Havrested a bit before just becouse i needed to have a harvest before the full one

This week I've been increasing the nutrients per watering. I water every 24 hours or so. I divide 1450ml or a litre in a half between all three plants. The smell of this lemon haze is out of this world. The sweetest of sweet smells. And it has hints of purple color! I highly recommend this to anyone. I noticed that the lemon haze has started to gain a lot more bud density. The trichomes are still clear for the most part but I've noticed some amber I believe on the leaves. I think it may only have 2 weeks to go? Extremely sticky bud! The white widow seems to be about a week behind these 2 other girls, it seemed to flower/veg slightly longer. The white widow if it stacks well during the final weeks of flower should be a great yield :)

I came back after vacation, the girl is ready for cutting, the rainy weather has started, so there is a threat of rot, you can say I managed to find just a few small pits in time and removed them and threw them away, the big and stiff flowers look fantastic:) but after a long trip I was tired, so I didn't take quality photos :( no everything else, I am very satisfied with the result I got:) its smell already lets me know that it will be good:) a lot of sugar leaves from which I will make bubble hash:) I will update the weight when it dries.

fin...

Veg into week 2 running smoothly thus far. No signs of deficiencies or areas of concern. See following specs. Seedsman (Critical-Auto) - 6.0 Inches - Growing Tall - Healthy Fan leaves BlimBurn (Apple Fritter - Auto) - 5.5 Inches Growing wide - Stems thicker then average. Introduced Raw (NPK) Veg Part 2 (3.5g's per gal) - Assists with topping rebound Hard Topping LST should begin this week Coco topped with worm casting and perlite Light run - 18/6 Temps High 70 - Low 80's - Humidity - 78-91% Heavy on the Myco *End of week recap above* 08-11

This week shows a lot of stem growth as well as the presence of some clones! Too excited about how big the girls are getting have a feeling they are going to be getting bigger at a fast rate at this point. I am still keeping them on the same nutrient and light schedule at the moment. I have a lot more pictures and videos this week because lets be honest I am still getting the hang of this thang!

Perfetk

Close to the finish line..

June 30, 2020 update: Fast Buds Cream Cookies... I have a total of 4 Cream Cookies going right now - 2 outdoors and 2 indoors. All 4 have started to start showing small bud sites in the last week. I still consider this part of the vegetative stage personally. Once I've seen the stretch occur and also see dime sized buds, then I consider the plant to be in flower. The 2 indoors are bigger with more nodes and bushier overall. They are growing on a 19/5 light cycle under a 315w CMH. I feed them all the same regimen of nutrients (Fox Farm Trio at 75% recommended strength). If its raining, the indoor plants may get an extra feeding. We have gotten a lot of (much needed) rain this week so I think I've only fed once in the past week, but they seems to love the fresh rain too. The outdoor plants are 16-20" in height, the indoor are 20-22" in height. I have one indoor and one outdoor plant that both show some discoloration on the leaves. When I look it up it looks most similar to Tobacco Mosaic Virus (TMV) and there does not seem like there is much that can be done for TMV. I'm just gonna let them rock and see how they turn out. At this point my prediction is for a larger yield indoors, but I'm hoping for a better flavor and high from the outdoor. Also, I have a separate diary comparing only the Cream Cookies - check it out!!! 😃 Anyone interested in the other girls growing along side of the Cream Cookies can check out the other diary I have going "Dudes Summer Catch All Diary" I'm looking forward to next weeks update, I'm expecting lots of growth and more buds! I may also bend them all over at a 45 degree angle this week. I'll be using LST this time, instead of HST. The HST I performed on the Lemon Cream Kush seemed to be too harsh for her and had me worried for several days afterwards. Thanks for checking in! Please comment, like and feel free to ask any questions!💪

The first 7 days were good the plant is growing nicely. She just got fed for the first time with Goldleaf feterlizer. I had to raise the light higher because she is a little sensitive to the light.

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Plants are maturing this week but are yet to put on more weight.. .However they are good size already! One bud on my Banana Krumble is mutated and I am not sure what it is?

Hey growmies, It’s been 31 days since flipping to flower, my tent is filled with buds. I think I managed to recover this plant, if you look back to week 10 and 11 you can see this plant was struggling, losing her dark green colour and yellowing. I raised my lights, getting PPFD from 1100 down to 850, I have also started feeding organic nutrients. The organic nutrients alone will feed my plants, but my soil needed a recharge, too. I suspect a lot of the soil bacteria started dying back, so to try and replenish the ranks I topdressed with worm castings, and created a compost tea using molasses and organic worm castings. Neem oil was not enough to get rid of the few thrips I had, so I opted for Spinosad, an organic bioinsecticide which is derived from the fermentation juices of a soil bacterium called Saccharopolyspora spinosa I decided spinosad was the best option because it’s organic and safe to spray in flower, neem oil can’t go on flowers, reducing its effectiveness. After just one dose of spinosad applied in a foliar spray, My garden is pest free, and it looks like the tea and organic fertiliser is also getting color back into my plant. The smell so far is mainly skunk, no oranges (yet) but it's clear this run is back on track. The trichomes are okay, I've had frostier strains, I can still see new calyxes growing, so she's definitely still putting on more weight, it might be to early to call anything I also included some pictures of the clones, they really show what a difference ScrOGging makes, since the clones were topped once and let to grow naturally

Big dense main colas, orange creamsicle terps, nice yield, covered in resin.

Switching to 12/12 so the girls have the first week of flowering behind them, so far without any major problems, they are out in the world and it is a pleasure to look at them.

They're settling in to the pots nicely and the flower tent is about to be cleared out. Need to do some work around the tent before I can move them should be a week or 2.

Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.

White widow is still making progress. She is waiting on a flowering room. Everything is doing okay. Thank you Seedsman,Athena nutrition, and Medic Grow. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g.

Just letting them ripen up now. Will be partially harvesting a couple more branches that are really ready to go, in the next few days. Other than that they will all be ready around the same time, around a week or 2. On day 79, I partially harvested another one of the plants (different one than before). All the rest seem to be on track not need partial harvests. On track now to chop my first full plant on day 85. This plant has not yet been partially harvested like 2 of the others. I will be counting this as my “harvest” day as the others are not far behind and will be chopped in the next week or 2. Expect harvest details soon!

Hola! Our senorita has stopped growing. Is it sad? definitely. Do the buds look good? oh yes. The fern in the pot is growing better than my tequilita and that's ok. I'll monitor her buds to determine the right time to chop. Out of my 3 Ganja Farmer autos, she seems to be on schedule (despite the growth stop). Another month? Maybe. We'll see.