The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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@XanHalen
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Dec 12: Growth has been good, leafs started yellowing as I tried a regular watering as opposed to a feed, and they did not take well to it. I’ve read that it’s good to incorporate waterings between feeds, but 24hr later noticed a bit of yellowing on the lower section, 48hr post watering even more yellowing. Dec 18: Going with feed only and yellowing has halted, stretching has officially begun. No adverse effects from the short term nitrogen deficiency (that’s what I narrowed it down to). Playing with budsites to maintain an even canopy, and as soon as I see stretching halt, and fattening begin, I will up the bloom nutes. Dec 20:
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Banana purple punch has really put on the frost! She’s smelling absolutely amazing,looking great and sticky as ever. Day by day I can see her getting chunkier and chunkier. She gives off that fruity smell that’s forsure🔥
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Hi 👋 growers !! This week ad new light I received from marshydro the amazing ts 3000 girls seems to enjoying their time with this new light ✨🔥 I strongly recommend this model the light spectrum is complete and the value for money is really incredible👌🌱 Flowering time now just ad 2ml/l of calmag. Northernlight she’s really fast all ready forming buds !!🤩 Tente ⛺️ : marshydro 120/120/2m Light 💡 : marshydro ts 3000 Genetics : - 5 girls scoot cookies auto, Seedstocker - 3 runtz auto, Zamnesia - 2 northernlight auto, Seeds Mafia Soil : coco mix 50% Cannaterra light mix 50% Promo code zamnesia 10%off: 🔥🔥⭐️✨ GROWITGD✨⭐️🔥🔥 Marshydro discount code : ⭐️⭐️🔥Only4passion 🔥⭐️⭐️ Thanks all for the likes n comments happy to share with you all growers 🙌🍀💪💪🍀👊
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first strain runtz start 11/03 indoor, now outdoor guerrilla... hope for a good season second strain watermelon zkittlez, hope for better wheater (actually indoor). sicilianguerilla
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Entering a new week :) Some lower leaf yellowing but overall very healthy. I wonder what to expect in terms of bud growth since this is my first time growing a regular plant. I'll have my microscope ready to check tricohomes in a few weeks Any comments or insights are always welcome Will probably post more photos later this week I'm happy with my CMH lamp. I don't want to give my plants a gimmicky light spectrum in flower
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@Sauce_XL
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1.20.2024: Time to gives this a go. 2.3x2.3 tent, XS1500 light, 2 gal fabric pots. Pots filled with FFOF(90%) & Perlite(10%.) Don't ask me why I chose 90/10. Nutrents are the FF Trio. Also growing a freebee seed from Humboldt Seed Co(Emerald Fire OG Auto.) Decided to germinate directly into the medium. Light is at 50% power at 2.5ft from the top of the pot(s). I'll have the light running 24hrs until it sprouts(fingers crossed it does.) I sprayed the top soil with pH 6.5 water when i stuck the seeds in then placed clear plastic cups over the seed location. My 4inch fan is on the way and it comes with a monitor for temp and humidity....no idea what current stats are. Just hope the damn thing spouts. Fingers crossed. More to come. 1.23.2024: 3 days and still no sprout. Going to give it another day or two before i go fishing for them. Off to a fantastic start! 1.24.2024: They've finally popped....aaaaannnddd we're off! 1.25.2024: Took the lil domes off, opened 2/3 vents for some circulation. Been misting the top soil just to keep it moist with 6.5ph water. I also "bottom fed" 12oz of water just to keep things lubricated. On the fence about when to give the plants a proper watering. Might keep things going "as is" for the next two days. Inline fan and associated hygrometer comes tomorrow(1.26) so i'll finally have an idea on what the current stats are in the tent. Will make adjustments at that point in time. Light is 2.5 ft from soil at 50%. 1.26.2024: Inline fan came yesterday. Only set up the probe just to understand temp and humidity. With the light at 50%, 2 ft from the soil, all vents closed except one(1) port at the top, my current temp hovers around 79 and the RH is 50%. After setting up a humidifier, i'm now running 75 degrees, 64% RH and VPD .58. All within tolerance. I can already tell it will be a delicate dance managing heat, exhaust fan speed and humidity. Still haven't given the plant more than 2 cups of water and i'm only watering when the soil is dry. Tomorrow(1.27) marks 1 week since the seed was dropped. Plan is to lightly water the entire pot when dry for the next week or until growth really kicks in.
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@Chubbs
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420 Fastbuds Cherry Cola Week 10 These lovely ladies are getting super close to being finished. Starting to get a little foxtailing I believe for lowering my lights. I'll be chopping them this coming week to start the drying process. They are so sticky it's unbelievable. All in all I'll say they're coming along great even the one with messed up leafs. Happy Growing
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End of Week 4, Defoliated and more training, first feed at 378 ppm. Humidity is high so added the dehumidifier. Hoping for another week of veg before flower but some are looking ready to go. Just started another journal with Papaya Cookies and Pound Cake.
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7/10/24 testing testing. can i post updates now? beautiful buds. the leaves are changing into a blue color. it reminds me of some of the blue city diesel i got from a buddy back in the medical days.
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@Thckaos
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21-11-20 Se cambia la solución y se realiza un lavado de raíces. Para bajar la conductividad de las raíces de 1.95 a 0.2 ms para que la solución nueva sea más efectiva. Se corrige el PH de 6.5 a 5.6. La solución tiene 1.95 ms y 5.6 PH. Se añade una pastilla de CO2. 22-11-20 Se corrige el PH 5.90 a 5.60 Conductividad 1.40 ms. 23-11-20 Se corrige el PH 5.90 a 5.60 Conductividad 1.33 ms. 25-11-20 Se corrige el PH 5.60 Conductividad 1.40 ms. Se queda sin agua, se echar una solución con 1.34 ms y PH 5.6 26-11-20 Se corrige el PH 5.80 Conductividad 1.40 ms. 27-11-20 Se corrige el PH 5.10 a 5.80 Conductividad 1.20 ms. 28-11-20 Se corrige el PH 5.40 a 5.80 Conductividad 1.25 ms.
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End of week 3 Flower. She is spectacular!!! Buds are starting to ripen and the sweet grape aroma is heavenly.
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@Tio_Shuni
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Un hobby que demanda mucho tiempo, hago lo que puedo con los horarios, espero disfruten este crecimiento de las hermosas presentes. Primera semana de Floración, espero las raíces dejen de crecer, no tengo contemplado hacer un cambio de macetas 😬 Riego cada 2 días, para ser invierno toman mucha agua 2L. por maceta 6.3 ph.
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Day 57 this little lady last weekend showed up with some burning on the leaves but I’m. Not really sure it was an excess of nutrient, signals of a deficiency of K and P are also visible. So I just gave oh controlled water with regulator and enzym+ and some calmag, now everything looks fine and i ‘ m sure I t will be great this week. Tomorrow, feeding day! Day 59 lady si farting up every day, I’ve been feeding her the last two days. The yellow on the leaves is just because of a water deficiency from the last week, I wanted my lady to absorb everything I gave. On day 57 I gave 1 lt but it was too dry, so on day 58 I gave her another lt and she took it all with PH 6,2 and PPM 1000z I think I’ve got 20/25 day max left so this will be the last week of fertilising from Day 70 I’ll start mi flush. Day 62 today feeding day I finally get my p-boost and k-boost from aptus. She drunk 1 lt with ph 6,1 and ppm 1090 Let’s see🌱🌱🌱🔥🔥
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Week 8! Day 58: 2L (pH6.8) + 1ml CalMag + 1ml PK13-14 Today I learned that CalMag contains about 5% nitrogen. So, her nutrient solution comes down to about a half dose of 5-13-14 with added calcium and magnesium - kinda. More importantly, I assume it thus would be worth trying to abstain from CalMag just before harvest. Also, she seems thirsty and since her last nutrient solution was a week ago, I figured we might as well try a half dose of PK13-14. I'm aware she's still got the organic feed, but I'm also curious to learn whether this will burn her again - now that she's bulked up. The remainder of the week will probably consist of watering. Day 59: Still damp Decided to try and even out the canopy further. Remaining two highest branches have been pulled outward, light has been lowered. While the highest apex still reaches about 900 PPFD - which is more than ideal - the entire canopy now receives on average 600 PPFD, while slightly turning down the light intensity from 85% to about 80%. Addition: after browsing other diaries; the Northern Light Automatic strain information pages on Growdiaries.com, and RoyalQueenSeeds.com, I noticed that about 10 weeks after germination is her expected harvest time. That's one week out! I'll thus dial down on the nutrition and keep an extra eye on her water consumption. About half of her pistils are still white. If those start to turn rusty and her water consumption slows down, I assume her leaves will also start going yellow. With the nutrition solution of yesterday she should hold out until harvest, so any leaves turning yellow this week won't be caused by a deficiency, I assume. Day 62: Soil is dry but cool to the touch, no water Nothing much going on currently. She's done most of her bulking I assume. While the soil is dry, she's not showing signs of thirst so I'll water her tomorrow. I'm curious whether watering will increase the bud size. Day 63: 2L (pH6.5) bottom water. Opened up the tent about an hour before lights-on to water her with 2L tapwater pH-ed at 6.5. Instead of the regular top watering, I gave her a royal gulp on the soil and poured the rest in her runoff tray. Day 64: Humid, no water. Some extra defoliation of withered leaves. She won't be needing those as we're nearing the last week. There's the sporadic amber coloured trichome here and there. I've picked up advice saying that, when in doubt, you should give her another week or so and check again. Enjoy the last picture of this week, the money shot!
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@Chucky324
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Hello. This week is start of my 4th year on this site!! 😃✨🎈🎁 , also this is the end of week 3 and the beginning of week 4 of flowering. Things are going well in here. I got in here on the weekend and did a big trim/prune and sucker branch removal too. In some of the pictures you can sort of see through the plants to the floor or wall. That is just right. Not too much taken off, but the light can still pernitrate to the lower buds. The plants are in shock because I took a lot of leaves off and will need a few days to get over that and start to grow again. At this point, I can tell when they are over the shock, by how soon the resin starts to appear. They should go right into resin production after coming out of shock. I don't know if I'll make seeds this summer with the Gorilla Face males. None of these males have much of a smell with the rub test. They all have 4 inches or more of distance between the leaf sets since being repotted. Even the one I thought was going to remain short, has 4 to 5 inches between leaf sets. I might put pollen on the 2 shortest females just to see what I get. It's hard to find a good male. I'll wait another week before deciding. I put a sercuirty door/gate on my greenhouse door. I've had an open door in the summer for years and have always been worried about getting ripped off by someone walking in from the street. Now I can leave the door open and not have to worry so much. This way they have to break something to get in now, better chance of catching them. Ok. See ya next week. Chuck.
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Nice start flowering time. Need sunny weather now. Left flower has bigger blooms, it is nice. Edit: The left flower goes faster.. Start nutrients Plagron Green Sensation and Royal Sugar for maximum blooming now.
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10/02 - DAY 69 - Staying on course. Aromas are getting strong even with the exhaust & filter running 24/7. - Mo is still drinking 2 Gal every ~36hrs. All buds are getting their purple on without low night temps.
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What's in the soil? What's not in the soil would be an easier question to answer. 16-18 DLI @ the minute. +++ as she grows. Probably not recommended, but to get to where it needs to be, I need to start now. Vegetative @1400ppm 0.8–1.2 kPa 80–86°F (26.7–30°C) 65–75%, LST Day 10, Fim'd Day 11 CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity): This is a measure of a soil's ability to hold and exchange positively charged nutrients, like calcium, magnesium, and potassium. Soils with high CEC (more clay and organic matter) have more negative charges that attract and hold these essential nutrients, preventing them from leaching away. Biochar is highly efficient at increasing cation exchange capacity (CEC) compared to many other amendments. Biochar's high CEC potential stems from its negatively charged functional groups, and studies show it can increase CEC by over 90%. Amendments like compost also increase CEC but are often more prone to rapid biodegradation, which can make biochar's effect more long-lasting. biochar acts as a long-lasting Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) enhancer because its porous, carbon-rich structure provides sites for nutrients to bind to, effectively improving nutrient retention in soil without relying on the short-term benefits of fresh organic matter like compost or manure. Biochar's stability means these benefits last much longer than those from traditional organic amendments, making it a sustainable way to improve soil fertility, water retention, and structure over time. Needs to be charged first, similar to Coco, or it will immobilize cations, but at a much higher ratio. a high cation exchange capacity (CEC) results in a high buffer protection, meaning the soil can better resist changes in pH and nutrient availability. This is because a high CEC soil has more negatively charged sites to hold onto essential positively charged nutrients, like calcium and magnesium, and to buffer against acid ions, such as hydrogen. EC (Electrical Conductivity): This measures the amount of soluble salts in the soil. High EC levels indicate a high concentration of dissolved salts and can be a sign of potential salinity issues that can harm plants. The stored cations associated with a medium's cation exchange capacity (CEC) do not directly contribute to a real-time electrical conductivity (EC) reading. A real-time EC measurement reflects only the concentration of free, dissolved salt ions in the water solution within the medium. 98% of a plants nutrients comes directly from the water solution. 2% come directly from soil particles. CEC is a mediums storage capacity for cations. These stored cations do not contribute to a mediums EC directly. Electrical Conductivity (EC) does not measure salt ions adsorbed (stored) onto a Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) site, as EC measures the conductivity of ions in solution within a soil or water sample, not those held on soil particles. A medium releases stored cations to water by ion exchange, where a new, more desirable ion from the water solution temporarily displaces the stored cation from the medium's surface, a process also seen in plants absorbing nutrients via mass flow. For example, in water softeners, sodium ions are released from resin beads to bond with the medium's surface, displacing calcium and magnesium ions which then enter the water. This same principle applies when plants take up nutrients from the soil solution: the cations are released from the soil particles into the water in response to a concentration equilibrium, and then moved to the root surface via mass flow. An example of ion exchange within the context of Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) is a soil particle with a negative charge attracting and holding positively charged nutrient ions, like potassium (K+) or calcium (Ca2+), and then exchanging them for other positive ions present in the soil solution. For instance, a negatively charged clay particle in soil can hold a K+ ion and later release it to a plant's roots when a different cation, such as calcium (Ca2+), is abundant and replaces the potassium. This process of holding and swapping positively charged ions is fundamental to soil fertility, as it provides plants with essential nutrients. Negative charges on soil particles: Soil particles, particularly clay and organic matter, have negatively charged surfaces due to their chemical structure. Attraction of cations: These negative charges attract and hold positively charged ions, or cations, such as: Potassium (K+) Calcium (Ca2+) Magnesium (Mg2+) Sodium (Na+) Ammonium (NH4+) Plant roots excrete hydrogen ions (H+) through the action of proton pumps embedded in the root cell membranes, which use ATP (energy) to actively transport H+ ions from inside the root cell into the surrounding soil. This process lowers the pH of the soil, which helps to make certain mineral nutrients, such as iron, more available for uptake by the plant. Mechanism of H+ Excretion Proton Pumps: Root cells contain specialized proteins called proton pumps (H+-ATPases) in their cell membranes. Active Transport: These proton pumps use energy from ATP to actively move H+ ions from the cytoplasm of the root cell into the soil, against their concentration gradient. Role in pH Regulation: This active excretion of H+ is a major way plants regulate their internal cytoplasmic pH. Nutrient Availability: The resulting decrease in soil pH makes certain essential mineral nutrients, like iron, more soluble and available for the root cells to absorb. Ion Exchange: The H+ ions also displace positively charged mineral cations from the soil particles, making them available for uptake. Iron Uptake: In response to iron deficiency stress, plants enhance H+ excretion and reductant release to lower the pH and convert Fe3+ to the more available form Fe2+. The altered pH can influence the activity and composition of beneficial microbes in the soil. The H+ gradient created by the proton pumps can also be used for other vital cell functions, such as ATP synthesis and the transport of other solutes. The hydrogen ions (H+) excreted during photosynthesis come from the splitting of water molecules. This splitting, called photolysis, occurs in Photosystem II to replace the electrons used in the light-dependent reactions. The released hydrogen ions are then pumped into the thylakoid lumen, creating a proton gradient that drives ATP synthesis. Plants release hydrogen ions (H+) from their roots into the soil, a process that occurs in conjunction with nutrient uptake and photosynthesis. These H+ ions compete with mineral cations for the negatively charged sites on soil particles, a phenomenon known as cation exchange. By displacing beneficial mineral cations, the excreted H+ ions make these nutrients available for the plant to absorb, which can also lower the soil pH and indirectly affect its Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) by altering the pool of exchangeable cations in the soil solution. Plants use proton (H+) exudation, driven by the H+-ATPase enzyme, to release H+ ions into the soil, creating a more acidic rhizosphere, which enhances nutrient availability and influences nutrient cycling processes. This acidification mobilizes insoluble nutrients like iron (Fe) by breaking them down, while also facilitating the activity of beneficial microbes involved in the nutrient cycle. Therefore, H+ exudation is a critical plant strategy for nutrient acquisition and management, allowing plants to improve their access to essential elements from the soil. A lack of water splitting during photosynthesis can affect iron uptake because the resulting energy imbalance disrupts the plant's ability to produce ATP and NADPH, which are crucial for overall photosynthetic energy conversion and can trigger a deficiency in iron homeostasis pathways. While photosynthesis uses hydrogen ions produced from water splitting for the Calvin cycle, not to create a hydrogen gas deficiency, the overall process is sensitive to nutrient availability, and iron is essential for chloroplast function. In photosynthesis, water is split to provide electrons to replace those lost in Photosystem II, which is triggered by light absorption. These electrons then travel along a transport chain to generate ATP (energy currency) and NADPH (reducing power). Carbon Fixation: The generated ATP and NADPH are then used to convert carbon dioxide into carbohydrates in the Calvin cycle. Impaired water splitting (via water in or out) breaks the chain reaction of photosynthesis. This leads to an imbalance in ATP and NADPH levels, which disrupts the Calvin cycle and overall energy production in the plant. Plants require a sufficient supply of essential mineral elements like iron for photosynthesis. Iron is vital for chlorophyll formation and plays a crucial role in electron transport within the chloroplasts. The complex relationship between nutrient status and photosynthesis is evident when iron deficiency can be reverted by depleting other micronutrients like manganese. This highlights how nutrient homeostasis influences photosynthetic function. A lack of adequate energy and reducing power from photosynthesis, which is directly linked to water splitting, can trigger complex adaptive responses in the plant's iron uptake and distribution systems. Plants possess receptors called transceptors that can directly detect specific nutrient concentrations in the soil or within the plant's tissues. These receptors trigger signaling pathways, sometimes involving calcium influx or changes in protein complex activity, that then influence nutrient uptake by the roots. Plants use this information to make long-term adjustments, such as Increasing root biomass to explore more soil for nutrients. Modifying metabolic pathways to make better use of available resources. Adjusting the rate of nutrient transport into the roots. That's why I keep a high EC. Abundance resonates Abundance.
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@Kaya666
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Week 11! Day 77. Gotta be nearing the final lap now. Old fan leaves are turning yellow & pistils are turning brown. I did a few trial runs of "ice flushing" but with just one ice cube at a time last week lol. Maybe 2-3 cubes per day. Figured it'd help imitate colder conditions outdoors if nothing else. Still doing the slow, small waterings as she definitely prefers them to dumping a whole bottle-and-a-half in there at once. The smell is more noticeable than before, but still not where you'd expect for the size & maturity. My smaller plants both smelled stronger, and MUCH earlier. One of them was a Solo cup grow all the way to the end & neither exceeded a paltry 4.3 grams dry. (Maybe I've just had COVID one too many times since then but this plant is as odor-free as can be). Frost level is moderate compared to popular strains & bud sites are abundant which is my main concern. I don't smoke weed for the taste or smell, though I know terps play a role in the final effects. This girl couldn't smell any LESS like Skittles, berries or chocolate if it tried, leaning much farther in the skunky/pungent direction. Planning to do a wet trim & staggered harvest, cutting the top into 3 sections 24 hours apart to hopefully avoid/reduce stress. Then I'll leave the bottom part to grow another week or so. With a plant this tall and lanky, there is a real difference in maturity of buds. Plus my lights are weak af. Not sure how I'll get the temps down in the 60-70 degree range for for TWO separate drying periods, but we'll try. (I'm cold-natured & would have to run the AC 24/7 since it's still warm & muggy here, and that gets expensive. But I'll also have my ceiling & oscillating fans, some baking soda to absorb moisture & windows to open on cool nights. Gotta keep the temp AND humidity in the right range! I looked at her the morning after applying a small amount of potassium humates & noticed a bunch of brown rusty spots on the upper sugar leaves. So I cut them off. Would be curious to know what it most likely is though. Also found a dead bug on her. Little black thing with wings... looks like he died happy lol. 10/29/25: Ice flush + stem-splitting initiated. Next is 24 hours of light before adding more ice (half as much, if that) plus 36 hours in the dark before (partial) harvest. Landlord scare this morning had me scrambling to hide everything! Hence the bent cola on top--she wore the black garbage bag "hat" again lol. No bottle/chemical nutes so this isn't technically a "flush" in every sense... more of an end-of-life stressor/imitation of outdoor conditions (if we weren't frying due to climate change, heh). Hoping this staggered harvest thing works out. I wouldn't likely be doing it if not for the time crunch & fact that I need to whittle this plant down to a more manageable size. Next few days should be eventful, check back. 😉