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Que pasa familia, vamos con la tercera semana de vida de estas Black muffin F1 de Sweetseeds. Vamos al lío, de las 4 plantas, me quedaré con 3 por espacio, siempre pongo alguna semilla de más por si no abriese alguna por no perder ese hueco del indoor. También se trasplantaron a su maceta definitiva, en este caso de 7 litros. El ph se controla en 6.2 , la temperatura la tenemos entre 20/22 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%. Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨
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All right here we are day 100 39 of flower and as expected the buds are not going to be huge I'm thinking thumb size as I stated a few weeks ago it's still got some grown to do so I'm hoping she bulks up.. she smells great and I'm happy with how the canopy came out however I think from now on I'm going to keep the topping to a minimal once maybe twice tops.. thank you Weedseedsexpress for the opportunity to grow your genetics I'm getting excited as strawberry cough has been a long time coming for me.. this plant is one of two that I planted in the same soil and the other one didn't make it because it was used soil with salt based nutrients I say that to say this little girl has really pulled through some tough times and I didn't help any with what I did to her so overall the genetics I would say are extremely stable strong as she had quite the will to live.. I hope everybody is doing well and so are there ladies God bless and happy growing everyone ✌️😎
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Que pasa familia, vamos con la quinta semana de floración de estas Gorilla Zkittlez Auto de FastBuds. La tierra que utilizamos que está en la publicación anterior es top crop all mix, aparte alimentamos nuestras plantas con Agrobeta. Por supuesto el ph se mide en cada riego y se mantiene en 6.2, regando cada 48/72 horas e intentando mantener la humedad un poco alta al principio. Se ven bien sanas tienen buen color , ya empiezan asomar aromas y el tamaño bueno no puedo quejarme, estas semanas vemos como maduran las flores. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨
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@REYCG9091
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This grow is an example of how important is to check your veg time to make sure it doesn't shoot over the lights and over the roof really, overall is good tho. Also i ditched advanced nutrients for a new brand, since advanced nutrients are just costly stickers imho. 11/16/24 bought a new fert , that will not only last me 10 times with a fraction of cost, also it's much easier then mixing 24 different bottles , also all the liquid ferts tends to cristallize so i don't even know if the fert i've applyied in the past (advanced nutrients perfect ph micro-grow-bloom) was all bioavailable (probably not) since the buds looks already bigger after 1 application. Also Ferty 1 Geo has also molybdenum among the microelements wich was not present on advanced nutrients. cheers!
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Gibberellin really made her leggy. let's hope it makes her extra flowery too. Tallest bud LI 1600-1800ppfd. Supplementary side LI 1400ppfd. I've really been having a hard time This describes what Im experiencing without a doubt in my mind, I thought it was a slew of other problems, one by.one they seemed to yield no answer with each remedy. Then after much study, what I was looking for found me. Just thought I would share some of my research in an aim to prevent other growers from having the same problems I've had. What the Cannabis community commonly thinks of as nutrient burn, pH issue, or deficiency is actually the result of Chlorine and Chloramine in Cannabis. Chlorine and Chloramine problems will present themselves in multiple ways. The symptoms are burnt leaf tips (reddish brown tinge about 1-4mm in length that point up), rusted spots, naturally torn leaves that shrivel where broken, and a reddish brown micro spots on your leaves. You may also experience narrower fan leaves. When in flower, buds take 2-3 weeks longer to hit their stride and will never hit their full potential. You wont get massive buds if your plant has been in contact with to much Chlorine and Chloramine. Chlorine, is only a micronutrient and your plant requires it in only very small quantities. If using tap water, you'll hear commonly that you need to bubble off your water for the chlorine to evaporate because it can kill the good bacteria in the water. This problem is only the tip of the iceberg. Chloramine is said to do the same thing but it cannot be bubbled off, and both (especially Chloramine) causes a wide range of other problems. Now the real kicker is what is actually going on inside the plant. Chloramine and Chlorine were studied in an article titled "Redox agents regulate ion channel activity in vacuoles from higher plant cells," the author tells us that Chloramine irreversibly damages flowering plants vacuoles resulting in the inability for the exposed channel to transport ions. A good quote from the articles abstract "The regulation of channel activation by glutathione may correlate ion transport with other crucial mechanisms that in plants control turgor regulation, response to oxidative stresses, detoxification and resistance to heavy metals." Further reading will tell you that Chloramine is directly responsible for a wide range of internal problems. I'm no chemist or horticultural, but this clearly tells me that flowering plants are significantly inhibited from reaching their potential when exposed to Chloramine. Do yourself a favor and use only the best quality of water for your plant by using a filtration device to remove Chlorine and Chloramine. Solutions. Ultraviolet light The use of ultraviolet light for chlorine or chloramine removal is an established technology that has been widely accepted in pharmaceutical, beverage, and dialysis applications.UV is also used for disinfection at aquatic facilities. Ascorbic acid and sodium ascorbate Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and sodium ascorbate completely neutralize both chlorine and chloramine, but degrade in a day or two, which makes them usable only for short-term applications. SFPUC determined that 1000 mg of vitamin C tablets, crushed and mixed in with bath water, completely remove chloramine in a medium-size bathtub without significantly depressing pH. Activated carbon Activated carbon has been used for chloramine removal long before catalytic carbon, a form of activated carbon, became available[citation needed]; standard activated carbon requires a very long contact time, which means a large volume of carbon is needed. For thorough removal, up to four times the contact time of catalytic carbon may be required.[citation needed] Most dialysis units now depend on granular activated carbon (GAC) filters, two of which should be placed in series so that chloramine breakthrough can be detected after the first one, before the second one fails. Additionally, sodium metabisulfite injection may be used in certain circumstances. [full citation needed] Campden tablets Home brewers use reducing agents such as sodium metabisulfite or potassium metabisulfite (both proprietorially sold as Campden tablets) to remove chloramine from brewing fermented beverages. However, residual sulfite can cause off flavors in beer so potassium metabisulfite is preferred. Sodium thiosulfate Sodium thiosulfate is used to dechlorinate tapwater for aquariums or treat effluent from wastewater treatments prior to release into rivers[citation needed]. The reduction reaction is analogous to the iodine reduction reaction. Treatment of tapwater requires between 0.1 and 0.3 grams of pentahydrated (crystalline) sodium thiosulfate per 10 L of water[citation needed]. Many animals are sensitive to chloramine, and it must be removed from water given to many animals in zoos.[citation needed] Other methods Chloramine, like chlorine, can be removed by boiling and aging. However, time required to remove chloramine is much longer than that of chlorine. The time required to remove half of the chloramine (half-life) from 10 US gallons (38 L; 8.3 imp gal) of water by boiling is 26.6 minutes, whereas the half-life of free chlorine in boiling 10 gallons of water is only 1.8 minutes. Aging may take weeks to remove chloramines, whereas chlorine disappears in a few days.
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An Tag 50 sieht die Tropicana Cookies schon fast "erntereif" aus. Sie bekommt noch locker eine bis zwei Wochen, aber nach 50 Tagen vom Samen bis in diesen Zustand zu kommen ist für mich beeindruckend. Das ist wirklich schnell 💪 Die anderen beiden trödeln so vor sich hin, die eine blass, die andere klein, aber sie machen ihren Job. Vielleicht lässt die Tropicana die anderen beiden aufgrund ihrer Geschwindigkeit auch einfach nur etwas langsam aussehen. Wenn die also noch abliefern, hätte ich nichts dagegen 😅 An Tag 53 sieht alles soweit gut aus. Die Tropicana Cookies scheint schon langsam ihrem Ende entgegen zu gehen. Verdammt schnell würde ich sagen. Ich gebe ihr aber noch ein paar Tage, auch wenn ich den Platz den anderen beiden gönnen würde und später auch werde. Die Mimosa hat sich eingegrooved und man hat endlich das Gefühl Fortschritt zu sehen. Sie bekommt überall schöne, weiße Igel. Die MAC#1 ist scheinbar ein wenig lichtempfindlich. Ich hab versuchsweise den EC bis 4,0 hochgedrückt, aber sie bekommt die Farbe nicht zurück, solange ich ihr über 700 µmol/s/m² an Licht gebe. Gestern hab ich das Licht ein wenig reduziert und ich habe das Gefühl, dass sie wieder mehr Druck in den Blättern aufbaut. Leider bekam die Mimosa dadurch nur noch 580 µmol/s/m², also habe ich die vordere Lampe seitlich gehangen. So konnte ich genug Licht rein bekommen, da der seitliche Unterschied zur Tropicana Cookies bei Weitem nicht so groß ist, wie der Höhenunterschied.
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Somit beginnt Woche 5. Woche 4 war entspannt. Abermals legt Painkiller XL ein gutes Wachstum hin. Ich schätze, dass der Stretch nun vorbei ist und alles in die Blüten geht. Schaut euch dieses Blüten bitte an. Wunderschön und harzig.
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I want to start LST on Day 23. I will just bend her down and tie the leaves to the side. Every Strain is doing really good, im watering them all 3 days adding the nutritions above. But i also see some strains that didnt like the overwatering at the start. And i burned my strawberry gorilla a bit with waterdrops on the leaves. but she seems to be unimpressed by that. Today i also noticed a very little smell when i opened my tent. im curious which one is making this scent, it was really sweet. i raised the light intensity from 70% to 85%, leavin the rest for bloom. Day 24: i watered them yesterday with about half a litre of water. i included lacalva stress treatment before making the LST. i kind of feeling like im a bit too late, but we will see. Day 27: Damn guys, i think i did bad on this LST stuff. all of them are really bushy and very strong showing upward. in my first grow, i never had these issues. but all of the stems are so huge. they are close to be bigger than the final stem of my first grow. i think i need to defoliate them soon. i removed the wire and let them do what they want, until they get to know the net.
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Grow Diary Update: Week 4, Day 2 🌱 Everything is going great today! The plants are really starting to take off, and the canopy is coming along nicely with the LST (Low Stress Training) and topping I’ve been doing. I did have to flush the other day because the PPMS were way too high for this stage, but that’s all sorted now—running at 438 PPMS on the way out, so they're much happier now. 😊 Looking at flipping to flower by the end of Week 5, maybe Week 6 at the latest. The plants are getting no more than 500 PPFD right now, typically hanging around the high 400s, which seems to be working well for them at this stage. In a couple of days, I’ll be increasing the light intensity and boosting up my feed to prepare them for the transition to flower. 🌸 Overall, they’re on track and looking strong. Can’t wait to see how they develop over the next couple of weeks! ✌️