Plantas de buenas estructuras y fácil de cultivar ,resistente a las plagas y estrés hídricos. "WAKA" pasará a ser una de mis favoritas ,( guardaremos madres ) . una genéticas maravillosa muy resinosa de cogollos compactos . Olores muy marcados a cítricos especialmente limón y otras más dulces esto también se refleja al momento de degustar las flores al fumar. Seguiremos trabajando esta genéticas con las madres que seleccionamos de los fenotipos que más nos gustaron . Corte : 08.12.2019 (secado) Curado : 23.12.2019( puestos en frascos )

Wie man auf dem Video sehen kann ist so langsam der Herbst eingekehrt und die Blätter beginnen ganz natürlich zu welken. Jetzt freue ich mich noch auf zwei Dinge, zum einen die Ernte und zum anderen die neue Upgrades für mein Set-Up einzubauen und den nächsten Run zu beginnen, mit Pflanzen die ich von der Pike auf gezogen habe und nicht einen Run mit dreibeinigen Hunden zu fahren.

Constructive interference is the phenomenon where two waves combine to form a new wave with a larger amplitude. This occurs when the peaks of one wave align with the peaks of another, and troughs align with troughs, causing their amplitudes to add together. For example, if two identical waves meet, their amplitudes will combine to produce a resultant wave with double the original amplitude. Constructive interference is a fundamental phenomenon based on the universal laws of nature, specifically the principle of superposition. 👋Top is a clean cut, no confusion for the plant, road ahead is clear, by completely removing the main growth tip, the auxin source is eliminated. The plant permanently halts vertical growth from that main stem and immediately sends its energy and hormones to the two new, evenly spaced branches just below the cut. Fimming slightly different because a small tuft of the top growth is left behind, the auxin disruption is temporary and less severe. The plant recovers more quickly and sends its energy to multiple surrounding growth points, often creating four or more new shoots from the same spot. It will eventually regain some vertical dominance after a few weeks if left to its own devices, but with a little more LST, bending the apex to the same height as the rest of the internodes, this shatters dominance, hopefully creating around 8-9 main shoots growing at equal height once recovered and grown out. Reduced environmental intensity for now and let her focus on dealing with this new stress for a week or two. When H+ ions are added to soil, the first nutrient displaced from exchange sites is typically aluminum (Al3+), if it's present, followed by calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+), and potassium (K+), because aluminum and these base cations have different binding strengths. The order of displacement depends on the lyotropic series, where ions with a higher positive charge and those with weaker binding strengths are displaced first. The specific order of nutrient displacement is determined by the lyotropic series, which ranks the strength with which cations are adsorbed by soil particles: Al3+: Most strongly adsorbed, so if present, it will be displaced by H+ ions, leading to increased solubility of aluminum and potential plant toxicity. Ca2+: Displaced next, as it is more strongly bound than Mg2+ or K+ but less than Al3+. Mg2+ and K+: Displaced after Ca2+. The displaced nutrients can be lost from the root zone through leaching, becoming unavailable to plants. As H+ ions increase, the proportion of acid cations (H+ and Al3+) on the exchange sites increases, while base cations (Ca2+, Mg2+, K+) decrease, resulting in a lower soil pH. The amount of photosynthesis (water splitting) directly determines the availability of H+ ions (protons) in a plant. 90% of water is for cooling of photosynthetic apparatus the other 10% is split for its H+ among others things. Carbon sugars, like glucose, do oxidize in soil through a process primarily driven by microorganisms, which break down these sugars for energy. This oxidation converts the sugars into carbon dioxide (CO2) through cellular respiration, a key part of the soil carbon cycle, though some carbon may also be incorporated into soil organic matter. The rate and extent of sugar oxidation depend on factors like oxygen availability, the presence of Fe oxides, and soil redox conditions, which can all influence the process. My understanding of why we flush. Just plain water, what does it do? Strips the medium of salts and nutrients making it empty. What does that do? Triggers nutrient recycling within the plant. What's nutrient recycling? It is a natural part of plant senescence, which can be triggered once you know the switches. A 24:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio will also trigger. Why won't it trigger autophagy for me? Nitrogen needs to be gone, gone, gone almost. Ammoniacal (organic) nitrogen takes 4-5 times more water to separate it from soil particles than nitrates so what happens is most people jist flush the nitrates, leave all the ammoniacal in there and this prevents autophagy initiating. Nitrogen decays differently depending on its form during the dry. Ammoniacal nitrogen will oxidize in the air, leaving no trace. But nitrates do no decay and turn volatile and smelly and remain trapped until smoked, no matter how long you cure it does not oxidize. This is why you need to trigger it and begin the denitrification process prior to harvest to get rid of all the nitrates. Otherwise, you will smoke it. Flush till autophagy begins, just make sure you add no nitrogen afterwards. Micronutrients for trichomes. Don't leave the medium empty for 2 weeks, that does nothing but reduce yield 10%ish. Trichomes are another thing. Trichomes themselves are not directly affected by flushing; rather, flushing affects the plant's nutrient uptake, which influences the development and final state of the trichomes. Trichomes are filled with antioxidants in the last weeks, which is what makes them cloudy. A lot of the processing of antioxidants requires energy and nutrients (mostly micronutrients ), so you don't want that soil empty for 2 weeks, you just want the carbon nitrogen ratio 24:1and no higher. She still wants what she needs to ripen. Processing antioxidants is energy-intensive; heat and light accelerate the rate at which THC converts to CBN. This is why you lower DLI, lower temps. By doing so, you reduce the oxidative workload caused by photosynthesis, which opens up the oxidative capacity for the production of antioxidants. THC is mostly processed at night when the plant's oxidative capacity is generally moreso "free and available" for work. Oxygen is the alchemist's "fire"

Time is not on my side as my wedding cake in the other tent is becoming a beast and I want the small tent for the rest of the flowering stage of the wedding cake . So being as its week 11 she will be getting chopped at the weekend which will be around day 77. I think its taken such a long time due to her being more sativa inclined. The grow has gone quite well with no deficiencies that i've noticed. The Humidity is also on the high side so thats another reason to get her chopped soon. I have reduced the nutrients down now for this final week and also reduced the light hours to give her the sign to hurry up lol though she finishing i think at her own pace

Germinated for 24 hours in a glass of water, 48 hours in a paper towel and then I planted them into biodegradable seedling pots. Northern Lights looking a bit ahead of the Dosidos seeds but that was expected I’ve grown Northern Lights before and they sprout real quick. One of the Dosidos’ first true leaves is looking a bit wonky but we’ll see how it goes I suppose.

2/4: Photo session day! These are the fastest, most vigorously growing plants in the garden, but also the slowest to flower.😕 I had a total infestation of Cattus (felis) which I documented in my photos. Eradication seems impossible, so I'm opting to allow a degree of predation, but hoping trichome production will, at least, deter them soon.😁 2/5: I fed everybody today with about 3/4 gallon and sprayed them down with Axiom harpin proteins for the last time this run. I made a DIY CO2 generator today using a 5 gallon cat litter bucket, a small aquarium pump, some air line tubing, and a bubble stone, plus 6 cups of sugar and 30 grams of wine yeast in 2 gallons of warm water. I put the tube where the CO2 is exhausted up against the back of the oscillating fan that aims down over the plants so they are being constantly forcefully bombarded with high levels of CO2(1300+ppm) from above. I set the ac infinity controller to allow the temps to climb up to 89f before the fan turns on. 2/6: These girls are taller than anybody else in the garden, and still stretching (unfortunately). Surprisingly, they're also the slowest to pop pistils. They are flowering, but slow as hell for an indica dominant strain. I probably should have left them all in the dark for a full day when I switched to flower to encourage them to flip faster. I bought some Gro-Pro pot risers to elevate the pots so that they will dry out faster..seem pretty effective. 2/7: I foliar fed with big bloom and tiger bloom today. 2/8: I ordered a second 6" AC Infinity fan to connect to my controller, some ducting, and a diffuser which I'll mount to the wall, down near the floor. The fan unit will be in another closet, adjacent to the garden closet, and I'll run ducting up through that closet ceiling into the attic, with a filter on the end to keep bugs and particulates out. For the next 6 weeks or so, it will provide a supply of colder fresh air. I did the math, and it will now only take about 1 minute and 40 seconds to completely exchange the air in the closet. Depending on the outside air temp at the time, it should take anywhere between 8 and 20 minutes for the closet to heat back up to 80f and the fans to kick back on again. This Spring, on days when it's not cooler than 72f, I'll disconnect the duct in the closet and stretch it into that bedroom, clipped to the window unit air conditioner output, cranked down as low as it will go. This Summer, I'm gonna just run a pair of the quantum boards and grow 4 or 5 autos in there, but this should help keep the temps cooler in summer as well, without dedicating an air conditioner to the grow op.🙏 2/9: I foliar fed them with grow big, big bloom, and tiger bloom and checked moisture in their pots. They're due for a good watering tomorrow.

Verslag derde week bloei – Purple Punch De derde week van de bloeifase bij Purple Punch is een cruciale periode waarin de planten een aanzienlijke ontwikkeling doormaken. Hieronder vind je een overzicht van wat je kan verwachten 1. Plantengroei Bloemvorming: De eerste tekenen van echte toppen worden zichtbaar. De bloemkelken beginnen op te zwellen en trichomen ontwikkelen zich. Stretch: De planten zijn nog steeds bezig met hun "stretch"-fase. Dit is vaak het laatste moment waarin ze aanzienlijk in hoogte groeien. Zorg dat de afstand tot de lamp optimaal blijft om verbranding te voorkomen. 2. Verzorging en voeding Voedingsschema: Fosfor- en kaliumrijke voeding (PK-boosters) wordt belangrijker om de bloemontwikkeling te ondersteunen. Blijf stikstof in balans houden; te veel kan de bloei vertragen. pH-waarden: Houd de pH van het voedingswater rond de 6.0 voor optimale opname. Watergift: Regelmatig water geven, maar voorkom overbewatering. 3. Licht en temperatuur Lichtcyclus: Houd de cyclus op 12/12 uur. Controleer dat er geen lichtlekken zijn tijdens de donkere periode. Temperatuur en luchtvochtigheid: Dag: 22-26°C. Nacht: 18-21°C. Luchtvochtigheid: 40-50%. Een te hoge luchtvochtigheid kan schimmelvorming veroorzaken. 4. Controle en monitoring Trichomen: Begin de ontwikkeling van trichomen te monitoren. De toppen zullen meer glinsteren naarmate ze rijpen. Plagen en schimmels: Inspecteer de planten regelmatig op tekenen van plagen, zoals spintmijten of meeldauw. Luchtcirculatie: Zorg voor goede ventilatie om hotspots te vermijden. Resultaten derde week De toppen van Purple Punch zouden nu meer volume moeten krijgen en de kenmerkende fruitige aroma's beginnen zich te ontwikkelen. Dit is het moment waarop de genetische kwaliteiten van de soort echt naar voren komsn

This girl is looking happy & healthy. 😊👍🏼🌿

🔸Davvero una grande notizia! Una nuova collaborazione con @Spiderfarmer è iniziata e sono felice di poter creare dei contenuti per una azienda seria come la loro!!! Questa mattina è stata montata questa bellissima #SF2000 nella tenda da coltivazione più grande dove dovrà lavorare per far fiorire tutte le signorine che passeranno di qui prossimamente 😁😎🔥 Voglio fare i complimenti perché siete riusciti a creare veramente una luce bellissima con materiali super leggeri ed esteticamente geniali ❤️‍🔥oltre che consumare veramente poco (2.7 Umol/J)per il raggio di copertura ( 4x3 in crescita )(4x2 in fioritura ) e intensità uniforme in PPFD Mi piace molto anche il fatto che monta anche diodi IR utili per accelerare la fase di fioritura e aumentare la resa 💡 Ci saranno diversi aggiornamenti rimanete connessi e grazie ancora per essere passati a trovarmi 😃 https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cl_EEAbu_vQ/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= Funzionalità principali 2022 NUOVA VERSIONE COSTI DI ESERCIZIO INFERIORI E RENDIMENTI DI QUALITÀ SUPERIORE: Le luci progressive a LED SPIDER FARMER SF2000 utilizzano la più recente tecnologia LED ad alto rendimento oggi: diodi Samsung LM301B, alta efficienza energetica con 2,7 umol/J, creano la migliore penetrazione della luce del baldacchino. Copertura vegetale 3 x 4 piedi, fiore 2 x 4 piedi. Potenza estremamente elevata ma consuma solo 200 W di elettricità, rendendola più efficiente delle tradizionali lampade HID e di altre lampade per piante sul mercato. NUOVO DISPOSIZIONE DEI DIODI E DESIGN DIMMERANTE: Luci crescenti SF2000 aggiornate. Più perline leggere ai bordi, meno al centro. Aiuta a ottenere una PPFD più uniforme. e la manopola di regolazione della luminosità regola liberamente l'intensità della luce. Connessione multi-luce con regolazione unificata particolarmente vantaggiosa per un'ampia area di coltivazione indoor e piantagione commerciale. IDEALE PER TUTTE LE FASI DI CRESCITA: Eccellente spettro completo: bianco, blu, rosso e IR (3000K, 5000K, 660nm e IR 760nm). Diodi 3000K che forniscono più luce rossastra e 5000K che forniscono più luce bluastra. La luce rossa e IR da 660 nm è particolarmente utile durante la fioritura, dove accelera i tempi di fioritura e aumenta i raccolti. Trasforma i tuoi semi nella tua scorta. E la luce sembra abbastanza naturale, quindi è utile per monitorare accuratamente la salute delle piante. COSTRUZIONE BEN FATTA E SOLIDA: nessuna ventola senza rumore. Il driver ad alta efficienza, affidabile e staccabile ha un'ottima dissipazione del calore. Il dissipatore di calore in alluminio è spesso e robusto, coperture protettive per i cavi; Imballaggio intuitivo. Componenti di qualità significano che la luce dura più a lungo, SF Light si prende cura di te con un design più attento, puoi facilmente risparmiare denaro senza acquistare frequentemente luci. In qualità di produttore professionale di luci di coltivazione a LED da oltre 10 anni. Spider Farmer ha sempre insistito per creare attrezzature per la semina domestica più efficienti, adatte e di alta qualità per la crescita delle piante e si impegna a diventare un partner fidato per ogni coltivatore! Riceverai una lampada da coltivazione Spider Farmer SF2000, un manuale di istruzioni, un paio di ganci d'argento, un paio di ganci neri.

Quite the week, finally got to transplant into a larger container, hopefully the roots open up and explore soon. First round of LST completed as well.

Week 10 for Ztrawberry by Greenhouseseedco, Her colour is getting so much better! Look at that darker green coming in with the new growth. Still needing her to toughen up a bit before we get into flower.

I did a last defoliation on the NL and left the WA flowering! I kept the nutrient as RQS recommends and for now I didn’t not have any problems beside some few yellow marks on some leaves but nothing really noticeable

START OF WEEK 4 FLOWERING. NUTRIENTS SAME 4 ML PER LITER RO WATER OF BOTH A & B. 2 ML PER LITER BIG BUD. MIXED UP 8 LITERS OF NUTRIENT SOLUTION --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Day 64 April 18th - 2019 Both ladies had a little trim to get rid of thick interior. Day 64 April 18th - 2019 Both Jessica Rabbit & Elly May were fed 1.5 liters of nutrient mix. Day 64 April 18th - 2019 Temp in tent is @ 78.4° F. Day 64 April 18th - 2019 Humidity in tent is @ 51%. Day 64 April 18th - 2019 Jessica Rabbits Coco temp is @ 70.2° F. Day 64 April 18th - 2019 Elly Mays Coco temp is @ 70° F. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- NOTE - Day 65 April 19th - 2019 The Lady in the coffee can is a clone from the Blue Cookies. The clone was 2 weeks old put in soil in the coffee can It was put in the tent straight to flower No Veg time at all the clump of leaves at the bottom was how tall it was. I have been feeding Her the same Nutrients I am using for Coco flowering with the Big Bud for Coco. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Day 65 April 19th - 2019 Both Ladies are looking good after their little trim. Day 65 April 19th - 2019 Temp in tent is @ 81.1° F. Day 65 April 19th - 2019 Humidity in tent is @ 55 %. Day 65 April 19th - 2019 Jessica Rabbits Coco temp is @ 71.8° F. Day 65 April 19th - 2019 Elly Mays Coco temp is @ 71.6° F. Day 66 April 20th - 2019 Ladies are looking good coming alone. Day 66 April 20th - 2019 Temp in tent is @ 79° F. Day 66 April 20th - 2019 Humidity in tent is @ 40 %. Day 66 April 20th - 2019 Jessica Rabbits Coco temp is @ 69.3° F. Day 66 April 20th - 2019 Elly Mays Coco temp is @ 69.4° F. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Day 67 April 21st - 2019 Both Ladies received 1 liter pre-mixed solution --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Day 67 April 21st - 2019 The girls are looking fine. Day 67 April 21st - 2019 Temp in tent is @ 79° F. Day 67 April 21st - 2019 Humidity in tent is @ 47 %. Day 67 April 21st - 2019 Jessica Rabbits Coco temp is @ 70° F. Day 67 April 21st - 2019 Elly Mays Coco temp is @ 70° F. Day 68 April 22nd - 2019 Ladies are looking good no issues. Day 68 April 22nd - 2019 Temp in tent is @ 71.2° F. Day 68 April 22nd - 2019 Humidity in tent is @ 57 %. Day 68 April 22nd - 2019 Jessica Rabbits Coco temp is @ 67.6° F. Day 68 April 22nd - 2019 Elly Mays Coco temp is @ 66.6° F. Day 69 April 23rd - 2019 Both Ladies looking good. Day 69 April 23rd - 2019 Temp in tent is @ 69.4° F. Day 69 April 23rd - 2019 Humidity in tent is @ 61 %. Day 69 April 23rd - 2019 Jessica Rabbits Coco temp is @ 65.7° F. Day 69 April 23rd - 2019 Elly Mays Coco temp is @ 64.8° F. Day 70 April 24th - 2019 Both ladies are coming alone. Day 70 April 24th - 2019 Temp in tent is @ 67.1° F. Day 70 April 24th - 2019 Humidity in tent is @ 61 %. Day 70 April 24th - 2019 Jessica Rabbits Coco temp is @ 65.2° F Day 70 April 24th - 2019 Elly Mays Coco temp is @ 64.0° F.

New tops looking great and healthy the second nodes are coming in good also week 7 the black moonflower is next to the small autoflowers

semana de crecimiento de tricomas, ademas las flores presentan un crecimiento muy bueno, ya están madurando de verdad, el próximo cultivo lo documentaré con fotos mas claras, he aprendido mucho de tenerlas en hidroponia, me gusta y lo voy a seguir usando y explotando

Tag 40: Ich gebe zusätzlich Alg a mic in das Gießwasser zur Stressbehandlung. Tag 46: Ich habe mich entschlossen diesen Grow abzubrechen. Seit kurzem werden die Blätter hell und fühlen sich trocken an. Ich vermute es liegt daran das ich einmal ein großen Schluck zu hartes Wasser genommen habe. Ich hatte einmal zuwenig Gießwasser vorbereitet (PH wert eingestellt 6,3) und es lief unten nicht raus so nahm unvorbereitetes (PH wert 7 etwa) Wasser zum Schluss, zunächst wuchs die Pflanze normal weiter, doch nach 1-2 Wochen stagniert das Wachstum die Blätter sind hell und trocken, auch die neuen Triebe sehen nicht gut aus.

Started some LST early in the week for the slightly older plant, then later in the week with the other two. I was going to let them go Christmas tree style, but I can tell already they will out stretch the others. Ended up just bending the top and tying with pant ties. This should promote some busier plants. Still figuring out the Correct Cronk Dosage, it’s pretty strong stuff, just trying to find the balance. Happy Gardening 🇨🇦👊❤️

04.25 F29 So I just posted all of these this week, so Ill give a little more background for documentation’s sake and those curious. Started with 30 beans. Selected down to 19 in veg by vigor and further down to 15 after culling males. The passion berry, deadstar and star pupil are feminized - the rest are regs, so should have some pheno variability. I made a few different types of living soil at the beginning of this grow due to the a availability of different composts. All roughly 1:1:1 base(reclaimed living soil):aeration:compost with appropriate amount of amendments from a coots kit on buildasoil. Composts are my homemade bokashi based quasi-vermicompost, OLY Fish or NaturesLivingSoil concentrate. I use cal mag and Neptune's Harvest fish hydrolysates drenches and foliar in veg to balance deficiencies and top dressed before flower with Organic Maine lobster compost. Just applied my first homebrewed compost tea made with worm castings, OM lobster, NH hydrolysate, kelp meal, and black strap molasses and looking forward to a second half(+) of flower. Most of veg was under COBs, but I upgraded to meiju qb288s for late veg and flower - loving them! 05.01 F36

Day 22, 11th of October 2021: Here we go 1st day of the 4th week. I knew, and as we know Afghani Gold and Spliffs Strawberry are one week younger but they pickin' up quick so soon it can not be seen. Anyways all good yes they grew a lot. CBD Medi Kush is amazing I fimmed a bit by accident of the top "head" no problem at all and again continued with LST. She is a beast. Blue Berry seems to be a bit "pale" let's say light but apart from that she is more than okay. LST is done on her too... Afghani Gold I just love her chunky indica comin' I can see the leaves lol. She received her first LST as well. Spliffs Strawberry is alright as well so I am happy. Actually, not much has changed since last week I just set the lamp back to 125W so approx 40% of the max and the water intake is more a bit so: Lamp is set to be on 125W approx 40% of the full power..... Humidity stays on approx 60% Ventilation switches on in every 2 hours for 5 min.... Watering like 0.08l per day.... Fertilization also with Bat Guano, Biobizz family - BioGrow, BioBloom, TopMax... so these ones 2x a week.... Epsom salt.... 1x a week.... Ratio can be found above. So that's all basically. Happy Growing to you brothers and sisters ❤️