💩Holy Crap We Are Back At It And Loving It💩 Growmies we are at DAY 21 and she's just killing💀it👌 So Shit , I gave them just a tad to much nutes 👈 But I have since fixed it So I'm starting to pull her over and do some low stress training 🙃 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈

This weeks update! Grow tent- so I had a buddy do my res change I talked him through the whole process couldn’t make it to the grow this week. Number and everything where perfect but!. He didn’t close the valve all the way to the blue dream res tank and left the drain pump on🤦‍♂️🏾. So when I got there this week leaves where curling and brown thought it might be a nutrient issue. Opened the res to check it. And there was only about a gallon of water in there out of the usual seven. No major harm I was planning on doing my last defoliation to her this week anyway. But that could have been bad. They are both receiving half strength nutes of the ripening mix GH recommends. Would have been a perfect week if not for that. No harm no foul tho. But def bout to start pushing them on the flower nutes and get back up to my 1000 ppm range buy adding extra bloom formula! #Staykited

The plant has become really massive and the fruity smell it gives off is perhaps one of the most pleasant I've ever smelled. The plant drinks almost 2L of water per day. I changed the fertilizers by removing those not strictly necessary for the flower's energy, in order to make the plant use the vital lymph of the leaves, which will lose them further favoring the growth of the inflorescences. At the same time I added ADV Overdrive, a magnesium, phosphate and potassium based fertilizer which stimulates the weight gain of the flowers. For the hundredth day I decided to make a video, I'm definitely satisfied! I expect to cut the plant around the 10th week of flowering.

5/12/21 Week 1 of flower 10 of life. Checked fluids 6.01ph, and 390tds. Plant seems ok were I split stem. Will give dose of recharge later this evening. Now on a 12/12 cycle. The watering volume per hour is not letting me go over 2.6 gallons per day. My pump is recirculating water at 200 gallons/hr it runs 15 minutes 2x day. So 50 gallons 2x day or 100 gallons per day. 5/13/21 will start foliar feeding tonight at lights out. Using TPS Canopy boost. Will use for 3 weeks every 3-4 days. Changed water to bloom nutrients. Ph 6.01 tds 710. 5/15/21 ph 6.18 tds 570. Will get dose of recharge this evening. Plants leaves are almost touching side to side in tent. 5/16/21 added water (4 gallons) can't believe she went through that much in 3 days. Ph 5.85 tds 689. Will get a foliar feeding tonight at lights out. 5/18/21 changed nutrients water. PH 5.96 TDS 680. Leaves of plant are now touching all 4 walls of 4x4 tent.

Lots of fattening up this week. This girl is looking fat for such a small plant. Gonna ease up on nutes this next week, and hopefully there'll be a harvest next week!!! Issues with the leaves seems to have stopped after adjusting pH and adding some calmag.

Der erste Outdoor Run wird mit dem Frühling eingeläutet💪🏻 Hoffentlich spielt das Wetter mit und lässt die Ladys gut wachsen. 3 von 4 Samen sind gekeimt. Der zweite StrawberryBanana der nicht gekeimt ist, wurde jetzt nochmal in ein Glas mit Wasser. Wenn der Samen nach 24h immernoch nicht keimt, kommt er weg. Aber diese Chance soll er noch bekommen💪🏻🍀. Die GorillaAuto ist auch noch nicht ganz übern Berg, ich bin aber guter Dinge. Als Ersatz für die StrawberryBanana wurde eine LemonCherryCookies nachgelegt. Drücken wir ihr die Daumen. Die wird dann ein eigene Story bekommen. Die Ladys werden die ersten ca 2 Wochen in relativ kontrollierter Umgebung angezogen. Wenn es in die Endtöpfe geht, geht es für die Ladys nach draußen. Erst etwas im Sonne/Schatten Mix und wenn sie sich dann an die Sonne gewöhnt haben, sollen sie möglichst viel Sonne bekommen und werden minimal verstellt. Zwischen 3 und 4 Tagen nach dem Setzen der Samen haben die Ladys das Licht der Welt erblickt. Möge die erste Woche beginnen🍀💪🏻

Well My friends gave me a bigger tent so I got a little more time to let them develop! I'm very ready to take them down just waiting a bit longer for a few more amber trichomes. I'm still feeding them ripen but i wish last week i'd given them a feed in addition too. They look nice in the new tent, there is loads more room, and while the lighting didn't go up as much as I'd like, They have a nice big fan oscillating on them now and room to stretch. ________________________________________________________________ I suppose I'm glad I waited. I wanted to take a few more pics and get one last video in! I'm def seeing a bit more amber in the trics and i think it will make em a bit better for these 2 extra waterings! Probably gonna chop them soon!!!!

What up fam, weekly update on these lovely ladies. I put the scrog net out this week for support and am I glad I did. Only after a couple days they grew right through it. The greenhouse is 6'5 feet tall and they're pushing 5'6. I'll go in there and take off some of the lower fan leafs at the bottom but not to much defoliation needed. I'm seeing preflowers so I'll also switch the nutes from grow to bloom. All in all Happy Growing.

Flowers continue to stack

Added yellow sticky fly traps to all cubes as a preventative measure to avoid infestation of fungus gnats. So far none have been spotted. Defoliated and did a little more LST to all the plants to open up the center and give more light to lower shoots. Blue Dream 3 and Chemdawg 3 started showing some discoloration on the leaves (yellowing around the veins) and also the leaf tips curling down. Did some research and came up with this... Possible diagnosis: - Yellowing around leaf veins could be a sign of Magnesium or Iron deficiency - Leaf tip curling down could be a sign of Nitrogen Toxicity. - Both could be caused by improper ph balance in water Possible solutions: - Applied Botanicare CalMag+ as a foliar feed and added some to the reservoir. CalMag+ contains Calcium, Magnesium and Iron. - Diluted nutrients in reservoir to lower amount of nitrogen being fed to plants. Was feeding them at 1300ppm, lowered it to 1050ppm - Tested runoff and saw it was coming out at 5.4pH so I increased the pH in the reservoir to 6.0. Now the runnoff is testing at 5.7pH, meaning that my rootzone is in the optimal range of 5.5-5.8 Well wait and see how the plants react to these slight tweaks. Hopefully we start to see a nice healthy even green again.

I put the plants under the Electric Sky 180 V2 I kept only 4 plants because one was growing really slow compare to the others and another turned out to be a automatic plant so i took it away as well. I am keeping 2 phenos of the Nanaz x BBC and 2 ot the Humboldt Headband.

Fast and easy harvesting. I let it dry before trimming to make this part easier. We did earlier defoliation and gentle lollipoping so there wasn't too much work left after that. I would have liked to give it a few more weeks of ripening but it started to get too hot. Very pleased with the result and I think it can be given even more potential!

Flower girl is amazing

Start and end of week 4 of veg. Super green and healthy plants. Everyday a couple cm in height.

Week 3 for our strawberry gorilla 🦍 from fastbuds 🍁 We removed the 2 lower branches and leaves. We gave some master root this week. Some of the plants already showed the first preflowers, flowering is starting soon! We also placed a net above just in case we need to sustain the buds in later flowering

First week of flowering in the bag, trying out a new deep voice in my videos does it sound sexy? Let me know in the comments. seeing a little bit of stress on the leaves, but nothing major. The new developing growth is green so everything seems to be going well. I’m gonna give it another week and then I’ll defoliate. So far so good. having a little trouble reversing the wrath rock, candy icy cuts. but I’m not worried. I have backups of the mothers and I have backups of those backups so I’ll definitely still be able to take another shot after seeing the results from this grow ….

Zebrałem 98g sprawdzane po curring 4tyg. Smak mocno owocowy ale na końcu jest dość ciężki. Dobrze klepliwa indica. Uwielbiam. Dzięki Barneys Farm za świetną pestkę. Jest to. Moja pierwsza uprawa w życiu. Pozdrawiam Essa

March 1, 2024 Day 15 Lots to do today. I added nutrients, changed the watering schedule, increased the light intensity, adjusted the light power level and readjusted the height. I've also changed the environment slightly. Starting with watering and nutrients. As I said last week, I changed the watering schedule from 250 ml daily to 500 ml pHed to 6.0 every other day. It's the same amount of water, but a different application. It should help keep the soil moist from top to bottom slowly. 2 more of these 500 ml waterings should put the containers to runoff and then I stop and install the bottom feed systems. Moving on to nutrients. I've started them in their regimen for the veg stage. 2 ml/ gallon of each of the Advanced Nutrients 3 part base solution plus 2 ml/gal Advanced Nutrients Sensi Cal/Mag Xtra. That will be added every other watering. And the Recharge will be added at the start of every week. Next is the lighting changes. Increased light power from 30% to 40% Light height is now 28" DLI: 22.7 mol/m²/d PAR: 350 ppfd This in turn brings me to the last change of the environment. The temp will stay roughly the same between 76° and 77° for the whole of the veg stage with the RH hovering between 60% and 62%. I'm also going to try to increase the night temp to 70° and turn off the humidifier to keep the RH at 60% during lights out. That's all for today. Grow System Environment: Temp: 73.3° RH: 60.3% VPD: 1.09 kPa March 2, 2024 Today I'm having a debate with myself. The containers aren't heavy enough for the plants ages. So I'm thinking maybe 250 ml one day and 500 ml the next. And so on until the containers are moist enough. So 250 ml today at some point. And because they are starting to show signs of nitrogen deficiency now, I think I'll have to keep the nutrients in for the rest of the week. Next week, when the pots are full, I'll then switch to feed every other watering. Lighting is looking spot on. They are reaching slightly and look perfect. Next week, I think I'll increase the light power up to 60%. There should be plenty of foliage to capture all the light. I'll also be starting training by the end of this week and into next week. Whenever they get tall enough to touch the side of the containers, is when I'll start training. I have air circulation, but not blowing directly on the plants yet. Hopefully that keeps the stalk malleable so I can comfortably be d them down as needed. I may also top them. I have discovered that a topped plant for me means a huge harvest. Every plant I have ever accidentally topped or mangled has provided wonderful yields. I had a Zkittlez that gave me 6.5 oz, a 6 oz Skywalker and the best so far, a Gorilla Cookies that yielded 21.5 oz! That being said, I feel like it's in my best interest to top them and go from there. However, I won't be topping right away. I find that the breaks happen during training when there's a good amount of branches. It's accidental, but still works wonders. We shall see how things go over the next 2 weeks. That should be it for veg, 2 more weeks. Finally, the nutrient regimen. Because the plants are suffering a small amount of nitrogen deficiency, I may increase the dose to 3 ml/gal instead of the 2 ml/gal. I'm also thinking about doubling the dose of Cal/Mag. The deficiency isn't bad, but I'm not 💯 certain what the deficiency is. Nitrogen or Cal/Mag. One of the three or maybe an iron issue. That should be fixed with the nutrients. Update: I decided to water in 250 ml after all. I didn't water at the base though. I feel that is crucial in not overwatering the young plants. When I water the 500 ml tomorrow, I'll water the base. It seems to be working. Also, I am wondering if I should do a foliar spray with the nutrients just to help speed up the nitrogen intake. I'll have to research if I should or not. Grow System Environment: Temp: 74.1° RH: 60.9% VPD: 1.10 kPa March 3, 2024 Both plants are now showing signs of nitrogen deficiency. I'm not surprised, but still, I need to fix it. So I increased the dose from 2 ml to 3 ml for the whole regimen except for the Recharge. That stayed the same. They got their 500 ml watering today as scheduled. The bases were also watered. Hopefully with the nitrogen coming in, they don't stunt. The soil moisture is about half way down the container. today's watering may bring it down to 75% of the container. I'll have to check later on after the soil has time to absorb. Technically it should drop in a few hours from the 43% it is now to about 35%. That's how I know the lower soil has absorbed the water. Tomorrow I'll do another 250 ml without watering at the base. This seems to be working quite well. I think I'll be good by the end of the week for watering. The basins will be installed next week I think. The plants should be big enough for the bottom feed system by then. Other than the nitrogen deficiency, they are beautiful and growing very nicely. I did notice that A is a tiny bit smaller than B and the leaves are a slightly different shape. Different phenome maybe? I'll find out. I had to raise the light up an inch as well. I'm trying to keep the DLI at 22.7 mol/m²/d for the next day or two. I will most likely increase the power to 50% tomorrow and mess with the distance. That way, when I transition to 60% next week and increase the DLI, it should go smoothly. The environment is spot on and has been for a couple of days now. Let's hope for less wonky weather for the next few weeks. The temp is hovering around 77° during the day and 70° during lights out. The RH is staying strong at 61% day and night. Very happy with that. I did increase it to 62% yesterday to keep the temp in check. Worked like a charm. Grow System Environment: Temp: 75.5° RH: 62.1% VPD: 1.11 kPa March 4, 2024 I have found my differences between the the plants. BPP A is slower to grow and has thinner leaves. I feel like this may be a sativa leaning phenome. It makes sense. Sativa's take longer and they have thinner leaves. But because this strain is a hybrid, the leaves aren't as thin. She only has one set of leaves and the first node hasn't opened up yet. Could be stunted or as I'm thinking, but it's still slower. Either way, I'm going to keep an eye on this one. If it's a stunt or a dwarf, I'm not keeping it. I'll toss it and make room for the other plants in the tent. BPP B is further along with fatter leaves and already on its second node. I can already see the branches popping out. So things are moving along nicely. However, I feel like she isn't growing as fast as she can and that's definitely my fault for not adding nitrogen a bit earlier than I did. She still has beautiful green leaves. And looks super healthy. Beautiful stalk. Nice and thick. They got their 250 ml watering today without watering the base. I guess I could just say that the 250 ml never gets watered on the base. Anyway, they still need more water. If the 500 ml doesn't do it tomorrow, I'll do another 500 ml the next day. And the day after as well. I really want a bit of runoff before I install the basins. Both plants are slightly leaning in toward the center of the light. That tells me I need to either rotate or raise the light and increase the power. But I think I'll have to increase the footprint so the outside of the plants get the light they need. Also, when the basins gets installed, the plants will spread out to their own quadrant. Frankly, I'd really like the bar style light from AC Infinity. The board style is too concentrated in the center. Anyway, I'll hold off on the installation for next week. I may rotate later today to get the plants to stand straight up. I may increase the Grow base for tomorrow's watering. I'd like to get more nitrogen in the plants earlier rather than later. Plus I'm pretty sure I won't be able to poison them with any toxicities. They are definitely low on everything. It should fix soon, but I need growth now. So I may do the additional grow base afterall. One thing I would happily like to mention is the environment. This is the first grow I've ever done that has had a super level environment. Very little variation from day and a from night. RH stays basically the same from day to night at around 61% and 62%. The day and night temps are also spot on. Day time temp is around 77° and 78° with night temp being around 69° and 70°. It's perfect. I increased the light intensity to 450 ppfd today. I increased the light power up to 50% and moved the light up a bit to compensate. As mentioned before, this should help fix the lean the plants have. I may also turn my supplemental lighting on and bring it to the top of the canopy. I might be able to decrease the power level on the main light and save some money on the electric bill. DLI: 27.2 mol/m²/d PAR: 420 ppfd (completely on purpose 🤣) Power: 50% That's all for now. A bit to do today Grow System Environment: Temp: 76.0° RH: 61.7% VPD: 1.15 kPa March 5, 2024 Both plants are looking really nice. However, I'm still a bit concerned with Banana PP A. She's still not opening her second set of leaves. On the other hand, Banana PP B is looking great. They are both getting close to the edge of their containers. Right on que. In 2 days, they should be big enough to install the basins. Hopefully the roots will be close to the bottom where the wicks can work their magic. I watered in 500 ml today. I decided that I needed to increase the nutrients as we are coming to the end of week 2. So now I have all nutrients at 4 ml/gal except the Recharge of course. I may increase that for next week. I'm not sure that I've caught up to the nitrogen issue. I had to move the light up a half inch today. Not much, but I'm keeping the PAR at 420 ppfd until next week. The environment is spot on for the week so far. 78° and 60.5% humidity for the day so far. As for last night, temp at 70.7° and 62.5% humidity. Grow System Environment: Temp: 76.1° RH: 61.9% VPD: 1.14 kPa March 6, 2024 Good day today. Saw some major movements today. Lots of growth overnight and beautiful looking plants. They each got 450 ml of water today. I watered at the base anyway as I need the soil to be moist ASAP. I didn't mess with the lighting today. I'll check tomorrow to see if it needs to be lifted. As always, the environment looks great. Nearly spot on. Today is a bit warmer out and the temp is around 78° in the tent. Nothing I can't fix in a snap. Grow System Environment: Temp: 75.9° RH: 61.7% VPD: 1.15 kPa March 21, 2024 Both ladies got their watering today. I increased the base grow nutrient to 8 ml for this watering. I also spaced out the waterings. I did 250 ml then waited an hour and added the other 250 ml. I also increased the Recharge to half a teaspoon from a quarter a teaspoon. Lighting is still fine. I'll be increasing the power and intensity tomorrow. So each plant is showing slight signs of nitrogen deficiency. It didn't get too far along, but still has a slight deficiency. The colors are nice and green still. I'd also like to note that Banana PPA is still a little bit behind. Not much, but still a bit. She's still the same height as the other one, so that's good. Environment is looks great as usual. No issues and definitely staying in my range. Tomorrow I'll be dropping the RH down to 58% but keeping the temp around 77° for the week. I'd also like to note that both plants have been rotating all on their own. It's intriguing how they are doing that. I'll have to start rotating in a couple weeks when they get bigger. Unless I have to run a net, then no rotation obviously. Still super interesting. Grow System Environment: Temp: 75.5° RH: 61.5% VPD: 1.13 kPa

Week 8 (17-3 to 23-3) 17-3 Temps: 17.4 to 21.9 degrees Humidity: 60% to 72% 18-3 Temps: 17.5 to 22.2 degrees Humidity: 54% to 65% 19-3 Temps: 17.9 to 22.4 degrees Humidity: 52% to 61% Watering: Both 500 ml. EC: 0.4 Watering: Both 1000 ml. EC: 1.4 Defoliated both plants and attached some shoots to the rack. She got really big fan leaves! I also supercropped some branches. 20-3 Temps: 18.2 to 22.8 degrees Humidity: 59% to 69% 21-3 Temps: 18.5 to 23.4 degrees Humidity: 57% to 67% Watering: Both 1000 ml. 22-3 Temps: 19.4 to 24.1 degrees Humidity: 55% to 67% Watering: Both 1000 ml. Set the strength of the light to 50% 23-3 Temps: 19.8 to 24.8 degrees Humidity: 58% to 67% Watering: Both 1000 ml. As you can see, instead of removing the leaves, i tucked down all the leaves to open up the canopy. I will see if i like this method as its the first time i try this. I also attached some more shoots to the rack, its looking nicely spread out now :) The #2 makes my fingers very sticky and smells really strong! I love it!

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.