Day 29. Girl is going , a bit slower than Ice, i was hoping Chocolopez will be same big runner, still very nice plant is forming. Mars TS1000 - Light is solid and does job. For last week output is on max . Still rotate a lot, but am happy with development. I miss more good wind inside, but i live in shared house ;)))))))))))) even really silent air system is still loud on desired speeds ... Hope next week ill send her to flower. Will top up with Worm Castings and Mycorrhizae during training in few days, when girls will be watered next time. Rhythm is good, every 3 days pots are light. 1.5 liters to each went straight in after photo shoot. Day 31. Applied BioBizz Leaf Coat when lights went off. Loads of training was made today too. Day 32. Now girls are trained daily. Top shoot twisting, leaf tucking, rotation around axis , changing positions inside of tent and so on. Always wash hands before any training, it is a must. Still havent made mind, scrog or lst ... Think tomorrow will be watering day and i have to decide which way to go , i am fliping them at next watering 100%, otherwise again rush to harvest before late spring holidays ... Happy Growing !!!

Another week without fertilizers, flowering seems to have stopped :/ The trichomes seem quite ripe, I'll wait another week and then harvest.

Not much to report. Their was some slight leaf curling so I bumped the light up more and hooked up the ventilation to get air flow going. Posted a video of the foliar feeding. Everything is half strength; Deep Breath, Snow Storm Ultra, and Alchemist Stout all 2.5ml. Yucca added at 1/16 tsp. Waited to foliar feed until now because I noticed the curling and realized I left it sealed off to long. Negative Pressure raised the humidity since there was no air flow. Other then that everything is good. Leafs are also a darker green then the Migro tent. But the Migro tent is a fucking beast, boosted the height up to the same as this BudBox because of the height. Karmic Connection will for sure be kept a lot shorter then Spotless Mind since the BlackDog will burn them if it gets to close.

Day 30: Just got back from vacation, left the girls on their own for 4 days. Watered before I left, came back and they look fine. BL is at 19cm and PB is 10cm. BL's stem is getting thicker, and stray spiders and ants are becoming more and more attracted to her. Odour is still weak and no signs of flowering. I may have to keep an eye out on her leaves starting from now and consider adding some liquid fertilizer. While I was on vacay I kept them at 12/12 artificial light. Usually I give them 3hrs of supplemental sunlight on the windowsill. Day 33: The foliage is starting to show signs of nutrient deficiency, spotting on the top leaves and yellowing on the bottom leaves on both plants. I'm adding a low dosage of orchid fertilizer and a bit of chamomile tea. Will also sprinkle some coffee grounds to the top layer of the soil. (7PM: I am seeing white pistils come out! Thinking it will start flowering very soon.) Day 34: Sprayed with a neem solution last night night and turned on the fan. Removed the yellowing leaf, looked like a powdered mold growth, and seeing if the spots are from bug meals. Hoping that the fan and the neem will reduce bugs. Day 35: The white spots definitely look like bugs taking bites out of the leaves. I'm going to spray her with neem daily and look out for critters now, and do all the rest of the household plants too. Started doing LST on PB as well. Looking forward to seeing BL enter her flowering phase as she is clearly pre-flowering now. Day 36: Might have been a bit too intense with PB's first LST session, she needs some recovery. Good thing I can just keep her in vegetative for a while. Neem spray went well, no new leaf damage. BL has done her pre-flower stretch. Will be able to keep these girls pretty small. Landlord may visit this week so I'll have to hide them.

"Septoria" септория სეპტორია!!!

Awesome harvest and very happy with the outcome. Starting another journal next week. Will be even more detailed and I won't miss any weeks. I uploaded some video of my drying room.

They were outdoors and neglected for about 6 weeks before coming inside to finish , despite this they all yielded nice smelling frosty buds . Easy to grow and good quality flowers.

Heyy 🤟🏻 another week is going great and we have a lot of new growth and some buds from some of the plants. Watering about 1.5 L water per 2 days

All looking good, was looking like there was gonna be a few mutants but they seem to have sorted themselves out. Topped most of them now at day 22, will start spreading them out a bit this week and start training them up

Día 43 (24/02) Riego con 400 ml H2O EC 0,45 Está reaccionando muy bien al Lollipopping y poda de bajos 😁 Día 44 (25/02) Riego con 350 ml H2O EC 0,45 Se empieza a formar los tricomas! 😍 Día 45 (26/02) La altura está sobre 60 cm. ¿Debería haber reducido en 1 una semana el vegetativo? Yo quería plantas pequeñas en SOG 😂 Riego con 400 ml H2O EC 0,45 Elimino algunos brotes de la mitad inferior de la planta que no van a formar buenos cogollos Día 46 (27/02) Riego con 350 ml H2O EC 0,45 Floración a todo tren formando los erizos 💥💨😁 Día 47 (28/02) Riego con 350 ml H2O EC 0,45 Día 48 (01/03) Riego con 350 ml H2O EC 0,45 Preparación del PK Booster Compost Tea Día 49 (02/03) Damos el stretch por terminado ya que estamos en día 21 de floración Lollipopping y defoliación del día 21 para potenciar la floración! Aplicación de 0,5 Litros de PK Booster Compost Tea de nuestros increíbles amigos de BIOTABS 🚀 FastBuds 15% DISCOUNT code "NONICK" 2fast4buds.com @fastbuds.official 💦 BioTabs 15% DISCOUNT code "GDBT420" biotabs.nl/en/shop/ @biotabs_official 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE @promixmitch @promixgrowers_unfiltered 💡2 x Mars Hydro FC1500 EVO Led Grow Light (2024 NEW FC 1500-EVO Samsung LM301H 150W LED) - https://marshydro.eu/products/fc1500-evo-led-grow-lights/ - https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0CSSGN5D8?ref=myi_title_dp

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

this time we got a different phenotype, the whole plant has started to turn purple, not just sporadically like in the last ztrawberriez grow. It looks beautiful and will be harvested soon

Going into bigger pots

Had high winds and it took it first tumble of the grow, the burning you're seeing in the picture is from it laying on the hot roof for jesus knows how long. I just snipped the burned parts of and kept it pushing, nothing else that can be done and I didn't lose a branch so smiles all around. I have stopped training for the most part, I've learned there is such a thing as overtraining outdoors and it causes you to lose branches.

Last week the plants grew looking very healthy although I still have a feeling the low humidity is slowing their growth, by the end of the first week I started raising the EC to make the increasing for this week smoother, run-off EC is substantially increasing so I will start to fertigate them twice a day for this week.

2 big plants are left and both are doing great. Sensi Skunk is very tall now from the stretch in flower.

Getting spotting and burnt tips on the leaves, no idea why. The nutrient amount was 2ml/gal of Micro and Grow with 1ml/gal of RapidStart during the week before. Changed water on Nov 13th, FIM'd Nov 12th but it looks like I may have just topped it. Nov 14th - pH 6.1 -> 5.8 - PPM 480, 1.0 EC - Temp 75f, Humidity 50% Nov 15th - pH 5.6 (?) - PPM 460, 0.9 EC - Temp 71f, Humidity 65% Nov 16th - pH 5.8 - PPM 450, 0.9 EC - Temp 75f, Humidity 60% Nov 17th - pH 5.7 - PPM 440, 0.9 EC - Temp 75, Humidity 60% Nov 18th - pH 5.9 - PPM 430, 0.9 EC - Temp 80f, Humidity 60% Nov 19th - pH 6.0 - PPM 500, 1.0 EC - Temp 65, Humidity 70% - Added CalMag on the evening of the 18th Nov 20th - pH 6.0 - PPM 490, 1.0 EC - Temp 75, Humidity 50%

not much to say about it ... just that they are slow ... summer ended a few days ago ... and the sun is not very strong outdoor ... but i I am waiting to grow and show its potential

She’s packing on weight starting to get bigger frosty nugs and she smells absolutely amazing