Got them at home in their flowering tent. Everything is looking great!

6/15. Glad I listened to my intuition and held off watering. IT Rained andctheb again last night. Plants seem to be doingvreal well. Slight burn on lower leaves where it was before from being in the garage and I found on spot that LOOKED like it could've been caused by a pillar but it's right on a burn. I sefoliated one leaf. This is minor stuff. Next watering I'll be adding silica. I'm not giving nutes until the plants tell the need them. The 3 gallon ones may receive nutes first as they'll run out. I'll update as I progress. Went back over at 8:30. It's just overcast with showers. Plants seemed to like it. They all look good. Noticed a chunk out of a leaf and a POSSIBLE pillar spot. I'm going to have to get the BT out and and give the girls an application. I'm waiting until they settle in a bit more though. I need to start LST as well AND the light dep. Unfortunately "life" has made things difficult. I'll get back over there today though and I'll start the light dep. Kinda makes me wonder though. The 1pth planet I wanted to light deo is tge same size as the others in the much bigger containers. The thought came that maybe I should just hold on to them as extras in case something happens. I also am going to start silica next watering but it will be a few weeks before any nutes are given. UPDATE: WENT BACK OVER AT FIVE AND TOOK ACSHOT TON OF PICTURES. IM TRYING TO UOLOAD NOW. THINGS ARE POPPING OFF AND IM GETTING A NICE SWEET SKUNKY ODOR. WHILE I WASCTHERE WE GOT A QUICK SHOWER. DIDNT LAST MORE THAN TEN MINUTES BUT IT RAINED HARD. I FOUND A TEMPORARY SPOT TO LIGHT DEP THE TWO PURPLE PUNCH AND THE ONE TENTH PLANET. I DONT SEE ANY LIGHT LEALS AND ITS SURE AS HELL DARKER THAN IT IS AT NIGHT. I'LL SEE HOW IT GOES LEQVING THE COVER ON ALL NIGHT. IF IT DOESNT WORK I MAY JEED TO ADD A FAN OR CHANCECTHE SPACE. I ALMOST DIDNT WANT TO DO THIS AS THE 10TH PLANET IS KEEPING PACE WITH ITS SISTERS, DESPITE THE SMALLER POT. OH WELL I WANT TO GIVE IT A SHOT AND I DONT WANT MY CAGE OVER CROWDED. I'M LOOKONG TO DO A 6:30 TO 6:30 SCHEDULE. 6/16 First night of light dep for the three little ones. I won't be able to call them that soon. I'm currently trying to upload a video. My grow buddy mentioned the droopiness of a couple of my plants in this video and how I hadn't been watering. This kinda scared me so I ran over and checked the too few inches on the two that had a little droop and came out dry. I had some water already phed ready to go (I'm hoping that the ph doesn't change if it's stored a day or two) and used the gallon to moisten the dry topsoil. Looking back over my diary we have had nothing but rain. I then tried the "lift the pot method" and came to the conclusion that these bags were indeed still holding moisture. I assumed they would be considering the thunderstorms we've had. I held off on fullt watering because the weather said the next dry day is going to be Monday. Today is Friday so thats two solid days of rain. Three if you count today through the night. I concentrated my watering of the one gallon on the couple plants that appeared to droop. If it doesn't rain like they say it will I will need to water. I need to set up a decent watering schedule but I need it to hold off raining long enough to do so. UPDATE: I WENT BACK OVER AND PUT THE 3 GALS IN FOR BED AND CHECKED OUT THE REST OF THE GARDEN. I WATERED THE 3 GAL GIRLS A LITTLE MORE SINCE THEY WONT BE OUTSIDE. THE BIT OF WATER I GAVE SEEMED TO HELP LIFT SOME OF THE GIRLS. AT LEAST I THINK IT DID. THE RAIN SHOULDVE COME ALREADY. I WOULDVE WATERED MORE HAD THE BAGS NOT BEEN SO HEAVY. 6/17 Rained all night which is good. Brought the three transplants out but left them under the overhang so they. Dont get soaked. So far light depoing is going good. Well its only been two nights but we'll see. I'll update as I go. Not feeling well today. Went back over and checked on the plants and did a video. Probably won't get uploaded until tomorrow. I'm giving it a shot. It's raining in good shape. Plants looked fine when I was there. I need to get my supports and my trellis in place. Video won't upload. No suprise. I'll get it tomorrow. 6/18 Uploaded videos if they fuck up from me editing I'm gonna be pissed. Anyway it's still pouring with high winds. I added a couple supports where it looked like it needed it. I need to put my trellis up. I've been able to keep up with the light dep and those plants haven't been used and abused. They stay in the building facing the sun when the weather is this bad. I think they're looking great. I may start a new diary just for them. Sun came out around four. Trying to upload a couple videos but doesn't look like it's going to happen. Tucked the three little ones in at six. It had stopped raining and the wind died down some. If adverse conditions create good plants then I'm on the way to a great harvest. Minor bleaching and burns on a few lower fan leaves and some wrinkling on some from wind burn other than that plants seem to be acclimated. Did a video but will have to wait until tomorrow to upload 6/19 It's not raining! We got four inches this past storm lol. Having the bags raised on pollens I believe has greatly helped. As did the high winds that help dry the soil in the bag. Had to add a few temporary supports. Light dep is going good. Adjusted amd found a better spot. I'm considering getting "pool noodles" or some other thing like a Hulu hoops or pvc pipe and making either a frame on the roof for the entire cage or on top of each individual plants posts so I could roll clear plastic over it when it rains. I'm thinking about later on in the fall when this could really help. I found a roll of plastic. Also thought about putting that up on the back wall but I didn't. What I'm doing right now is working. I just need to keep up with it. I also need a solid watering schedule to stick too. It's hard when each plants needs are different. Oh well. I'm just happy to be growing again. I pray to the cannabis gods and the Lord above himself that I'm not plagued with the problems of last year. 6/20. I'm sick as fuck but I got the little girls out in the sun. Light dep is going good. Plants look great. I'll update when I feel better and if I do anything. Still feel like shit. Luckily I looked up just in time to get to the grow and put the little ones to bed. They were thirsty (especially the bushy 10th planet so I gave them about 3/4 of a gallon of water. Got lots of run off from 10th planet. Didn't notice as much from the others but I was hurrying. I'll upload later. Still sick. 6/21 Plants seem to be doing great. I removed some lower growth on a few just to see how they respond. I'm going to do some defoliation down low and I want to see how the plants respond. I'm planning my first full watering Thursday as we have a real good stretch of weather after that. Grow bags are still heavy as hell so they have sufficient water. I'll be adding silica nextcl watering. Not time for nutes but I think it would be okay to start the silica and in another week I might start small doses of nutes. The light dep on the little girls is go8ng great! It's cool I'll get to sample some of these strains before fall. I'll update after I do something. Tucked the girls in at 6. I might need to think about transplanting that 10th planet in the 3 gallon. I watered until runoff yesterday and it's light as hell today. Plus I fimked it and it's bushy as hell. I've Bern turning it si it gets all angles of the sun. I have a bag of 707 left and a 5 gallon bucket with holes drilled all over it like an air pot and a ten gallon grow bag. This will take some thought. Hot af today. I wad able to lift the grow bags so I decided tomorrow will be the girls first real watering. I think I'll be adding silica and possibly kelp me kelp you due to the heat stress I've been noticing. Nothing bad just a few tacoed leaves. I've had several people that have seen my grow in person tell me that this is by far the healthiest (not biggest I've had bigger) but by farcthe healthies5 crop I've grown. They believe I'll have my best year ever this year. I hope they are right. Vid won't be uploaded until tomorrow. 6/22 WATERED TODAY. I'm still a little gun shy with watering. That fusarium last year pretty much traumatized me. I left the container plants alone. I gave them a little water but not enough to do much. I used a pump sprayer on a mist setting and went one by one and back around gently watering the entire medium. This took forever and I'll be finding a different way to water. I hope this was enough water. I'll check later on and if they look like they want more I give it to them. I started LST on the light dep 10th planet and tucked some branches of a another under the tomato cage. I had missed that earlier. I also went around and cleaned up the bottoms on most. Getting rid of things that will amount to nothing. I noticed what looked like thrip damage on ONE leaf on ONE plant. I also saw a chunk missing from a grasshopper bite and a finger of a fan leaf petiol was broken so I'm going to need to get my ipm up and running. I'm unsure whether I'll be using chemicals or predators. Probably BT and spinosad. That's what I've had the best luck with. I also noticed bottom leaves dying off on the bottom of a couple plants. It was where the burns were though so I'm almost 100% its just related to the light burns they got when i first put them up. I'll be updating the diary as I do more stuff.

The girls are really starting to take off now. They are growing on average 1-2 inches a day. we should start to see clear preflower this week.

The girl seems to be ok. She's going into flowering mode in a few days from now. I let her recover from defolation first.

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Cured for 1 month, nice trichomas covering, smell good, nice THC level (not for beginners), easy to grow, long cycle, needs long term veg time.

Howdy, as requested by some fellow followers and growers, I took more media this time, to show the 2 shorter plants and the taller one. Photos have been taken in order to show the plant overall, the details of the colas and related tricomes and then there is a 4K video to better see the situation. I hope that you can like it ^^ Plants kept the same height: (31-31-69cm) = (12-12-27 inches) Temperatures were warm, most of the week above +30° (86F), air was dry and sun was strong. Plants got water early in the morning and in the evening after the sun. Please provide a feedback about the maturation of the plants, this should be the 5th completed flowering week. I am still struggling to understand why this year the plants sucked so much in size, even comparing with other autos I grew One plant has trauma from a bird pulling out the seed's plantling twice and I can understand, but what about the other replaced plant that shares the same height and did not have the same trauma? The only big change that I did this year was to follow this advice from YouTube, they explained since auto-flowering plants have a very short living cycle, to avoid the trauma of transplantation, was better to put the cracked seed directly into the soil of the final growing pot. So I did, because it sounded smart, but results still show a worsening compared to previous years.

La planta sigue ramificando e inicia la pre floración, se prepara para dar el último estiron. Mientras tanto yo le cambié el fotoperiodo a 20/4 y le agregué un foco de sodio de 400w a los 200w de cfl que ya tenía en vegetación. Volví a ajustar el lst creo que por última vez antes de dejarlas ser hasta el final. Riego cada 4 días aproximadamente con 2L de agua estacionada con ph entre 6.2 y 6.4. Ayer le tocó agua pura y en cuanto me pida más le daré un poquito de extracto de algas de top crop. Big one y top auto en muy bajas dosis, pues la planta no ha mostrado signos de deficiencia alguna.. Hice un riego foliar con aceite de Neem, extracto de canela y jabón potásico a modo preventivo. Ha respondido bien a la nueva luz, la distancia entre el sodio y la copa es de 60cm, iré acortando más adelante 10cm más si la temperatura me lo permite, La sigo!

Hi meine lieben, 🤗 Die Sämling-Phase hat begonnen... In dieser Phase braucht es am meisten geduld, da der sämling noch recht empfindlich ist. Wie mein Ablauf in dieser Woche genau aussah, habe ich hier für uns Dokumentiert. Ich wünsche dir viel Spaß & Happy Growing 🌱🤗: ______________________________________________________________________________ Umgebungswerte der Woche: - Temperatur: 24°C - Luftfeuchtigkeit: 80% - 75% zum Ende der Woche - VDP (Room): 0,65 Tag 1: - Licht eingestellt: PPFD: 100 µmol - Lampen Entfernung auf 60cm - Lichtzyklus: 18/6 Tag 2: - Pflanzen Höhe gemessen: 5cm - Licht eingestellt: PPFD: 155 µmol Bewässert 👇(Nur Wasser): - Volumen: 65ml - PH-Wert: 6,0 - EC-Wert: 0,5 - Temperatur: 20°C Tag 3: - Nur beobachtet Tag 4: - Nur beobachtet Tag 5: - Licht gemessen (aktuell): PPFD: 165 µmol - Pflanzen Höhe gemessen: 9cm Tag 6: - Nur beobachtet Tag 7: - Licht gemessen (aktuell): PPFD: 175 µmol Bewässert 👇(Nur Wasser): - Volumen: 200ml (120ml hätten auch gereicht) - PH-Wert: 6,0 - EC-Wert: 0,5 - Temperatur: 21°C Run-Off gemessen 👇(Drain): - Volumen: 100ml - PH-Wert: 6,0 - EC-Wert: 2,25 - Temperatur: 21°C

Plants are growing at a nice pace especially dealing with the extra high PH runoff

Vigorous plants.. i like them so far, lets hope they yield good💪

it grows well on cold environment

Day 36 I've just tightened up the LST and watched them grow. Tomorrow I'm gonna feed them cause the soil is dry enough. At least 10cm beneath the surface. Day 37 I've watered each one of them with: -2L pH 6.2 water at 20.5°C with -1ml/L Biobizz Top-Max -2ml/L Biobizz Bio-Bloom Run off was 700-850 ppm pH 6.3 Day 38 I've just watched them. Day 41 I've adjusted some LST and a little defoliation again because they are stretching now Even if they look a little bit small I'm happy so far with my first grow. I still have a lot more to learn and it is a never ending journey i guess. Thank you for passing by to check my diary, I do really appreciate it. Happy New Year to you all and you beloved ones.

Yellow butterfly came to see me the other day; that was nice. Starting to show signs of stress on the odd leaf, localized isolated blips, blemishes, who said growing up was going to be easy! Smaller leaves have less surface area for stomata to occupy, so the stomata are packed more densely to maintain adequate gas exchange. Smaller leaves might have higher stomatal density to compensate for their smaller size, potentially maximizing carbon uptake and minimizing water loss. Environmental conditions like light intensity and water availability can influence stomatal density, and these factors can affect leaf size as well. Leaf development involves cell division and expansion, and stomatal differentiation is sensitive to these processes. In essence, the smaller leaf size can lead to a higher stomatal density due to the constraints of available space and the need to optimize gas exchange for photosynthesis and transpiration. In the long term, UV-B radiation can lead to more complex changes in stomatal morphology, including effects on both stomatal density and size, potentially impacting carbon sequestration and water use. In essence, UV-B can be a double-edged sword for stomata: It can induce stomatal closure and potentially reduce stomatal size, but it may also trigger an increase in stomatal density as a compensatory mechanism. It is generally more efficient for gas exchange to have smaller leaves with a higher stomatal density, rather than large leaves with lower stomatal density. This is because smaller stomata can facilitate faster gas exchange due to shorter diffusion pathways, even though they may have the same total pore area as fewer, larger stomata. Leaf size tends to decrease in colder climates to reduce heat loss, while larger leaves are more common in warmer, humid environments. Plants in arid regions often develop smaller leaves with a thicker cuticle and/or hairs to minimize water loss through transpiration. Conversely, plants in wet environments may have larger leaves and drip tips to facilitate water runoff. Leaf size and shape can vary based on light availability. For example, leaves in shaded areas may be larger and thinner to maximize light absorption. Leaf mass per area (LMA) can be higher in stressful environments with limited nutrients, indicating a greater investment in structural components for protection and critical resource conservation. Wind speed, humidity, and soil conditions can also influence leaf morphology, leading to variations in leaf shape, size, and surface characteristics. Small leaves: Reduce water loss in arid or cold climates. Environmental conditions significantly affect gene expression in plants. Plants are sessile organisms, meaning they cannot move to escape unfavorable conditions, so they rely on gene expression to adapt to their surroundings. Environmental factors like light, temperature, water, and nutrient availability can trigger changes in gene expression, allowing plants to respond to and survive in diverse environments. Depending on the environment a young seedling encounters, the developmental program following seed germination could be skotomorphogenesis in the dark or photomorphogenesis in the light. Light signals are interpreted by a repertoire of photoreceptors followed by sophisticated gene expression networks, eventually resulting in developmental changes. The expression and functions of photoreceptors and key signaling molecules are highly coordinated and regulated at multiple levels of the central dogma in molecular biology. Light activates gene expression through the actions of positive transcriptional regulators and the relaxation of chromatin by histone acetylation. Small regulatory RNAs help attenuate the expression of light-responsive genes. Alternative splicing, protein phosphorylation/dephosphorylation, the formation of diverse transcriptional complexes, and selective protein degradation all contribute to proteome diversity and change the functions of individual proteins. Photomorphogenesis, the light-driven developmental changes in plants, significantly impacts gene expression. It involves a cascade of events where light signals, perceived by photoreceptors, trigger changes in gene expression patterns, ultimately leading to the development of a plant in response to its light environment. Genes are expressed, not dictated! While having the potential to encode proteins, genes are not automatically and constantly active. Instead, their expression (the process of turning them into proteins) is carefully regulated by the cell, responding to internal and external signals. This means that genes can be "turned on" or "turned off," and the level of expression can be adjusted, depending on the cell's needs and the surrounding environment. In plants, genes are not simply "on" or "off" but rather their expression is carefully regulated based on various factors, including the cell type, developmental stage, and environmental conditions. This means that while all cells in a plant contain the same genetic information (the same genes), different cells will express different subsets of those genes at different times. This regulation is crucial for the proper functioning and development of the plant. When a green plant is exposed to red light, much of the red light is absorbed, but some is also reflected back. The reflected red light, along with any blue light reflected from other parts of the plant, can be perceived by our eyes as purple. Carotenoids absorb light in blue-green region of the visible spectrum, complementing chlorophyll's absorption in the red region. They safeguard the photosynthetic machinery from excessive light by activating singlet oxygen, an oxidant formed during photosynthesis. Carotenoids also quench triplet chlorophyll, which can negatively affect photosynthesis, and scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS) that can damage cellular proteins. Additionally, carotenoid derivatives signal plant development and responses to environmental cues. They serve as precursors for the biosynthesis of phytohormones such as abscisic acid () and strigolactones (SLs). These pigments are responsible for the orange, red, and yellow hues of fruits and vegetables, while acting as free scavengers to protect plants during photosynthesis. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is an electronically excited state of molecular oxygen (O₂). Singlet oxygen is produced as a byproduct during photosynthesis, primarily within the photosystem II (PSII) reaction center and light-harvesting antenna complex. This occurs when excess energy from excited chlorophyll molecules is transferred to molecular oxygen. While singlet oxygen can cause oxidative damage, plants have mechanisms to manage its production and mitigate its harmful effects. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is considered a reactive oxygen species (ROS). It's a form of oxygen with higher energy and reactivity compared to the more common triplet oxygen found in its ground state. Singlet oxygen is generated both in biological systems, such as during photosynthesis in plants, and in cellular processes, and through chemical and photochemical reactions. While singlet oxygen is a ROS, it's important to note that it differs from other ROS like superoxide (O₂⁻), hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂), and hydroxyl radicals (OH) in its formation, reactivity, and specific biological roles. Non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) protects plants from damage caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) by dissipating excess light energy as heat. This process reduces the overexcitation of photosynthetic pigments, which can lead to the production of ROS, thus mitigating the potential for photodamage. Zeaxanthin, a carotenoid pigment, plays a crucial role in photoprotection in plants by both enhancing non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS). In high-light conditions, zeaxanthin is synthesized from violaxanthin through the xanthophyll cycle, and this zeaxanthin then facilitates heat dissipation of excess light energy (NPQ) and quenches harmful ROS. The Issue of Singlet Oxygen!! ROS Formation: Blue light, with its higher energy photons, can promote the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), including singlet oxygen, within the plant. Potential Damage: High levels of ROS can damage cellular components, including proteins, lipids, and DNA, potentially impacting plant health and productivity. Balancing Act: A balanced spectrum of light, including both blue and red light, is crucial for mitigating the harmful effects of excessive blue light and promoting optimal plant growth and stress tolerance. The Importance of Red Light: Red light (especially far-red) can help to mitigate the negative effects of excessive blue light by: Balancing the Photoreceptor Response: Red light can influence the activity of photoreceptors like phytochrome, which are involved in regulating plant responses to different light wavelengths. Enhancing Antioxidant Production: Red and blue light can stimulate the production of antioxidants, which help to neutralize ROS and protect the plant from oxidative damage. Optimizing Photosynthesis: Red light is efficiently used in photosynthesis, and its combination with blue light can lead to increased photosynthetic efficiency and biomass production. In controlled environments like greenhouses and vertical farms, optimizing the ratio of blue and red light is a key strategy for promoting healthy plant growth and yield. Understanding the interplay between blue light signaling, ROS production, and antioxidant defense mechanisms can inform breeding programs and biotechnological interventions aimed at improving plant stress resistance. In summary, while blue light is essential for plant development and photosynthesis, it's crucial to balance it with other light wavelengths, particularly red light, to prevent excessive ROS formation and promote overall plant health. Oxidative damage in plants occurs when there's an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the plant's ability to neutralize them, leading to cellular damage. This imbalance, known as oxidative stress, can result from various environmental stressors, affecting plant growth, development, and overall productivity. Causes of Oxidative Damage: Abiotic stresses: These include extreme temperatures (heat and cold), drought, salinity, heavy metal toxicity, and excessive light. Biotic stresses: Pathogen attacks and insect infestations can also trigger oxidative stress. Metabolic processes: Normal cellular activities, particularly in chloroplasts, mitochondria, and peroxisomes, can generate ROS as byproducts. Certain chlorophyll biosynthesis intermediates can produce singlet oxygen (1O2), a potent ROS, leading to oxidative damage. ROS can damage lipids (lipid peroxidation), proteins, carbohydrates, and nucleic acids (DNA). Oxidative stress can compromise the integrity of cell membranes, affecting their function and permeability. Oxidative damage can interfere with essential cellular functions, including photosynthesis, respiration, and signal transduction. In severe cases, oxidative stress can trigger programmed cell death (apoptosis). Oxidative damage can lead to stunted growth, reduced biomass, and lower crop yields. Plants have evolved intricate antioxidant defense systems to counteract oxidative stress. These include: Enzymes like superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), and various peroxidases scavenge ROS and neutralize their damaging effects. Antioxidant molecules like glutathione, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), C60 fullerene, and carotenoids directly neutralize ROS. Developing plant varieties with gene expression focused on enhanced antioxidant capacity and stress tolerance is crucial. Optimizing irrigation, fertilization, and other management practices can help minimize stress and oxidative damage. Applying antioxidant compounds or elicitors can help plants cope with oxidative stress. Introducing genes for enhanced antioxidant enzymes or stress-related proteins over generations. Phytohormones, also known as plant hormones, are a group of naturally occurring organic compounds that regulate plant growth, development, and various physiological processes. The five major classes of phytohormones are: auxins, gibberellins, cytokinins, ethylene, and abscisic acid. In addition to these, other phytohormones like brassinosteroids, jasmonates, and salicylates also play significant roles. Here's a breakdown of the key phytohormones: Auxins: Primarily involved in cell elongation, root initiation, and apical dominance. Gibberellins: Promote stem elongation, seed germination, and flowering. Cytokinins: Stimulate cell division and differentiation, and delay leaf senescence. Ethylene: Regulates fruit ripening, leaf abscission, and senescence. Abscisic acid (ABA): Plays a role in seed dormancy, stomatal closure, and stress responses. Brassinosteroids: Involved in cell elongation, division, and stress responses. Jasmonates: Regulate plant defense against pathogens and herbivores, as well as other processes. Salicylic acid: Plays a role in plant defense against pathogens. 1. Red and Far-Red Light (Phytochromes): Red light: Primarily activates the phytochrome system, converting it to its active form (Pfr), which promotes processes like stem elongation and flowering. Far-red light: Inhibits the phytochrome system by converting the active Pfr form back to the inactive Pr form. This can trigger shade avoidance responses and inhibit germination. Phytohormones: Red and far-red light regulate phytohormones like auxin and gibberellins, which are involved in stem elongation and other growth processes. 2. Blue Light (Cryptochromes and Phototropins): Blue light: Activates cryptochromes and phototropins, which are involved in various processes like stomatal opening, seedling de-etiolation, and phototropism (growth towards light). Phytohormones: Blue light affects auxin levels, influencing stem growth, and also impacts other phytohormones involved in these processes. Example: Blue light can promote vegetative growth and can interact with red light to promote flowering. 3. UV-B Light (UV-B Receptors): UV-B light: Perceived by UVR8 receptors, it can affect plant growth and development and has roles in stress responses, like UV protection. Phytohormones: UV-B light can influence phytohormones involved in stress responses, potentially affecting growth and development. 4. Other Colors: Green light: Plants are generally less sensitive to green light, as chlorophyll reflects it. Other wavelengths: While less studied, other wavelengths can also influence plant growth and development through interactions with different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Key Points: Cross-Signaling: Plants often experience a mix of light wavelengths, leading to complex interactions between different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Species Variability: The precise effects of light color on phytohormones can vary between different plant species. Hormonal Interactions: Phytohormones don't act in isolation; their interactions and interplay with other phytohormones and environmental signals are critical for plant responses. The spectral ratio of light (the composition of different colors of light) significantly influences a plant's hormonal balance. Different wavelengths of light are perceived by specific photoreceptors in plants, which in turn regulate the production and activity of various plant hormones (phytohormones). These hormones then control a wide range of developmental processes.

Sehr sehr schöne Verfärbung. Die etwas später angepflanzte Epsilon(Links) wächst buschiger und Kompakter als die erste (rechts).

Hey Growers. These girls are loving life and just cruising along. They’re stacking nicely and starting to fill out. This is so easy it’s dumb. Just Gaia green and cal mag water and a bit of monster bloom. The trichomes are starting to pour out!! Happy Growing 🌱