The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Today is day 23 of flower. So I've been chasing a minor P-K deficiency. The plants are happy and healthy and are just feeding heavy at the moment. Well over and above any recommended servings with respect to the dry amendments and water soluble P-K inputs. As with any grow regardless of what you're using for inputs (organic amendments/salt based bottle feeding/crop salts/etc....) the recommended feed rates are never anything more than a baseline. So to remedy the deficiency I added the Flower 2 at 1.5 times the reccomended dosage (3 grams per liter of water) and a little over twice the dosage of Gaia Green 2-8-4 Power Bloom dry amendments (250ml per 7 gallon pot). I also fed a mung bean/barley seed sprout tea as well as a compost tea (2/3 of a cup of each seed). The feed rates will stay well above recommended servings for the Flower 2 but the 250ml addition of the 2-8-4 would be considered a large addition for a single serving so I will give the plants 5-7 days to see how they react to dry amendments before top amending again at any rate (you cant burn your plants with organic inputs but you can still suffer nutrient lockout so you need to be mindful and patient when feeding heavy.) On day 19 of flower I did a large pruning/defoliation/lollipopping of the plants. Both from the top of the pot to the bottom of the first layer of trellis removing everything. I also cleaned the plants out from above the first layer of trellis netting to the top of the plant. As I waited to clean up the bottom third of the plants until my typical strip day in flower (day 18-21 depending on strain and flowering times, these are 9 week strains which is why the strip falls in the day 18-21 range, if they were 8 week finishers the leaf strip would take place somewhere between days 14-16). When running multiple layers of trellis netting it's best to prune/lollipop everything below the first layer of netting about 7-10 days before the flip. Odds are your lights wont penetrate that far down the plant so these areas of the plant typically only produce what's commonly known as larf. I'm running new lights so I decided I'd wait until the big strip I always do in flower. This was grower error. I know better and wont make this mistake again. Its unnecessary stress added during flower that could've been prevented. As I decided to wait to clean out the bottoms I didnt prune the plants as aggressively as I normally would (I adopted Grand Master Levels leaf strip practices years ago, check him out on IG or YouTube if you want to see what that looks like). The week went smoothly with no major issues to report. The seasons are changing here so were getting rain, damp wet snow, and have very humid conditions outside. As a result this affects the atmosphere in my grow room but not enough to cause concern. A little less than 6 weeks until the chop!
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The three Bruce Banner Autos are each showing their own character this week 😅. #1 is still the champ – so vigorous that I started some LST to open her up. She reacted perfectly and is already taking up a good part of the tent.💪🔥 #2 finally seems to have found her rhythm and is starting to grow more steadily. #3 is still very small with barely any progress compared to her sisters.🐌 They are all growing in their 90×90 tent equipped with the full AC Infinity setup (AI controller, fans, filters) and running under a Spider Farmer SE5000. Conditions are very stable thanks to the climate control: temps around 26–27 °C and humidity steady.🌡️💧 This week they only got RO water + CalMag (Advanced Nutrients). Their first Orgatrex feeding was already given last week.🌿 Overall: Bruce Banner #1 is leading the way, #2 is on the right track now, and #3 still lags behind. Curious to see how they will behave as they move closer to the first signs of flower.👀✨
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2024-06-18 Oh yes this Ladies love to grow. In and outdoor looking extremly nice. i think iam going to Plant the outdoor in Open ground. The Indoor lady shows sweet preflowers, and performs fantastic. i love her structureand vigourness. BREEDER INFO Tangerine Snow F1 Fast Feminised is a 75% sativa, four-way cross of (Boost x Tangelo) with (Lavender x Power Plant). This Fast F1 hybrid is bred from Cali genetics and boasts great citrus terps, high resin production for extracts, high levels of THC, very good yields and excellent mould resistance. Tangerine Snow F1 Fast can be grown indoors as well as outdoors. Indoor flowering times are between 8 - 10 weeks while harvest time in northern latitudes is during September while in the southern hemisphere growers will be harvesting during March. Recommended climate regions are hot, dry, humid and warm. These are tall, semi-branched plants that grow in excess of 200cm and display a high degree of vigour with very good uniformity. In common with many other heavily sativa-dominant strains, Tangerine Snow F1 Fast offers excellent resistance to mould as well as to plant pests and diseases. The combination of citrus terps and plenty of resin makes thi a very good extract strain with the 'washing' method delivering very good yields of hash. The citrus terpene profile is reminiscent of mandarins and tangerines and also has sweet candy notes. THC production has been lab-verified at a strong 24% while CBD is low. The effect is uplifting and energising, perfect for use during the day and early evening.
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This week went real great, 2 ogreberrys and Bruce banner got trimmed up an jarred ! We chopped the 3 other Ogreberrys on Sunday the 14th , they will hang out to dry for 14 days ! Stay tuned for next update! More trimming an weight an overall photos! Cheers to y’all 😶‍🌫️💨💨💨💨
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Ladies and gentlemen we are on day 82 and this girl is no more, through the loophole I can't find one clear trichome I understand the white hairs but I also understand the trichomes is what we go by.. also wanted to get her down because I was worried of possible root issues and did not want to ruin such a beautiful little plant.. Divine seeds has some great genetics this thing was topped and in such a small cup handled the training well and rewarded me with what I'm assuming is going to be between 28 and 35 grams so I'm thinking over a gram per ounce of dirt that's not too shabby.. I hope everyone in the contest is doing well and I hope everyone else is doing just as good.. we are all in this together, to be able to grow our own medicine at our own discretion and know what we're smoking is worth its weight in gold.. again big shout out to Divine Seeds for putting together this competition I thought I would do something a little different to stand out by doing a mini pot grow I don't know if it'll get me a trophy or not but it was sure fun growing it and was very beneficial to me in my personal development as a grower.. until next time folks and a month or so I will have the smoke report.. I tried to upload today for another strain and it wasn't working so hopefully grow diaries fixes the bug of not being able to update a smoke report.. happy growing everyone ✌️😎 ladies and gentlemen after 8 days of drying I trimmed her up today and as you can see from the video 46 g or 1.625 Oz which is extremely good considering the small amount of medium... Now I know during the cure I will probably lose around 1/8 of my total weight but still I will be definitely over 40 grams my guess will be at least 42 to 43 .. now for 28 Oz of soil I could not be happier.. between the genetics being great and the plants loving my feeding remedy all has been well.. I want to thank Divine seeds for throwing such an awesome contest and giving us enough time to do it right and also for providing the seeds but not just that they really hooked it up.. Big ups to them and I have more genetics that I will be running from them in the future.. hope everyone is doing well good luck to everyone in the contest and to everyone happy growing ✌️😎
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I am well happy with the yield from this one auto flower it is all nice dense bud as well🤙🙏👍 I'm going to cure for about four to six weeks and then be back with a smoke update
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This strain is just incredible, perfect indica high with a sativa sidenote It grows strong and is quite resistent to mold. All plants were done after about 60 days of flowering. First time i used a tumble trimmer and it works perfectly. I didn't check PH or EC at all
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@Autower
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Another day another week and coming along nicely only difference this week is I have started pumping some overdrive through them now seems as it’s week 6 flower. 2 weeks on that then hopefully ready for a flush with pure water and a few days dark then harvest time. I’ve got a feeling the papaya is going to be ready before the cookies waiting for.my microscope for my phone to come then will update with some pictures of the trichomes.
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High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.
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Couple weeks from germination 🌱🎩🌈🍬
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@Dmars
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11/22 Day 31 from flip. Today is the first day that I took a tape measure from the lights to the topmost part of the canopy and I haven’t seen a change. I’ll check again tomorrow but I’m really hoping the stretch is finally done. I still have about 10 inches of space between the lights and canopy so I think I’ll be ok with that. I took the chance to do what is hopefully a near final defoliation of a few leaves and some smaller sucker branches that won’t amount to much. Everything still looks super healthy, no red anywhere on any stems and no discoloration on the leaves. Everything is spot on. Light adjusted to 840 PAR / 36.3 DLI. 11/25 Day 34 from flip. I made some adjustments to my nute mix to be more firmly at 1.3 EC, which means I’ve added some additional nutes into the mix. I also tested runoff EC and discovered things were spiking a bit more than I’d like. So I mixed up a few batches of my new mix and I’ve been feeding every few hours to flush things out a little bit. I’ve brought it down from 1.9 to 1.5 so far after this. I may finally need to break down and set up some timers to feed multiple times throughout the day. Obviously once a day is not getting done right now. 11/26 Day 35 from flip. I finally got the timer hooked up to my pump to begin automatic watering. For now, I have it set to water at noon for a minute when the lights come on, a 2 minute pause to let that settle, and then 30 seconds more to make sure both are fully saturated. The second fertigation event will be at 6:00 for 45 seconds, and then right before lights off another 45 seconds. I’ll have to keep an eye on it to see if I need to adjust any more for now. I haven’t adjusted the lights since last time, but the latest reading is 885 PAR / 38.2 DLI at the highest point of the canopy. It’ll stay there for now.
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March, 30th The lambsbreath was transplanted today into 20l Airpot She was growing so fast, that she needed a bigger Pot I added some Living Organics to enrich my Soilmix After that she got anice benefical Drink Lights are running on 50 Percent, distance to the Plant is 40 cm Happy growing Amazon US: XS1000 10% off: it10mlarimar http://yx-8.cn/0y-6 XS1500 5% off: it15mlarimar http://yx-8.cn/0yA XS2000 5% off: it20mlarimar http://yx-8.cn/0y2Y XS4000 5% off: it40mlarimar http://yx-8.cn/0y5k Amazon Canada XS1000 10% off: it10mlarimar https://amzn.to/38udUVe XS1500 5% off: it15mlarimar https://amzn.to/3esVUyr XS2000 5% off: it20mlarimar https://amzn.to/3l5zAfg XS4000 5% off: it40mlarimar https://amzn.to/3l7k5Uj
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@Bdog7878
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Other than battling some bud rot on both the Mimosa x orange punch plants are doing good. I've just been cutting a couple buds with very start of rot im going to harvest the mop#1 next weekend and the mop #2 the weekend after. The buds are getting big and the trics are super sticky and frosty. I'm just starting to see some amber trics on the mop #1. I've been reducing the ferts slightly on all the mop #1 had its last fertilizer 8 days ago. I've made a canopy for the plants for when it rains as every time it rains i get more rot no matter what i do I've tried shaking them blowing lightly with a leaf blower. But its too be expected with strains that produce big heavy buds.
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I am really happy that the plant is so beautiful. I am 100% sure that in better conditions it can give even more, now there is little time left to harvest. bye growers OKeyyy now the harvest day is 23/05! i love this strain ! looking for the second plant ;D
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Gorilla Glue #1 - Harvest Comment - I Am Very Satisfied With What I Got, I got 3 ounce 7 grams - I Uses Advance Nutrients PH perfect In veg then I switch to the iguana juice organic juice for the flowering stage. I notice a much more slower growth when I switch to organic nutrients.00
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@Ninjabuds
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Not a lot to update the seedlings have came up out the soil at this point they are still to small to tell any visible differences. I started all the seeds from all 10 packs and and I put 26 of them in soil I now have about 20 of them left I still have atleast one left if every strain. I just kept the 20 plants that all started off at the same time it’s so much easier when there is not some plants behind from the rip. In a few days I will pick out the best one from each of the 10 strains and toss the rest so sad there is a plant count here.