21 - 27 septiembre Buena resina me gusta la floración y olores de esta genética

Soo as promised I got some close ups! And a couple videos! Please like and follow! I’m wondering if I cut nutes out a little too early because trichomes are like 90% milky but only a few Amber still. Maybe 2% amber. She is doing awesome and I honestly can’t wait to try her out it was well worth the wait! Let me know what you all think!

Hey Friends, end of week 13 from seed Buds are getting thicker Smell is getting stronger Bud structure is looking amazing, so far its been an amazing experience seeing this plant grow. I am watering every 3-4 days 1 full gallon of water mixed with nutrients. Leaves are green, looking healthy Trichomes are 98% cloudy 2% amber This week I had a tough time trying to maintain a steady humidity level, its been raining outside lately so humidity level goes up. QUESTIONS When should I begin flushing?

Are they going into flower? There is not many signs of that because i have a small leak of light between them but will see 🤞

7/1 Day 92 from sprout, day 37 of flower. Worth mentioning I started counting day 1 of flower from the day I switched the lights to 12/12. I guess some people count days of flower differently than that, but that’s mine. Buds have been packing on the frost over the past few days and slowly getting fatter. I know I won’t be getting any massive buds just because I topped multiple times and have a good amount of lower bud sites growing but that’s perfectly fine with me. Generally it looks like I’ll be getting golf ball sized buds all around. I also noticed I had 1 top bud site that was getting a lot more light than the others. Well I happen to be able to move that bar around away from that bud site in order to better disperse the light and even out the PAR map a bit. So I slid that over which allowed me to safely stay under 1000 PAR at that top while increasing my light up to 75%. This should result in more light for the lower parts while staying essentially the same up top. 7/5 Day 96 from sprout, day 41 of flower. I gave the light a small nudge past 75% yesterday and I haven’t seen any light stress yet. I’ll keep nudging it higher until I see something, but I gotta be near the limit. Most of my top sites are sitting around 900 PAR, but I have two sites that spike up to around 1050 PAR. I do have two CO2 bags resting on top of my light but it’s impossible to know how much that helps, if at all. Growth has been great though; buds remain frosty and are slowly getting bigger still. The top half of the buds will be of respectable size, no monsters but good solid bud. I’ll still have some larf way down in the lower half though, an unfortunate consequence of the insane stretch and being unsure how much to hack off in that scenario. I debated trimming them all off now but I’m thinking at this point in flower I should just leave her alone and grow. 7/6 It’s possible I found my upper limit on light intensity. I started to see some faint yellow areas appear on some leaves and there’s an increase of dry crispy leaf tips. So at least for this grow I think I’ve established that 75% power is the max I can do. For now I’ve backed off the lights to the last hash mark before 75%, which has most tops sitting at around 750 PAR and a few others at 850 PAR for a max DLI of 36.7. I’ll probably go back up to 75% next week.

Pleased to reach the finish Line without any issues

29.09.2024 - Day 17 every plant was dry after 3 days, i only gave them 3L of plain rainwater pH 6.0-7.0~ each 04.10.2024 - Day 22

End off week 10 start off week 11 gave them a feed today think this will be the last feed of nutrients maybe a week to two left what’s everyone’s thoughts start flushing now or give another feed of nutrients then flush the next feed thanks for viewing happy growing :)

End of week 5 from sprout and end of the 4rd week of veg. Absolute fire! One of the most worry free vegetations in my career. After I was having few runs with only cuts, it's been an eye opening experience now to pop these regular seeds of BIG BLOCK, bred by Cannabis Brothers. Today we mark the first day of 12/12 light schedule but as you can see plants went through some HST (high stress training). 5 days ago, that was on day 30 from sprout, I performed topping and putting them into preservation for future if we see that one of those 9 plants turned out to be a "keeper". Canopy looks hella good at this stage but now when I flipped them, some might and probably will turn out to be a male specimen. We don't want males so I will have to remove them and the resulting canopy might look completely different 3 weeks from now. Let's see how it goes 🤞

Harvested the Purple Lemonade. Smell of the flower is extreme! Most of the rosin is coming from the cuttings of the Tropicana Cookies. However, I have not been able to “cure” the cuttings of the other plants at a controlled 62% humidity, so this may not be a meaningful result. Thought a little more Anthocyan would surive, but i may have to press @ 160 Mikron next time, will try :)

3/16 234AM MONDAY POTATO N WEEK CELEBRATIONS! The plants in your photos look like healthy, vigorous **RF3 autoflower seedlings** (likely Banana Purple Punch Auto RF3 or similar from Fast Buds' upgraded RF3 line, based on the context of your previous grows with their genetics). They're in early vegetative stage at around 3 weeks from seed—nice bushy structure, good node spacing, dark green leaves, no major deficiencies or burn yet. The coco medium shows some perlite mix, and they're in small pots with what looks like a well-draining setup. Solid start **RF3 autos** from Fast Buds are bred for stability, vigor, and resilience (often with heavy resin, dense buds, and good yields), but like most modern autos, they're sensitive to overfeeding early on—especially in coco, where salts build fast if not managed. ### Recommended EC at 3 Weeks (Early Veg/Pre-Flower Transition) At week 3, autos are usually ramping up vegetative growth and may start showing pre-flower signs soon (pistils around nodes). Fast Buds' general autoflower feeding advice (from their guides and nutrient articles) emphasizes starting low and going slow: - **Target EC: 0.8–1.2 (800–1200 µS/cm)** in the feed solution. - Start at the lower end (~0.8–1.0 EC) if your plants are still very young-looking or if you've had any tip issues before. - Push toward 1.0–1.2 EC if they're hungry (rapid growth, pale lower leaves) and responding well—no burn. - This is often ~400–600 PPM (500 scale) or ~560–840 PPM (700 scale), but always go by EC meter for accuracy in coco. - Always measure **runoff EC** too—aim for it to be no more than +200–300 above input to avoid salt buildup. If runoff is much higher, do a light flush with FloraKleen (like your 4 mL/gal plan) before bumping up. - pH the feed to **5.8–6.2** (coco sweet spot), and water to 15–20%+ runoff every feed to prevent the issues you've seen with Purpinator/salts. Many growers with Fast Buds autos (including RF3 lines like Banana Purple Punch or Cherry Cola RF3) report week 3 feeds around 0.9–1.1 EC in coco/hydro setups, starting lighter if using tap/soft water like yours. Your previous success with lighter Maxi feeds post-flush at ~900–1300 EC later on fits well—don't jump straight to 1.3 yet at week 3; build gradually. ### Recommended PPFD (Light Intensity) at 3 Weeks PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density, in µmol/m²/s) measures usable light for photosynthesis. For autos in early veg: - **Target PPFD: 300–500 µmol/m²/s** at canopy level. - 300–400 is safe and conservative for week 3—prevents stretch or light stress while encouraging compact, bushy growth. - 400–500 if plants are stretching a bit or you want faster veg (RF3s are vigorous, so they can handle it). - Avoid over 600 early—autos can bleach or foxtail if blasted too hard young. - Measure at the top of the canopy with a good PAR meter (or app like Photone if calibrated). In Indio's setup (likely LED or HPS?), hang lights higher early (18–24" for LEDs) and lower gradually as they grow. - Keep 18/6 or 20/4 light schedule—autos thrive on consistent long days. General tips for your RF3 at this stage: - If using Maxi series (like your previous grows), mix a light bloom/veg combo—e.g., mostly MaxiGro early, transition to MaxiBloom as pre-flower hits. - Watch for clawing (N excess😂) or tip burn (high EC)—flush lightly if needed. - These RF3 upgrades are forgiving but love good airflow and moderate feeds for those dense, resinous buds. Your plants look primed for a strong run—keep that intuition going! How's the light distance/setup right now, and what's your current feed EC looking like? Any pre-flower signs yet? Drop more pics if they stretch or change post-week 3. You're killing it in coco—keep observing runoff and leaves. 🌿🚀 3/19 330am 👨‍🔬 **Adding L-Proline (the amino acid supplement growers use) to plants on soft water can provide some helpful support against the stresses you're dealing with, but it's not a full fix—think of it as a stress-buffer rather than a mineral replacement.** Soft water (low in calcium and magnesium) often triggers **Ca/Mg deficiencies** in bloom stage (especially with Cha Ching or MaxiBloom, which don't supply much Ca/Mg on their own). This leads to issues like tip burn, leaf curl, weak cell walls, nutrient lockouts, oxidative damage (ROS buildup), and overall plant stress that feels like "the plant is struggling to hold it together." Proline steps in here as an **osmoprotectant**—it's one of the compounds plants naturally ramp up under stress. ### What Proline Actually Does in This Situation - **Helps with osmotic/water balance** — Soft water can disrupt turgor pressure and water movement inside cells (similar to mild drought or salinity stress). Proline stabilizes cell membranes and helps the plant retain water better, reducing wilting or limpness. - **Reduces oxidative stress** — Ca/Mg shortages cause free radical damage. Proline acts as an antioxidant and protects proteins/enzymes, so deficiency symptoms (yellowing, spotting, slowed bud development) don't spiral as fast. - **Improves overall resilience** — In cannabis and general hydro/soil grows, L-proline (or full amino acid mixes containing it) has been shown to boost stress tolerance, speed recovery, and even support better nutrient uptake indirectly. Studies and grower reports note it helps under nutrient imbalance, drought-like conditions, and environmental swings—exactly the secondary stresses soft water creates. - **Bloom-stage bonus** — Since you're already in late flower with Cha Ching/MaxiBloom, proline can support resin/terpene production and bud density without pushing excessive veg growth. It won't magically add the missing Ca or Mg (those are still critical—soft water + high-P bloom nutes often screams for CalMag), but it can make the plant more tolerant while you correct the root issue. ### How Much Effect to Expect Right Now - **Positive but moderate** — Many hydro/RO growers add amino acids (including proline) specifically for soft water setups and report less burn, better leaf health, and stronger finishes. It won't turn a severe deficiency around overnight, but it can slow the damage and give your plants a fighting chance in the final weeks. - **No downside at proper doses** — It's very safe and plants use it quickly. ### How to Add It (Practical Dosing) - **Source**: Pure L-Proline powder (available cheap online—make sure it's the plant-grade L-form, not human supplements). - **Root feed** (with your Cha Ching/MaxiBloom): Start at 0.5–1 g per gallon (about 100–200 ppm). Mix into your res or feed water once a week. pH as normal. - **Foliar spray** (often more effective for quick stress relief): 0.25–0.5 g per gallon + a drop of surfactant. Spray lightly every 5–7 days in the dark period. - **With your current nutes**: Yes, it layers fine—reduce if you see any tip burn. Many run it alongside MaxiBloom + Cha Ching in soft water without issues. - **Best timing**: Now through harvest is perfect, especially if you're noticing stress signs already. **Real talk**: The biggest win will still come from adding a proper CalMag supplement (like Botanicare or General Hydro's) at 0.5–1 ml/gal or whatever your PPM tests call for. Proline + CalMag together is a strong combo for soft water grows. If you're running pure RO/soft, most experienced growers treat this as standard.""👨‍🔬 3/19 10:09PM RF3 X 2 =6 fail? I have TWO 2 gallon pots filled with coco from the last grow. I can plant a NEW BPP RF3 OR!!! I can top the 3 RF3's and make cuttings and grow the cuttings? It worked before!. FAST turnaround time, not much prep just refresh the coco and transplant the tops! 3/19 10:59PM NO WORK FOR NOW.. HIT WITH MASSIVE WAVES OF NAUSEA AND SHARP PAIN, DIZZY, RUPTURED NECK CYST BLEEDING, PAIN FROM MOVING TOO MUCH LAST FEW DAYS, RINIGNG EARS BAD, SKIN PRONE TO MASSIVE INFLAMMATION ATTACKS NOW, WEAKENING GUT LINING,. LUNGS ..GRIP AND BALANCE OFF, SO PERFECTLY NORMAL!!! THANK THE WEED GODS FOR WEED. 3/21 3:30 AM I think I’m gonna top all three of them. I got lucky all three seem to be different ones. I don’t know which is which one of them is really tall. The other one has really tight in her note spacing it’s really good and the other one is also good little bit different so I think I got three different RF three seeds and I think if I do top them I’m gonna put the top in another 2 gallon and then grow that as a cutting usually works I’m not sure👍🌿 3/23 3:08 PM I cut them all in half today a transplanted the top of the tallest one into one that was still growing just to see if it would work. They’re all doing really good.👍 326 237am Remember how your local ss cant prevent or solve a single problem you pay taxes for. unless you're really really sick and the cowards decide that the most important and pressing issue is to raid weed users and farms and seeds...what a country of fuqs

J'ai arrêté l'ajout de super vite de hesi et du power feeding booster. Comme vous pouvez le voir les plantes les plus développées aux niveaux des buds ont subit un excès de nutriments. En espérant que cette phase de rinçage de fin de floraison va stopper les dégâts des excès.

All good

Cut some Blue Magoo clones. We are using the Nectur for the Gods line on this grow. We cut the clones, cleaned them up, cut them at the stem at a 45 degree angle, dipped them in clonex and planted them in spongy wet plugs. They are under a 4000k HLG LED light under a dome on an 18hour light schedule.

Happy Mother’s Day. 5/13 Getting weird like bright neon orange pistils. I personally think it’s way too early to have pistils changing colors already. 5/16 fairly certain it was wind burn. My humidity was jacking up and my fan was trying to compensate. Changed settings and we should be golden now. Plant is frosting up hella already. I think there’s more frost than there are pistils 5/18 day 20 of flowering. Last day of week 2

Week 2 for the solo Afghani went smooth. Looked a little slow to develop her first proper set of leaves, but the root development should help speed up her progression. Still feeding off the slow release 444 and is now regularly drinking about 2oz of water every other day. I also spritz the bottom of the outer cup to keep moisture levels high for stretching roots. She's about 36" from the light. Hoping to get a little stretch to make training easier. Added a couple new pics to get the week caught up. Stay tuned, week 3 starts training.

Been a good week seen some nice changes We have stopped canna Rhizotinic And added some terpinator But yeah all good so far We're working on our 2nd grow room at the moment hopefully be ready in 2 weeks time stay tuned 🔥

she is still branching, so i realized she needed ore space and put her out in a larger 4x4 tent as compare to the orignal 2'x2'. the tent has more cmlights then the single one in the smaller tent - this made the girl start to uptake nutrients such that there is very little drained to waste. i also put a screen to start scroging over her. the screen has large holes, so i think it may require high stress training to move the stems to the next section without breaking them. the data from grow rooms sensors etc gets overwhelming quickly and i can't really keep up. so i created a graphical animation visualizing for the composite garden data from the live garden sensor data. this is fun as things on the dashboard change colors and shape based on the sensor status. it is also interactive as i can also send commands to say control the lights, pump by clicking on them on the animation. . i am still using my doser to mix nutrients and then refill this garden manually. besides the plant response to the increased lighting , all other conditions i can adjust are still similar.