Welcome to Flower Week 6 and harvest of Divine Seeds Auto White Widow For this competition, I’ve chosen the Feminized Automatic strain: Auto White Widow Here’s what I’m working with: • 🌱 Tent: 120x60x80 • 🧑‍🌾 Breeder Company: Divine Seeds • 💧 Humidity Range: 50 • ⏳ Flowering Time: 58 Days • Strain Info: 20%THC • 🌡️ Temperature: 26 • 🍵 Pot Size: 3 • Nutrient Brand: Narcos • ⚡ Lights : 200W x 2 A huge thank you to Divine Seeds for allowing me to be a part of this amazing competition and Sponsoring the Strains. Big thanks for supporting the grower community worldwide! Your genetics and passion speak for themselves! I would truly appreciate every bit of feedback, help, questions, or discussions – and of course, your likes and interactions mean the world to me as I try to stand out in this exciting competition! Let’s grow together – and don’t forget to stop by again to see the latest updates! Happy growing! Stay lifted and stay curious! Peace & Buds!

Už to bude

Edit from 19th May. Literally 00:09 Pre-Flowering. Fat Banana looks like Hermie. Royal Critical = clean pre-flower. Edit from 19th May. 16:26 Fat Banana had balls sack and pistils growing all over the place. I nuked everything that had balls on it. I left only top node with pistils. Royal Critical is full of pistils, no balls. Now I wish I had photoperiod seeds instead of automatics. I would give Critical 1 extra week in veg. She is around 10-15cm smaller then Fat Banana. I switched the lights back to 400W. Edit from 20th May. 14:45 I think 32C is maximum what these plants can handle. With 600W I was reaching 34C on some top leaves and that could possibly turn the Fat Banana into hermit (she was the tallest). I open the tent a little (front doors), I put big-ass fan on second gear blowing strong wind through the mesh-window of a tent. I put the lights straight up to the ceiling, I literally can't put them any higher. Fat banana is now 58cm tall and around 80cm away from the light. Royal Critical is now 41cm tall and around 100cm away from the light. 50% Humidity 28C under the canopy/on the ground under the leaves 31C Air temperature. Fat Banana fan leaves temperature: 28.5C Fat Banana center/middle of the plant: 30.9C Royal Critical fan leaves temperature: 27.5C Royal Critical center/middle of the plant: 27.8C NOTE: Royal Critical ugly/yellow leaves have higher temp: 29-30C The rest of small plants range from 28 and 32C Surface area/soil temperature DRY: 35C Surface/Soil temp. WET/SHADOW: 28-29C That pistol/laser for checking temps was solid purchase. I can see back of my tent is more hot then other areas. Will do more Temp-Checks in the future. I also deleted few things from "Condition" tab because one day they are correct, the other something change and the info is not accurate anymore. I'll update info here in edits. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Farm Control Sheet Date: 20th May 2024 Time: 16:57 Tent status: Side doors little bit open. Both windows fully open. Fan blowing air on second gear outside the tent, West window. Fan insides on full. Lights power: 400W Lights schedule: 18/6 Humidity: 50% Dry soil temp: 35C Wet soil temp:
 28.5C Fan leaves temp: 28.5C 
Center of the flower temp: 30C 
Stem temp: ~32C 
Air temp. Inside tent: 30-32C 
Air temp. Outside tent: 25.5C 
Air temp. Outside house:
 21C ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Farm Control Sheet Date:
 21th May 2024 Time:
 15:53 Tent status:
 Side windows full open. Front doors 75% open. Big-ass-fan on second gearwest window. Lights power:
 400W Lights schedule:
 18/6 Humidity:
 50% Dry soil temp:
 36C-38C in front // 38C-40C in back Wet soil temp: 
Fan leaves temp: 28-29C

 

Stem temp: 29C 

Air temp. Inside tent: 31C 

Air temp. Outside tent:

 26C Air temp. Outside house: 20C Details: Smol plants growing stronk! They have little bit crumbled leaves cuz of heat I guess. 32C @ 50% RH is max for my setup. Edit from 22th May. @ 13:10 Nothing changes. Plants are happy and praying to their god ( me ofc :) ) Same temps Same RH I watered them yesterday after long days/weeks of dry season (cuz of FuckYouGnats). Edit from 23th May. @ 11:40am Same temps or even a bit lower then in last two days. I like it. I closed 85% of windows in tent (door fully closed) to create negative pressure that's gonna suck out the hot air. It seems to work better than what I did yesterday. Today I gave them second dose of nematodes. There is really very little Fungus Gnats around now. Sometimes, occasionally one or two "teenagers" or "baby" Gnats would fly out from bottom of pot or top of the soil after watering but that's like nothing comparing to what I had at the beginning. Shit-ton of yellow-sticky-tape does the job as well, just put it everywhere you can. / What I'm singing to Lady Banan? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZEddFi1W8k / What I'm singing to Lady Banan? Edit from 23th May @ 2pm So I'm reading about VPD now and I think, this is what is happening in my tent right now. High temps but RH at right levels makes the plant comfy in that zones. Right now plants sitting at 30.6C @ 55% RH So I'm sitting at 1.27 VPD? If I could lower my temps to 29C and keep RH at 55% that would be 1.20 VPD (which would be perfect) N o t B a d R o o k I e Edit from 24th May @ 11:24 am So in last 3 days the temperature outside my house is dropping + raining. So that means I have perfect VPD in my tent now. We are sitting at 30C @ 50-55% RH. Most plants have praying leaves, even Lady Banan stops being moody and just start fucking flowering like it should. Finally. But I can see she wanna grow even more upwards, like wtf, this is not 3 meter tent, its only 2.2m, chill the freaking out Lady Banan... Im gonna have literal forest if the rest of Bananas would grow like that. As you can see I'm kinda happy with the grow now. Fungus Gnats still present but under control. Yellow Sticky tape, especially under the mesh window, the tape is catching fuck-ton of these motherfuckers. Few days ago I did "Very Light Stress Training" with Royal Critical. So I basically just tackle the fan leaves in the way, where, when fan leaves are growing bigger, they push the side branches more to the outside (apologize for my English but you can check out the pictures and see what I mean). So she is training by her self, alone, with the power of nature = and it works, she is opening more and more every 2 days. Edit from 25th May @ 21:53 Yoyoyoyoyoyo! So my ADHD and Bipolar kicks in so Idgaf about temps, its colder, around 29C @ 45% They got a lot of fresh air today, I was "luchting" today. I think I had to water them today but... Will do tomorrow morning. I'm thinking about Pimpology classes for myself, for better communication with the bitches, you know what I mean... They ain't thickening up if they aint stressing! Edit from 26th May. Sunday. 7am DOUBLE DROP NEVER STOP LET THAT BEAUTY POP 69 PLANT SIZE: BANAN = 72CM CRITICAL = 65CM 😎

La strawberrie gorilla est une de leur strain les plus potentiels et elle ne semble pas vouloir faire mentir ses dire . Ouf elle est bouré de

Day 35, start of week 2 in flower, everything is going great so far✌️🏼🌱 Day 37 - All the ladies are looking great✌️🏼🌱 Day 38 - ladies got watered today, looking good & starting to put off a nice smell😍 Day 40 - Still have a lot of yellowing leaves towards the bottom of almost all the plants can’t figure out exactly what’s wrong😅😅

SO HEY GUYS THE UPDATE!!!!!!!!! 1) Switched from the small pots to the 5 Gallon Fabric bags. 2) Using MORE LST as much as I Can lol 3) Using Advanced Nutrients ph GROW and ph Mircro 4) Started incorporating Purple Cow Organics : Indicanja Living soil its fire!!!!!!!!!!!!

Week 3. Photos from the end of week 2 to the end of week 3. You can see the size difference in the girls they are doing great! Still having Plagron nutrients. Decided to change the light to a 600w HPS 4 days ago. Some of the girls are showing some signs of heat stress but rectified it and they will bounce back in a few weeks. Going to get the scrog net sorted before next week and get them growing into it. Here's hoping lol! Happy growing.

The left one is still slower but coming on nicely, with the reduced bud sites I'm expecting larger buds. The right one has a lot more buds, so it should be a good comparison. The Autopots are doing their thing hassle-free watering.

@twenty20mendocino Ateam R&D Update ~ Let’s go day 91 an these girls are doing amazing! Looking nice an healthy we will let these girls recover for a few more days from the heavy defoliation and on Sunday we will be giving them the big flip , Let’s go flower!! Updates coming soon ! Sangria has been doing her thing , been drying for12 days now so Sunday we will be giving her the trim and jar her up, but updates coming soon yall!! Let’s have an amazing productive day as well as a great safe weekend, peace love an positive vibes to y’all Cheers an blaze on 😶‍🌫️💨💨💨💨

Both front lsd25 autos are growing good the back left big bud auto is doing great and the cherry cola on the back right is slow but showing signs of growth(4 days behind others)

she is becoming purple. the temperature low in my city .. it smells very good and strong... thanks ripper seed.......

2/21/24

Buds should be dried in the dark at 20 degrees in 50% humidity

Plants are growing! But so is my mold problem I recently got a hygrometer and noticed that my humidity was ranging from 64-70 percent which I realize is too high and maybe that is where my mold is coming From im starting to see it coming from the drain holes on the bottom of my pot. I’m going to get a dehumidifier and see how that works. Also I attempted lst to both plants . The doc og is a week older and definitely bigger than the apples and bananas but but are coming along nicely.

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

Nun geht immer mehr mit den Buds doch leider wirkt auch der Mangel immer noch stark auf sie ein. Ich versuche weiterhin die Versorgung mit Komposttee zu gewährleisten.

Has she really grown over a foot this week???????????? She's a nice bush now.

The temperatures, humidity, and watering volume(if measured) in grow conditions are all averaged for the week. The pH is soil pH. Any watering done by me is well water which is 7.6 pH and 50° F. Any listed nutrients are ml/gallon of water to be fed. Day 1 we had high temperature of 89°F. We had scattered thunderstorms and roughly two hours of rain. No watering today Day 2 we had a high temperature of 80°F. The skies were partly cloudy with a healthy breeze. I water 2-2.5 gallons today. Day 3 we had a high temperature of 79 and partly cloudy skies. This cooler weather has been nice. I watered 2-3 gallons each pot once. Day 4 we had high temperature of 92°F. I watered 3-4 gallons from the hose. Day 5 we had a high temperature of 85°F. Skies were cloudy to overcast with off and on rain until noon. Then partly cloudy in the afternoon. I added 50ml of blood meal and 50ml of iron spread evenly across the tops of the pots. Watering was done by rain today. The roots have begun to grow down through the pots into the ground. Because we get high winds this is a bonus. The #1 plant has some small spots of powdery mildew on it today. Day 6 we had a high temperature of 86°F, a short rain shower, with cloudy to partly cloudy skies. Watering done today by the rain. Day 7 we had high temperature of 81°F skies were cloudy to partly cloudy. We had some intermittent heavy rain so everyone was watered by nature today.

Día 37 (08/07) Ajustes de LST en todas las plantas! 🚀 Día 38 (09/07) Ajustes de LST en todas las plantas. Las ramas inferiores están creciendo como un cohete! 🚀😍 Riego con 250 ml H2O pH 6,5 Día 39 (10/07) Las plantas se muestran sedientas! Creo que el cepellón está lleno de raíces y piden el trasplante! El crecimiento no se ha visto afectado de momento Riego con 500 ml H20 pH 6,5 Día 40 (11/07) Paso a regar con 500 ml / día, ya que hace mucho calor (30 ºC) y efectivamente las plantas ya han copado la maceta de raíces Riego con 500 ml H20 pH 6,5 Día 41 (12/07) Riego con 500 ml H20 pH 6,5 Clones! Mi experimento vuelve a demostrar que NO necesitas complejos productos de clonación ni sistemas para obtener clones! Hace 15 días puse 2 clones con el tallo sumergido en miel durante 5 minutos en una maceta de 400 ml con PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE He mantenido la humedad alta con una cúpula de humedad casera hecha con una botella de agua PET de 5 litros cortada por la mitad y pulverizando a diario. Han estado los 15 días en mi terraza con luz indirecta, y temperaturas que rondan los 30 - 32ºC durante las horas centrales del día Hoy los he trasplantado a una maceta de 1 litro porque ya habían formado raíces y empezaban a formar nuevas hojas! 🐥🐥🚀🐥🐥 Día 42 (13/07) Riego con 500 ml H20 pH 6,5 Día 43 (14/07) Trasplante a maceta definitiva de 21 litros de ROOTPLUS Pot de GSKOREA GLOBAL! Estas macetas son una maravilla! Proceso de trasplante: Se prepara con 17,85 Litros (85%) de sustrato PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS+MYCORRHIZAE + 1,05 Litros de Humus de Lombriz (5%) + 2,01 Litros de Insect Frass (10%) + 210 gramos de Earth Vibes Super Soil (10 g/L substrato) Se llena la maceta de sustrato con las manos (limpias) y rompiendo los trozos más gruesos, para que el sustrato esté aireado y esponjoso, sin presionar Se coloca una maceta vacía de 6,5L para que quede la forma perfecta de la maceta donde están actualmente Se espolvorea la parte proporcional de la probeta de microorganismos sobre el agujero de trasplante Se saca la planta de su maceta actual (bonitas raíces 😍) y se coloca en la maceta final Se riega muy lentamente hasta percolación profunda con H2O EC 0,5 pH 6,5 Una vez asentada, complemento con un riego de 500 ml con 25 ml/L de Humus de Lombriz Liquido Se coloca mulch (acolchado) de paja para evitar traspiración excesiva y cuidar a los microorganismos del suelo A ver como reacciona al trasplante! Aplicación foliar Kelp hidrolizado de Lurpe Solutions a 0.25 ml/l Realizo ajustes de LST aprovechando el trasplante a la nueva maceta. De momento tienen una canopia muy bien formada! 💦Nutrients by Lurpe Solutions - www.lurpenaturalsolutions.com 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-hp-biostimulant-plus-mycorrhizae