying to keep better track of this grow, i started this grow during le quarantine and was called back to work so the work/life schedule has changed all up...

Memes for the fastbuds meme contest Memes for the fastbuds meme contest Memes for the fastbuds meme contest Memes for the fastbuds meme contest

in the last week i did some defoliation and tied her down switched to 12/12 yesterday

March, 30th. Bubbleegum is developing good showing nice shoots, and lots of new growth No big actions taken, Cleaning the tent, watering etc, Lights are running on 50 Percent distance to Bubblegum..... 65 cm Amazon US: XS1000 10% off: it10mlarimar http://yx-8.cn/0y-6 XS1500 5% off: it15mlarimar http://yx-8.cn/0yA XS2000 5% off: it20mlarimar http://yx-8.cn/0y2Y XS4000 5% off: it40mlarimar http://yx-8.cn/0y5k Amazon Canada XS1000 10% off: it10mlarimar https://amzn.to/38udUVe XS1500 5% off: it15mlarimar https://amzn.to/3esVUyr XS2000 5% off: it20mlarimar https://amzn.to/3l5zAfg XS4000 5% off: it40mlarimar https://amzn.to/3l7k5Uj

My F-MILF (NL untopped) is going to eat my tent She is not soaking 5 l (nutrified)per day...she drinks it with open mouth. Not a single drop drain Getting this: Aptus Topbooster 4 drops/l Aptus P-boost 10 drops/l Aptus regulator 3 drops/l Aptus All in one 0.6 ml/l Aptus CaMg 0.6 ml/l Trying to keep ph not lower than 6.4... Not easy because P-boost puch it down a lot All TA nutrients above are only for NL untoppes in smaller tent