💩Holy Crap Growmies We Are Back💩 Well growmies we are at 35 days in and everything is going as good as can be 👌 👉 Sadly I'm thinking I may have something wrong with my Medium as i am having issues with all my girls this time around👍 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈

The little ones are developing well, unfortunately there are a few minor nutrient problems in the direction of Calmag with the Morello Cherries and also slight signs of this with the TerpyZ Punch. I counteracted this with a foliar spray. The pH value of the hydrosystem has unfortunately dropped a little to 5.5, which I have equalised with ph up from Plagron. The plants are currently getting light between 800-900 ppfd and as soon as the stretch starts, l'll increase this to 1000 ppfd. Both ladies are slowly starting to smell.

Not much to do with Autos. I take a handful of leaves everytime I'm in the tent. Veg thru 2-3 weeks of flower.

Mein erster versuch main-lining anzuwenden 😊 Lemon Cherry Gelatos haben mittlerweile 8 headbuds pro plant Denke mal werde sie noch einmal toppen um 16 headbuds zu erhalten

Fun time with this gal overall! Definitely going to go for a proper run of BanDad, not 12/12 from seed - next. Didn't yield much individually, but between all 4 plants it added up to be a decent bit. Already got another BanDad in my veg tent at about week 5!

Totally recovered from the topping last week, they are expanding a lot so im guiding them thru the net, i do notice a small deficiency of some nutrients, but of course as GHSC indicates in the package the food is for 8 weeks, so totally agree with their calculation, if everything goes alright im planning to turn them to flower in 2 weeks more or less, i still need during this week to remove all the lower branches and leaves which adds some stress and require again some recovering before switching to flower 🤗😁

16 days of slow drying each plant with the environment controlled inside the tent with 2 meters. I have two fans on, pointing at the floor to circulate the air temps - 20 - 23 º humid - 50- 60 %

My first attempt of growing with my own DIY setup. Specs : - PC box 19x42x43cm (after a few weeks I changed it with a bigger carton box) - 4 x Bridgelux Vero 10, 3000K, 9.1 Watts, 80 CRI, 270mA, 143Lm/W - Mean Well HLG-60H-C350B 70W LED driver - 100k Linear Potentiometer for dimming lights - Aluminum profile 30x7cm for mounting LEDs - ESP32 Dev Board - DHT22 temperature & humidity sensor - 2 x Noctua-NF-S12A for ventilation with PWM control by microcontroller - 3lt pot - Blynk IoT app for remote control Started germination of 1 feminized Northern Lights seed from SensiSeeds using paper towel method. Sprayed with some water and store it in small plastic food container. Seed popped after 24 hours and after 48 it was ready for pot. Unfortunately didn't take any photos of the process.

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Nearing the finish line! OMG these ladies are blowing me away 😳 the Tricomes are carpeted, the buds are fat and dense. I’ve been. Tapering off all the nutrients and feeding ph’d water until I get 10-15% runoff from the pot to help break up the pockets left behind and to use up what’s left in the plant. Have some very distinct phenos, all of them are stellar but there are a few standouts… won’t be much longer 🇨🇦👊❤️

Welcome to my Wedding Glue Auto Diary, sponsored by Fastbuds. With Spider-Farmer & Mars-Hydro providing the lights I've had 8 months -2.2yrs and all still as good as the day I fired them up. Veg Days 15-26 Plant has come on really nice. Building a lovely shape. Huge fan leafs. Will be removing about 10-15% this week. As I want her to put her focus on growing out her nodes. As they've enough foliage to support themselves. The 1st leafs/nodes 'removed stall didn't send her into an early flip. Id be happy if she was to flip this week. As she has enough height and veg in her without any signs of stigmata or sexing. Veg Days 27-28 Plant is moving along really nice. I can see some stigmata (hairs where bracts will be during pre flower). Maintenance Been giving 1 4-500ppm Alga Grow every 7-10 days. Fish Force and Silic Boost from Atami. EC has been kept in check with pure zym helping nutrient uptake. I've made she her pot doesn't or hasn't dried up too much. PH I don't messaure organic nutrients with soil. Siilic Boost was 6.6 so no need to adjust. I'm not keven sure what ph silica works best at. I jst see thick stems, strong lush green growth. And a resurgence in veg after she picked up foliage slowly in her 3rd week Thanks to my sponsors, Bella, Heather and Elena. 3 amazing women. Who I'm glad to have worked with. Its a pleasure to see them lead the way in tis industry. Showing pot really has no boundaries but ones we place on ourselves and in societies misgivings. I appreciate all who stop by. I look forward to seen your diaries. Either way thanks for dropping by.

Hey my friends and teachers I have had some minor light bleaching so I have raised the led lights as high as they go please tell me if that's cool or if I need to do more thanks guys

Giorno 55.Le due Kmintz da oggi prenderanno solo acqua ph 6.2. Hanno entrambe il 10% di tricomi ambrati e entro 7/14gg max verranno tolte. Ho proprio voglia di fumarle!!! Le due Watermelon sono più lente. Sicuro altri 20/25gg minimo. Alla prossima settimana e grazie del passaggio 😊

Well, as it's been 8 full weeks now it's time to change to flora, today the 24th of July 2023 I'm changing the time from vega to flora so they will take 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness thus starting the flowering phase, today I should have watered with top bloom from top crop but it ended up that I watered only with water and I'll wait for the next watering I'll already water with top bloom from top crop and let's see what these beautiful girls do, I was going to leave another time in vega another two weeks apparently i'm going to move so i don't know if i'm going to have much time left in this house so i'm going to take advantage of the time i have and already putting them to bloom

Granddaddy plant in week 6 of flowering. She is in full bloom. Bugs Issue: There are some old caterpillar holes on leaves but I think bugs situation improved. The smell from plant dropped last week after first round of insecticide spray. Smell is like plant crying out in pain after being attack by bugs. I sprayed spinetoram one more time in the beginning of the week. Late in the week, I used a USB microscope to check. And there was a Protoss tank patrolling a leaf on plant 2. On the bigger plant, I just saw carcass of dead mites strewn around. Prepping plant 2 for an early harvest. I am always happy on harvest day. Trim her and let the pot dry out for a couple of days. And plan to spray my garden with third and last round of spinetoram. Next week, I am going back to microbes. Plant 1 is doing fine. She is bigger and handles pests better. Her flowering cola’s also smell nicer. Plant 1 phenotypes is much better than plant 2. And I removed some leaves. This past week, I fed both plants with half strength potassium based orchid fertilizer. Plant 2 shows slight tip burn. So, this is the feeding limit. Plant 1 leaves are nice and green. A few leave started to yellow but I am not bothered by that issue at late flowering stage. Next week I’ll just give plant 1 a dose of yogurt and start pre-harvest preparations. Trimming, flushing, and all that. Transplanted a clone to 25-liters basket. She started to put our pistil. This is one issue with Mycorrhiza. It over stimulate the root. And root tips put our too much cytokinin that signals flowering.

* ************** Week 5 - May 9 to 15, 2020 - Days 29 to 35 from germination **************** * Nice growth week. Notice some brown spotting early in week. I felt that I could get the pH in line with feeding at 5.0 last week but it didn’t work. Flushed her early on as the pH was over 7.0 when testing the run off. On Sunday she was given a 43L flush to bring her down from the 7.2 she was found to be at. After the 43L she came down to 220ppm and 6.3pH. Going in was 60ppm and 4.4pH, used bottled water. Environment being kept over 60% has been a struggle some days but its coming. Still dialing in some of the light intensity this week by raising and lowering. One of the downsides to multiple strains in one environment but its good👌 Little more detail....... May 9/20 - Day 29 - 2L feed - CalMag, Piranha, VooDoo, Rezin, Liquid Weight @ 1ml, Massive, Dual Fuel @ 1.5ml/L - 1000ppm and 5.1pH going in. - Runoff numbers 530ppm and 7.2pH....too high - She was falling asleep a little early so I decreased the light intensity. - She is showing some signs of brown spotting - Tight node spacing.....see how stretch goes. May 10/20 - Day 30 - need some run off numbers as things are funky. - Flushing hard today - 43L flush going in over roughly half hour. 60ppm and 4.0pH - run off numbers were 220ppm and 6.3pH. - back in line.....keep the feeds light. May 11/20 - Day 31 - 1.5L feed - VeloKelp, Rezin, Liquid Weight @ 1ml, Dual Fuel @ 1.5ml - 900ppm and 4.3pH - She is falling asleep too soon. Roughly 2 hours early - Root mass still a little small and she cant take the nutrients quick enough?? May 12/20 - Day 32 - dry out day - let her be......as they say😀 May 13/20 - Day 33 - she likes it dry so.....give her another👊 - again.....let her be right now and let her grow May 14/20 - Day 34 - 4L feed - Rhino, CalMag @ 1ml, Rezin @ 2ml, Liquid Weight, Dual Fuel @ 1.5ml, Massive @ 3ml = 1075ppm and 5.3pH - run off numbers 575ppm and 6.6pH. - feel she is a little thick down low. Removed leaves in closer to main stem. - she is close to LST for the side branching. May 15/20 - Day 35 - dry out day - she has definitely started flower this week. - she is happy but not 100% tips up......keep working on the environment. Week 5 wrapped and on to week 6 now. She is one of the large girls in the grow and doing well. Big leaves and taking the nutrients well!!

Week 8 begins, the final feed! Divine storm 1&2 are both looking good, however DS1 appears to be a bit bigger in size and bud development. Both ladies are very frosty, I definitely understand the hype around in house genetics! Thanks for stopping by, tune in next week for the flush 👽🌳🔥

Day 65 - Starting week 10 and she’s definitely starting to fatten up a bit since lowering the lights for her. Already getting close to another round of water so most likely tomorrow, she’s drinking quite a bit lately. Day 66 - She was just about dried up already so gave her 2 gallons of plain pH’d water. Gonna start checking out the trichs soon, I’m thinking she’s down to about 2-3 weeks left but when the trichs tell me she’s done, I’ll chop her. Day 67 - Not much to do with her today, just some updated pictures and checked out the trichs for the hell of it and still mostly clear with a few milky scattered throughout. Day 68 - She’s gonna be ready for some water tomorrow, other than that, just been checking the trichs and tucking some leaves when I put her back in the tent. Day 69 - She was ready for water today and thinking she’s got about 10-14 days left, I went ahead and started the flush according to the Technaflora schedule. So mixed 5ML of MagiCal and 80ML of Sugardaddy with 2 gallons of water. Day 70 - Ending week 10 and she’s getting down to the wire. Still looking at about 7-10 days and everything is on track. Very few clear trichs in there, most are cloudy with a few amber scattered throughout.

Sour Jealousy Auto FastBuds 2025 Outside Grow Week 7 May 11-17 FLOWER 1 Sour Jealousy has started to flower. She is 18” now after a 6-inch spurt. She really benefitted from last week’s rain. This week’s weather has been cloudy and sunny but the temps ranged from 93 high and low of 53 at night. I watered and fed 2x with Kelp 30 ml/g and TPS1 4ml/g. I included some garden pics and some cool boats. I live in a coastal area with 6 bridges. Since maritime law still governs commerce, the boats have the right of way to vehicles. On this day I got stopped by the bridge opening and was close enough to see the boats. A parade were luxury yachts. Your likes and comments are appreciated. Thanks for stopping by. Growers love 💚🌿 💫Natrona💫